Catalina 34

General Activities => Main Message Board => Topic started by: Stu Jackson on July 07, 2009, 08:30:46 AM

Title: CRITICAL UPGRADES - DO THESE OR ELSE!!!
Post by: Stu Jackson on July 07, 2009, 08:30:46 AM
DO THESE THINGS OR ELSE!!!

In a recent post, Walt suggested a "Critical Upgrades" wiki.  Paul also suggested adding the "Do These Or Else!!!" idea.  I don't know how many of you read the wiki on a regular basis as compared to "coming here" to this MB.  I've always felt that the wiki, while interactive, is more of an information depository, so we've created this topic here.

1,  The traveler bolt update really only applies to the 1986 and some 1987 C34s.  All subsequent production have those bolts.
 
2.  Here's another critical "early model upgrade" -- There are probably still some 1986 C34 owners out there that still have the "over the top" alternator adjusting bracket (M25 engine - about 275 hulls) that can and will break!!  This broken bracket has been known to puncture the oil filter!!  As one of this message board's frequent contributors can attest to!!

3.  Now if we can only get ALL of the almost 1100 hulls (1986-1991) to install the Wiring Harness Upgrade (Fire Hazard - BIG TIME) !! 


Links:

1. Traveler bolts  - http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5071.0.html  Here's what happens when you don't:  http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,9460.0.html

2. Alternator bracket - http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=M-25_Alternator_Mount_Conversion_Kit_%22B/M_256891%22  Once you do this, you'll need to BURP the freshwater coolant, here's how, Reply #6:  http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,4518.0.html (http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,4518.0.html)

3. Wiring Harness & FIRE Hazard - http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,4546.0.html  [Ammeters and shunts are discussed here: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6032.0.html (http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6032.0.html)

For a step-by-step see Replies #11 & 12, here:::: 

http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6223.0.html (http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6223.0.html)

If you read the engine information on the WIKI you'll find a LOT of this material. Here: http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Diesel_Engine (http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Diesel_Engine)  FIND and READ the original Seaward/Catalina Gerry Douglas article there.  See Reply #21 on page 2 of this topic also.

So now we've produced all the different items and ways to find information I mentioned in the traveler bolts topic and have added this "critical upgrades" list.  If there's anything else we can do, please let me know.

As a reminder, I noted in the traveler bolt topic this: "Steve Lyle's "My First Year Weblog" covers many important issues for owners of older boats, and is almost a checklist of what to look out for that may require immediate upgrades if the PO or POs did not perform that work.  See: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,663.0.html."  Do a search on the word "weblog" --  there's lots of very good information that has been contributed.

Many of us feel that a quality electrical system is also a safety item, and you can read lots about that issue.

Please feel free to ADD to this list, we'll keep it a sticky.

There are multiple pages in this topic.  PLEASE read them ALL.  Thanks.
Title: Re: CRITICAL UPGRADES
Post by: Stu Jackson on July 07, 2009, 10:16:59 AM
Here's another one: 

Hot water heater hose replacement
UNDER THE GALLEY SOLE
 

If your hoses wear out, you lose ALL engine coolant, and your engine will pack it in.  Really!!!

http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,3769.0.html

We also need to ask ourselves the question:  What is "routine maintenance" and what is "critical'?

Oil and transmission fluid changes?  for example...just sayin'
Title: Re: CRITICAL UPGRADES
Post by: Stu Jackson on July 07, 2009, 10:31:17 AM
Another example:

exhaust riser replacement

A link with photos of the new riser for a 1986 boat and the original Catalina Yachts engineering diagram of that riser.  Please note that Mark II boats have a different riser configuration.

http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5989.0.html (http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5989.0.html)
Title: Re: CRITICAL UPGRADES
Post by: MarkT on July 07, 2009, 03:26:50 PM
Having recently bought a Mk1 boat I'm becoming intimately aware of these deficiencies on older boats. I think the focus needs to be on the issues that a surveyor will miss because he is not a specialist on the Catalina 34. I'm reading this thread and thinking check done that on the heater hose replacement, check yes I have the newer design alternator bracket. Upgraded wiring harness - no ; I will order it today.

I just hope there isn't something hiding that I don't know about yet because after three months I'm starting to gain some confidence in the boat. Lots of leaks to chase down but I'm very happy with the package.

Title: Re: CRITICAL UPGRADES
Post by: Stu Jackson on July 07, 2009, 04:08:48 PM
I just hope there isn't something hiding that I don't know about yet because after three months I'm starting to gain some confidence in the boat.

Mark, welcome.  "Something hiding?"  Yes, it's a boat! :D  More seriously, though, we have done our best to be able to provide you and others with everything we've found so far.  There will always be something new.  The way you put your message is that you have reviewed what we've provided.  You wrote: "I think the focus needs to be on the issues that a surveyor will miss because he is not a specialist on the Catalina 34."  

What I did was spend over a year looking for a C34, and I provided my surveyor with as much C34 website documents that were available way back in 1998 for our then-twelve year old boat.  The surveyor asked me for a copy of the material!  However, not everyone reviews this website before they buy a C34, many find it only later.  You want focus?  Whose focus?  Again, I suggest reading Steve Lyle's First Year Weblog (http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,663.0.html (http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,663.0.html)), which discusses exactly what you mention, and which is very important.  But remember, we can't control the quality of surveyors, and we can't make prospective buyers read this website, either.  We also can't "make" C34 owners find this website or even read or fully appreciate its depth after they've bought their boats.  We appreciate everyone who visits and contributes here.

And there's nothing specifically different on a C34 than any other boat as far as a QUALIFIED surveyor's concerned:  engine, electrical, rigging.  In fact, the C30 and C36 systems are very similar, if not identical  The traveler bolts were a C30 issue, too, not just C34s. The traveler bolt issue was first written up by Jim Moe, our former C34 Association Editor and the owner of both a C30 and C34.  The wiring harness applies to all Catalinas within a certain age range, and many other boat builders as well.  Not only were the trailer wiring plugs prone to disintegration, but the whole "ammeter in the cockpit" electrical design was nuts.  Having the alternator output go to the 1-2-B switch was also a cost conscious move, not an electrical design one.   And the Universal diesels with alternator bracket issues were installed on lotsa Ericsons among others, too.  I helped fix a friend's M25, he was on my dock, and altered another friend by email when I learned he had this engine in his new-to-him boat.  They were BOTH Ericson 32s, NOT Catalinas.

