Catalina 34

The OEM fuel pump on my 1987 finally gave out.  I read all the posts on the fuel pump 101 and then went to a NAPA owned store for a replacement.  All the past part numbers did not come up. They have two part numbers for a Facet High Performance Gold-Flo unit that looks like the one remove from the boat with hose nipples and no inline fuse.  I think I should connect the black wire from the pump to the existing black wire that splits into, if I recall a brown and black (perhaps red, not at the boat)

One model is a 610-1074 12v 4-4.5 psi, the second is a 610-1076 12v 6.5-8 psi.  My question is, which psi pump should I purchase.  The cost of the first is $149.00 plus tax and the second about $10.00 more.

If this question has been asked and answered, I apologize as I could not find it in 15 pages of posts, not in date order.

Thanks

Jim

On the Wiki —> Fuel.  Take a lQQk.
I had posted pumps that work. OEM is lower pressure but it doesn't matter, either will work. I also reference another source that's less expensive from YachtSupply.

Ken

Searching the wiki brings up 249 results.

Good luck  :?

Quote from: britinusa on May 06, 2018, 12:33:55 PM
Searching the wiki brings up 249 results.

Good luck  :?

Just a suggestion on using the Wiki....

First look in the contents / under the section of your subject matter.  Search at last resort.

e.g. For replacement thermostat part numbers...   Wiki > Engine > Cooling

Just the opposite for the forum, unless you know it's a relatively recent thread!

-k

Jim, I bought one from NAPA in 2013, the #610-1075 was the one I purchased. 
Good luck.
Paul

Jim : Almost any electrical fuel pump will work. There has been a number of posts and Mainsheet tech note articles on even using a square (low 4-5 psi) pump without the internal filter.

With the fuel tank higher than the engine (in a C34) the fuel will gravity flow to keep the engine running.  I did that for over a year.  I found the main use of the electric fuel pump on a C34 is to bleed the system when you change a filter!!

The black wire (ring connector to the bracket on the pump body of the fuel pump) is the ground!! 

A few thoughts

Quote from: Jim Brener link=topic=9874.msg75351#msgy75351 date=1525630472

.  I think I should connect the black wire from the pump to the existing black wire that splits into, if I recall a brown and black (perhaps red, not at the boat)

Jim-

The wire on the pump is the 12v feed, there is no ground wire.  The ground connection side is the case/bracket that gets a ring terminal on a mounting machine screw.

The wire on the pump, IIRC, is (or used to be) black.  You connect it to the (should be) red wire that comes from the panel key switch.  Catalina actually runs redundant wires from the key switch. The pump can also be powered by tapping the alternator field excite wire (should be) purple wire that goes to the back of the alternator, which is energized when the key is on.

-k


PS: The yachtsupply pump is about 80 boat bucks.

I picked up a spare fuel pump in 2015 and needed it at the end of the 2016 season.   My source was  Aircraft Spruce out of Brantford Ontario. There are US distribution points also. I paid $101.95 CDN in 2015.  They are still less than $110 CDN which is comparable to the $80 USD price Ken referenced.

It's seems amazing to me that an aircraft distributor would be significantly less than NAPA.   

Aircraft Spruce Canada link. $106.90 CDN:
https://www.aircraftspruce.ca/catalog/eppages/facetgoldflo.php (https://www.aircraftspruce.ca/catalog/eppages/facetgoldflo.php)

NAPA US link $150.99 USD:
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_6101075 (https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_6101075)

Add that to the list of "Things that make you go hmmmmm".

You can also get them on Amazon from $88 to $108 depending on psi and fitting size.  They get the fuel pump from an outfit called Pilot Shop.
Paul

A couple of years ago, I followed Ken's suggestion to get my pump from Yacht Supply.  It was the exact same pump that was on my '87

I installed the NAPA 610-1074 fuel pump with no problems.  It mounted in the same holes as the OEM pump.  The black wire from the pump was connected to the existing black wire.  It does make a clicking sound, somewhat fast so I need to try to adjust it at the knob (now missing) at the engine to see if the click slows down.  The cost $149.00 plus tax, could have chased down a lower cost for the same item but time was more important than money in this case.

The Fuel Pump 101 should be cleaned up with the old posts with old part numbers removed.  Since there are two NAPA pumps with different pressures, a note that the 4-5.5 psi is acceptable.

Quote from: Jim Brener on May 15, 2018, 10:16:24 AM
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The Fuel Pump 101 should be cleaned up with the old posts with old part numbers removed.  Since there are two NAPA pumps with different pressures, a note that the 4-5.5 psi is acceptable.

Thanks, Jim, I just added this thread to that subject.

Stu,

Just wondering, does the 101 link to the wiki?  That's where I posted the replacement parts numbers and sources.
For my money that's where that kind of info should reside, but it's an old soapbox.  8)

k

Is there any information on the comparative reliability of the brick style NAPA pump 610-1051 ($53) and the referenced purolator gold flo pump (about $150)?

The reason I ask is that the NAPA pump I installed 3 years ago just failed.  It still clicks when energized but does not pump any fuel.  I had heard this pump referenced as  being much more reliable than previous models, and so I expected  more than a 3 year life.

To get better reliability, should I spend triple on the gold flo, or just buy an extra 610-1051 as a spare so I would be prepared when it fails?

Quote from: Roland Gendreau on June 25, 2018, 06:11:35 PM
Is there any information on the comparative reliability of the brick style NAPA pump 610-1051 ($53) and the referenced purolator gold flo pump (about $150)?
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Roland,

Since you know the "Magic Number" for that pump, I'd have thought you'd seen this, part of the topic that introduced those pumps:

http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,2515.msg32522.html#msg32522

Stu

I did in fact see that thread but found it confusing as the email from Marti Chin at baymarinediesel did not reference a specific model pump in his statement about pumps failing.  He also referenced 'cheaper is better' , which made me think he was stating that the 610-1051 had better reliability, since it is so much cheaper. 

Can you clarify which pump he is referring to when he says they all failed and which pump he is recommending?

Roland,

I don't know what Marti may have had in mind.

But I kept reading the posts on that topic when I found it yesterday, and would follow our Technical Editor John Nixon's guidance in his excellent post further down the page. 

For anyone who has replaced the oem lift pump with a new "electronic/solid state" Facet -- have you noticed whether the new pump continues to click away at the same quick pace after (presumably) the fuel delivery has been pressurized (ie, key on, engine off, bypass closed.) 

The oem would slow down to a near stop, but someone else reported that the replacement Facet (aka Purolator) continues to click away at the same quick pace no matter what.

Has anyone specifically noticed that?

tia

Ken : I talked to the engineers that make Facet pumps about the "new electronic/solid state) pumps both round and square.  He told me that it was the elimination of the "points " that would open/close that is solid state, but the pump was still mechanical so you still heard the "ticking" sound.

I believe that the pump ticking(pumping) slows to a steady pace when the pressure in the line stabilizes. 

A few thoughts

Thanks Ron!
That explains the one nagging question about the new pumps. I'm thinking maybe the guy who has the constant fast ticking has a vac leak.

Today I spoke with the technical expert at Facet/Purolator regarding my new fuel pump (model MMDW412496).
He told me that the old Facet pumps did slow down in the clicking rate as the system became pressurized (something we on this listserve knew).  In 1996, the circuit board in the fuel pump was changed, and that now in models produced since then the pump runs continuously, even when the system is fully pressurized. 
As a consequence, the clicking remains at a high rate all the time. 
If one listens carefully, one can notice a change in the sound quality as pressurization occurs, but the clicking rate itself doesn't change.

Bob

Cheers
Ken