Messages

I'm using 3/8 which is nice on the hand but does have
a bit of friction.  Not a big problem since I'm not
adjusting that much but 5/16 would run smoother.

My traveler came with 3/8" and as Stu mentioned the lines have
swollen and stiffened with age causing quite a bit of friction.  

Time to replace and I'm going to be looking for something a bit
smaller, either 9mm or 5/16.   Time to look at a single braid
I think ... flexible, easy on the hand.  But which one...

One thing you might look into is update to the GX2100, GX2150.... easier to wire
up and a few other improvements. Here's a brief description of update:

"GPS in / DSC out 4800 and 38400 baud rate selections (Allows connection to GPS Chart Plotter with 1 NMEA IN/OUT), selectable True and Magnetic readings for AIS target and PA/FOG simultaneous operation with AIS display, GPS status page."

http://www.navagear.com/2010/12/17/new-standard-horizon-gx2150-vhfaisloudhailer-a-winner-for-sure/

I've seen them online for about $325.

Nice needing only a single VHF antenna (unless you're using an active splitter), simple wiring setup and being
able to keep the VHF on and AIS alert system with same bit hardware reducing power needs. (along with GPS feed)

Ron makes some good points... and as we all know the years do add up.

As I've mentioned before I like Beta Marine's Kubota
conversions better than Westerbeke.  25 & 28 3 cyl models.
http://www.betamarinenc.com/enginemodels.html

Thread on the subject.
http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6033.0.html

I would think a straight run, as long as you're only adding a couple inches to the hose, would have less flow restriction than a 90 especially since the ID of the 90 is less than the ID of the hose. However not sure that it will amount to much either way.  One way to find out.

I've been dealing with flaking paint on every haul.

Apparently what can happen is over the years the paint
gets so thick it puts too much stress on the initial layer and
cracks and peels.  The better the original prep jobs more
stress is can handle but if the paint builds up too thick it's
bound to happen.  Making sure it doesn't build up in
the first place (full/proper sanding) seems wise.

A local high end boat yard suggest saving my money
and just pealing the chips that come off easy and paying
for an extra bit of sanding at each haul and feathering
the transitions.  It's worked so far and but it's not as pretty.
Good thing it's on the bottom of the boat ;)

Every time I'm up close scraping the newly loosened patches (only
takes a couple hours each haul) I think about doing the full peel
but once the paint goes on and I don't look too closely it all
seems fine and certainly sails just as well.

But if you've got a good price for it... and want to get it
out of the way getting a full peel seems like a nice job
to have done.   

Your boat... your wallet ... ;)

Still haven't done it?

That would be me Stu, well kind of...

I've done the short-cut version which is not as good as a full
replacement but far better than not doing anything.

I've removed all the high amperage circuits which were
responsible for the overheating, melting and danger.

First and probably most important (and easiest) I rewired
the output from my alternator removing the long and dangerous
run up and back to the ammeter on the engine panel. I
then replaced that with a volt meter.   It's easy so if you
still have the original ammeter at least do this part.
... actually follow Stu's full recommendation, I'm not an
example that should be followed  ;)  but it is far better
than not doing anything.

Second I did the glow-plug/solenoid improvement which avoids
the second long/hi-amperage run that goes through the
wiring harness and suspect plug.  It also shortened the
time I have to hold the glow plug button quite a bit.

I have since cleaned and inspected the suspect plug and
one of these days I'm going to do the last step and cut
it out and replace it with a terminal strip... the one that has
been sitting in my chart table for the last few years.

Higher on my to-do list is replacing my Tach/Hourmeter.
Just need to find one that matches the alternator for a
reasonable price... anyone have a good/bargain source?

Reading up on fabric softener.  Sounds like it might weaken new
lines but adds strength (through lubrication) to older lines.

Founds a few quotes like this around the web:
"Tests by Smith (1988) indicate that treatment with concentrated fabric softener reduced the strength of a new rope but
Frank (1989) showed that certain ropes treated with dilute softener (per manufacturer's recommendations) were stronger than the same rope without softening, after aging and washing.
Frank reported that the likely mechanism at work explaining these results, is that the fiber lubricants contained in new rope are lost with age, allowing the fibers to cut one another. Fabric softener replaces some of the lubricants. Excess softening leaves the rope effectively wet, with the corresponding loss in strength."

The NewEngland Ropes website says this: http://www.neropes.com/LineCare.aspx
Dirt and salt can cause premature wear. Frequently wash rope and running rigging with fresh water. For a more thorough cleaning, soak your rope in warm water mixed with a mild detergent. Add a small amount of fabric softener to soften the rope. When possible, use a front loading washing machine; wash your rope in a mesh bag or pillowcase to avoid tangling. Rinse thoroughly and hang to dry in indirect sunlight. Note: the washing of new / unused rope should be performed by hand wash only.

Single handing eh?

You might look into first setting up your traveler control lines
so that you can control them from the helm if you don't
already have a clean setup.

My lines come off the traveler and run through a swiveling
cam cleat at the aft end of the cabin top.  Works well for
single handling and can adjust both from pretty much any
where in the cockpit.  Great for dealing with a big puff.
Have the cam cleat swivel is key with my setup.

