Messages

thank you.  I will be doing the water system in the water, the engine, the yard is doing.  i forgot how long it takes to drain both of our water bladders so it didn't happen yesterday.  I didn't want to burn out the pump!  thanks for the advice, everyone.  i still haven't decided about the cushions.  it would be a PIA to get them down the ladder, in the winter but also, i'd hope this cover keeps the most dry and i can open the windows like other people have said. i have almost 6 gallons of pink to use (some from last year) so i won't be frugal! WM had it for $3.00

Just another opinion on your cushions based on 25 years and 3 boats in Boston. Even though it is ideal to remove anything that can absorb moisture, it's often just not practical. Whether you use shrink wrap or a canvas cover also is somewhat of a factor. A canvas cover will minimize the greenhouse effect and allow relative humidity to be managed easier. However, with SW creating a chimney effect and installing vents in the SW can keep the interior dry.
We live in a Condo and now have innerspring mattresses, so we use a hybrid approach. We remove all of the smaller cushions (and all paper products, gear etc), but leave the bigger cushions and mattresses on board. We use a product called Hypervent under the mattresses year round and this effectively provides ventilation under the mattresses. We cover the mattresses with fleece blankets (won't absorb moisture like cotton) mostly for dust/dirt prevention and instead of propping the cushions up, I've found those cheap 'Frost King' pipe insulation noodles are great for putting under the cushions to provide air flow. I open up all drawers/cupboards/ access hatches and place a few noodles under any remaining cushions to provide airflow. I also make sure my bilge is bone dry (including removing antifreeze after winterizing). Leave an overhead and port hatch cracked open to provide equilibrium and interior is bone dry through the winter. The most difficult times are Fall and Spring when the temps tend to vary wildly. I've used a canvas cover for the last 4 seasons, and this also has made a big difference in managing condensation. Hope this helps and in the end you have to do what makes you most comfortable...

Hi Roger,
FWIW, after my 2nd season with the new boat I found a bit of play in my CB also. Although I do a realignment check every spring, I suspected that the Dealer didn't align properly and created some wear. Being a bit OCD, I decided to do what you did--I removed the old CB then ordered a Johnson Duramax. Found the same amount of play, so I called them and talked with an engineer. They provided the same info you posted: OD Tolerance is +/- .001, .002 Interferernce, .003-.008 ID tolerance. They also said there is tolerance for a water film. Since this didn't match my experience or what most will say about CB ID fit, I set about calling Morse (the other major manufacturer and the vendor Catalina uses) and ordering one of theirs. Same tolerances and same conversation. I then called the following: Buck Algonquin and Spartan in Maine. Finally I talked with Gerry Douglas. After all this, I installed the new Bearing and after a season found no play even though when I first installed it seemed to have the same play as the old one which based on my caliper readings were within spec of both CB vendors. Part of the reason for all my additional research and concern is because my shaft is fed through a Fiberglass skeg, not a strut and it is NOT press fit--this goes against all conventional wisdom. However after speaking with all of the above and in particular Gerry I had no choice but to trust that the slip fit plus set screws is by design. I have indeed found this to be the case. Sorry to provide all the extra info., but if your shaft is true and not scored where the Cutless should go, you should be fine per the CB engineers. Good luck and I apologize in advance if I confused the situation.

I am currently working on setting up our new DC electrical system to the point where we can launch this year. Of our previous 4Ds one died last season and we were not happy with them being set up as separate banks. In the end we really just used them as one bank(until the one of them died).

So this season we have replaced them with four Interstate 6 volts, which even ends up giving us more total amps than we had before. At the moment I'm just focusing on getting bank #1 set up, so that we can power the engine and get to our slip.In my wiring work I have some questions:

1) I'm adding both a positive and negative bus bar, instead of having everything wired direct to the batteries as it was. The bus bar comes with a nut and lock washer. The lock washer is just small enough in diameter that is slips partly into the hole of the cable lug. I'm thinking that I should be putting a washer in between the lock washer and the lug, so that the lock wash lies flat, but what sort of washer (is stainless OK, is there such a thing as copper or tinned washers)?

2) The charger (Professional Mariner Flyback 20-3 Alltech Series) has the #2 and #3 DC out terminals joined together. If I am currently going to have only one bank (until I get the spare one worked out), should I be joining #1, #2 and #3, so that all are set as a single DC source? [I assume this is the much maligned charger discussed elsewhere in the forum, but for now it seems to work and it'll get me into the water.]

3) In reviewing my existing wiring I noticed that the windlass positive was not hooked up to the common, but only to battery #2 on the 1-2-Both-Off switch! The owner's manual shows it as being on the common. I'm planning on putting it on the common as per the manual. Any reason why it was setup the other way?

4) From what I can tell our alternator is going to the starter instead of the batteries. My problem is that I can't even see the starter from the aft cabin or from the top and forward access areas. So disconnecting it from the starter is going to be problematic for me. I'd like to have the alternator charge the main bank directly. That said, is it as simple as taking the red line and feeding it to the positive bus bar for the main bank?

