The cheap plastic push button switch/breaker for the AC hotwater heater is broken inside the switch itself. It pulls right out. Short of the main AC switch there is no way to turn it off! I realize I have to replace it and the other identical switch used for accessories. How ever I have just recently bought the boat and this project is further down the list. I just wondered if there was a quick and easy way of activating the switch manually in the mean time.
Ps I plan to replace it with a new gang of switches that act as breakers as well. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Do I have enough wire to work with behind the panel?
Thanks,
Mark Wey
Check my reply of April 30 on "Seaward Engine Panel Replacement". I responed about the AC/DC panel in error. My reason to replace started same way, water heater would not cut off due to stuck breaker. I would highly consider replaceing complete panel. The rest of those breakers are crap. I killed AC and disconnected wiring on panel for heater during interum, capped and taped wires. I would not recommed doing much else - AC with a lot amps is deadly! And could cause short that destroys your boat. Seaward responded very quickly - had panel in less than two weeks - one day to pull old one and install new. No problems since
Jim
You are right! I thought about it and after looking at the existing panel I decided to go for it. I ordered a new AC/DC panel from Seaward Products. I ordered one off the shelf for $335 plus shipping. Not a bad investment I think. Is there any other advice you can give me regarding making the switch. It seems straight forward but I am open to ideas.
Thanks,
Mark
:)Not really, it is straight forward if you lable EVERYTHING as you take out old panel. I had every hole in the new panel populated with breakers. Actually have two DC (50A & 20A)left over. Remember my comments about the windless breaker, the panel does not take that size breaker any longer as all the new boats have a separate breaker for that. I think 50A is as large as the panel supports. My windless takes a 90A. I also replaced the breaker on the AC side for the battery charger with RED toggle - makes it very evident if this one is ever closed by accident. And I saved the old Perko switch for a backup (or yard sale). I actually love the idiot lights now for DC service, Gas valve, and bilge pump. Also, the two volt meters work now.