I am considering adding a wheel autopilot to my C34. From what I read, the C34 is at the high end of the weight specs. I would be using it mostly for Puget Sound cruising. In perticular, has anyone installed the Raymarine EV-100 on a C34 and what were your results?
Mark, I installed an EV-200 below deck autopilot last summer. It replaced an older wheel autopilot. I am extremely pleased with the upgrade. Drop me an email if you would like to discuss in greater detail.
I installed one this past August. After 23 years of working, my Autohelm 4000 failed. It was an easy job to replace. Just plan it out and go. Simply replaced previous equipment with new EV-100 pieces all holes were used for new equipment. Hardest part was making a mounting area for the equipment below deck. It is all mounted behind the wood panel in the aft berth. I built a small wood shelf. Total installation was 9 hours from start to finish. This new technology is fantastic. Previously if I ended up within 10 degrees off my course I was happy. This new one is flawless and really performs. It took about two sails for the computer to figure out the boat, then is continues to improve. Good luck! You will love it!
Scott, thanks for that endorsement of the 200.
Wonegon:
I assume you are using the wheel drive. What hardware is installed below deck? How does the wheel drive perform in following seas?
Thanks
Mark,
The only hardware above deck is the wheel mount control and the main control pad. The network, gyro unit and brains of the unit are all mounted below deck behind the aft birth false bulkhead. What is nice about the system is the "plug and play" network which makes it easy to replace and install. Hardest part was getting the cable from the wheel back through the pedestal where the old cable went. The EV-100 is excellent under following seas. It was one of those times when we did not know just how poorly the previous unit was performing until it was replaced. The cool thing about the EV-100 is that is continues to get better and will most certainly keep you on course. Good luck!
Mark : I installed a NAVICO Wheel Pilot 25+ years ago and have always been satisfied.
Not even one "blip" in all those years!!
A thought
Hi Wobegon,
Glad to hear the EV-100 works so well. Thinking of doing this on my boat eventually as well.
Did you install the shelf on the hull, or on the 2x6's protecting the steering radial? For access do you have to remove the bulkhead or can you get to the axial sensor and cpu from the aft cockpit hatch?
Thanks. Jon W.
Jon,
I removed the bulkhead at the aft end of the aft berth to expose the water tank, etc. I mounted the brains (cpu) along the fiberglass wall on the starboard side that forms the hanging locker. I first glued a painted piece of 1/4 inch plywood on the fiberglass and screwed the main computer to the wood. I built a small shelf out of 1/4 plywood and installed the shell on the port side of the area beside the water tank and up along the hull. I put the gyro and the network cables, as well as an additional 12 volt fuse bar on the shelf area. I reused the 12 volt lines coming from the main electrical panel. The control panel is mounted in the cockpit just to the left of the engine control panel. The new one simply fit into the hole for the old one...with some minor modification. The wheel mount was easy, as all the holes drilled, etc. were in the correct places from the previous wheel mount. Running the cable down through the pedestal guard was the hardest part, but worked. My previous unit was a 23 year old AutoHelm 4000.
Again, one of the best upgrades I have done to the board. The display is unbelievable and the various program settings you can do gives lots of flexibility. I have a couple of pictures, but they are two big to post. Good luck!
Thanks for the details, I think I'll take the same approach. My current system is an AutoHelm 4000 also. The display is shot and overall it's seen it's day.
Merry Christmas.
Jon W.
Hi Jon,
I have an old 4000 as well and need a few spare parts. In particular the clutch lever and cam, but I would like the whole unit if possible. Let me know what you would want for it.
Thanks,
Paul
I have my hands full at the moment so it'll be a while before I start the autohelm project.
Jon W.
I am planning to install an EV-100 wheel pilot. Can't afford a below deck AP at this time and my 4000+ deviates wildly. I would appreciate feedback from anyone who has installed an EV-100 on their C34. Are you happy with its performance? What's been your good and/or bad experience with it? Do you have install tips or pictures of the install? Did you install a rudder reference sensor?
Woebegon: Are you still happy with your EV-100?
Jon: Did you ever install an EV-100?