Much thanks, Fred.

Hi Fred,
One of the first things I did when taking delivery of my new boat was rewire. I had the same issue with access to the Starter. After consulting with Maine Sail, I did not remove that wire, but used Rescue Tape to isolate the lug (MS suggested Heat Shrink tubing, but I wanted to be able to have the option of using it should the need ever arise), then cable tied the wire along the Battery cables that also attach to the Starter. Finally I labeled the wire so someone other than me will not what it is.
Hope this helps...
Jon Vez
Solstice 355 #17

OK, if I understand correctly, you fabricate a mesh screen that is about 24"x 25" or so.
You use some type of weighted material around the edge and rest it in the sill around the outside edge of the hatch.
You can then close the hatch from the inside with the screen in place by opening just enough to tighten the dogs down .

Hi Andrew,
If you want to go with the weight, it has to be like a big bag over the open hatch.  It has to fit over when the hatch is fully open.
See this.
http://www.westmarine.com/west-marine--bugbusters-hatch-companionway-screens--P024_720_003_501

The set-up I talk about, is that the velcro is glued on the ceiling around the opening of the hatch, and the screen just fit the velcro dimension and is flat.
Sorry but I dont have a picture.

If anyone is interested in a 'bugbuster', I have one that I know longer use as my boat came with factory installed screens. Please contact me offline if interested...

As Stu mentioned, I posted this information for C355 skippers. For those who may wonder if this is an important consideration, the reason it became a topic on the C355 Google forum is because a 2 year old C355 experienced an arcing situation on his boat at the shore power inlet! I typically share Maine Sails new 'How To's' with the group and the skipper saw his Smart Plug article and promptly replaced. Once again a big thanks to Mainsail for helping make our boats safe!

I just spoke with Rolls yesterday. Those 4CT 6V's are 9.92" tall, which would work for me. They are expensive at $320 (per 6V~$640/12V). Maine, wondering if you know of any FLA 'shorties' that would be similar in size to the Lifelines? Although my batteries are still fine, when I replace I would like to do away with the 4D's and even though I've got a good handle on managing AGM's, I may stick with FLA if I can find a 6V 'shortie'...

Steve,
We had the same concerns--wanted to keep those expensive mattresses protected. We ended up purchasing custom water proof mattress pads. They look and feel like typical mattress pads that you would use at home. They were expensive, but to me a worthwhile investment in protecting the very expensive mattresses they are protecting.
We used a company that makes custom marine mattresses. I see you are up in Maine and if you like I can provide you with a contact to see if they cover your area. If not, you may want to contact a local mattress vendor as measuring is important. In the winter we remove these and cover the mattresses with 'boat show' mattress covers (came with the boat).
Hope this helps...

[33.5.6All individual components of the fuel system, as installed in the boat, shall be capable of withstanding a 2-1/2 minute exposure to free burning fuel (N-Heptane), or No. 2 diesel fuel without leakage, when tested in accordance with Title 33 CFR, Section 183.590, Fire Test.]

ABYC H-33

33.5.6

All individual components of the fuel system, as installed in the boat, shall be capable of withstanding a 2-1/2 minute exposure to free burning fuel (N-Heptane), or No. 2 diesel fuel without leakage, when tested in accordance with Title 33 CFR, Section 183.590, Fire Test.

The only filter in the Racor 500 line that meets the ABYC/CFR standard is the 500MAM which is a full metal bowl filter. If you have a USCG inspected vessel you are and will be required to have the MAM version. We just went though this with the re-certs on our yacht clubs launches. The 500MA, which each launch used, was simply not acceptable to the USCG inspectors. We were also not allowed to "retrofit" a metal bowl to a 500MA the USCG / CFR requirements are that teh filter be "factory made" / tested.....

The 500MA has a heat shield bowl and meets the UL burn requirements.

The 500FG has no heat shield and meets neither UL or ABYC/CFR.


If you want to install a 500FG or 500MA the easiest bet is to technically install it "outside" the engine bay. Surveyors are pretty loose with what constitutes an engine bay....

I see very, very, very few boats or builders who use the 500MAM. Lots use the 500MA and none install the 500FG's any longer... I use the MA filter on our boat because I want to see the fuel and the heat shield certainly helps it meet UL level standards. The ABYC/CFR standards are a few hundred degrees hotter that the UL requirement.....

FWIW, Catalina now uses the MAM UL metal bowl Racors out of the factory and places them outside of the engine space in a dedicated locker. Given the filter is not in the engine space and I want to be able to inspect the fuel visually, I replaced with a clear bowl and will reinstall the metal bowl if an insurance survey ever requires it. Unfortunately they are not 500 series, but the 200 series spin on versions. I assume Catalina is now installing the MAM versions for ABYC and Ocean ratings??

I had to track down a matching panel of the Catalina blue fabric for my 320 a few years ago and went to all the usual places. I ended up contacting JSI who makes all the interior/exterior canvas and cushions for Catalina. They helped me find the original manufacturer who confirmed they no longer made the pattern. However, JSI had a Catalina that was doing a re-fabric job and they removed and sold me what I needed. You may want to give them a call and see if they can help, but I got lucky....good luck...

