I want to add single line reefing to my 1990 Catalina 34. I have the factory two line reefing. Postings here seem to be 3-1 in favor of two line reefing due to friction and inability to tighten the clew, however I prefer single line reefing because I want to rig both reefs to be ready and don't want the complexity of 4 lines, plus I've sailed on at least one other boat with single line reefing that worked fine.
I'd like feedback on my plan and whether or not it might eliminate the problems others have with single line reefing:
1. Follow the layout of the Harken single line reefing system (see http://www.harken.com/pdf/4171.pdf). Would I eliminate much friction by using two blocks instead of the bulls eye fairlead? I plan to use Garhauer series 25 blocks.
2. Use blocks in the clew reef cringle as described at http://www.catalina380.org/article_display.asp?ID=114.
3. Reef lines will go to a double block at the mast and be redirected back via deck organizers.
4. Use very low stretch line.
Deck organizer question: I have the original doubles on each side. Can I stack my existing organizers as I plan to replace one with a triple. Is adding a triple as simple as drilling and tapping the third hole? Do our boats use the size 30 (2") or 40 (2 5/8") organizers?
Note: The November, 2003 Technote gives me an error when I tried to download it.
Kyle Ewing
Donnybrook #1010
Chicago
Kyle,
I'm in the process of doing precisely the same thing. If your existing double organizer is by Garhauer, according to them the replacement triple organizer is their part # 30-DO-TB. It should be as simple as tapping the third hole... :wink: we'll see. Murphy rides with me...
Catalina Direct also has the double to triple replacement. I see no reason why you couldn't stack your doubles?
Garhauer can also make you a double lift block (#3017LS) that works with the stud on the mast collar. I should have all the pieces installed this weekend...and will shamelessly report what I engineered incorrectly! :shock:
A quick plug for Garhauer...outstanding folks...custom items on the order and they still shipped the next day!
Kyle, why the extra low stretch line? I see no reason for the extra cost involved, the clew and tack aren't really going anywhere and can be snugged up anytime even when the sail is already reefed.
[I'm still working on the tech notes online, and still looking for help on that process, sorry if a few don't work. I'll look into it.]
I'm thinking low stretch because I want the tack and clew snug. Looking at the stretch characteristics of New England Ropes line, for example (http://www.neropes.com/PleasureMarine.aspx), Sta Set stitches 1.8% and high techs stretch up to .5%, or 6 and 1.8 inches respectively for a 30' run. Given the length the line stretch may be less of an issue.
Kyle, I've sailed other boats with single line and really liked it. Well enough to set up a previous (smaller) boat with a single line system. Use more blocks. For sure use a small, light block at the luff, as opposed to running the line through the cringle.
Kyle,
My boat is just North of you in Montrose harbor. I have the single line reefing setup for both the first and second reef using the resources you posted. You're welcome to come out and take a look, give me a call or email me. Our boats will be very similar, as mine is a '94 Mark 1.5.
Bob Kuba
I noticed that the wiki has no info or photos showing reefing systems.
I'll get some photos posted this weekend after I meet with Kyle.
Bob
Warning! Warning!
I use single line reefing also using the Block at the cringle originally. I have mentioned in a couple of other posts on mainsail suppliers that Kappa Sails did a great job repairing my main when it tore in a reefing setting.
The SS ring used to attach the block at the cringle MUST BE LARGE!! I used a ring that was larger that the cringle by the width of the ring on both sides - probably 3/8" larger. The ring pulled through the cringle under stress and that lead to the sail tear! The cringle is softer and can distort under load and out pops the ring. Interestingly, the cringle returned back to its orginal shape and of course, the SS ring still looked new??? I don't use the ring/block any longer (gun-shy) but if you use, get a "larger than you think you need ring"!
Still have success with single line reefing back to the cockpit sans the block.
I am in the finishing phase of single line reefing. To get the best reef, the sail should lay on the boom which means removing the sail stop. How has anyone closed the slot so the sail lugs do not fall out. In my old C-22 I screwed a strip of aluminum to the mast but now looking for a better way or some existing part but have not found it yet. Any suggestions out there.
Quote from: Jim Brener on July 10, 2009, 04:07:13 PM
... which means removing the sail stop. How has anyone closed the slot so the sail lugs do not fall out. In my old C-22 ...
Jim, as I recall, they're called mast gates. I just did a Google search on them and there are plenty of hits. It's the same concept as on our old C22s. I have not heard about them on our website or MB.
I take that back! I just did a search on the MB and found this: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,4426.0.html
(http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,4426.0.html)
The other solution is jack lines at the bottom of the luff of mainsail.
My solution was to buy a boat with Harken BattCars and a track with double line reefing. :D
Quote from: Kyle Ewing on June 08, 2009, 09:57:13 AM
I'm thinking low stretch because I want the tack and clew snug. ...Given the length the line stretch may be less of an issue.
Kyle, the tack doesn't need too much snug, it's being pulled straight down. Where you need the snug is the clew, but we've been using the equivalent of StaSet for 11 years and unless you're going offshore and have the reef in for weeks at a time, stretch should NOT be an issue.
Looking forward to the pictures. Oh, Bob did it already. See the wiki, scroll down to the bottom past our double line explanation: http://www.c34.org/wiki/index.php?title=Reefing