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Dan, Looks great, really nice work.

I used Trident 147 for the scupper drains and the electric bilge pumps.

FWIW I used Trident 147 VAC HXD Bilge and Livewell hose. It's a smooth bore extra heavy wall hose that's clear with a black helix stripe. I used a heat gun to soften the end before attaching to make installation easier. They list operating temp as 10-140 degree F. Not sure the operating temp is a problem for you anymore than any other hose, but your call.

Would you guess the amount of coolant in the bilge was about equal to the 1/3 missing from the coolant reservoir on the engine? If so, and you don't see coolant anywhere else, you're problem is most likely a leak from one or both of the hoses going to the water heater. If one hose was cracked at the WH nipple, odds are it's time to replace both hoses.

Do you have a photo from a little farther away to help us see how it's hooked up? It would also help to add your boat info/year in your profile signature.

Hi Ken. In response to your question about draining and refilling, I just removed my HX. To do that I drained the coolant reservoir, and drained the coolant from the HX. Just shy of a gallon coolant in total, so think the block, coolant pump, and thermostat housing were empty. After replacing the HX, I filled the reservoir, then began pumping as described above. Added more coolant into the reservoir to top off. Put the "radiator" cap on, and started the engine. Ran for about 20 minutes in the slip and temperature stayed in the normal range. I plan to take the boat out and motor around for about an hour next week to put the system under load to verify all is good. Hope that answers your question.

Hi Ken, wrote the following knowing folks of varying levels of experience use this forum. Not trying to be a wise guy. Except for the ball valve on the thermostat housing, I learned this method from Ron Hill, so credit goes to him.

The set up is a Par hand pump, and a short piece of (1/2" id I think) clear hose open on one end and reduced down to a hose barb to fit the water heater loop hose connected to the thermostat housing on the other end. Optional is a second short section of clear (1/2"id I think) hose to fit onto the discharge end of the Par hand pump. I found this piece of hose is not really needed.

Remove the coolant reservoir/tank "radiator" pressure cap. This is not the overflow tank.

Disconnect the hose in the water heater loop from the thermostat housing, and plug the hose barb into it. Connect the open end of the clear hose to the suction end of the Par hand pump. Optional add a short section of clear hose to the discharge end of the Par hand pump.

Put the discharge end of the pump into the coolant reservoir/tank (not the overflow tank). Begin hand pumping and you will draw coolant through the system and back into the reservoir/tank. Continue pumping until the stream of fluid into the reservoir/tank is a clear solid color indicating no air in the coolant loop. Reconnect the water heater loop hose to the thermostat housing, being careful not to loose any coolant. Put the "radiator" cap back on.

Start the engine and watch that the temperature stays in normal range. A simple no mess bleed/burp method.

I also replaced the OEM valve on the top of the thermostat housing with a ball valve. My final bleed step is to connect a clear 1/4" tube to the ball valve and tape it to the hand hold near the top of the companionway. Surprisingly the fluid will climb that high. With the engine running I open the ball valve. The coolant begins to fill the hose and remaining air bubbles in the system percolate out. When the air bubbles stop or slow to almost nothing, I close the ball valve.

FWIW - If the Par hand pump has been sitting a while, put some o-ring lubricant on the shaft and the internal rubber pump plunger. Otherwise the pump may be "sticky" and not operate smoothly.

Hi Dan. The 1.5" hose from the deck to the bottom side of the holding tank is for pumping out (emptying) the holding tank at a pump out station. It should be connected to a cap on the deck that says "Waste".

The 1.5" hose from the head connects the toilet to the top side of the holding tank. When you flush the toilet it empties into the holding tank.

The 1" hose from the stanchion is the holding tank vent, and should connect to an elbow screwed into the top center of the tank as Ken mentioned.

The purpose of the macerator pump is to be able to empty the holding tank overboard thru an anti siphon loop then  out of the seacock. You can only discharge your holding tank overboard where it is allowed. If you're not allowed to discharge overboard where you sail, you don't need a macerator. Check your local laws/rules.

Glad you mentioned the write up in the Tech Wiki. I went back to jog my memory and noticed the last photo is for a different write up. It's correct now.

I agree with Holger. I haven't used it, but I have a 3rd reef in the main too. It was only a few dollars to add to a new sail, and is cheap insurance.

When you changed the coolant, did you follow the steps to "burp" the system? If coolant level in the reservoir is normal, raw water flow is good, no hot water at the tap, but temp gauge reading very high I suspect an air lock as well.

Hi Brian, not the way to end the day. You have good raw water flow out the exhaust and your coolant level is fine correct?

Have you done any work on or around the engine recently? Has the engine been running at normal temperature until this?

My 2 cents - Do yourself a favor and rebed all of your lifeline stantions with Bed-It-Butyl tape (if you can still get it). One at a time remove your stantions, clean the bottom of the stantion and the deck surface with acetone making sure all of the old sealant is gone. Check the deck core and seal it so water can't be absorbed into it. Then put a slight countersink in the holes in the deck surface for the butyl tape to form a gasket in. Add backing plates from the inside, put it all back together, tighten the bolts/screws snug then wait a day. On the second day do a final torque of bolts/screws. I haven't had a leak in 9 years. Good luck. YBYC

Nice work Dan.

Two photos. The shower sump pump switch is the small rectangle below the teak trim on the sink counter and to the right of the head locker door. Not as modern looking as Noah's, but it works.

and it's a lot quieter.