Catalina 34

General Activities => Main Message Board => Topic started by: GORLOFSKY on May 03, 2009, 06:14:05 AM

Title: Alternator/Batteries & "The Basic" 1-2-B Switch BEST Wiring Diagrams
Post by: GORLOFSKY on May 03, 2009, 06:14:05 AM
Just purchased a 2000 Catalina 34 and I can't figure out the electric system. It was redone by Jack Rabbit Marine in 2006. The reason for the rewire was to separate the house bank from the starting battery, but when there is a load on the house, the starter battery is draining too. My problem is I can't seem to track where the alternator comes in to re-power the batteries. Where does this connect with the batteries in the setup from Catalina.

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Gary Orlofsky
Title: Re: Alternator/Batteries
Post by: BillG on May 03, 2009, 06:40:23 AM
Before they went bankrupt, Jack Rabbit Marine were a pretty reliable outfit with fantastic customer support.
i would look to see if there is a  Balmar Duo Charger or some sort of battery combiner between the house bank
and starting bank.  This allows the current to move in one direction(to charge the starting battery) but not the other way.
The wires that run from the house bank to the Duo Charge don't have to be as hefty as those from the alternator and therefore may have been overlooked by you when tracing the wires.  If you don't have some sort of battery combiner between the two, then you need to get one.
Lastly, with a Duo Charger, there would be no wire directly from the alternator to the starting bank, current runs to the house bank, then to the Duo Charger and then to the start battery
Title: Re: Alternator/Batteries
Post by: GORLOFSKY on May 03, 2009, 07:48:45 AM
Instead of the Duo Charger I have a Xantrex Echo Charger. It would make the most sense to run the Alternator direct to the house bank, but that does not seem to be what was done. It appears the starter bank is the one being charged by the alternator, but I can't find any alternator wire leading to the starter battery or the selector switch. Where else could the alternator be hooked into to cause this???

Gary
Title: Re: Alternator/Batteries
Post by: Stu Jackson on May 03, 2009, 09:55:36 AM
Gary,

Given your description, we're ONLY guessing here.  What you NEED to do is either find or make a wiring diagram and post it (like I did, reply #23 here: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,4623.15.html )  That's the ONLY way we can help.

Another post is this one: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,4934.0.html

I used to joke that we can't help much on this message board with sounds and smells.  Appears that wiring diagrams are pretty much the same. :D  If I was close to you I'd come by and help you trace wires, but...

Keep us posted, we'd love to help.
Title: Re: Alternator/Batteries
Post by: BillG on May 03, 2009, 03:25:31 PM
The Xantrex and Balmar are similar in nature, and I believe that both recommend that the house bank is first in line for charging then connected to the
appropriate battery combiner and then the starting battery.  If the house bank is excessively low then the Xantrex or Balmar will prevent the starting battery
from being charged until the house bank has come up to a set minimum charge.

Do you have the stock alternator or an upgrade?

Stu is right, you need to do a wire diagram, the alternator wire has to go somewhere.
Title: Re: Alternator/Batteries
Post by: GORLOFSKY on May 03, 2009, 04:19:37 PM
Bill,
The alternator is original and I have a diagram for the wiring. Although I do not have it with me to post, I have looked at it enough to know where everything is on the diagram. The problem is what is on the diagram is not what is actually set up. It shows the alternator leading into the house positive wire and I cannot find this anywhere. I have a positive bus bar and a negative bus bar. The alternator does not go to either of these (not that the positive should lead to the neg. bar). It does not go to the 1-2- both switch by itself either. It defiantly goes to the engine starting positive through the engine on off switch. Can the alternator  somehow be routed to charge back through the engine positive line???
Title: Re: Alternator/Batteries
Post by: Stu Jackson on May 03, 2009, 11:32:56 PM
   ...and I have a diagram for the wiring. ...what is on the diagram is not what is actually set up. It shows the alternator leading into the house positive wire and I cannot find this anywhere. I have a positive bus bar and a negative bus bar. The alternator does not go to either of these (not that the positive should lead to the neg. bar). It does not go to the 1-2- both switch by itself either. It defiantly goes to the engine starting positive through the engine on off switch. Can the alternator  somehow be routed to charge back through the engine positive line???

Gary,

Your nomenclature leaves me perplexed. 

"Engine starting positive"  What does this mean?

