Messages

You're right, Fulvio. I've tried combinations from this web site and others. The best one for me came from this web site last year. I'm just going to go with what Catalina does from the factory. It's not too difficult to do. I have plenty of wire.

What a great website!

Mine is installed on the same bulkhead as #929, but under the mattress and I have a huge snake-wake under sail or power. I think I will move mine foward to the holding tank compartment where Catalina installs them.

Norris Johnson
Mariposa
#1408

Hey thanks, Stu. Didn't know about that site. I have been dealing with AER, the distributer for the Houston area.

Westerbeke.com will list the distributers for Universal engines.

Norris Johnson
Mariposa
#1408

Great! Enjoyed it! Wished I woulda took one when mine was being built.
Norris Johnson
Mariposa
#1408

Well, I guess I screwed-up. They repaired my flyback for 90 bucks and I put it back in. That was 2 mos ago. If it fails again, I'll chuck-it.

Norris Johnson
Mariposa
1408

I flush with fresh water from the Lavatory. I just pull the shower head over to the toliet and fill it with shower nozzle. I don't flip any switches on the pump. This will not conserve water while cruiseing, but it keeps the smell down. At the dock, I'm tied to city water.

Norris Johnson
Mariposa
#1408

Thanks Stu,
Good info! Sounds like the Statpower is the way to go.
Norris
Mariposa
#1408

Anyone had trouble with their Battery Charger? I have the Flyback 20-3 charger. It will
not go to the float mode. It use to go to the float mode (~1/2 amp). It continues to charge my two banks of 6 volt golf cart batteries at 7 to 8 amps. This will "cook" the water out of the batteries. I am going to contact the company.
Thanks,
Norris Johnson
Mariposa
#1408

Dave,
Hope you don't have a bigger problem. I replied earlier to another post and explained how my shaft had broken to the impeller. If you have already examined you impeller and it is bad. Don't worry.

There is a sleeve that Westerbeke will send you to put over the shaft joint to avoid the problem I had.

Norris Johnson
#1408

I contacted Westerbeke about the amount of oil I drained from my M35B and they conformed it shouldn't be but 3.5 qts. They sent me a updated version of their Operating Manual and it had the correction in it. I use the brass pump that came with my engine and I do remove the drain plug to be sure it is all out. It hasn't leaked yet, but next time I will go to the parts house to see if they have a soft washer replacement. I would suggest people e-mail Westerbeke about any questions they might have. I found them very helpful. Also, e-mail Fram for any filter cross-referencing, they are also helpful.

#1408

Yes, you can remove the pump and bearing housing by disconnecting the two 10mm bolts that connect the pump and bearing housing to the gear cover. Disconnect the suction and discharge hoses. Now you can remove the pump and bearing housing and turn the shaft with your fingers or with a pair of pliers. The bearing housing can be visually inspected without removing anything. It has some drain holes in it that will indicate if there is water getting into it. If you are in salt water, the drain holes or slots will be rusty. If this is the case, I would recommend you getting a new bearing housing with a good seal. If there is water getting into the bearing housing, the seal has failed.

[This message was edited by Norris Johnson on October 09, 2001 at 05:32 PM.]

I just replaced my raw water pump because the shaft to it was broken inside of the gear cover. I had to remove the engine head and the gear cover. The shaft to the pump is a continuation of the cam shaft, so it had to be replaced. Westerbeke was very good, in that, they sent me all of the parts free with a sleeve that slips over the shaft that comes out of the block. This tells me they knew they had a problem. I would highly recommend that anyone who has one of these engines contact Westerbeke to get one of these sleeves. There are only two size 10mm cap screws that hold the pump on. The shaft broke due to a seal failure between the pump and the bearing housing. This let salt water freeze up the bearing and break the shaft. You don't want to have to do this job, even with free parts!

I haven't been here in over a year. This is a great board. I'll be checking in more often.
Thanks,
Norris Johnson
#1408