+1 for Genuinedealz.

Just finished a major rewiring project (on a new boat  ). In addition to pricing (and free shipping), they offer a better quality product. Learned from Maine Sail that Ancor isn't the best choice and why the usual places like WM, Defender and even Hamilton only stock it. When I saw the difference in the quality of battery lugs for example, it was simply incredible. Places like GD stock wiring from Berkshire and a couple of other sources that Maine Sail maintains is superior to Ancor.
Take a quick look at MS's 'How To' for wiring and making battery terminal articles on the difference in quality wiring on his Compass Marine website.

As an anecdote, I had ordered some fire retardant loom for my Alt wiring connections and there was some confusion on diameter. I got a call on a Saturday morning to make sure it was correct and an offer to send me what I needed at no charge! A big fan.
If you don't need something in an hour (WM's primary value), it's worth talking with them (a real human who knows marine wiring)....

Good luck...

Bob, at the risk of both repeating myself and correcting an issue, gels charge at LOWER voltages than wet cells.  Please, check out the link I suggested.

Of course Stu is correct, the charging profile is lower for a gel. Should have previewed before posting 

Hi,


Last thing yesterday , just before leaving the marine and going north for a week. I found out that my two Gel batteries were shot.  So to save not going, I went down and purchased two of the same size AGM batteries.

In see from some other post that wet cell was the way to go.

Anyway, the battery charger has two setting, flooded or Gel.  I have received conflicting advice on which setting to use.  One post said I should get a different battery charger with an AGM setting.  That can't happen until at least middle on next week.

Advice welcome,
Thanks,
Bob

Bob,
You definitely want to set it for Flooded until you sort out a long term solution. The Gel setting has a much higher charge rate than either wet or AGM's...good luck and enjoy your cruise....

I am a new owner of a 1987 Catalina 34 and new member here.  My boat has and Autoprop that is vibrating, and my max rpm at WOT is 2000 rpm.  I think this is rpm is too low and the engine is working too hard.

I am looking for a replacement prop, but I am on a budget after just paying for the boat. Can anyone recommend a replacement prop?
I would prefer a used one to keep my cost down.

Thanks,
Marc

Hi Marc,
I had an Autoprop on my 320 for 12 years and it is a great prop (and very expensive), so before you swap it out there are a couple of things that are unique to this prop and are worth checking. Make sure the blades are clean as previously mentioned. One blade will always hang down while at rest, and if you haven't used the boat in a while, it tends to get growth and will definitely cause vibration. Not sure what the WOT is for your engine, but you should be able to get within a couple hundred RPM's. Although pitch does not come into play since the prop is self pitching, blade size does. Can you find out if the PO was able to get to WOT?
The other common item to check is that the bearings for each blade are not loose. These bearings need to be serviced/replaced every 5-6 years or so. This is the only maintenance required, although some models have a grease nipple that needs an annual regrease. You can check with Steve Armitage at AB marine--he is the US Distributor for Autoprop and should have pertinent info recorded for your specific boat.
I know there is prop religion out there, but if an AP would fit on my current boat I would put one back on without hesitation! Good luck and let me know if you have additional questions...and congrats on your new boat!!

Farzad,

I have owned my 355 for two seasons now. We bought this boat to replace our 320 with the idea of living/cruising the coast of New England for the summer. It is only the two of us and when we were boat shopping, we had the following criteria: We actually wanted the *smallest* boat we could find that had an island berth, separate shower and adequate tankage--sailing capability needed to be a given. We were in no hurry to buy a boat, but when we saw the 355 it ticked all of our boxes and turned out to be just what we were looking for. An added bonus for us was that it was a Catalina.

The '5 Series' boats have a higher price point than previous models, but if you look at some of the innovations in these boats (chainplate implementation, watertight bulkhead or 'Strike zone' aft of the anchor locker, mast compression post etc) along with some additional fit and finish characteristics we felt it was worth the premium. Some may feel these are marketing gimicks, but I've been messing about with boats for 25 years and see these as value add items. The other great feature was tankage--27g holding tank (monitor comes standard), 101g water--very important and 30g fuel all make staying on the boat for longer periods. And she sails amazingly well. We have a couple of owners who race competitively and do very well. Don't forget that like all Catalinas, you can turn the salon area into a huge berth by dropping the table and using the supplied cushion insert. I could go on, but if you have specific questions, feel free to contact me and I will be happy to answer any questions you may have.

Regards,
Jon Vez
Solstice #17

Thought I would add an FYI to this--Catalina is not putting inspection ports in their new boats' water tanks. I had them on my 320 and would occassionally use them for clean out. Always had to make sure they were not leaking because as you fill the tanks, air doesn't vent as fast as the water coming in and tends to create a bulge...so I'm glad I don't have that to deal with.

Now my dilemma is how to do the annual sanitization process (using Peggie's recipe) without burning out my water pump