It appears to me that the issue is NOT specific to Catalina 34s, but rather having surveyors who are qualified AND UP TO DATE on issues with boat systems, because the issues we have found in our C34s exist in other boats, too.

If you're "searching" for stuff to "worry about" why not read the Tech Notes Index?  Or the Knowledgebase?  Their "Table of Contents" approach may identify issues you may not yet be aware of, I don't know what you've read, but you certainly do.  Reading the WIKI index is also helpful.  Heck, I bet eventually you'll get into upgrade projects once you "settle in" on your new boat. :D

Glad you like the "package" and look forward to learning what else you may find and seeing you here.
Title: Re: CRITICAL UPGRADES
Post by: Stu Jackson on July 09, 2009, 11:42:16 AM
I received this from Joe Torzsok, #77, Dreamcatcher, Toronto, CA the other day:

I was trying to order the alternator mount conversion kit and the dealer here said it was discontinued by Universal / no longer available.  I've read this is a recommended project - so makes me wonder why...

I replied:

YIKES!!!  If you have an M25 and you haven't done it yet, then find one from www.marinedieseldirect.com.  That is disturbing news.  Makes you wonder why?  Easy --- business: people stopped ordering 'em, they figured they'd made enough of 'em for the engine quantity they produced.  But there are still folks out there who haven't....

Please remember, this is NOT a C34 "defect" or deficiency" because Universal made these M25 engines that were put into many, many different manufacturer's boats.

Also, try Catalina Direct for a source for these brackets.
Title: Re: CRITICAL UPGRADES - DO THIS OR ELSE!!!
Post by: Stu Jackson on July 10, 2009, 10:18:09 AM
ENGINE SERVICE BULLETINS

YOU'D BE REALLY DUMB TO NOT CHECK THESE

AND THEN ACTUALLY DO THEM


And here's a good reason WHY:  http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6017.0.html (http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6017.0.html)  Sorry to hear about Dave's misfortune.  [Added 11/25/10]

Do a search on the word "bulletins" and find information on Westerbeke engine issues for the M35 engines.  There are many topics on this issue that you should know about and read.

Also look around the Westerbeke/Universal engine website, here:

http://www.westerbeke.com/Products/InstallationManual.aspx?ID=7 (http://www.westerbeke.com/Products/InstallationManual.aspx?ID=7)

[9/18/16]  WB modified their website and screwed it up.  See page 4 of this thread for more info.
Title: Re: CRITICAL UPGRADES - DO THIS OR ELSE!!!
Post by: Stu Jackson on July 10, 2009, 10:22:30 AM
Disclaimer Time:  Just to be very clear, please read the disclaimer included on many pages of this volunteer organization's website:

Important: The opinions expressed here are those of the individual contributors to this page, and not those of the Catalina 34 International Association or Catalina Yachts, Inc. Additionally, this material has not been reviewed by Catalina Yachts, Inc. for technical accuracy. This page's maintainer cannot guarantee the accuracy of this information or the desirability of suggested modifications or upgrades. Please obtain assistance from a competent marine mechanic or boatyard prior to making any significant modifications to your vessel.

This applies to this message board, too. 

We are not claiming that the suggestions included on this topic covers everything that might break on your boat! 
Title: Re: CRITICAL UPGRADES - DO THIS OR ELSE!!!
Post by: Stu Jackson on July 10, 2009, 01:59:14 PM
Edson Throttle and Gear Shift levers

Replace the plastic ones before they break at the worst possible time.

Skippers have reported that the throttle shift lever may cause a problem because of a conflict with the binnacle.  Didn't happen on my boat.

Here's a more recent discussion of this topic:  http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,4312.0.html (http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,4312.0.html)
Title: Re: CRITICAL UPGRADES - DO THESE OR ELSE!!!
Post by: Ron Hill on July 14, 2009, 06:02:04 PM
Guys : I agree with Stu and someone needs to separate the CRITICAL updates from the LESS Critical and the routine maintenance.  Routine has no place here!!
 
Water heater hose like any other hoses - to me are routine
Hump hose saves the muffler inlet, but is not critical
Steering Idler Pins early C34 bronze ones should be replaced by stainless pins - critical if worn though - inspection warranted - inspection CRITICAL !!
M35 engine raw water sleeves, gussets on engine mounts & fuel filter brackets - critical
Exhaust Riser needs to be watched and replaced when it fails in about 10yrs - not critical
Traveler thru Bolts for the 1986 C34s Traveler 1987 and later C34 have this thru bolt!! - critical

I'd recommend that this site be edited by the web master so only critical items are allowed to be posted.  Or otherwise a bunch of personal experiences will overflow into this important topic.  A thought
Title: Re: CRITICAL UPGRADES - DO THESE OR ELSE!!!
Post by: Stu Jackson on July 16, 2009, 10:45:30 AM
Routine has no place here!!
 
Water heater hose like any other hoses - to me are routine

Steering Idler Pins early C34 bronze ones should be replaced by stainless pins - critical if worn thru - inspection warrented !!

M35 engine raw water sleeves, gossets on engine mounts & fuel filter brackets - critical

I'd recommend that this site be edited by the web master so only critical items are allowed to be posted.  Or otherwise a bunch of personal experiences will overflow into this important topic. 

I agree routine has no place here, 'ceptin' that you and I may beg to differ on some issues.  The heater hose I referred to is the one UNDER THE GALLEY SOLE which most folks forget completely about.  Since loss of coolant and engine failure result immediately, I think it's kinda critical.  The M35 engine gussets and brackets were covered in my suggestion to do a search on the word "bulletins" which cover those issues.

