Messages

I'll leave the drain hose as is, add the strainer and maybe a new check valve.

Hi Ron, I changed to the SST idler pins yesterday.

Other things I've done since taking ownership of my 1987 MK 1 boat mid-April:
1. had the exhaust riser redone.
2. transmission fluid changed. PO had done the engine oil just before I purchased from him.
3. removed lots of extra fittings on the raw water pump to just what was needed.
4. verified the traveler through bolt upgrade has been done (I have 4 showing inside the cabin).
5. verified the alternator bracket upgrade has been done.
6. checked the hot water hoses from the engine under the galley floor. All appear relatively new.
7. replaced all thru hulls and ball valves with new Marelon flanged seacocks attached to marine grade backing plates epoxied to hull.
8. replaced all above waterline thru hulls due to UV damage on many of existing
9. replaced pedro hose
10. When extracting the prop to change the pedro hose, found the original shaft had past damage and repair with epoxy! Amazing.
11. Because of that got a new SST prop shaft.
12. then found the aluminum emergency tiller cap was broken. replaced with new SST one.
13. why stop now, so replaced cutlass bearing, and drivetrain re-aligned to spec.
14. cleaned packing gland to like new and repacked with Goretex(?) recommended on this site. Brilliant stuff, drips only when running.
15. replaced seizing wire on the starboard spreader.
16. removed AC wiring that was passing through the battery box. Yup, AC wires in the battery box. Both nicely discolored.
17. sailing in San Diego Bay. A great sailing boat.

Up next:
1. engine harness with Kit A arrived yesterday.
2. replace all water system supply and drain hoses. Many are yellow and sticky, probably original.
3. check if fuel filter is or isn't in the fuel tank.
4. ordered new gooseneck to upgrade, but still not received from CAT Direct.
5. re-bed stantions and chainplates. Bed-It butyl tape arrived yesterday.
6. more sailing.

The reason I listed all the above, is because if it wasn't for you, Stu, Mainsail, and others on this great site, I wouldn't have known what to look for when buying, nor what to plan for after purchase. Thanks to all for the advice, highlighting key items, and the overwhelming number of searchable write-ups of how to's and how not to's. I'll keep reading. Hopefully someday I can contribute to repay for what I've been getting.  Jon W.

Planning to replace all the water system hoses in Della Jean. I read the May 2001 Tech Notes article about cutting an opening in the sub-floor out side of the head door to gain access to the hose connection under the shower floor.

Has anyone cut a hole in the actual shower floor to get access to the drain connection instead, then used an 8 1/2" or 10 1/2 " diameter beckson plate to seal the hole? Appreciate the input.   Jon W.

[Average torque load to loosen nut:]

I haven't tried the "Home Brew" yet, but thought I would pass on what a friend recently showed me.

The following is a retyping of the article -

"Machinist's Workshop" recently published information on various penetrating oils. The magazine reports they tested these products for "break out torque" on rusted nuts and bolts. A subjective test was made of popular penetrating oils, with the unit of merit being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" bolt.

Average torque load to loosen nut:

No oil used ....................... 516 foot pounds
WD-40 ............................. 238 foot pounds
PB Blaster ........................ 214 foot pounds
Liquid Wrench ................... 127 foot pounds
Kano Kroil ........................ 106 foot pounds
ATF/Acetone mix ...............   53 foot pounds

The ATF/Acetone mix is a "home brew" mix of 50/50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note this "home brew" released bolts better than any commercial product in this one particular test. You can also use ATF and lacquer thinner in a 50/50 mix. ATF can be any type of Automatic Transmission Fluid.

I've ordered the SST idler pulley pins to replace the original brass pins. I'm going to wait on the chain and wire until I can have a better look at its condition.   Jon W.

I've completed some major upgrades, and am now in phase 2 of repairs and upgrades on my new to me 1987 C34. I've checked and found that I have the brass idler pulley pins still in the steering system. Today I called Edson about ordering the SST idler pulley pins, and he mentioned that it is recommended to replace the chain and cable if it is more than 10 years old. I have no idea how old the current set up is, but would not be surprised if it is the original. In the Tech Wiki I saw the Edson Maintenance pdf, but haven't found any Message Board threads on replacing the chain, cable, and eyebolt adjusters for the cable. Is this something you all have done as a Maintenance item, or is Edson upselling me? Thanks for the help.

Where did you install the carbon monoxide and propane alarm on your C34?

Jon W.

Hi Rick, I saw your response on the "wood under mast step" thread. Thanks and I'll keep looking for the pictures.

To give an update on my concerns whether there was a structural concern; today I got an answer from Warren Pandy at Catalina's Largo office.

Short version the answer is no structural concern by removing the wood core and not replacing the same built up thickness.