"engine positive line"  Same question.

"...the house positive wire..."  Same question.

and " engine on off switch"  Is this the 12B switch or a separate switch that was installed by the PO and/or Jack Rabbit or an I/O one underneath the nav station seat that is not from the factory based on the manual wiring diagram?

It would be of great assistance to us to help you if you could explain to us what these unfamiliar terms mean.

If it was my boat (& I had to do it on mine), what I'd do is find out two important basic things:

1.  Where the input for charging comes from (forgetting shorepower for the moment, just the alternator) - start at the battery box and work outwards, and follow to, hopefully, the alternator output.  There is only one alternator output and the wire has to go somewhere.  Where does it go?  Only you can tell us because we can't see it from here.  Find out if they ever meet.  I understand that your entire topic is about this very issue, and you're trying to do this, but unless I'm with you on your boat, I can't trace any wires for you from my computer at my desk here in my office.  Plus, what you've described bears no relationship to any basic factory wiring or "usual suspects" for "traditional" upgrades.  Combined with your unusual definitions, there's nothing that "rings a bell" or that gives me an "aha" moment.  You have a system that's been worked on or over with incorrect documentation.  Only you can trace the wiring. 

2.  Document and tell us what happens at your 1-2-B switch connections, and tell us what's there.  In the links I provided earlier, there were two different OEM ways to do it:  one wire off the C post to the alternator and then a small wire to the starter; two wires off the C post, one to the alternator the other to the starter.  Or the alternator output could go to the house bank post on the switch.  We have NO idea what's there now on your boat. 

Without a description of what you do have, regardless of what your wiring diagram says and what you see, which are different, there's no way we can do anything from here to help you, as much as we'd like to.

Can you describe what steps you take to start your engine, and run your house batteries?  Like "Start engine on switch position 1, shut engine down, switch to position 2, etc..." 

Do you have a separate switch for the engine (start) and a separate switch for the house bank?

I understand and agree with your earlier post about the echo charger.  And you wrote: "It appears the starter bank is the one being charged by the alternator, but I can't find any alternator wire leading to the starter battery or the selector switch. Where else could the alternator be hooked into to cause this???"  Only place I can think of is to an ammeter in the engine cockpit panel. 

Do you have a voltmeter or ammeter in the cockpit engine panel?

Essentially, you've told us you have a problem, discussed that your documentation doesn't match what's there, used terms that don't seem to apply to anything I've ever heard about boat electrical systems, and told us you don't know what is there.  How can we help with that limited information? 

I love playing electrical detective, as folks here will attest, Gary, but it sure is hard playin' detective without a body to examine. :D

In your first post you asked: "Where does this connect with the batteries in the setup from Catalina."  Go to C34 Home at the upper left corner of the main message board screen, use the left hand index and scroll down to manuals.  Read away.

PS -- Where is your boat?  Please see this ID topic: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,1506.0.html  It's the first one on the MB.
Title: Re: Alternator/Batteries
Post by: Ken Juul on May 04, 2009, 09:01:58 AM
just thinking out of the box here to help with your troubleshooting.  I am not sure this would even work and certainly not recommending this. 

Could your alternator lead be routed to the + post on the starter so it "back" feeds the batteries thru the starter cable?
Title: Re: Alternator/Batteries
Post by: Stu Jackson on May 04, 2009, 04:47:42 PM
Ken, good idea.  The "old" OEM way of connecting the alternator wire that goes from the C post of the 1-2-B switch to the alternator and then on to the starter with the little orange wire could have been employed here in reverse.  Start bank to starter to alternator to C post.  Hmm, weird, but possible.  Still need to address where the house bank went or goes!   :D :D :D  If Gary was around somewhere close, I know you and I would have a lovely time ripping his boat apart and finding the answers!   :shock:
Title: Re: Alternator/Batteries
Post by: GORLOFSKY on May 04, 2009, 05:47:57 PM
Stu and Ken,

I'm from Connecticut so I'm a just a little far away. When I go down to the boat this weekend I will have to check Ken's thought of "back feeding". I'll let you know what I find.

Thanks for all the help so far.

