Winter has it's good points. Have time to try to improve the boat without cutting into sailing time. One of the small projects for me was the alternator bracket. Although you can tighten the belt it is not the most convenient job to do.Searching the site came up with many ways and tools, all that can get the job done. My spin on it follows. Wanted to get rid of the sharp edge of the factory bracket and allow adjustment without special tools. This simple rod and two nuts allow me to adjust and lock in place the alternator with only a 9/16" wrench. works good on the bench but this weekend will mount on the boat and try :?
kh, the top section where your adjuster "lands" appears to be the same spot that the top bolt of the entire bracket bolts through to the engine. This would be the starboard top, when facing the engine would be the upper left toward the centerline of the boat and engine. How does that work?
Stu Not sure of your question, my adj rod only attaches to the two bolt holes that the original does. the ear on the alt and the bolt where the slot was.
Ah, good, I was wrong. I forgot the leg of the front piece sticks out further to starboard, but was not clear in the first picture, kinda hidden behind. Good idea, let us know how it goes.
kh,
Neat design. Bravo. Wondering..... had you checked the bolt diameters regarding mismatch to the bracket/alt foot, and also used a nut on the bolt on the alt end of the bracket, instead of relying on the aluminum threads?
Also wondering if it would be better to use nylocks and/or double-lock-nut the alt side of the adjusting threads?
Let us know how it works!!! And how easy to adjust when in place.
-ken
Will try to get this installed sunday but unable to run boat till spring arrives. Ken, bolts should be right snug fit Metric on alt, the two nuts will lock themselfs tight, we use this style adjuster on trucks with no problem. Yes, i will put a nut on the back of the alt ear bolt. The alt here was just for mockup and had to go back on the self. The rod is 3/8 ss tubing heavy wall, the threaded part is a 3/8 hardened truck spring center bolt welded on. Very stiff. we keep you informed.
kurt
Well put the bracket on today and adjusting was easy and worked well, but have to rework the pivot as the belt rubs. So back to the drawing board.
Kurt
Is it just the head?
How about countersinking your pivot and using a hex or torx drive flat-head bolt?
Ken
Ken that's my next move. Will try new pivot this weekend. I'll update then.
Hi,
nice work.
Made a new pivot with recessed bolt. Kinda ruins one wrench adjusting, but still easier just need an allen wrench. Will try to get to the boat this weekend to see if it will fit.
VERY cool. :clap :clap
kk
Installed the updated pivot. Look like it will work ok.
May take the bracket off and mill 3/16 off the face to give me a little more clearance.Hoping this works out as adjusting is easy and may cut down on the belt dust.
VERY cool!
It looks to me like the belt is riding way too low in the Alt pulley -- is that the right width?
I'd recommend you go with a Dayco - TOP COG belt. It will cut down on dist and run cooler!! It's the belt my Wb distributor recommended.
Ken
kh, it could just be the angle of the second photo, but you may have seen this about belt alignment from the 101 topic thread:
http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,7917.msg55162.html#msg55162
My 90 had a bad belt misalignment, I had to take the mount off that holds alternator cut it and put an offset in the bracket of about .250'' . it's nice not having all the rubber dust. There was no other way to correct the issue. Slotting the holes adding spacers were not achieving what it needed. I like this bracket for adjustment. How springy is it? is that hard drill rod or just low carbon steel rod?
Quote from: Indian Falls on November 24, 2016, 08:46:21 AM
My 90 had a bad belt misalignment, I had to take the mount off that holds alternator cut it and put an offset in the bracket of about .250'' . it's nice not having all the rubber dust. There was no other way to correct the issue. Slotting the holes adding spacers were not achieving what it needed. I like this bracket for adjustment. How springy is it? is that hard drill rod or just low carbon steel rod?
The threaded rod is a Truck spring bolt and the bent part is stainless steel tubing heavy wall. I have not run the engine, yet have to wait till spring. During fitting it seems like secure.
Finally got to the boat. Spring is here :clap
Installed new Bracket after machining it down to give the belt more room.
Hopefully this will help with belt slipping and changing.
Very nice job. Looks great, kudos.
Change into the recommended Dayco top cog belt will also cut down on heat where and dust
kh : From you picture (which may be misleading??) it looks like your alternator needs to be moved fwd.
Take a straight edge ruler and place it on the bottom pulley touching both side of the pulley. The other end of the straight edge should touch both sides (or lay flat) on the face of the alternator pulley.
You should look from above and the belt should be in a straight line.
Again your picture could be deceiving?
A thought
Kurt
A thought.... how about a steel tube on the threaded rod - under the pivot, to bring the lower nut down below the belt (just smidgen easier to access)? :idea:
Theoretically, if the lower not was locking, would you still need the upper nut? :?:
When do you go into manufacturing mode??? :wink:
Ken
Ron, the belt is straight my picture taking skill are off.
Ken, Thought about a sleeve but went with the keep it simple approach. The sleeve would catch on the threads and make loosening harder.
Besides the belt was in the way for the old setup and it was not really in the way now.
Thanks
kurt