The webmaster, no more than any of us, is not, nor should anyone be, in a position to edit these items.  And, since this particular topic was posted a few weeks ago at the suggestion of a few registrants, other than you and me (plus Mark's question), we haven't seen anyone add to it! :D
Title: Re: CRITICAL UPGRADES - DO THESE OR ELSE!!!
Post by: Stu Jackson on July 23, 2009, 11:31:39 AM
Check the raw water pump for weeping

(see: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5073.0.html)

While not technically an upgrade, and could be considered rather more of a maintenance item, it is something that is sometimes "out of sight, out of mind" and requires vigilance.

Added 9/21/09:  here's a weep hole on an Oberdorfer rw pump:
Title: Re: CRITICAL UPGRADES - DO THESE OR ELSE!!!
Post by: Ken Juul on July 27, 2009, 12:41:10 PM
A critical upgrades section has been added to the wiki
Title: Re: CRITICAL UPGRADES - DO THESE OR ELSE!!!
Post by: Stu Jackson on July 30, 2009, 04:17:50 PM
CAREFUL ENGINE INSPECTION

see: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5127.0.html

and here's another reason

http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,7398.0.html

and here's yet another reason

http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,8018.0.html
Title: Re: CRITICAL UPGRADES - DO THESE OR ELSE!!!
Post by: Ron Hill on August 18, 2009, 05:45:58 PM
If you haven't done it  -- remove the filtering screen on the fuel pick up hose/tube that is in the bottom of the fuel tank!!  It will clog and cause the engine to stop (fuel starvation)!!  These screens were installed in all of the 1986/87/88/89&90 boats and some of the 1991 C34s.  If you have a 1991 or 1992 boat it's best to check - just in case.
The hard tube is short from the bottom by approx 3". Attached to the end of the hard tube is a 3 to 4" rubber hose, so it will bend and lay on the bottom to suck in fuel from the very bottom of the tank.  The screen is in the end of the rubber hose.  Careful as you might dislodge the hose off the hard tube removing it!! 

You have a Racor and engine fuel filters to filter out the particles.  This has been written up in the Mainsheet tech note many times. 

Added to the Critical upgrade wiki. Ken Juul

Added Stu 8/20/2013:  Thanks to Chuck Parker, a C36 skipper, who wrote:

A consideration in running the tank down low, the first time I took the pickup tube out (when I took the tank out to clean it) I found that someone had obviously taken it out before me. The tube is a hard tube about half way down, then a soft rubber tube that slides over the tip- of the hard tube. This extends down near the bottom, at least in my tank. The filter screen some have on the end of the tube that everyone recommends be taken off was gone..

What happened is they obviously tried to take the tube out by pulling it up thru the little cover plate. The lower tube wont fit thru this hole however, and when they pulled the tube up, the hard tube came out but they pulled the bottom half off, dropping it into the bottom of the tank. They probably never realized they did this, but the bottom line was I was only drawing fuel from the top half of the tank or maybe the top 2/3rds. If I had hit sloppy seas, I could easily have sucked air and stalled out.

To really take the pickup out you have to remove the whole plate and tube fastener.
__________________
Chuck Parker
HelenRita 2072
Atlantic Highlands, NJ


If you DO take the filter screen off, take the advice given by one of our skippers:  make a NOTE of it on the side of the tank!   :D
Title: Re: CRITICAL UPGRADES - DO THESE OR ELSE!!!
Post by: Stu Jackson on September 21, 2009, 09:38:53 AM
Replace the fuse holder from the start button to the starter solenoid

Here's two of the many posts on this issue with pictures:  http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,4556.0.html (http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,4556.0.html)  and http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,1637.0.html (http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,1637.0.html)

The SYMPTOMS:  NOTHING happens when you hit the start key or button.  Usually originally diagnosed as a bad key or button, usually it is NOT.

Also see Reply #24 below:  Starter Problems - bad ground lug connection for negatives to the engine.


Added to wiki. KJ

Also see Reply #42 below, on page 3:  Starter Problems and the fuse is in the wrong place!!! :shock: :shock: :shock:
Title: Re: CRITICAL UPGRADES - DO THESE OR ELSE!!!
Post by: Stu Jackson on October 23, 2009, 05:59:22 PM
Fuel Pickup Hose Inside the Tank

repeat from Reply #14

Here's why:  http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,1213.0.html (http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,1213.0.html)

In addition:

There was a picture of the fuel pickup hose that Ken Juul posted a few years ago.  I stumbled across it the other day, copied a link, but turns out it was incorrect, the link that is.  I've removed the link I originally posted here.  I've searched for the topic and the photo, but haven't yet found it.  

It shows the end of the hose with a garbled piece of hose sticking out of the tube, blocking half of the hose and a magnet for more growth and blockage.

If you haven't yet done so, check your 1990 or earlier and maybe '92 and earlier.  Please do so.

If anybody's found the topic & the picture, please post it, thanks.
Title: Re: CRITICAL UPGRADES - DO THESE OR ELSE!!!
Post by: Stu Jackson on October 23, 2009, 06:07:22 PM
Fuel Pump Hose

Factory went:  tank, pump, primary (Racor), engine

Should be:  tank, primary, pump, engine

The link in the post just above explains why very well.

and this one - Complete Fuel Filtration  [added 5/29/14]

http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,1213.0.html (http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,1213.0.html)
Title: Re: CRITICAL UPGRADES - DO THESE OR ELSE!!!
Post by: Stu Jackson on January 02, 2010, 06:14:42 PM
MARELON THRU HULL VALVES

Please be careful with the valve handles and screws.

See:http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,2729.0.html (http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,2729.0.html)

Title: Re: CRITICAL UPGRADES - DO THESE OR ELSE!!!
Post by: Stu Jackson on January 02, 2010, 06:17:07 PM
Rudder Bearing Housing

A recent topic indicated a potentially serious issue.  It would be worthwhile for both Mark I and Mark II owners to check their rudder post's assembly.  The chances of having another one like the one posted are rare.  But, it isn't worth it to be "the other guy" if all it takes is a simple check.

