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How's your fuel problem ?

You can always grind(a fine wheel) off the section that hits the rail a bit at a time will prevent the heat discoloration and or the possibility of snapping it off after the heating process , oh well if it breaks basically you can buy 2 for the original price of one . After you install the new one use just a tad of anti sieze compound on the thread so the R & R will be a snap if you have to ever or the next owner needs to replace or do any maintenance . JAT.
Regards & Good Luck

Have you over filled your tank ? If it had vented out port vent on the stern , i would take a look there and take off/out the port wood and check out the line and the gasket to the fuel sender .
Good Luck !

Felt IS your Friend at least mine for the rattles stairs or cabinet doors .

This may help , it worked for me . Go to your local Advance Auto Parts and pick up a UV detector kit for Diesel comes with a pin point uv light and 1/4 oz of dye pour half in your tank start it up and motor around for a while to aggitate the dye, come back in pressurize this system and turn on your uv light youll be surprised at where your leaks will show up mine came from the case fitting on the Racor filter body (bad o-rings) and it would run down along side the mounting wall on to the bilge hoses and into the bilge, I dont use RED fuel so it made it harder but you still knew you had a leak ,bilge and aroma will let you know you have a leak using either red or jetA fuels Try it out it cost under$30.00 what ya dont use pass it along to someone else who has the same problem.
Good Luck To You !

I'm having issues with my 100nm TacTick everything is good battery, poistion of indicator but......Hull Batt will sound off and will have to reboot (turnoff then on again) Raymarine isnt very helpful for this theysuggest buy a new unit , BTW it is out of warranty , but since ive had it , it's been worth the money .
Thanks Again !

Hello ,

If youve checked all the things that could / may be the problem that Ron mentioned then start checking other issues. I too had this same problem. Had it hauled inspected , removed bolts , etc . Remembered the water was very clear almost well drinkable. Long story short had a leak in the aft cabin is where I started, pulled the steering quadrant cover the tan box with all the screws that is screwed into the aft bulkhead and found my leak when i removed the LAST screw water came squirting out , the P.O. used a 5" long screw and punctued the aft H2O tank . Repaired it and started to check everything else H20 heater , Stbd tank , reefer drain , windows, mast boot seals . Long story again short no more water in the bilge dry clean . hope this helps.
 

Since we dont use the foot pump for the sink(galley) bought a small trash can ,took the rubber foot off pressed the can against it cut a hole from the mark and replaced the foot and it doesmt slide around or forgotten after we leave, used a regular grocery bag seems to have worked and the Her Highness likes it there . Got the can at Family Dollar $3.00. JAT

Ours is a 16k Mermaid located under the V-ee berth with a louvered intake under the main drawer exhaust starboard side with asplitter 2''
skeet (aircraft corrugated hose) running to the rear berth that has a rotating vent , the V-ee berth has a similar set up not to hard of an
installation and its own main breaker on the master panel . Hope this helps . Dont forget to use zinc chromate on your drip pan for condensation considerations. If you need a Mermaid condensation venturi set up let me know,  condensation doesnt drain into your bilge let me know I have an extra.

Good Luck !

Replaced both port and starboard fixed windows(nav. station head port & galley salon stbd) with DOW 795 and the 3-M section tape as per the installation drawings, right butyl is great stuff but you really need holding strenght and a great seal and flexibility for these applications using butyl usually has a mechanical expansion factor,  bolts, washers, screws, backing plates where the fixed windows dont , even tho mine ('88 std rig # 552) had screws that i tossed didnt want the stress cracks to appear later , even tho the windows are distortion free no waves or hi- low spots after the job was completed im pretty satisfied with the results much less of a stress factor than installing a LearJet cock pit window .

Good Luck !!     

       Very Nice !!!

I had the same problem , if  you can bend aluminium to the shape you need and weld the corners pop the holes you need and alodine and zinc chromate the inside that'll be one less worry for you and  or the next owner if you decide to sell her.  J.A.T.

I would recommend the aircraft recessed washer instead of the button type much cleaner install, i think you'd be pleased #6 screws and washer and if you dont have a pattern ill send you pictures w/ install pattern that i used . I also used Tuf Shield appx. 4 bas sealer and 8 top coat sprayed after it was all stripped with a heat gun (low heat)and and a cabinet scrapers steel and a little time J.A.T.     

Stu
thanks for the info. i think ill stay with what i have ,but go with the NER Rope you mentioned .
Thanks Again

Hello,

A couple of questions getting away from 7/16" jib/headsail sheet to go with a 1/2" sheet used on a Lewmar 46 series , which / what kind is the most commonly used and lenght.One more question useing a Racor 24 series fuel filter set and would like to up grade to the Racor Turbine any suggestions on either questions ?

Any Help Would Be Greatley Appreciated.
Regards,
Kevin