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Haven't used the boat that much this summer.  Got here today and plugged into the dock power, finished unloading the  car.  Checked the Link when I was done and it was only showing 12.4v.  Something is not right.  I started checking around,  the power and ground leads seemed to move a bit in the charger.  Got the screwdriver out and tightend the set screws.  20 minutes later, the voltage is climbing.  Problem solved.  Making sure the connections are tight is now on the monthly checklist.

What should you do if you have transmitted a distress call on Channel 16 a number of times and received no reply?

A couple folks on the forum know, but I think it is important enough to tell all.  I retired about 18 months ago and at 61 seemed to be in great health.  No shortness of breath with exercise or pain/pressure in the chest.  Blood pressure was a bit high, diet change and more excercise fixed that.  Cholesterol has always been near the high end, but my Dr wasn't worried.   Have a history of heart disease in the family.  We are actively planning to live on the boat in the Fla Keys for the winter away for quick health care, so I decided to pay out of my pocket ($200) for a CT scan of my heart.   It showed enough calcium build up that I was referred to a Cardiologist.  The echo cardiogram showed a possible slight blockage, the stress test on the treadmill didn't show anything abnormal.  The Cardiologist decided to put me in the hospital and shoot some dye in the arteries to just make sure all was good because the other tests were not conclusive.  He gave me a 50/50 chance of finding anything, expected the procedure to take about an hour.  3.5 hours later they had put stents in two of the 3 major heart arteries.  The widow maker was 90% blocked, the one on the back side was 70%.  I was a walking major heart attack time bomb.

If you have a family history or any other indications.  Even if insurance won't pay for it, get the CT scan.....it and an understanding Dr saved my life.

My 20+ year old refer is dying.  Anybody got a recommendation for a good replacement and best place to purchase.  I've heard good things about Sea Frost.

The reception of weak radio signals may be improved by "opening the squelch".  What is the normal setting of the squelch control?

Found on the Blue Water Sailing weekly blog.

The United States Department of Transportation has issued an emergency order mandating a recall of cylinders manufactured by The Lite Cylinder Company, Inc. (Lite Cylinder).

The full recall order is available at: http://go.usa.gov/bbyV

However the Lite Cylinder company has issued the following Statement "Please be advised that The Lite Cylinder Company is no longer in business and is currently evaluating its legal options.

The company's facility is now closed and unable to receive cylinders returned per the instructions detailed in US DOT – PHMSA Emergency Order No. 2013-002. Furthermore, the company is financially insolvent and will not be able to recompense cylinder owners, dealers and distributors for the expenses incurred in complying with this Emergency Recall Order. "

Island Water World and Budget Marine are advising all their all customers to discontinue using these tanks immediately.

Both companies are offering limited assistance as the Lite Cylinder company is insolvent. They will offer to sell their customers any new propane tank close to cost which equates to a 35% discount on all aluminum and composite tanks in stock. You are required to bring to one of their locations any empty "Lite Cylinder" tanks and proof of purchase from one of their stores. This offer is subject to propane tank availability in their various store locations.

Courtesy of www.noonsite.com

How many points on a standard compass rose?

The plastic grating I have in the cockpit needs to go.  Going to replace it with wood.  I know we have pictures and dimensions, etc but can't find them because the search function and wiki are down.  Can those of you that have done this email the plans/pics please.  kenandvic at cox.net

Thanks

I was helping my neighbor pull some coax in his house to get TV in a back bedroom.  He mentioned that he was told he needed RG-6 cable instead of the standard coax in order to see the digital channels. Curious....I have 8 year old coax coming down the mast from the antenna....maybe that's why my digital reception is so bad?  Or was the salesperson just telling tales?

A couple days ago I replace my house bank....4 6v gc2's from Sam's Club. Do I need to do anything to break them in?  They were on the charger about 30 hours before I left the boat.

Your vessel is in distress and you are asked to give a "long count" by the Coast Guard.  This means....

Posting for a dock mate.   I've asked Tom S to post on the C36 board.  This is a clean well maintained boat.  Anybody know someone looking?  Boat is located on the Chesapeake.

In a crossing situation in open waters, a sailing vessel shall keep out of the way of all the following vessels except a...

The cruise was great.  If you ever get a chance to do the Panama Canal it really is the 8th wonder of the world.  now the question...

A white buoy with an orange square around it indicates....

When displayed under a single span fixed bridge, red lights indicate..

