Many years back Graham Mackay posted a solution to a screeching companionway hatch sliding against the cabin top. I followed his instructions to the letter and it solved my problem. This solution was posted on the Catalina 36 forum.
Basically you slide a strip of HDPE into the hatch glide channel and the steel glides move smoothly without that horrible screeching of metal on dirty gel coat. The strip of HDPE plastic is 72"x 1"x 1/16". Simple solution but finding the material without purchasing a 4' by 8' sheet of HDPE is almost impossible. So I bit the bullet and purchased the material and had the plastic cut to the required pieces. So I have 18 sets of glide plastic. When there gone there gone. I wont be quitting my day job. Contact me at holzie-at-gmail if your interested. For a nominal charge I'll mail a set to you. They really do work!
https://youtu.be/1AOsPGluaDs
mho : I did the same by placing a strip of Lexan between the hatch and the slot it rides in. Stopped the noise!!
You can also look for some material that carpenter shops use for the table top strips for their saws. Any material that will make the hatch slide easier with the least friction.
A thought
I'm interested in a set, and just sent you an email as you requested.
Mine has yet to screech, but...
I assume on your strips you have to remove the hatch and screw them to the deck with flush countersunk screws?
Has anyone tried this Teflon hatch tape product from CD?
http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm/product/1312_932/sliding-hatch-teflon-tape.cfm
Interested too, email sent.
Jeremy
Quote from: Noah on July 24, 2017, 05:13:32 PM
Mine has yet to screech, but...
I assume on your strips you have to remove the hatch and screw them to the deck with flush countersunk screws?
Has anyone tried this Teflon hatch tape product from CD?
http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm/product/1312_932/sliding-hatch-teflon-tape.cfm
Actually the beauty of this simple fix is you slide them in without removing anything. The trick with the plastic strip is it cant be more than 1/16". To install I just flush fresh water down the channel to rinse any sand or grit. After that you just slide them under the two metal glides that are grinding against your gelcoat. Later model C36 and C34 have a lip that keeps the hatch from sliding beyond the hatch boards earlier do not. With earlier model boats I have use double side foam tape at the end of the strip, not the whole way, maybe 1.5" long or a dab of silicone glue to keep the strip in place but I have seen folks just lay them in and friction holds them in place. HDPE is the correct material because is UV resistant.
On our previous boat - C250 - we used a PTFE Tape, worked great, only snag was that it was self adhesive and did not stick well to the curved surface beneath the hatch cover.
Looking to do the same on our C34.
Paul
I rub some beeswax on mine at the beginning of each season. Lasts throughout the summer.
Quote from: britinusa on July 25, 2017, 09:49:05 AM
On our previous boat - C250 - we used a PTFE Tape, worked great, only snag was that it was self adhesive and did not stick well to the curved surface beneath the hatch cover.
Looking to do the same on our C34.
Paul
Been there and done that. If you want to take the sliding hatch apart you can replace the Teflon tape that Catalina originally installed. No fun. This fix takes 5 minutes tops. Regarding bees wax when sand dirt and grit get in the track its harder to clean once you've coated with bees wax or any other lubricant.
Paypal payment link:
I am learning as I go. I have helped about 7 boat owners live quieter lives!! The link below takes you right to the page to pay. Pretty cool!!
Click this paypal.me/markholzmann/15 (http://paypal.me/markholzmann/12)
Guys : the Lexan strips that I cut were 1/16" thick and a bit over 5 ft long. I countersunk a small flat head brass screw to hold the strips in place
Wrote that up years ago in the Mainsheet tech notes. Worked and is still working like a CHAMP!!!
Since that time I found some "slippery" material that they use for table saws tables. However, I never had to install it as the Lexan still works!!
A thought
The real trick is finding lengths necessary without having to buy a huge sheet like I did. If you can great if not let me know. I have about 8-9 sets left.
I just used some Dupont Teflon spray. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D3G6IFE/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I2L5G1GBDB3EN5&colid=3R8QVWGIZ1IRY , cheaper than McLube.
Craig
This has been a fun project and great success! Several folks have written back to say they work and how easy it is and how happy they are!!
I have about 4 sets left out the original run of 22 sets. Should I order another run?? Are there enough squeaky hatches to rescue? Will Timmy get out of the well? Will Lois find out Clark's true identity? Stay tuned
Thanks Mark, I received the strips and slid in no problem. Looks like friction isn't quite enough to hold in place securely. The strips slide around (but haven't come out) inside the channel. I'll probably use Ron's approach and try a couple stainless screws to secure. Thanks for cutting these. Nice cuts too.
Glad to hear they solved the problem. Moving in the channel may be of some benefit. Some have had success with just a little butyl tape on the end. Try it before drilling. 8) 8)
Guys : In the edition (May 2017) of Handyman magazine - they talk about "Smoother Drawer Runners".
