My likely original water heater died this summer-found out first day of cruise when the entire aft fresh water tank leaked into the bilge. I'm looking to replace with the Seaward 6 gallon version, currently on sale at Defender for $229. Also, the old platform the heater rests on has been loose for a couple of years such that I can move the heater port-starboard about 2-3" so this will need to be replaced. Has anybody done this before? I'd be interested in guidance as far as what I need for a new platform, what I'm likely to encounter, how it gets attached and to what since it supports a fairly heavy water-filled heater in potentially rough seas/big heel angles. Having it shift while underway can't be good. Thanks.
Brian McPhillips
Did this exactly as described last year.(1990 model) Only minor issue is you have to remove the access door. The Seaward unit was almost an exact replacement. Only thing was the mounting holes were slightly different, I think I had to redrill two holes. Make sure you get the correct unit since Seaward make them with front or rear connections for the engine coolant.
My mounting platform was also loose, but still in good condition. It was only bonded to the hull, so I cleaned the mounting location and rebonded with 3M 5200. Seems to be holding up well.
Good Luck.
We did exactly the same project last summer, including resecuring the base with some 5200. The most challenging parts of the project were getting the correct model and getting a flush fit when replace the access door frame and door. Good luck, make absolutely sure you order the correct model and that they ship the correct model....we ordered correctly but were sent the wrong one....delayed us for a couple of weeks. Hope this is of help.
lt sounds like a recurring theme, loose platform. My heater rusted out and was leaking in June of 98 and the platform was loose. I resanded, repainted and reepoxyed it and replaced the heater with a Kuuma 6 Gal. heater and everything has been fine since. I guess the platform needs to checked every so often to make sure it hasn't broken loose from the hull.
Brian : The advice on type heater is sound.
I'd recommend that on the platform you either use epoxy or glass resin and mat to resecure it to the hull.
Agree with Ron...use epoxy or glass resin and mat rather than 5200...have not use 5200, but everything I hear is that it is permanent...done deal, no second chances.
For what it's worth regarding my previous post, I did our upgrade in 08, not 98. It's hell getting old and forgetfull.
Same for me.
I took the opportunity with access to under the aft part of the inner liner, to degrease, and powerwash as far back as I could (all the way to the muffler and starboard vertical member), then cleaned with acetone and painted with Bilgecoat as far as I could (much less of course, maybe 6"). A number of steps like this have given me a very clean and easy to keep clean hull resulting in very little boat-smell.
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Same situation with the supports. I had the foamy epoxy type stuff originally used remaining so I just had to fabricate new pressure treated wood supports and used cloth and epoxy to re-secure them along the sides and onto the hull. (not sure if you can see in the image, but I left some parts without new bilgecoat so the epoxy could bond better with the old stuff). Glassed in image is at the end.
"While I was at it" I also relocated my water pressure pump to a smaller shelf I made and installed under the current one which I modified for access. By moving it and the valves (they went forward) I gained a great little shelf for a rubbermaid container.
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Steve : Some very nice pictures!! Great Job !!
Steve: Very nice looking, clean bilge. Wish mine was that clean & dry.
Larry
Thanks guys, I had some time while I was doing my deck repair last year. Unfortunately my bilge isn't normally that dry; teflon packing gland and a few weeping keel bolts. But it is easy to keep clean with that Bilgecoat on there.