I have read about this quite often, but had my first experience recently on an extended cruise.  We had anchored off a friend's house, fairly protected from the winds, but the North/south tidal current was probably 1-2 kts at max flow.  The first couple of tide changes we were fine because the wind was strong enough to keep the anchor line taught.  About noon on the second day, the wind was shifting from an onshore easterly to a front driven SW flow.  It happened to be calm during the slack water between tide changes.  As we coming back from brunch in the dink, I could tell something was amiss, the boat was sitting sideways to the current, the anchor line taught tending aft tight against the hull.  Put on the mask and flippers and took a look.  Thankfully the line was just around the shoal draft keel.  I tried motoring off the line a couple different ways with no luck.  I guess I could have cancelled our afternoon sail with our friends and waited till slack tide to get the line free, but didn't want to do that.  What I ended up doing was pulling all the rode out of the anchor locker, back feeding it through the anchor roller bale and tying an inflatable bumper to the end of the rode.  I released the anchor line from the cleat and watched the anchor line disappear over the bow.  As the current pushed the boat away from the anchor I watched for the float to pop up on the opposite side of the boat.  It took a long long minute, but finally popped up about 5' off the port bow.  We got the boat stabilized, let the float get stabilized in the current then approached it like a mooring float.  For close quarters maneuvering we use "Marriage Savers" head mounted walkie talkies (www.cruisingsolutions.com) to ensure both of us know what is going on, they were extremely helpful in this instance.  After grabbing the float and anchor line, the Admiral simply shifted the boat in and out of forward to keep tension off the anchor line without leaving enough slack to cause another wrap.  After removing the float I rethreaded the anchor line and started recovering the excess rode.  We had a great late afternoon/sunset sail and reset the hook for a good night's sleep.
A couple of notes.  I had entered the coordinates of the original anchorage in the chartplotter.  If the float didn't reappear, I had a position to dive to recover the anchor.  Most of our rode is nylon; the float idea would not work with all chain and would probably scratch the side of the boat badly.  Had we lost the anchor, I do carry a backup, and we had a marina about an hour away should we not feel comfortable with the backup.  If the line had wrapped around the prop or rudder, our only choice would have been to abandon the anchor or wait till slack tide to try and unwind it.

You are at the helm of a ketch-rigged sailing vessel under sail on the starboard tack, close hauled, with all appropriate sails set and properly trimmed. You are instructed to "bear off quickly". To utilize your sails to assist with the turn, you should _______________.:

Every different type of sailing rig can be dangerous in certain circumstances. Which situation would most likely be dangerous?

Our YC held a great safety seminar last weekend.  Admiral is now interested in getting a DSC enabled VHF.  Figured I might as well get one with the AIS option.  Two birds with one stone.  Anybody have any experience with them? Ease of hook up? how well does it display on a Raymarine C series plotter? Best place to buy. etc.

The velocity of a rotary tidal current will be decreased when the Moon is

The lunar or tidal day is:

The average height of the surface of the sea for all stages of the tide over a 19 year period is called:

I'm planning on adding a second vent line when I pull this spring.  I borrowed Fred's picture because I forgot to take one last weekend.  The actual space in the MKI is different, but the space above the tank appears to be about the same, which causes problems.  Peggy has said on numerous occasions that more vent is good, so I intend to keep the original stanchion vent in use.  I see these as my options.
1.  replace the current "L" with a "T" and vent both lines using the existing vent hole.
2.  Move the current vent line to the end of the tank (A).  It will be easiest to add the vent to the back wall because of vertical clearance.  But worried about it plugging when the tank gets full.
3.  Add the second vent somewhere on the top, perform surgery on either the removable cover or fiberglass to allow clearance.

If option 2 or 3 is chosen, what is the best method for putting the fitting into the tank?

New info!! Might save yourself or a loved one.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=IeJLRdJpS1M

A normal safe working load for nylon rope is?

I'm tired of having to reset the rub rail after a less than stellar docking or departure.  I'm considering replacing the insert that always pops out with some wood.  Good idea?  Bad idea?

I was thinking of using teak, is there better choice?  An equal less expensive choice?

Also thought about putting a stainless cap over the existing insert, but worried if the insert compresses too much the cap will end up getting bent/dented.

Maybe the best option is the stainless cap over the wood.  If I win the lottery that will definitely be the way to go.

An email newsletter informed me about this site to sell or buy used equipment.  Looks promising, not to take away from our marketplace, but it may eventually get more traffic.  Think it is only a couple months old, so not alot to offer yet.  Buying or selling, it's another option.

http://www.usedboatequipment.com/

PYI introduced a new JEFA autopilot at the Chicago Boat Show.  On Special until the end of March ~$2500.

http://www.pyiinc.com/index.php?section=jefa-autopilot&sn=4

I did a search and didn't find much.  But I will admit I am not a search wizard.  A new bilge pump float switch failed at some point in the last month - 6 weeks and ran the house bank to 0.  So what to do to try and save the batteries.  Our Technical Editor John Nixon works in the battery industry, this is his reply in case someone should need it in the future.


