Messages

Free,
It is a good idea to run your engine at cruising temperature every time you take her out. Diesel engines like to be run, and you need to burn off the internal condensation and burn your fuel cleaner. I always run my engine at least twenty minutes at cruising speed every time I go out. I make it a point to do this. In Long Beach for me that means running hard out the jetty and then out to the breakwall (about 2 miles). This is good for the engine, and it helps me use up my fuel. Even being diligent about this, I still only use about 15 gallons a year. I sail almost every weekend, and I still have a hard time using up the fuel in the tank. You don't want old fuel, and you don't want condensation in your fuel tank. So I try hard to use up the fuel in the tank so that I can keep replenishing it. Just a thought....

A few years ago I repitched my prop from 9" to 10

The aft cabin ports with the plastic frame are Beckson. The aluminum ports in the cabin are Lewmar.

I would first check all clamps on the fuel lines to make sure that they are tight. Also, as Stu said, inspect all fuel lines for leaks/air intrusion. Check fuel pump screen, and the tightness of the secondary fuel filter (mounted on engine) to make sure it is tight. Then, start your engine and open the knurly knob to bleed your fuel system. Tighten the knurly know and go for a motor and see what happens.  Perhaps another idea would be to take your boat out and when these symptoms occur, open the knurly knob to bleed out any air and see if the engine performance returns to normal. That may indicate air in the system. You may again change your fuel filters too just in case. Is your fuel tank full?

I once crewed on a boat that had a slow air intrusion in the fuel system. The boat would motor fine for a while and then lose power. We would bleed the system under way, and this would correct the problem for a while. Then air intrusion would occur again. Hope this helps...

I have always had to cut my pencil zincs to the length of 1 inch above the threads, otherwise they seem to hit something in the HX. Consequently, I usually purchase four to six zincs at a time, and cut them all at home so when I need to change my zincs, they are pre-cut and ready to go. I also use the thin zincs, not the fat ones, and I change them every 4th month. This way there is still enough remaining to remove them and re-use the plug. The plug is re-useable, so there is no need to purchase a new plug every time you change the zinc. Also, keep in mind that since the threading is a pipe fitting, the plug will not screw in all the way. Once it is snug, it is tight enough. You can tell when you have it tight, and then stop. Do not over tighten it..... there will always be thread showing from the plug. This is normal.

A friend of mine had his boat shipped to the east cost of Florida, and while living aboard, he experienced a lot of noises on his hull at night. He was told by the locals that there is a fish ( a mullet?) that hunts at night and traps it prey against the hull of boats, so it is normal to hear whapping against the hull at night. Perhaps this is the same phenomenon.

I have my Hood 915D continuous furling line on my starboard side. I believe that counter clockwise rolls the sail in. In my case this is the lower line on my double block nearest the cockpit. I too had white UV when I bought my boat 8 years ago. I changed my UV protectant to Navy Sunbrella about 6 years ago. It takes the guess work out. All the other advice is good. Look at your sail closely, and you will be able to tell, then determine which way (counter clockwise or clockwise) rolls the sail in the correct direction.

I just replaced my cowl's, which are simply wind scoops and simple to replace. All of the mechanisms are inside the dorade box. 

Mine were never frozen, but they were really weathered and discolored. So I replaced them with new cowl vents from Vetus. I chose the "Tom" model. Another C-34 that I know, installed the stainless steel ones. Some others have removed them all together. It is simply your preference. I myself, have not seen any other alternatives. It is however, your personal choice.

Can you provide a picture of what you are describing? I am not sure what you are referring to. I have a 1987 C-34 and I believe that the mainsheet traveler was supplied by Garhauer Marine. Garhauer  does have mainsheet traveler upgrade hardware, so they are an excellent starting point, but even for them, a picture will be really helpful to see what you have and what is in need of repair.

That's a good reminder to Cetol or Varnish the back of the teak as well to protect it. I did four coats of varnish on the back side of my trim pieces.

Sue,
There are a few approaches to this issue depending on your preference and weather issues. I live in Southern California and it does not rain here much, or snow. But on pieces of teak that I will remove from time to time to varnish, I use rubber "O" rings around the screw instead of using sealant. The rubber "O" ring makes a seal around the screw hole on the aft lazarette. I did the same, using "O" rings on the teak on my sliding cabin hatch as well. I also have a dodger to protect this area. I learned this approach from another C-34 owner on my gangway and this seems to work fine for me as well. This way when I remove these pieces to re-varnish, I do not have to deal with any clean-up of any sealants. You could also put a small bead of sealant (or butyl) just along the top of the piece of wood. This should keep the rain out if that is a concern. Either way, if it were me, I would only deal with the area's where the screws attach to the wood.

Mark,.
I think that your heat exchanger has deteriorated to the point where salt water is infiltrating into your coolant system. I had a C-34 dock neighbor, who has a 1988 model, where this happed to him recently as well. His issue was a deteriorated heat exchanger. In his case, I believe that this was caused by not using zincs in his engine and the consequence was that his heat exchanger deteriorated, although that heat exchanger was 25 years old (could have been that as well). Also,  his thermostat was filled with crud, so it might be a good idea to inspect your thermostat as well. In my opinion, you should buy a new heat exchanger, install it, and you should be good to go.

I threw mine out so long ago, I can't even remember. Toss it and don't look back!

I had a cover over my teak step, and I didn't even notice the "blank plate" there.... Here is a pic I found and mine looks blank too! I'll have to check it out next time I'm at the boat to see if there is any information on it or if it is gone too!

Kent,
I have an M25XP and all I would say is I would not over fill it. Second, when I change my oil I get out about 3 quarts, more or less. I don't know how many quarts of oil the M35 takes, but you will never get it all out, so get out as much as you can, change the filter and then, as you say, don't worry about it. Just change your oil once a year and then "go sailing."