Thanks to Miles Henderson for identifying the issue on his boat & also to Ken Heyman for suggesting that it be added to this list.

See:  http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5371.0.html (http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5371.0.html)
Title: Re: CRITICAL UPGRADES - DO THESE OR ELSE!!!
Post by: Stu Jackson on May 27, 2010, 10:49:02 AM
Traveler Through Bolts

This is an amplification of the first post on this topic.  The link on the first post takes you here to an earlier Message Board thread:  http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5071.0.html (http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5071.0.html)

I thought it deserved its own post, and a link to the wiki picture, too.

Older boats, up to around 1990 perhaps, do not have the traveler track through bolted.  In an unexpected gybe the traveler track can pull out.  Has been written up in Mainsheet.

It's also on our C34 Tech Wiki:  http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Traveler_Bolts (http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Traveler_Bolts)

The "fix" is to call Catalina,Catalina Direct or Garhauer, buy two long bolts that they sell, buy a long drill bit and install them.  The bolts go all the way through and end up inside the cabin.  These are in addition to the existing bolts that only go to the fiberglass traveler support, and may be screwed into embedded brass plates.

You finish them with fender washers for backing and acorn nuts for your head.  :D

The one on starboard over the galley is easy to do.  Be careful lining up the port side one, because of the walls for the head door and between the head and the nav station.

This is valid for C30s also.
Title: Re: CRITICAL UPGRADES - DO THESE OR ELSE!!!
Post by: Stu Jackson on June 24, 2010, 10:17:44 PM
Wiring Harness Upgrade

Here's another one.  This is June 2010.  For a 1988 boat!!!

Warn ya?  Ha!  Thanks to Bob for his report.

http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5722.0.html (http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5722.0.html)

Ron has said, over and over again, that there are STILL boats out there who haven't done it.  http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,3716.msg21837.html#msg21837 (http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,3716.msg21837.html#msg21837)

Even IF you have a voltmeter, you could still have the OLD stupid connectors.

What's your boat worth to you?

Here's another one, September 2010, 1987 boat:  http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5861.0.html (http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5861.0.html) 

And another followup:  http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5866.0.html (http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5866.0.html)

Thanks, Todd & Len.

From one of the many wiring harness links:

Of the many wiring harness references in the Knowledgebase this one is noted:

DO IT  NOW.

On a repeated basis, both here and in my Secretary's Reports in Mainsheet, I have been noting that owners of older boats NEED  to read the material.  And then ACT on it.

I also believe at least an understanding of, and better yet an ability to repair, boat systems is essential to safety.  I didn't know any of this stuff when we bought our boat, but I read the stuff, and I bought the tools, started working on things, skinned many knuckles and feel that I have a responsibility to me, my family and my guests to get them out and back safely.  I know we all do, and some have differening abilities and interests.  But the information availble to us on this website should make it no excuse for anyone to NOT repair those things that are obvious and begin to learn about the others.  In the worst case, some $$ can be saved on yard bills by at least knowing more about the complicated machinery that our hulls surround.

From the May 1997 Tech Notes (by Ron Hill):  

Engine Harness Upgrade  – Do It NOW!
Our November ‘96 Mainsheet article on electrical systems really stirred up some
interest. Hank, Duane, and I have all received a number of requests for our electrical schematics. But, I still am hearing from people who have not made the engine harness upgrade. So much has been written and talked about that modification, I surely hope that nobody really wants all of the power from the alternator going direct to the key switch in the rear of the boat, then coming back to the battery selector switch, and finally (the few amps left) to the
batteries.
A few years ago Bill Beck, “Prosit”, hull #1186, had just anchored and took
their dog ashore in the dinghy. His wife, Dot, was on the boat by herself when all of a sudden the engine started itself. She tried to shut the engine off but it kept restarting. Dot dove overboard to get off that “crazy” boat. One of the harness connectors had shorted out keeping the starter engaged.
Fortunately the starter burned out before it started a fire. Bill had NOT modified any of his C-34 electrical components and had NOT upgraded the harness.
In the spring of 1991, I installed my high dual output alternator (each output
goes to a battery bank bypassing the battery selector switch). I had the engine
harness upgrade but had not installed it. I did, however, take the harness connector at the engine apart, inspected the terminals, and disconnected the old alternator lead to that connector. Everything looked good so I rewrapped and wire tied the connector. I thought the upgrade installation could wait as  only low amperage would be passing through the connector. The next spring I added Bob Bierly’s (C’Mon Wind, hull 913) VHF radio modification in the cockpit (Mainsheet article May 1995). Had to take out the engine instrument panel anyway so decided to do the half of the engine harness upgrade at that end.  Maybe a month later I got around to the other half of the modification at the engine. To my surprise, when I took the connector apart, the side with the male pins crumbled in my hand.
If you haven’t made the engine harness upgrade, you may want to reconsider.


There's also Maine Sail's write-ups:  http://forums.catalina.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=135558  (http://forums.catalina.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=135558)and http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/universal_wiring_harness_upgrade (http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/universal_wiring_harness_upgrade)
Title: Re: CRITICAL UPGRADES - DO THESE OR ELSE!!!
Post by: dodgercc27 on August 29, 2010, 07:14:11 PM
How can I tell if I have the upgraded alternator bracket or not?

In an unrelated topic, I just took ownership of our 1989 C34, so I'm trying to learn all the new systems.  I can't seem to find the dip stick for the transmission. I've crawled in the bilge underneath the aft cabin.  All that I could find was a large nut sitting on the port side top  of the housing.  Is that it ???  It seems odd that I would have to get the socket set out to check the fluid. 


Thanks!
Title: Re: CRITICAL UPGRADES - DO THESE OR ELSE!!!
Post by: Stu Jackson on August 29, 2010, 09:49:45 PM
1.  How can I tell if I have the upgraded alternator bracket or not?

2.  All that I could find was a large nut sitting on the port side top  of the housing.  Is that it ???  It seems odd that I would have to get the socket set out to check the fluid.  