The only good news in this is that this was happened in the winter instead of the middle of summer: the cooler temperatures gives you a bit more "forgiveness" than high temperatures. Having said that, you are still at a fairly critical time period on battery recovery since at the 45 to 60 day time period of deep discharge the lead sulfate associated with discharge begins to change into a crystallized form that doesn't easily convert back into lead oxide with normal charging methods.


I hope you have a lot of time available this weekend, because your 20 amp charger will pretty much need most of the weekend to recharge the batteries and perform some recovery process work. You could speed thing up if you have or can borrow a second charger that you can parallel with your TrueCharge 20 during the bulk and absorption charge phases


The first thing to do is to simply get the batteries recharged as soon as possible. In their present condition that will probably take at the least 24 to 36 hours with a 20 amp charger. Leave the charger on even after it has gone to float mode, because the last part of the recharge will occur with the float charge to get the last 10 to 15 percent of recharge. You can stop the normal charging when the charge current in float mode drops below about .5 amps. After that, you should perform an equalization charge on the batteries. Your charger is under-powered for a 400+ a-hr bank, so you will likely have to run 2 equalization cycle charges. I think the TrueCharge equalization cycle terminates after 6 hours, but I'll have to verify that. If you run out of time, try to get at least 1 equalization charge completed this weekend, and then get another one done as soon after that as possible.

The only good way you will have to determine if you are doing any good is to run a load test on the boat after the batteries have rested 24 hours. I assume you have a battery monitor of some sort on the boat, and your load test will be to determine if you have useable capacity again with your batteries. Rather than give you specific parameters, the bottom line for you is if the batteries will give you the capacity to allow you to use the boat the way you want. Your past experience probably gives you a few key parameters that will let you know if you are at that point.

Added to the battery section of the Tech Wiki

Currently having some problems with this app.  Will repost when we get it fixed.

Craig Illman sent me a neat excel program to post on the wiki.  The wiki will not accept the program, I think because of the embedded macros.  If any of you are "excel masters", perhaps you can convert the program to something the wiki will accept.

The program determines the amount of horizontal pull necessary to lift the rode off the bottom resulting in a vertical pull out force on the anchor.  Inputs are rode length, type, and kellet use.

Unfortunately I can't post it here either.  If anyone would like a copy send me an email or PM.

found a couple of sites that have alot of information.  The first one is based out of Spain so many of the titles are in spanish, but most of the documents are in english.

http://www.pdfmarinelibrary.com/

The second one is from the PYI website.  Manuals for the products they sell.

http://www.pyiinc.com/index.php?section=downloads

I'll add them to the misc manuals section of the wiki

Looking for help for friends.  They left the Chesapeake with the first group doing the Salty Dog Rally to Tortola on Nov 7.  After a too close encounter with TS Sean, they limped into Ft Pierce via the Abaco's with a broken boom, torn sails/canvas, broken rigging and damage to a lot of the electronics.  Repairs are underway, due to back orders, it looks like it will be the end Dec before the boat is really ready to go.
   
They are now planning on going home to Michigan for Christmas and birth of first granddaughter.  Airline connections are much better in West Palm. Looking for a reasonably cheap place to keep the boat for a month.  They have solar so an empty pier is really all they need.  Access by an electrician to finish the installs is a requirement.  More than happy to pay a reasonable amount to use someone's private pier.  42' Bennetau, 6' draft.

Can any of our Fla members help out or suggest a good place to store the boat?

If you don't want the info public, please PM or email me, use the buttons under my Avatar.

British tv show about sailboat safety.  Last episode shows why safety with propane is so important.  If you watch carefully you can see the propane settle to the bottom of the cabin then slowly fill it up. 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yxm3uMy6MPI&feature=player_embedded#!

As you all know I'm a huge supporter of the C34 site.  I personally think it is one of the best single boat sites on the web.

It's really nice when an outsider thinks so also.

http://forums.sailinganarchy.com/index.php?showtopic=127873

A big thank you to everyone that contributes

Been emailing John Nixon our Mainsheet Technical Editor about some battery issues.  I pass on this tip:

"A word to the wise: replace the wing nuts with regular hex nuts, and tighten them with a wrench. I can't begin to tell you how many problems are caused by "finger tight" wing nuts. They came about because of fishermen needing to easily remove batteries in trailerable boats. They are nothing but trouble looking for a place to happen."