The EV-100 works awesome for motoring, and sailing in less than 15 knots with less than 3ft waves. Beyond that it struggles.
I haven't installed a wheel pilot yet. I'm considering a CPT autopilot instead of the EV-100. Simpler device (course heading only), reliable, with more than triple the torque (116Nm vs 30Nm) of the EV-100.
i would not upgrade to an ev-100 from that, the CPT appears to also be a wheel driven pilot. Word on the street is some of the older wheel pilots were better, the ev-100 is better for maybe a 28 foot boat.
Yes the CPT is a wheel pilot. Very good reputation from skippers on boats such as WestSail 42.
I just bought an EV-100 wheel pilot from Defender. Raymarine has a rebate and the old style (I was assured the change was only cosmetic) is discounted. My st4000+ was just getting worse. Especially after running for a while. I really wish a below deck drive would fit, but don't think it would fit with the water tank in. Even if I could have found a way to put it in with the tank it would have been so hard to get to in case of a problem wouldn't have done it.
Jim
If you see Noah's install the tiller arm goes 10" aft of the rudder post so the aft water tank has nothing to do with it. i removed my aft water tank the other day it took 30 minutes.
attaching photo (excuse my hippie friend)
I think the Ray components are great and it actually takes my wind and SOG data from my B&G network (I cut off the Ray NM200 plug and installed a normal one to integrate it into my nmea 2000 backbone) and the AP will steer to wind and waypoints. You are going to be unhappy with the wheel driven plastic grey disc that installs on the steering wheel. In 15 knots + and 3 foot waves it starts to struggle hard. 25 knots and 7ft waves you are hand steering for the whole passage. Motoring in flat water and light sailing its fine.
The primary reason for that is the max torque the EV-100 can generate is 30Nm (~22 ft lbs), and is designed for boats under 16,500lb. My boat weighed 15,500lb without cruising provisions or full tanks.
CPT generates 116Nm (85 ft lb) torque and is used successfully on Tayana, WestSail, Hans Christian 40,000lb plus boats. It can be immersed in water unlike the EV-100. Important if you get pooped.
it's unfortunate these older more robust wheel pilots are no longer available. so much easier to install...
That said, the Ray1 i am installing puts out 750lb.
CPT is still available and probably what I will be installing.
Hopefully it won't snap your spade rudder.
Wow that is concerning. Is there a possibility of an autopilot snapping a rudder?
CPT - I do see they are still selling. Please let me know about the performance, good intel as i have a few other friends looking for AP's and i guess we all thought the only wheel version was the EV-100.
I have read about it happening on spade rudders, but not on a Catalina, and not as if it's a frequent occurrence. I would talk to the tech rep from Raymarine. These are 30 year old boats after all.
I'll be installing this year, but not sure when.
I am going the same route as Jim. I bought the EV-100 from Defender and will install myself. For just over $1k I'll have an AP that ties into my Raymarine instruments and does what I need 95% of the time. Sailing in 25 knot winds a 7 foot seas is rare for me. Don't know when I'll have ~$5k for a below deck AP so this is the plan.
Now I just need to figure out where to install the EV-1 sensor core (compass) and the ACU 100 (brains). If anyone has a good install plan for placing these components please reply. Photo of an actual install would be very helpful as well.
Quote from: ChrisOB on March 10, 2017, 09:49:00 PM
I think the Ray components are great and it actually takes my wind and SOG data from my B&G network (I cut off the Ray NM200 plug and installed a normal one to integrate it into my nmea 2000 backbone) and the AP will steer to wind and waypoints. You are going to be unhappy with the wheel driven plastic grey disc that installs on the steering wheel. In 15 knots + and 3 foot waves it starts to struggle hard. 25 knots and 7ft waves you are hand steering for the whole passage. Motoring in flat water and light sailing its fine.
Who in their right mind would be using an autopilot in 25knt wind and 7 foot seas with a 34 ft boat?
Wheel pilot has worked just fine for me but I'm not doing any blue water sailing.