1.  Look at the pictures here:  http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=M-25_Alternator_Mount_Conversion_Kit_%22B/M_256891%22 (http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=M-25_Alternator_Mount_Conversion_Kit_%22B/M_256891%22)  With a 1989 boat, you have the M25XP engine, which already had the new bracket installed.  This is ONLY for M25 engines.

2.  Yes, that's it.  Not strange, it's a boat, it vibrates, locking the dipstick makes sense.  Go to the Tech wiki and www.marinedieseldirect.com for pictures and more details about your engine.

And welcome to the board.  Join the IA, too.
Title: Re: CRITICAL UPGRADES - DO THESE OR ELSE!!!
Post by: Stu Jackson on September 11, 2010, 09:25:28 AM
STARTER PROBLEMS

Many may consider this a "maintenance" issue, but it comes up so many times with new owners of older boats that I think it merits attention here.

In addition to the discussion about starter fuses in this topic, Reply #15 above, the MAIN reason starters don't work is the original OEM factory lug ENGINE GROUND connection to the bell housing.

Read all about it here:  http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5409.0.html (http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5409.0.html)

This is one of dozens of discussions about the issue.

Here's a picture of one from a 2006 discussion:  http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,3039.msg16338.html#msg16338 (http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,3039.msg16338.html#msg16338)

Was also discussed in Projects many years ago:  http://www.c34.org/projects/projects-slow-starter-fix.html (http://www.c34.org/projects/projects-slow-starter-fix.html)

**********************
**********************

I don't know how many times I've answered this same question on this and other boating forums.

Anything intermittent like poor starting is an electrical connection going south.

Check the main engine ground first, it might look good, but pull hard on it, and remove it and clean it.

Check the fuse between the start button and the starter solenoid.

Check all connections, especially in the wiring harness.

Title: Re: CRITICAL UPGRADES - DO THESE OR ELSE!!!
Post by: Stu Jackson on September 17, 2010, 02:45:55 PM
M25 Engine Heat Exchanger Bracket and Abrasion

On the M25 engines the HX rubs on the bracket (at least on my engine, the newer engines have a bracket brazed onto the HX for mounting, mine has a bracket and uses hose clamps), I installed a tire tube between the HX and the bracket because I found evidence of rubbing.  It wouldn't be fun to have the shell of the HX broken by the bracket and lose all cooling to the engine.  Almost as bad as the hoses to the hot water heater under the galley sole (also in this Critical Upgrades topic).

If you add this isolation, be sure, as Ron always warns us, to do the dollar bill test between the HX and the exhaust riser to make sure they're not rubbing against each other.

This is yet another reason to sometimes take the whole HX OFF the engine to check it out.

The other  big reason to take it off?  If you're in saltwater, the port where the raw water cooling comes into the HX is where it "meets" the hot side freshwater recirculated coolant.  This is where the salt "precipitates out" and on both my old 2 inch and newer 3 inch HXs, this port can get clogged up.

So, please do your engine a good turn and spend some time removing and completely checking out your HX every few years or sooner.  

What's your engine worth to you?
Title: Re: CRITICAL UPGRADES - DO THESE OR ELSE!!!
Post by: Stu Jackson on September 27, 2010, 07:16:59 PM
New Alternator Bracket Source

http://catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_ID=1957

Thanks to Mark from the Ericson website

http://www.ericsonyachts.org/infoexchange/showthread.php?t=7596
Title: Re: CRITICAL UPGRADES - DO THESE OR ELSE!!!
Post by: Stu Jackson on January 21, 2011, 02:15:13 PM
OLD ELECTRICAL PANEL PADDLE SWITCHES

Looking for information on the older style panels with paddle switches and fuses, here's a link to the Seaward website.  I've also attached it as a PDF file.

http://www.seawardproducts.com/upgdinfo.pdf (http://www.seawardproducts.com/upgdinfo.pdf)  8/17/11 - doesn't work anymore, use the attached pdf below

It comes from this thread:  http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,4344.0.html (http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,4344.0.html)
Title: Re: CRITICAL UPGRADES - DO THESE OR ELSE!!!
Post by: Stu Jackson on May 10, 2011, 09:28:23 AM
Head Odors - Eliminate the Source

Tap your head sink outlet into the head intake.

Simple.

http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5755.30.html

While not a "Critical Upgrade" in terms of safety, it gets a lot of repeat questions, and is sooo easy to do.
Title: Re: CRITICAL UPGRADES - DO THESE OR ELSE!!!
Post by: Ron Hill on June 18, 2011, 07:11:06 AM
INSPECT THE FUEL FILL CAP !!!

The plastic fuel fill cap can and over time WILL crack and let rain/washing the boat water drip into the fuel tank -- NOT GOOD !!
This problem was identified by the C36 people in the mid 1980s and written up numerous times in the Mainsheet Tech notes.
 
You have two choices with this problem:
1. Inspect the cap frequently.  Remove the cap and I suggest alcohol or water be poured into the removed cap and see if it leaks.  If so, go to Catalina Direct and purchase another expensive cap to replace the leaking one.
2. Install a stainless fuel cap assembly.  The fuel fill is a 1 1/2" hose and there are a number of fuel fill to be purchased.  If you remove the engine instrument panel you can push up on the old assembly (after the screws are removed) to break the caulk holding it to the deck.  It took me about 1 hr. to do the job by myself.

If you still want to use the plastic cap I recommend that you only gingerly tighten it with the winch handle.  A few thoughts

NEW July 2017 Catalina Direct now makes stainless steel caps  http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,9465.0.html (http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,9465.0.html)
Title: Re: CRITICAL UPGRADES - DO THESE OR ELSE!!!
Post by: Stu Jackson on June 29, 2011, 08:14:35 PM
M35 Fuel Bleeding - Fuel Pump Tied into Glow Plug & Oil Pressure


This also applies to some later M25XP and XPB engines.


Dave Spencer directly asked a question about bleeding newer engines.  His question is here: 

http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6429.0.html

This question is kind of a "philosophical" one.