By using MELAMINE tape that comes in rolls. It's found in Home centers and Woodworking shops or on line @ fastcap.com.
I'm sure it is a lot cheaper than anything from Catalina or CD!!
A thought
Quote from: Ron Hill on August 07, 2017, 12:29:44 PM
By using MELAMINE tape that comes in rolls. It's found in Home centers and Woodworking shops or on line @ fastcap.com.
Ron is that the stuff I've seen that is preglued and iron-on?
Thank you Mark. I have received my set and will fit them soon I hope.
Very kind of you.
It's been suggested to flush out the channels first. I don't have any drainage holes on mine so how can I clean them out?
Quite a few have asked me for the strips so I cut another 22 sets. These work great!
www.paypal.me/markholzmann/15
Quote from: chuck53 on August 08, 2017, 06:43:36 PM
It's been suggested to flush out the channels first. I don't have any drainage holes on mine so how can I clean them out?
A coat hanger with a wet rag tied on?
Ken : Could be the pre-glued or iron on, but I have a roll of the same 3" wide X 10' (can be cut) that's about 1/32" thick (stiff) sticky-back that I got from Woodwookers Supply catalog # 813784 (800) 645-9292
Don't remember the price, but would guess at about $10/20? Super slippery stuff for table saws
A thought
Quote from: mark_53 on August 10, 2017, 05:23:57 PM
Quote from: chuck53 on August 08, 2017, 06:43:36 PM
It's been suggested to flush out the channels first. I don't have any drainage holes on mine so how can I clean them out?
A coat hanger with a wet rag tied on?
Good suggestion, but shouldn't the boat have some kind of drainage and what's the best way to add some kind of drainage to the channels?
Quote from: chuck53 on August 12, 2017, 06:07:50 AM
Quote from: mark_53 on August 10, 2017, 05:23:57 PM
Quote from: chuck53 on August 08, 2017, 06:43:36 PM
It's been suggested to flush out the channels first. I don't have any drainage holes on mine so how can I clean them out?
A coat hanger with a wet rag tied on?
Good suggestion, but shouldn't the boat have some kind of drainage and what's the best way to add some kind of drainage to the channels?
There should be drainage holes/slots on the forward and aft outer edges of the teak hatch board slider covers. (or fMark I to I-1/2 boats)
Quote from: chuck53 on August 12, 2017, 06:07:50 AM
Quote from: mark_53 on August 10, 2017, 05:23:57 PM
Quote from: chuck53 on August 08, 2017, 06:43:36 PM
It's been suggested to flush out the channels first. I don't have any drainage holes on mine so how can I clean them out?
A coat hanger with a wet rag tied on?
Good suggestion, but shouldn't the boat have some kind of drainage and what's the best way to add some kind of drainage to the channels?
I didn't see any drainage holes on my 1989.
On the C36 92 and older water drains directly aft to the cockpit. In 93 and later in the MkII the water is diverted to the cabin top. I believe on the 34 it's the same.
Quote from: mholzmann on August 13, 2017, 12:02:22 PM
On the C36 92 and older water drains directly aft to the cockpit. In 93 and later in the MkII the water is diverted to the cabin top. I believe on the 34 it's the same.
Nope. I have two slits on the sides of each wooden hatch holder. When I flush the channels, water comes out these slits. I had posted a photo years ago of this, haven't been able to find it, yet...
Found it:
http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,7191.msg54564.html#msg54564 (http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,7191.msg54564.html#msg54564)
Stu : That's the same stuff that I mentioned in the Handyman magazine post above!!
Quote from: Stu Jackson on August 13, 2017, 12:17:26 PM
Quote from: mholzmann on August 13, 2017, 12:02:22 PM
On the C36 92 and older water drains directly aft to the cockpit. In 93 and later in the MkII the water is diverted to the cabin top. I believe on the 34 it's the same.
Nope. I have two slits on the sides of each wooden hatch holder. When I flush the channels, water comes out these slits. I had posted a photo years ago of this, haven't been able to find it, yet...
Perfect! I hope you don't mind I have copied your pictures. It really helps explain where the strips go and how they work. The beauty is you don't have to take anything apart. Although eventually one should, LOL
Do you still have a set? What is the cost? I interested.
Thanks!
put mine in in less than five minutes this weekend. What a deal! slide and forget
Love it.
Hi Mark,
I finally had a chance to put the strips in my hatch glides. They slid in easily, no trimming required, and they seem to stay in place without any screws or adhesive. What a difference! Thanks so much.
Mike....
Yes, I agree! They work great! Thx!
Mark. I sent you $12 by pay pal. for the hatch strips. Send to Terry Forshier, 1750 Sandpiper St, Naples Fl 34102
Can someone tell me if this fix works on a newer 2003 MKII? My main issue isn't so much the noise but the fact that my hatch will stick and not want to open if it's cold outside and I have a heater running inside. Any kind of temperature variable locks down the hatch.