Does this qualify for posting in Electrical 101?

Stumbled across a very helpful website.  Neat customizeable weather app.  Tons of reference, technical, and manuals in the Reference & Manuals section.  Links have been added to the Tech Wiki.

http://l-36.com/index.php?menu=1

Owner of the site gave me permission to share.

My paddle wheel has a few broken teeth.  If you are upgrading and have a good paddle wheel I'd love to take it off your hands.

About a year ago I had an article in the Mainsheet by the same title.  Time to add something new.

I really don't like spending $4-5 a can for air refills for the horn.  But until recently had not found a suitable substitute.  I was helping a friend reposition her boat, we were getting into traffic, so she pulled out this plastic contraption.  She put it to her lips and gave it a blow.  I about jumped out of my skin...how does that thing make that much noise!

There are several different manufacturers, according to the websites, the Safety Blaster Horn puts out at least 120db and can be heard over a mile a way.  Meet USCG regs, floats and does not rust.  West Marine no longer carries them, might be available at Bass Pro Shops.  Easiest to order on line.  Depending on brand price is $7-15.

Many of you have probably seen the tv or facebook footage of the sailboat that was washed ashore in Norfolk during Irene.  Dumb move, glad they are safe, wish they hadn't put the emergency folks in danger.  Don't want to start that debate/rant.

Posting to show the wrong way to anchor with all chain rode, especially in a storm.  Notice how the chain has sawn through the bow of the boat!  If you are using all chain, you should be using a bridal to transfer the load on the chain to the bow cleats, the chain between the bridle and the bow should be slack.  I'll give them the benefit of doubt, perhaps they thought it was too rough to attempt attach the bridle.

Picture from CBS News.

WM recall on Ronca Anchors.

http://content.westmarine.com/documents/pdfs/RECALLS/PRODUCT%20SPECIFICATION%20NOTICE%20FOR%20WEBSITE%20-%208%2001.pdf

Disclaimer for "noworries":  changed topic heading to include the word "recall"

Mine has stopped working.  Wild guess at this point, but I assume it has a small motor turning plastic gears that turn the hour wheels.  If it is like a car, it is the gears that fail.  We have a shop locally that manufacturers replacement gears for auto speedos, etc. 

If I can get it appart may be able to repair.  Has anybody tried to disect one?

Link to the Fleet's website.  In the near future you will be able to post pictures, stories, etc.  Do you have any suggestions to make it better?

http://www.c34.org/fleet12/

I was surfing the web and came across this tidbit of information on the Mermaid A/C troubleshooting page.

Ensure the air conditioners water coil is not full of debris.  Even the cleanest of strainers can still allow silt, sand, or other debris to accumulate in the air conditioners condensing coil.  This will inhibit heat transfer and cause the air conditioner to lose cooling capacity and run warmer - eventually causing the pressures to exceed the high pressure reset button setting of 375psi.   A fresh water coil flush may be necessary, if it is deemed necessary.  Simply flush the air conditioners water coil and lines with garden hose pressure water.  The pumps in the marine industry are volume pumps, not pressure pumps.  The flow of water through a garden hose is substantially higher and can flush the debris that may have accumulated inside the water coil.  It is recommended to do this procedure at least once or twice a year.  The frequency of this will depend on the caliber of water your vessel is in.

I know the water in the Chesapeake is dirty....another one for the project list!

Time to clean up the C34 and C34 parts for sale message boards.  If you have something listed please go in and delete if the item has been sold or annotate that it is still for sale.  Got some posts that are for 2009.

Thanks

Finally made the upgrade to a single line furler.  Using the Hood owner upgrade program I got a Hood Sea Furl 5 model 325 for about half the list price.  What an improvement!!

I've given away most of the reusable pieces.  For those of you that still have the continous line 915  model, I have 2 of the small plastic rope strippers that are inserted into the furling drum assembly.  They are usually the piece that gets sacrificed to King Neptune when you do maintenance.  Anybody want them?

It's on my project list been doing some research.  It is not necessary to buy the base & pump replacement unit as sold by the SailboatOwners.com store.  The individual parts are available at other sites.  So far the cheapest completed pump assembly and bowl base gasket can be found at BoatersLand.com.  Haven't looked real hard but the base can be had at Sailnet.com.  So far the pieces priced seperately are $60-70 less than the combined unit.

This topic has been moved to Question of the Month.

http://c34.org/bbs/index.php?topic=6221.0

This topic has been moved to Question of the Month.

http://c34.org/bbs/index.php?topic=6206.0

This topic has been moved to Question of the Month.

http://c34.org/bbs/index.php?topic=6174.0