I've been using Mobil 1 synthetic 30W or 10W30 for years in my Universal M35, but when I went to buy some today, I saw it no longer carries the diesel API rating. So after poking around the Mobil web site for awhile, I finally found a chart showing the API ratings of all of their oils. The only one which carries the current API diesel rating (CJ-4) is Mobil 1™ Turbo Diesel Truck, offered in 5W40 only. My engine manual specifies (SAE) 30 HD. (CD) or 10W40). The CD rating is long obsolete, and I assume the CJ-4 covers it.
So I'm searching for a new oil. Thought I'd put the question out here before looking further. Any suggestions?
Thanks!!
Quote from: Bob K on November 10, 2014, 05:37:03 PM
I've been using Mobil 1 synthetic 30W or 10W30 for years in my Universal M35, but when I went to buy some today, I saw it no longer carries the diesel API rating. So after poking around the Mobil web site for awhile, I finally found a chart showing the API ratings of all of their oils. The only one which carries the current API diesel rating (CJ-4) is Mobil 1™ Turbo Diesel Truck, offered in 5W40 only. My engine manual specifies (SAE) 30 HD. (CD) or 10W40). The CD rating is long obsolete, and I assume the CJ-4 covers it.
So I'm searching for a new oil. Thought I'd put the question out here before looking further. Any suggestions?
Thanks!!
Yes, higher ratings (e.g., C"J" vs C"D") are ok
But I guess the next question is why a synthetic?
Synthetics are for extended service intervals - I ass/u/me yo change the oil seasonally and a whole lot fewer "miles" than synthetics deliver. It's money down the the waste oil barrel.
Ken
I have been very happy with the performance of Rotella for the past 14 years.
Shell Rotella 15W40 for me.
Synthetics have also been reported to eat seals and gaskets on older engines.
Tell ya what: do some homework. You do a search on this and any other boating forum, use the term "synthetic oil" with the " " marks to get the exact phrase, and you will be able to read for weeks. Really.
I used synthetic for a year or so, stopped 'cuz the oil pan seal started showing signs of not being happy.
Dino oil works just fine, and it's less expensive. Follow the engine manufacturer's recommendations, avoid synthetic oil in older engines 'cuz those engines were made before synthetics were invented.
Why buy something MORE expensive when it's NOT required and could (that's could) do harm?
That's the short answer. Up to you to find the longer one if you so choose.
This is the 15W40 heavy duty diesel oil we use in the Yanmar engine in our C387:
http://www.shell.com/rotella/products/tpl-pro.html
Both truck drivers and marina service managers have recommended Shell Rotella products.
Bob : Pick up the telephone and call Mobile (their number is on the Mobile 1 oil jug) and ask them your question.
I asked the same question, but I asked the manufacturer - NOT a blog!!
Mobile engineering told me that they had not change the formulary of Mobile 1 10W30 and it still works with a diesel engine. They also mentioned that the difference between a "C" and an "S" rating is the additives that suspend the carbon particularents in the oil.
A few thoughts
Stu, I took your advice and searched Sailnet....I found a recent "synthetic vs. conventional" thread with enough facts, opinions, declarations, and temperament to rival the best of the anchor threads. Anyway, after that and a little more reading, I'm convinced to go non-synthetic. Why did I start using synthetic? The PO used and recommended Mobil 1 to me, and I never questioned it.
So Rotella it is, and with the few $ savings, I can buy a better beer, and muse about more interesting things.
Thanks all for your inputs.
We use Rotella T 15w40 in our M-25XPB.
I also use Rotella, but I add Lucas heavy duty oil stabilizer. 20% as they recommend. I think that it helps with lubrication at start up. Sometimes weeks or months pass with out the engine being started.
http://lucasoil.com/products/engine-oil-additives/lucas-heavy-duty-oil-stabilizer
Jim
Quote from: Jim Hardesty on November 18, 2014, 08:27:29 AM
I also use Rotella, but I add Lucas heavy duty oil stabilizer. 20% as they recommend. I think that it helps with lubrication at start up. Sometimes weeks or months pass with out the engine being started.
http://lucasoil.com/products/engine-oil-additives/lucas-heavy-duty-oil-stabilizer
Jim
They make no mention of what chemical additives their product contains?
From the printing on Lucas bottle "100% petroleum". On a stick on label "contains no teflon no sulphur no chlorine". Lucas isn't exotic, I think every auto parts store has Lucas. When Lucas first came out they put up hands-on displays with little gears and cranks with more information ie sales pitch. Don't know if they still do.
I'm not trying to sell it. Adding it to my oil is one of the thing that I think can't hurt and I think helps. One of my reasons for my original reply was to see if some one with more experience/expertice than me had any problems with Lucas.
Jim
Bob : The PO was an engineer that worked for Mobile Oil, if you already didn't know that!
Beside calling Mobile oil on a oil question, I'm surprised that no one has mentioned calling Westerbeke Customer service on your question. (508)823-7677 Joe Joyce X234
Try the obvious - a thought
I have been following this discussion, but now will add my $0.02. I use synthetic Rotella. The reason I have been using synthetic is that I change the oil when I put it to bed for the winter. I don't change the oil in the spring. Also, we never are able to get all of the oil out during a change so some of it is in there for a long time. FWIW-I have been told that synthetic is stable for longer periods of time.
Bob : It appears strange that after all of these years that your engine was on Mobile 1(a synthetic oil) that you would change to another oil so you could move up from Milwaukee's Best to PBR !?!
Also any thought of going off of a synthetic should be thought about when all of the newer auto manufactures are all going to synthetic oils!!
Tis your engine - A few thoughts
My baby is hull 854 so not the youngest girl at the ball. I use, as recommended, synthetic in my TDI car but chose to remain with a proven conventional oil in my M25XP by sticking with Rotella-T 15W-40W. I may be a little strange but even at todays prices I believe oil is the cheapest protection for your engine. I target changing at 25-hrs which translates to a change midway through the 5-day boating season here in Wisconsin. (Joke) I also change just prior to winter layup. I believe it best to minimize any acids, etc in the oil system that remain there over the winter.
I also use PowerUp NNL-690 Oil Fortifier with every oil change. I can speak from my own experience as PowerUp 690 eliminated a severe shifting problem in my 1998 Saturn SL2 I use PowerUp in every internal combustion engine, both 2 & 4 cycle as well as every gearbox, transmission.
I'm not here to sell it but for those that like to see testing results http://www.powerupusa.net/index.php/tests/effect-of-power-up-nnl-690-oil-fortifier-on-lube-oil-anti-wear-characteristics (http://www.powerupusa.net/index.php/tests/effect-of-power-up-nnl-690-oil-fortifier-on-lube-oil-anti-wear-characteristics)
Steve
Steve : You might also look at an oil additive called "Militec-1". Great stuff
A thought