Messages

A friend told me I might get a pressure tester on loan from an auto parts store-says you place it where the radiator cap goes, pump up the pressure and reveal the leak site hopefully.  Does this sound right/possible?

It's good trouble shooting.  Much better than guessing at what to change.
Jim

That clear part is an inline filter to keep schmutz out of the pump diaphragm.  You should be able to find a replacement.

Correct. Take a good look at the way it closes.  Think it's like a quarter turn twist.  I have to be careful when I clean mine, it does take more force than I like to put on plastic.  But that's the way it's made.  A little Superlube may help.
Jim

So I had drenched all of the fittings above the hatch level and saw no resulting leakage.  Are there any others that I hadn't mentioned in my post?

From your description, sounds like you have a leak into the core somewhere, could be anywhere above the leak.  The water gets in then takes some time to show below. The core is wet for a long time, very bad. 
I suggest you rebed all the deck fittings in the area, along with drying out the core as much as possible.  May take days to dry.
Jim

Vents, vented stanchions and rebeding have been well covered here.  Anyone needing a nights reading on the subjects only has to do a search.
 
One additional thing about the stanchions I'd like to bring up again, get rid of the fender washers.  Call Garhauer and get proper backing plates.  Need to call, they were easily available but not in online catalog and I believe fairly priced.  Don't forget to order ones with the big hole for the vent tube where needed.
Jim

Raymond,
Shamrock is a little different than you have, a MKll standard rig with roller furling main.  I do sail the same area.  I'm very happy with a 140% genoa.  Original was a 165% and heavy cloth, I didn't think it matched the boat well.  If you use a whisker pole, I don't, you may want to go with the larger genoa and pole it out for downwind sailing.  For downwind I use an asymmetrical spinnaker launched in a sock.
The sailmaker that did my sails is semiretired, I do hear good things about the new loft in Erie. Americancruisingsails.com
Hope that helps,
Jim 

Jim, shower hangs off the stern rail alongside a 5 pound propane tank. I don't have it installed this season since we have no trips planned, just day sailing.

Thanks, I didn't know they were made.  I'm planning a North Channel trip next season and will consider leaving the solar shower home and buy one.  As I get older swimming with soap in the cold water has much less appeal.
Jim

We also have a propane fired instant hot water heater for cockpit showers when engine or electric heat aren't available.

That's absolutely decadent.  Sure would beat the solar shower bag. I'd be interested in seeing some pictures of that installation especially the chimney.
Jim   

Man, o man...after all that good work you did cleaning your system, and you are proposing to STILL use lake water anywhere near the domestic water system on your boat...you are crazy.     You do what you are proposing the lake water still gets in the system right?  You only have one domestic water pressure pump.

You do realize it was the crap in the LAKE water itself that made the smell to begin with?  Surely you do...

Stu,
I talked with a municipal water engineer that used water from Lake Huron and the Georgan Bay. He claimed it was safer than the water in the marinas that has been sitting in pipes/hoses of questionable quality.  He did treat with clorox.  This water from the North Channel is crystal clear.
That's not what I do but I've talked to one expert that does.  After talking to him I do add Clorox to my water tanks when I fill from the marinas  1.5 oz aft tank 1 oz fwd tank.
Jim

Man, o man...after all that good work you did cleaning your system, and you are proposing to STILL use lake water anywhere near the domestic water system on your boat...you are crazy.     You do what you are proposing the lake water still gets in the system right?  You only have one domestic water pressure pump.

You do realize it was the crap in the LAKE water itself that made the smell to begin with?  Surely you do...

Stu,
I talked with a municipal water engineer that used water from Lake Huron and the Georgan Bay. He claimed it was safer than the water in the marinas that has been sitting in pipes/hoses of questionable quality.  He did treat with clorox 1oz per 30 gal.  This water from the North Channel is crystal clear.
That's not what I do but I've talked to one expert that does.  After talking to him I do add Clorox to my water tanks when I fill them 1.5 oz aft tank 1 oz fwd tank.
Jim

Jim what do you use to suck out the transmission fluid?  Same method for sucking out the engine oil?

I have used my engine oil sucker but found that cumbersome.  I now use a fluid extractor from Amazon, the exact one I use is not available, just search Amazon for fluid extractor and make your choice.  I really like it.  Use it for a number of small suck up jobs.  Much better than turkey baster for getting that last bit of water from bilge.
Jim

PBYRNE, 
When the hot water gets funky on Shamrock I just flush the hot water with regular water.  Open galley sink, head sink and cockpit shower run for 5 minutes, wait, repeat a few times.  Then refill the aft water tank.
The hot water tank is not quick to flush, it's made to mix hot and cold water, opening the drain will still leave water in the tank, a few inches.

That and trying to use the hot water, even if it's not hot, as much as possible works for me.
Hope that helps,
Jim

Another thing that comes to mind.  If the lines are funky the smell would be strong at first then less as more fresher water flows.  If the tank is funky the smell would continue. 

It's part of my annual maintenance to drain (suck out) and over fill the transmission in the fall the draw down to the proper level in the spring.  Several years ago found that the only Dextron (latest number) offered was synthetic. Suppose to be compatible with previous Dextron. I've been using that, Castrol, but any brand would do. I have not had any problems.
Like you I also try to use what works, but in this case I'm buying the new synthetic because it's available and may be better.  At a higher cost.
Jim
 

Rick,
I was happy to showoff Shamrock.  For the fans I taped into the cabin lights circut.  After determining that there was no problem with wire size. The local hardware store has neat connectors in several sizes,
https://www.cablewholesale.com/products/power-products/terminals-connectors/product-18110-1.php

Very easy to use and haven't had any issues.
Jim

With my M25XP engine - on two occasions I've had a marina owner and on another a dockmaster say to me when I was throwing off my bow lines, "Aren't you going to start your engine"? which was already running!!! The moral of that story is that you can get the M25XP to run smoothly and quietly!!

Ron, I've also had that happen.  Shamrock's M35 is smooth and certainly quiet enough to have a normal conversation when motoring.  The engine room blower does add to the sound level but that can be turned off.  Much quieter than my Honda 2000.
Jim

I forgot to mention you should get yourself a shaker type siphon hose to transfer the diesel from  the jerry can to the fuel tank.

I use a battery powered one like this.
https://www.northerntool.com/products/sierra-tools-battery-operated-liquid-transfer-pump-1-1-4-to-1-1-2-gpm-3-4in-dia-x-23-1-2-24in-l-hose-model-jb5684-550704
Works good for me.  Have 2, one on the boat one at home.
Did I mention how I hate the new design gas can spouts.  Can't pour fuel without spilling.
Jim