Quote from: Rortega46 on March 11, 2017, 07:39:37 AM
I am going the same route as Jim. I bought the EV-100 from Defender and will install myself. For just over $1k I'll have an AP that ties into my Raymarine instruments and does what I need 95% of the time. Sailing in 25 knot winds a 7 foot seas is rare for me. Don't know when I'll have ~$5k for a below deck AP so this is the plan.
Now I just need to figure out where to install the EV-1 sensor core (compass) and the ACU 100 (brains). If anyone has a good install plan for placing these components please reply. Photo of an actual install would be very helpful as well.
I installed the EV-1 core behind the aft bulkhead on the port side of the wood 2x4 next to steering column. ACU 100 on the opposite 2x4 on the starboard side. Leave the bulkhead off until you are confident things are working right. I glued a plywood panel behind the aft bulkhead and attached a + and - bus to and attached all wires. My Edson steering column is aluminum so no issue with magnetic interference. Pics if I can find them.
Mark
Your install sounds like a fairly simple setup. I'll remove the bulkhead and take a look. Please post pics if you can.
Here are some pics.
Mark:
Thanks for posting the pics. I removed the rear bulkhead in the rear stateroom and my MKII looks completely different from your MKI. Regardless, I don't see anywhere behind the bulkhead to install the ACU and/or EV-1 sensor core.
If anyone has installed an EV-100 on a MKII please share install tips and the location of the components.
Just a final note on this subject....
The EV-100 was installed on the port panel in front of the fresh water tank in the rear stateroom. The install went as planned once I figured out the ACU needed a dedicated 12v connection.
Initial performance looks good but there is still minimal hunting. I may consider installing a rudder reference sensor in the future but want a few months of experience and adjusting settings before doing so.
Mark,
Thanks for all the info and pictures. I just purchased the ev-100 also. I think I can install pretty much like you did. You mentioned the ACU-100 being on the starboard 2x4, but don't see it in pictures. Next problem I have is the location of the p70 controller. Where did you put it? Did you have to buy another cable as kit only has 3' spur (white cable) and 16' backbone. I'm assuming 3' spur was not long enough. The book shows a typical/basic system diagram where they use the backbone cable to have the ACU-100 further away. I guess keeping ACU-100, EV-1 closer together, I can use the backbone cable for the p70. If you have the p70 on pedestal, did you have concern about distance from compass as indicated in manuals?
Thanks,
Pierre
Quote from: pjcomeau on April 09, 2017, 06:38:18 AM
Mark,
Thanks for all the info and pictures. I just purchased the ev-100 also. I think I can install pretty much like you did. You mentioned the ACU-100 being on the starboard 2x4, but don't see it in pictures.
Pierre:
The ACU-100 is that grey thing in the 3rd picture.
Quote from: pjcomeau on April 09, 2017, 06:38:18 AM
Next problem I have is the location of the p70 controller. Where did you put it? Did you have to buy another cable as kit only has 3' spur (white cable) and 16' backbone. I'm assuming 3' spur was not long enough. The book shows a typical/basic system diagram where they use the backbone cable to have the ACU-100 further away. I guess keeping ACU-100, EV-1 closer together, I can use the backbone cable for the p70. If you have the p70 on pedestal, did you have concern about distance from compass as indicated in manuals?
The P70 is connected to an E7D MFD inside a Navpod on a new single bend pedestal guard. The E7D Seatalk cable and power cables run down the pedestal guard starboard rail to the Seatalk backbone connection below deck on the new bus board. As I recall I bought an extra cable to connect the E7D through the pedestal guard to the backbone connection below deck. I was concerned with interference from the compass but others have commented they haven't had issues so I took the chance. I'm probably about 2 feet away from the compass which is less than the recommended 3 feet but I calibrated fine the first time. Raymarine updates their software from time to time and the calibration readings change when they do so but they tell me I'm fine.
Just finished a trip from NY to Bahamas, and in reply to the gent who questioned taking the boat out in big waves and 25knot winds, she is amazing. It was a ton of work to engineer the shelf to mount the raymarine type 1 linear drive into the MK1, but on those 150NM passages off the Carolina coast I was damn happy to have it. Also the big passage to Eleuthera from Abaco, in 13,000 ft depth and no coast guard to help you. Cat34 is an amazing boat, go places!