Hi Stucker! The strips do not work on the Mk II hatch system on the C36 and I have to assume its the same for the C34. :cry4` I am trying out some different ideas and will let you know if I have success
Not sure where to buy this stuff, but in manufacturing plants, the mechanics use teflon tape on the guide rails to minimize friction as product goes down the line. If you have access to a plant, maybe someone there knows where to get it or can give you several feet to try.
QuoteCan someone tell me if this fix works on a newer 2003 MKII?
I took the sea-hood off Shamrock and replaced the factory (peeling) Teflon tape with Teflon tape from Granger Supply. That was maybe 7 years ago and it still slides very easy and quiet. Was a simple but time consuming job. Mostly removing the old dried out sealer and some fine fitting of the sliding hatch. I did a search here and it looks like you can buy the tape from Catalina, think the tape from Granger was thicker. That's the way I did it. If your sliding hatch will lift up enough the strips would be much quicker to install.
Jim
Is this stuff too thick to fit the thin space?
http://realitycheck.me/squelching-the-screeching-hatch.htm
If you go to the website, it comes in various thicknesses, less than 0.060 if that's too thick.
http://www.eplastics.com/Plastic/slick_strips
Quote from: KWKloeber on April 17, 2018, 03:01:51 AM
Is this stuff too thick to fit the thin space?
http://realitycheck.me/squelching-the-screeching-hatch.htm
Just get my strips problem solved. You can buy your own 4 foot by 8 foot sheet of 1/16" HDPE plastic and cut a strip 1" x 72" there is not secret. I just have gone through the process of doing for the group. I have sold over 62 sets since I started last Summer. Not one dissatisfied customer. No adhesive back, no cleaning necessary just slide them in or take them out. It takes seconds. holzie at g mail dot com for more info
Thanks Mark, just received my strips, will put them on in a few weeks, my companionway cover squeaks a little, ( I tend to come into the boat a little late when people are sleeping) I know there are other ways to quiet it down, but, sometimes its easier and fun to buy stuff from members of this board that have researched it, and did the work for us at a reasonable cost. I have no doubt what you sent will work, and for 15 bucks, including shipping, I'm in..Thank You Mark, Bobg on Ghostrider
Hi Mark,
Just used your PayPal Link to order a set, hope you have a set left. They seem to be selling like hot cakes!
Thanks,
Paul
Hi Mark,
I see that you refunded my paypal account. This must mean that you don't have any more strips? Are you going to process another sheet? If not, where did you purchase the sheet? I still want to eliminate my screeching hatch.
Thanks,
Paul
There is a fly in the ointment. The strangest (and most frustrating) thing happened. Yesterday, my hatch didn't feel right opening and upon close observation it appeared my port side "new" glide strip was gone??!? Upon more exploration I discovered it wasn't "gone" but had it flipped 90 degrees to vertical and slid between the curve of the hatch and the hood. Can't imagine how or when this occurred... But, I have been fighting with all manner of homemade tools (including a stiff welding rod bent with a right angle hook sharp ground point) to stab it and pull it out, with no success. I am trying to avoid having to remove my highly varnished and bunged teak hatch hold down assembly... but may have to in order to retrieve the displaced plastic glide. I am going to try to remove the aft facing athwartship teak trim first, and see if it gives me enough clearance to I maneuver some super long needle nose pliers to grab it . The "message" in all of this is I recommend if you have these new plastic slider guides, put a screw in the aft end of each to ensure they can't flip out of the track and go vertical on you. I will keep you posted on my fight to rectify this weird turn of events. It's always something....
I have a new supply of Screech Free strips. Let me know if I can help solve your hatch screeching problems!!
Ok, Add me to the list of satisfied users of Mark's UHMV strips!
While out on the boat over the 4th, I cleaned up the track where the cabin top slide slides, I did not remove the sliding top!
Then I slid the strips forwards beneath the sliding top, drilled a hole about 3/4" from the aft end of the track, counter sunk the strip and put in a 5/16" SS screw.
Admiral is no longer a prisoner of the cabin if I'm away from the boat.
We can open the cabin top with just one finger! And NO SCREECHING! Just a smooth glide as the top opens.
THANK YOU MARK! One of the easiest, if not the easiest $15 project I have ever done on a boat.
Paul
Good on ya Paul for screwing them down. Here was my fix when my slide strip got displaced.
http://c34.org/bbs/index.php?topic=9920.0
I'd like to join the ranks of satisfied customers. Kindred Spirit , hull#55 deserves it.
Dave Comando
7015 Bridge Lane
Cutchogue, NY
11935
Pay Pal will be sent after I post this.
Thanks!
I agree with Noah, my starboard strip disappeared, finally got it out and it was shaped like a accordion, going have to screw it down, I don't think the hatch slide goes all the way to the closed end so not sure if it has to be countersunk.