Boom end sheeting seems like a lot of trouble... I guess you
could mix the two but I would think just keep what you have
on the cabin top  and have a separate system, perhaps one
that you could clip on when single handing.  Not sure the best
attachment point but a folding padeye in the cockpit sole
might work.  Maybe a single ended 5 to 1 ratio with a ratcheting
block and cam cleat... snap shackles at either end for
quick setup?

Another option a few of use here in SF bay have a setup is having
the 2nd end of a double ended mainsheet ending on the traveler
car with ratcheting block & cam cleat.  Works great except the last
few required cranks when going up wind in stronger winds... though
it can stay hand held longer with some help from the vang.

When my dodger is on I just let the sheet run all the way
to the end by the cam cleat and trim  from the cabin top.
When racing the dodger comes off and we can play the
sheet from either end.   Great for gybing the main in any winds
or hand control in light to moderate air... though again when the
winds really picks up we have to use the winch when flattening out
the mainsail going to weather.

My guess is you may bumped the tach wire (connected to the alternator) or splashed some
water where it shouldn't have gone like the wiring harness connector.

You might try (turning off the battery first) cleaning the connectors on your
alternator and checking for corrosion in the wiring harness connector.

John my first thought is that your transmission is fine.
(Your RPM at WOT while moored seems to suggest it's not slipping)

2nd (assuming your test was on flat water, little wind or current)
you've either got a really dirty bottom or it might be time to look
into another prop if you want travel 20%+ faster.

I have a 25XP with about 2k hours.  With a freshly
cleaned bottom I do about 6.3kts at cruise rpm which
is just over 80% of my max rpm underway at WOT.
(I believe I also loose one to two hundred rpm when
in gear vs. neutral at WOT.)

If you're bottoms is a little bit dirty that could explain
a 1/2 kt loss but you're still coming up short.

Good news is that if you don't mind going a bit slow
you hopefully have to spend a dime.  If you want
to get an extra knot a nice folding prop is cheaper
than replacing your transmission and you surely
notice a nice bump while sailing as well.

btw, my old three blade 15x9 came in a few tenths of
a knot slower than my current geared folder and didn't
really do any better in a seaway.

I guess your transmission could be slipping...

I might start with a few tests:  

At wide open throttle, in neutral, what is your tack reading?
At WOT underway (no wind/seaway)  and what is your tack reading?
Should be close to the same... approx 3k.  Typical cruising rpm
is 80%+ of max rpm and if you're prop is sized well, your hull
is clean you should easily get above 6kts.

Do you notice any lost of thrust in high load situations...
such as accelerating with quick starts or reverse?

Assuming no major vibration, a cleanhull, prop looks good and you can get
close to the same RPM in neutral (around 3k) as you can under load but
still your SOG in quiet water isn't getting much above 5kts any where
near WOT you've certainly a problem.

... two things that come to mind are an under
pitched (damage) prop or a slipping transmission.

But I'd start with checking your tack reading and making
sure you're getting proper and accurate rpm under load.  

... give it a try and let us know ...

If I recall the back half of the HX opens up for easy cleaning.
Also it's mounted on the side of the exhaust water jacket
for easy access as well as fewer hoses running around.

From my  previous post: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,4725.0.html

They use the same kubota blocks but are packaged differently than
Westerbeke... a nice improvement from what I've seen.

- very quiet & smooth running.
- heat exchanger built on top of exhaust manifold which
  helps with noise,  significantly less hoses including
  hard piped seawater from pump to exchanger,
  exhaust injection elbow on engine .
- improved air intake. (quiet)
- built in oil pump for changes, easy access to fuel filter
- much better polyvee belt can drive 100amp alternator.
- stop solenoid,  fuel pump, better balanced crank pulley
- 25 & 28 hp 3 cylinder models & 4cyl 35hp models

----

btw, I've never owned one, don't know anyone who works for
Beta M, just looks to me like they did a better job than Westerbeke

That does sound like a good price...

I'll put my plug in for Beta Marine... they have some
nice improvements over the M25Xxx including an
integrated heat exchanger, cast oil pan (both
reduce engine noise),  built-in oil change pump
and a few other nice mods.

Cold weather probably didn't help but there are lots of factors that
could have combined to make this start different from a typical one.
Any idea how strong are your batteries were?  (kept on the charger?)
How long did you press the glow plug for before starting?
How much throttle did you have turned on?

Poor compression, cold engine, not enough glow plug
and slow cranking can inject but not burn the fuel.
When one cylinder does fire it can seem to start up, but not enough
to keep going once the excess fuel burns out of that cylinder. 
Meanwhile while fuel still pumps into the other cylinders. 
Each time you try to start it warms up a bit and has
a better chance to keep going with the next starter bump.

If you saw a lot of smoke coming out once it finally
got underway I wouldn't be too concerned, especially
since it ran fine afterwards.

If this is a consistent problem the "running / not-running"
behavior is very binary with little unburnt fuel (smoke) coming
out of the exhaust then you might have something more
significant going on.

My thinking is that you have nothing to worry about but...
you can always get a compression check,  glow plug test,
injector test, to be sure.  I would start with a battery and
cable check if it happens again.