In 2007 we had discussed this in a very looong thread:  Hard Starting/ Possible glow plug problem?? M35 Engines & Fuel Pump Wiring

http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,3347.45.html

Reply #52 on page 4 of that topic begins to discuss the wiring to the fuel pump, how it works, issues with bleeding, and continues to end up describing exactly the issue that Dave addressed in his question.

Some of you MAY have had this issue, hope this helps.

Update:  In December 2011, Ray Irvine reported: "Also the solenoid that is used for the glow plugs is a low duty cycle version - the duty cycle is limited by the hold coil.  This means that if you hold the glow plugs on for too long - like get distracted with conversation etc - you can burn out the hold coil.   I am about to replace mine with a continuous duty cycle solenoid - for $10.00 more dollars."  This is for an M35 in a Mark II, and for those who have built-in OEM solenoids on their engines.  Many of us have added solenoids on our older M25 series engines.

In this thread: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,8245.0.html (http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,8245.0.html), there was an IMPORTANT REMINDER: DON'T hold your glow plugs ON for longer than the ENGINE MANUAL states.

In September 2012, PK had difficulties with starting his engine.  Read about it here:  http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,7121.0.html (http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,7121.0.html)

It also SUCKS when you want to pump out your fuel tank, for ANY reason.

Title: Re: CRITICAL UPGRADES - DO THESE OR ELSE!!!
Post by: Stu Jackson on September 12, 2011, 08:36:14 AM
Pro Mariner Flyback Chargers

Get them off your boat.  They are a FIRE HAZARD

Reply #6:

http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,3716.0.html (http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,3716.0.html)

How Many Times Do We Have to Warn You? 

http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5179.0.html (http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5179.0.html)

While Terry seems to think his problem was with lightning, it sure seems that having to go through so many ProMariner chargers is still OK.  Nonsense!  Read all the links in Reply #3 and Reply #5 and your head will be spinning until next month!   :D
Title: Re: CRITICAL UPGRADES - DO THESE OR ELSE!!!
Post by: Stu Jackson on November 13, 2011, 09:33:14 AM
WIRING HARNESS UPGRADE - Yet ANOTHER Reminder

Maine Sail has contributed another precious post on this issue:  Universal Wiring Harness:  http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6682.0.html (http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6682.0.html)  Please click on the links to read the details.

Also, the original post on this Critical Upgrades topic and Reply #21 gives you even more information.

Plus this one: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,4546.15.html (http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,4546.15.html)  This was started in 2008 and has received a helpful and important "update" in 2014.

Please also understand the "issues" involved in the Critical Upgrade:

The "Euro" strips are a very convenient way to make the connections to replace the trailer pins without having a more difficult time getting in there to strip and crimp connections on the wires for new butt connections. Your boat, your choice. I didn't mention this before, but my PO had the terminal strips installed well before I bought our '86 boat in '98 and the one in the engine compartment is still working just fine.

There are three ways to make the new wiring connections:

1. The "Euro" terminal strip provided by Seaward when you buy the harness. The harness is the wiring itself. The strips are there to replace the stupid trailer connectors. You can replace the connectors WITHOUT replacing the wiring itself (the "harness"). Many have done so.

2. Butt connectors instead of the "Euro" strip.  This is essentially the "hard wired" to the engine method suggested by Ron.

3. Terminal strips with ring terminals on each end of the wires, as suggested by Maine Sail. This method requires crimping, just like the butt connector method.

Also, remember that there are two purposes to this whole replacement: 1) getting rid of the trailer connections; 2) replacing the ammeter with a voltmeter to eliminate the long charging run in way undersized wiring to the cockpit panel.

[Added 12/5/2011]

Here's another discussion about connections for the harness and whether or not new wiring is "required."

http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6714.0.html (http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6714.0.html)

Here are some more Gummy Bear pictures

http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,8681.0.html (http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,8681.0.html)



Title: Re: CRITICAL UPGRADES - DO THESE OR ELSE!!!
Post by: Stu Jackson on June 30, 2012, 10:29:42 PM
M25 ALTERNATOR PIVOT BOLTS

It helps to examine the details of your engine.  Regularly.  Based on an earlier post in this topic, we identified a cracked alternator casing.

Further internet sleuthing found Maine Sail's excellent writeup about this and the earlier update to the C34 Tech wiki about the alternator bracket upgrade for M25 engines.  Many thanks to E. Herlihy who posted on sailnet and the Ericson forum.

If you have an M25XP, it wouldn't hurt to check your pivot bolt, too.  Same bracket, could have the same "undersized" bolt, don't know, but why not check?

Details here:     
Careful Engine Inspection & M25 Alternator Pivot Bolts  http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5127.0.html (http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5127.0.html)

One important trick, from Maine Sail:  use through bolts for the bracket connections instead of just the longer bolts suggested by Ron, same idea only even better.  Check that link for pictures.

Adjusting the New Bracket (from Maine Sail)

http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/universal_alternator_bracket (http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/universal_alternator_bracket)
Title: 915 Hood Furling - Upper Bearing FIX
Post by: Ron Hill on September 03, 2012, 03:00:22 PM
This is an OLD OLD fix about securing the top split bearings on the Hood 915 Genoa continuous roller furling system!

It first came out in the Mainsheet Tech Notes back in 1989 !!

PROBLEM - The top bearing of the Hood 915 system consists of 2 pieces.  They were originally install and held in place with a hammer rivet in each split piece that was inserted from the top. This rivet was supposed to spread and keep those bearings in place from compression.  

Owners soon found that they could easily pop out and usually went overboard.

FIX - is simply to take a short stainless screw 3/8 inch long and insert it thru the side of the top furling tube and into the bearing on each side.  The screws will hold the bearings in place and keep them from popping out!!  The rivets just remain in place.
Title: Re: CRITICAL UPGRADES - DO THESE OR ELSE!!!
Post by: Stu Jackson on September 05, 2012, 12:48:42 PM
Gooseneck Failure

http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,7127.0.html
 (http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,7127.0.html)

Also includes some ideas for improving the arrangement.

https://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm/product/957/gooseneck-casting-assy--c-28-c-30-c-34-c-36.cfm (https://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm/product/957/gooseneck-casting-assy--c-28-c-30-c-34-c-36.cfm)

Ken Heyman also reports tons of hits on a simple search on "gooseneck."

