Messages

Phil,

I just came across this posting while I was looking for something else...

I don't understand how your ladder extension fits and works. Could you post a couple of pictures of the extension in place (stowed) and when deployed? Perhaps when deployed it is under water, if so, semi deployed would help. Great looking extension!

Thanks.

One question I would have is whether you are able to achieve your engine's rated max RPM or close to it. If not, you are perhaps over-pitched already. If you are, then you proceed at looking at other parameters...I have a M25 and don't remember the rated max rpm for the 35.

Rick,

Let us know if you are able to remove your Shaft coupling using any of the above suggested methods. In my case (during the re-power from A4 to an M25) the coupling (on the shaft) was pretty rusted and would not budge. Since I had the A4 out I had space to work and I cut the coupling off the shaft. I had a SS shaft and I was able to save it and reuse the same shaft. If needed I can post some pictures of my 'project TX shaft Coupling' and more information surrounding it. I used a Makita reciprocating saw and went through 5 of the Sawz'all blades (the Chinese blades would not even scratch the steel!). Cheers.

Stu,

I have been reading this post with interest. I am glad that when I re-powered, I decided to discard the old panel and install the gauges on the EP162 NavPod and fitted it on the pedestal. I really like how it turned out. The panel is out of the way but still accessible behind the wheel. I will try and include a picture if I can find it.

I got the marine primary wire from www.genuinedealz.com and wired the control panel from a scratch. I also moved the SS pipe that takes the wires down through the deck to the engine forward and differently than the standard Catalina install.

Just thought I would post this for information...

Good post Ed. This is exactly the reason for my question(s) on the substrate to Steve. Could you post details of the gelcoat product used? How difficult was it to match colors? How much product did you need for the specific area you covered? Thanks.

Maine Sail,

I would think that if someone has their nyloc lock-nut melt on an alternator or near the engine somewhere, they have some other issues to contend with. If things are getting hot enough for the nyloc to melt, we have bigger issues... Wouldn't you agree? Having said that, I too use lock washers on most everything around the engine, but then, I guess I am old fashioned and conservative.

Guys : On a related item for the alternator, you should consider using a self locking nut on the output stud rather than a nut and lock washer.  A thought

Ron,

I love nylocs but ever since having melted the "loc" part of one, and subsequently had the nut get loose, I stopped using them on items that can get hot. I still use lock washers on alt outputs and have never had one come loose. I doubt an alt post would get that hot but just a thought...

Steve,

Thanks. You mean Interlux Interdeck, correct? How many qts did you need for the deck? Do you still see the pattern of the original non-skid? Or is that gone completely? This thing contains a fine substrate. How fine is it? Next time you are on the boat could you take a close up picture in daylight and post it?

I have a similar situation as yours and have been toying with the idea of non-skid repair. Either paint or repair with a pattern. The later is by using the non-skid from Masepoxies and is very labor intensive.

Steve,

What is this 'new non-skid' that they are suggesting? Do post the info and your learning from the project. Thanks.

If you can, some before and after pictures would be great...

In terms of diagnostics I would recommend sampling the oil and sending it for analysis. You'd be surprised how much information can be had from the Oil Analysis. When I acquired my used M25 I sent the oil for analysis and then flushed the TX couple of times and sent it for testing after a couple of weeks of testing and running in the garage. From the results I observed that the PO may not have changed the Tx oil for a long time (not surprising).

Personally I am going to periodically have the oil for both the engine and Tx tested

Hi Jerry,

I'd be interested if you have an Asymetrical spinnaker. Please pm me with details.

Thanks.

Glad to hear your problem got sorted out Rick.

Cheers.

And...here is the second picture. Had to break the post in two to post the second image...

Rick,

When I had the engine in my garage, it was much easier to replace the oil from the Tx...

However, with the engine fitted on the boat, there is little space below the Tx to easily get the bolt out let alone putting a container below the Tx to drain it. I knew this would happen so I flushed the Tx very well before installing the engine.

Now that the engine is in place I use the 'Fluid Quart Pump' I purchased at Kragen or Napa. See pics below. The pump was quite cheap and can be used for other things too.

1. I assemble the pump as shown in the 2nd pic
2. Remove the Tx dipstick from the top of the Tx.
3. Insert the straight-tube-end of the pump in the Tx, Place the other end with the flexible tube in a container (could be a empty qt. container of Oil or a measuring container)
4. Pump the oil out into the receiving container. This will also allow for measurement of how much oil needs to go back.
5. Pour new oil in Tx and install the dipstick and you are done. Note: The tightening torque spec for the dipstick nut on Tx is 22Nm or 16 Ft.Lbs.

Hope that helps. Cheers.

Mark,

Yes, as far as I know the rubber o-ring type washer goes on after the end cap and the Hx gasket goes on after that.

Here is an interesting thing I observed on my HE while changing the zinc. I found that the end of the new zinc was touching the side of the tubes inside the HE. Effectively in the last few threads that was kinking the shaft of the zinc, and hence the bolt holding the zinc, sideways. This resulted in water drops coming out of the bolt/zinc. I had found this out by using a cylindrical rod and checking the depth accurately (this is what Ron is suggesting by using a pencil) I used a normal file and filed the zinc at the tip just like a pencil sharpener does, only a steeper angle. Once that was done the zinc did not touch the inside of the HE and there was no leak!

Just thought I would share. Note that all this was easy for me to do since my engine was in my garage on a wooden frame with wheels I built for it...