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I have never used zinc spray on bronze. Might work, but Interlux Interprotect 20000 epoxy is my go to.

  Bernd— YES! Sorry for confusion. My strut is primed with epoxy and painted with bottom paint. While it is metal, I consider it part of the hull not "running gear".

If you don't use a diver, I have anecdotally heard that Prop Speed and similar (expensive) coatings help significantly curtail growth. Following exact application instructions is mandatory to get good results..

In San Diego I just clean and polish shaft and prop at haulout. No painting. Of course I have a diver monthly.

I like Alex's idea of bringing Formica to paint store. Perhaps remove one of your galley sliding door panels of fridge lid?

One company's "Antique White" is another's "Off White". Paint color names vary by brands. I would recommend going to a paint store or big box store and grab some chip samples and bring them to your boat's Formica to get a somewhat close match. The actual paint may very from the sample but you will be closer using that approach instead just relying on a color name.

 
I agree Jim, but then I hit my head on my split backstay! But that's another issue... ;-)

Yeah, thx for the tip on the pads, but I have enough tripping hazards already! Mostly, I steer from the "Princess" seats. I like the wind in my face!  Only time it is an issue is in crowded/congested harbors or when docking.

STU- I probably should have better factored height into my calculus when buying my current dodger—built to fit my old existing frame. I failed to acknowledge that I had personally shrunk at least an inch over the past 9-years! Now, when standing at the helm, I either scrunch down to look through it or stand on my toes to look over it. ;-)

 
I (and Mainesail) recommend Makrolon AR-2 (a polycarbonate) over any vinyl, including Stratoglas. It offers much better clarity and I think, durability. I use it on my dodger. The two "downsides" are it is more expensive and you cannot roll it up. The front panel of my dodger zips up for ventilation and folds back onto the top of the dodger and is held in place by a standard SS twist lock canvas fastener. Regardless, whether you use vinyl/Stratoglas or polycarbonate, use Sunbrella sun covers over the windows when not sailing to prolong their life.
UPDATE/Edit: just found my old estimate and the material I have is:
60 gauge Lexan MR-10 Polycarbonate window

It depends where your instrument is mounted, but I would try and figure out a way to temporarily attach a piece plywood to use as a hole saw template/guide for hole saw's pilot bit, or you may have problems with your hole saw "walking" and not centering.

Single-handing solves the problem. ; )

Eric— there may be glass under the fairing compound but I never had to grind or dig that far. I have only a had to repair a bit of cracked fairing putty over the past 9 years. The boat only gets hauled every three years for a bottom job here in SoCal. It will be time again this October. I will see how it looks.

  No glass on my 1990 joint. Just faring.

Try a product called Debond Marine Formula Adhesive & Sealant Remover. West Marine carries it. It is expensive but it works. Spray it on and let it sit for 15 min. or so. It should help release the hatch's bond to the deck.