Added 2018: 

Here’s a link to some pics Dave Spencer took when he had his gooseneck apart.

http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,7127.msg49169.html#msg49169 (http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,7127.msg49169.html#msg49169)


Title: Replace the STIFF water hose connected to the exhaust riser nipple
Post by: Ron Hill on September 21, 2012, 05:48:58 PM
Look at the short section of hose that takes raw water from the anti siphon valve (vented loop) and connects it to the the exhaust riser.  That raw water (mixes with the hot exhaust gases) before the cooled exhaust enters the muffler.

Problem is that the STIFF wire reinforced hose installed by the factory, transmits all of the engine vibration strain onto that nipple weld causing it to fracture.

Fix is to remove that 5/8" hose and replace it with a more flexible nylon reinforced hose.

The more flexible hose takes most of the strain off of that welded nipple!!
Title: Re: Water leaks from the Raw Water Pump
Post by: Ron Hill on January 13, 2013, 02:45:56 PM
In the raw water pump whether it be an Oberdoffer, Sherwood or a Johnson there are "weep holes" between the water side and oil side of the pump.  These are there to let you know if the seals (on either side) are starting to leak.  

Problem : Seal failure - It is usually the water side that starts with a seep of a few drops and as the seal continues to wear the few drops can and will turn into a stream.  The leaking water runs down the front of the engine below the pump, the oil pan and finally to the floor under the engine and then eventually into the bilge.
The water will start to cause rust and corrosion on the front of the engine and can and will RUST a hole in the oil pan!!  If you are in salt water the corrosion will happen much sooner that later, but it will happen!

Fix : Remove the pump and replace the leaking seal.  You should also inspect the stainless drive shaft for any scoring or scratches.  If you just replace only the seals and continue to use a scored/scratched stainless drive shaft, you will have accomplished - NOTHING!

I wrote an article on this topic back in the mid 1990s titled - "Isn't it a shame that you have to pull the engine and replace the oil pan, because you didn't notice that drip of water??"  

Guys, look at the engine while it is running for leaks of water, oil, coolant and fuel!!

There is also a C34 tech wiki which has a link back to this board.  Both have pictures.  (Stu 10/20/13)
Title: Re: CRITICAL UPGRADES - DO THESE OR ELSE!!!
Post by: billmathus on November 12, 2013, 03:56:35 PM
Digging into my 1988 Catalina 34 electrical system I have determined that the Engine Wiring Harness upgrade was not done by previous owners.  I have studied the info provide herein, and called Seaward today only to discover they do not offer the harness kit any longer.  BUT, Dennis Igarashi  - cell - (626) 374-6422 does offer the kits and the harness - apparently he used to be a part of Seaward and as moved on but has an inventory of parts..  The kit is now $54 (subject to change) and the harness - listed in this site as costing $35 back when everyone else did the upgrade - is now $140 (subject to change).

Added by Stu 11/13/13:

Bill, Seaward was bought out by Whale, who no longer sell to the public.  Dennis used to work for Seaward and is selling off the remaining stock he accumulated.  Thanks for his phone #, I posted about this earlier.

http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,7405.0.html (http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,7405.0.html)
Title: Re: Wiring Harness -- CRITICAL UPGRADE
Post by: Ron Hill on November 12, 2013, 04:57:49 PM

Guys : The important things about this Wiring Harness  upgrade - is to get rid of the trailer plug connectors!! and reroute the alternator output!
 
These trailer connections were made so it added efficiency (took less time) to install an engine into the boat hull while it was on the factory production line!!

Save yourself $$$ and hard wire one side to the other and skip the "euro connectors".  As I have mentioned before in posts and in Mainsheet articles - I removed my origional old engine twice and then installed a new engine and each time I disconnected/reconnected the wires at the engine (not from the euro connectors)!!

Hard wire to the engine and the engine instrument panel by cutting one wire at a time and reconnecting to the mate on the other side. You can (as I would recommend) cut, strip & solder and cover with heat shrink or you can use a butt connector.
Just get rid of the trailer connections, as they are the problem.

The other part of the upgrade you MUST also do is to reroute the output from the alternator to the stud on the starter solenoid with a short piece of marine grade wire (I'd recommend #4 gage).

A few thoughts
Title: Re: CRITICAL UPGRADES - DO THESE OR ELSE!!!
Post by: Stu Jackson on February 24, 2014, 03:47:28 PM
ALIGNING M25 & M25XP ALTERNATOR BRACKETS

Maine Sail's newest contribution:

http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,7917.0.html (http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,7917.0.html)

I've also included a link to this thread in the Tech wiki on the M25 alternator bracket warning article.

Also see Reply #33 (above, in this topic):  Alternator Pivot Bolts
Title: Re: CRITICAL UPGRADES - DO THESE OR ELSE!!!
Post by: Stu Jackson on May 23, 2014, 08:04:38 AM
Alternator Belt Tensioning Tool 

http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,3667.0.html (http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,3667.0.html)

and James ' homemade one:  http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,10338.0.html
Title: Re: CRITICAL UPGRADES - DO THESE OR ELSE!!!
Post by: KWKloeber on July 21, 2014, 01:29:02 AM
Replace the fuse holder from the start button to the starter solenoid

Here's two of the many posts on this issue with pictures:  http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,4556.0.html (http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,4556.0.html)  and http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,1637.0.html (http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,1637.0.html)

The SYMPTOMS:  NOTHING happens when you hit the start key or button.  Usually originally diagnosed as a bad key or button, usually it is NOT.

Also see Reply #24 below:  Starter Problems - bad ground lug connection for negatives to the engine.