Longer version -
Per Warren, if the procedure for removal and repair of the bilge floor as shown in the drawing is followed there are no structural concerns. The plywood core fiberglass construction in addition to the approximate 1" hull thickness was a method originally used to increase stiffness in the bilge floor area. Although it added a measure of increased stiffness, around 1989 (in another thread hull #700 and newer was identified) the plywood core fiberglass construction method for the bilge floor was discontinued.

A couple of reasons for this:
1) determined it wasn't really needed.
2) water getting into the bilge is a reality, and customer feedback about wood damage and the risk of loose keel bolts caused them to revisit the design.

As a result, Catalina Yachts went to and continues to build with an all fiberglass construction method similar to that described in the repair procedure in addition to the approximate 1" hull thickness. No wood.

In my case, it turns out the current (now previous) owner had the boat hauled and redone in a local boat yard per the procedure outlined in the drawing. He also had the keel dropped, rebedded, and re-glassed. Looks like I need to start paying membership dues.

Thanks again to all.
Jon W.

I found phone numbers for Woodland Hills, CA and Largo, Fl at the bottom of the Catalina Yachts website. I'll call them tomorrow, hopefully they will be able to put me in contact with the right people. I also sent an E-mail to the customer support link. Will let everyone know what happens. Thanks again for all the outstanding help to a newcomer.  Jon W.

Where can I find the phone number? The Catalina Yachts website only has an E-mail contact.  Jon W.

Hi Rick,
   Do you still have the pictures of re-glassing the mast step from the 2012 post? I tried the link but it doesn't work. Thanks.
Jon W.

Hi Stu. I had found the thread from Rick Allen, and read most of what was there and the connecting links. However the picture he referred to didn't display so wasn't sure if he was only talking about the mast step, which was most of the text, or also the bilge floor. The drawing from your link did display and it is exactly what I was asking about, thanks very much.

I would like your and others opinions on whether I'm overthinking or not -

My concern was whether the integrity of the keel attachment was dependent on the wood being present for the additional thickness, ie acting as a doubler to increase the lateral stiffness to deal with ocean forces. From the dwg you pointed me to, it appears that the fix is to remove the wood and reglass with only 3 layers, a 6 " lip around the bilge, and reseal with gel coat. I don't see the requirement/recommendation to glass up to the original thickness of wood plus glass. This would lead me to believe the additional thickness from the wood plus glass is not necessary. Is that what you understand also?

If it isn't, I wonder why they would go to the trouble to put it in there?

It looks to me like the current owner made the repair per the drawing. Hopefully I'm in the clear, but guess I'll have to cut a deep socket in half to make it longer like was suggested here.

Jon W.

Went on a successful sea trial with the owner of hull #493, the boat I almost own. The current owner said when he purchased the boat there was wood encased in fiberglass between the keel bolt washers and the bilge bottom. (Sounded like it was a spacer). The wood was damaged from water so he removed all of it, and re-torqued the keel bolts/washers/nuts so they are clamping down directly to the bottom of the bilge. No spacer. Is there supposed to be a spacer/ something between the keel bolt washer and bilge bottom? I didn't find anything discussing this particular situation. Thanks for the help. Jon W.

Thought I'd give you all an update since you've been so helpful. After 12+ months of reading articles, spec sheets, forums, sailing video blogs, and looking at pictures of different types and brands of boats I've been able to narrow down the possible boat options. The past few weeks have been spent looking closely at boats from the bilge to the bulkhead tabs and hull to deck joints. The result of all this is that I put in an offer for a 1987 C34. We've settled on a price and I have the sea trial scheduled for this coming Friday. If all goes well there, the surveys are next, and if all goes well there I will take ownership. The alternator bracket and traveler through bolts have been done, but not sure about the engine harness. I didn't want to open the control panel to see how many terminals, but will be asking Friday. I read the article, but anybody hear of problems damaging the hull by converting from Marelon thru hulls and seacocks to bronze? Thanks for the help, and I'm looking forward to joining as a member in the near future.

Jon W.

My apologies for taking so long to respond to your feedback. I've been reading lots of different subjects on this site, but truth is it took a while for me to find the reply button at the bottom of this thread. Hopefully I'm doing this right.

Thanks everybody for the great feedback. I't seems each question I have had, there is not one, but a couple of answers either by yourselves, in the Tech Notes, the Tech Wiki, other links, or the links you sent. Concise, informative, I'm truly impressed.

I realize there is a difference between a Catalina and a Baba for example, but I got a kick out of the 1,500 nm trip story and to hear the failures he had. They really weren't much different than I've read from people on "true bluewater cruisers" like a Baba. Capability going up and down the west coast of California to Mexico was another question I had, and sure enough got an answer to that. Maybe the comments about the boat not being durable in the Cruisers forums, are exagerated?

I appreciate the offers from those that offered tours of your boats and to see the windlass installation. I may be taking you up on that offer. Well Saturday I'll be looking at a few more boats, and hopefully getting closer to the right one. Thanks again.