Added to wiki. KJ

The fuse on the starter solenoid wire to the "S" terminal of the starter solenoid is for "show" and can actually be eliminated before the fuse holder corrodes and there's a "no crank" issue.  It has no value because it's at the WRONG END of the wiring harness -- if there's a short in the harness, the fuse stays intact as the harness wire melts and burns when you hit the start button.  On models after the M-25XP (ie, XPB, 35B) Westerbeke realized this and eliminated that fuse -- in favor of a circuit breaker on the 12v power feed TO the engine panel.  That (breaker) instead protects the ENTIRE harness, panel wiring, etc.

Ken K.

[Stu - this was Post #15 on page 2]

Title: Re: CRITICAL UPGRADES - DO THESE OR ELSE!!!
Post by: KWKloeber on September 28, 2014, 06:26:40 PM
Alternator Belt Tensioning Tool 

http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,3667.0.html (http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,3667.0.html)

[attachthumb=#]

An addition to the belt jack that Stu has the link for info to above, this BELT TENSION GAUGE works really well, as posted by a few of your C-30 brethren.

[attachthumb=#]

There's two sizes - you want the smaller for up to 7/8" wide belts.

NAPA currently (9/2014) carries it as p/n NBH KR1.
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Belt-Tension-Gauge/_/R-NBGKR1_0006447252

As well as Amazon, Goodyear etc as a Gates belt tension gage
http://www.amazon.com/Gates-91107-Belt-Tension-Tester/dp/B000MUTAGS#productDetails

And is also marketed as a Dayco "Krickit" tensioner, sold by Pep Boys, Rock Auto, etc.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0DZYfYFccAM

We know how product offering and links change, so if the weblinks come up dead, just search your favorite browser for a Kricket KR1 v-belt tension gauge.


Cheers,
Ken K
Title: Re: CRITICAL UPGRADES - DO THESE OR ELSE!!!
Post by: Stu Jackson on March 30, 2015, 02:03:38 PM
ADDITIONAL Engine Wiring Harness Ideas from Ken Kloeber

This is a draft with a great explanation of the description and functions of the wiring.

http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,8406.0.html (http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,8406.0.html)

February 2017

http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,9302.0.html (http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,9302.0.html)
Title: Re: CRITICAL UPGRADES - DO THESE OR ELSE!!!
Post by: mark_53 on June 08, 2016, 12:39:23 PM
Dedicated Start Battery
When I fist bought my boat, 1989 MK1, and replaced the batteries with 2 new group 27s, I thought my starting issues would be over.  The engine would start most of the time but from time to time, it just would not start or even click.  Cleaned and tighten all the connections, replaced start button, ignition switch and fuses but still was not reliable 100% of the time.  A big problem with the OEM design is the cable length and number of connections.  Over time, these connection lose continuity along with the voltage drop due to cable length.  I thought I'd solve the problem by carrying a jump starter battery pack which saved me once or twice.  The problem with that is it takes time to set it up.  When your drifting towards a hazard there may not be enough time to set it up.  The answer is a dedicate start battery connected directly to the starter with much shorter cable runs.  There are several ways to accomplish this that can be found on this site.  This upgrade will effectivley double your house bank size if you have the OEM 2 grp 27 house batteries by allowing you to use your house bank without worrying if your engine will start.
Title: Re: CRITICAL UPGRADES - DO THESE OR ELSE!!!
Post by: Stu Jackson on June 10, 2016, 03:45:55 PM
Dedicated Start Battery

A big problem with the OEM design is the cable length and number of connections.  Over time, these connection lose continuity along with the voltage drop due to cable length.

The answer is a dedicate start battery connected directly to the starter with much shorter cable runs.  There are several ways to accomplish this that can be found on this site.  This upgrade will effectively double your house bank size if you have the OEM 2 grp 27 house batteries by allowing you to use your house bank without worrying if your engine will start.

You might be interested in this observation:
 
http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,8971.msg64907.html#msg64907 (http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,8971.msg64907.html#msg64907)

You're right about doubling the house bank size by doing this.  Remember, that the original boats were usually delivered with a "two house bank" system.  It is 1980s "technology."
Title: Re: CRITICAL UPGRADES - DO THIS OR ELSE!!!
Post by: Breakin Away on September 19, 2016, 05:36:25 AM
ENGINE SERVICE BULLETINS

YOU'D BE REALLY DUMB TO NOT CHECK THESE

AND THEN ACTUALLY DO THEM


...Also look around the Westerbeke/Universal engine website, here:

http://www.westerbeke.com/Products/InstallationManual.aspx?ID=7 (http://www.westerbeke.com/Products/InstallationManual.aspx?ID=7)

...I clicked the link and it works for me...

The above link is still dead on all of my computers. Could someone else try it to verify whether I'm the only one getting the 404 error message shown below?

Quote
The resource cannot be found.

Description: HTTP 404. The resource you are looking for (or one of its dependencies) could have been removed, had its name changed, or is temporarily unavailable.  Please review the following URL and make sure that it is spelled correctly.

Requested URL: /Products/InstallationManual.aspx
Title: Re: CRITICAL UPGRADES - DO THESE OR ELSE!!!
Post by: KWKloeber on September 19, 2016, 07:01:27 AM
I noticed the dead link Friday when I posted my SBs on the Wiki, but didn't mention it.  Wb changed its website (to "improve" it?) but not surprisingly mucked it up. 

The SBs that I have are posted here  If anyone sees one I'm missing let me know and I'll modify the post. 
http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Manuals   (I OCR'd the PDF so you can search on a keyword.)

The link to the Wb page to the Universal documents is:  http://www.westerbeke.com/universalenginelibrary.htm
Then click on your model (the Service Bulletins are not linked in one location as they were previously.) 

But Wb screwed up the SBs -- the engine link doesn't necessarily show all the SBs for that engine.  For instance, the M25 shows only a four SBs (only FOUR?? no mention of an exploding alternator bracket, for example.)  Another example, the SB for the tranny linkage is on the A4 page, not the M25 page, but is on the XP page. 

JTSO, but typical for Wb, but let's make sure we have a monopoly on an inferior seawater pump.

Gee I wonder why CTY dumped Universal?

-kk