Gary
Title: Re: Alternator/Batteries
Post by: steve stoneback on May 05, 2009, 07:11:57 AM
Let me start by saying I am electrically challenged..... but I am trying to learn, thanks to this MB. I think my alternator output goes to the + post on the starter.  My starter cable from the 1-2-B switch is fed based on switch position, so aren't which batteries receiving the charges based on my switch position?  Position 1 (starting/reserve) is a single group 27. Position 2 (house bank) is 3 deep cycle group 27's.  In other words backfeeding does work.

I plan on changing my setup to 4 six volt golf cart batteries and a reserve battery.  When I do, I will be running the alternator output directly to the house bank.

Steve
Title: Re: Alternator/Batteries
Post by: Stu Jackson on May 05, 2009, 08:21:56 AM
...my alternator output goes to the + post on the starter.  My starter cable from the 1-2-B switch is fed based on switch position, so aren't which batteries receiving the charges based on my switch position?  

Yes, Steve, you are correct.  That's the rambling, ongoing points that I've been having here in my discussions about the 1-2-B switch.  Because the output of the alternator wired that way, once the engine starts, goes through the switch, the switch position does exactly that.

HERE'S HOW THE OEM WIRING ORIGINALLY WORKED AND WHY YOU SHOULD CHANGE IT

In the diagrams below, please change B to C.  B is a position on the switch, it is NOT a point of wiring connection.  There are three "posts" on the back of the switch: 1, 2 AND C.  There are four positions on the switch: OFF, 1, 2 and BOTH. Thanks.

Figs. 1 & 2 show factory wiring (B1 is the house bank, B2 is the reserve bank).  Sometimes they wired the switch with two wires (which is how my boat was wired in 1986, or the PO could well have had someone add the second wire - doesn't matter to this discussion). Either later on or around the same time, they reduced it to one wire with a little connector between the alternator output and the starter (Fig. 2)  Why?  It was cheaper to build.  That one big wire served two purposes:  when starting it took power from the (selected) battery-or (ies) and fed it TO the starter, and through the small wire between the AO and the starter (small wire, short distance, high current, short time period of current flow); once the engine was running, the small wire did nothing, but the AO started flowing current BACK from the alternator to the switch in the opposite direction.  Same wire, current flowed in a different direction.

It was a very functional and cost efficient design, because it used one wire to do two two things.  "Gee, how nifty!," you say.  

'Cept for a few things:  

The switch determined which bank got charged when the alternator was charging (engine running).  For years people incorrectly thought they had to start on B because they "needed" the power of two banks.  Wrong. And still wrong.  In "the olden days" two equal banks were the design norm.  People would switch daily between one and two for house use.  In fact, new boats still come that way, don't they?  Who says the "good old days" are gone?!

When people mistakenly either moved the switch with poor contacts or the brother-in-law turned the switch off with the engine running, the diodes on the alternator fried.  Why?  Because the output of the alternator was interrupted.  (We discussed this years ago and sometimes with full batteries that won't happen, but it did and still does and is an expensive "maybe" to mess with, when you don't ever have to).

With new higher output alternators, the OEM #4 wiring became too small based on voltage drop, so you were losing charging power, just when you needed it the most: to charge a depleted house bank after a night or two on the hook.

Fig. 3 shows the "preferred" design.  This way, AO always goes to the house bank, which needs it more than the reserve bank ever does, and you can even turn the switch to OFF with the engine and alternator running because the AO is always directly connected to a load (battery).  PDP is the post to collect all wiring going to the house bank (positive distribution post --- to avoid loading up a lot of wires on the battery post - some use a bus bar, I used a Power Post Plus).

The switch then simply does one thing and one thing only:  determines which bank provides power for DC loads on the boat, which are starting the engine and running the DP (distribution panel - your electrical panel with the DC loads).

And it does it very well.  That's why I continue to "defend" the simple 1-2-B switch.

Since the reserve bank hardly ever needs a "big" charge, because it only uses a few amps to both energize the glow plugs and start the engine, and the house bank is perfectly capable of starting the engine, we leave our switch on #1 (house) all the time.  The reserve bank is just that: emergency, backup, reserve.  Not "start."  Many like to use the reserve bank to always start their engines.  That's fine, but is merely an operational issue, rather than a switching issue, because with one 1-2-B switch, with the Fig. 3 "preferred" wiring, you can use the 1-2-B on #2 to start the engine and leave it there until you shut your engine off, because the alternator output is still going to the house bank, always.

A search on the phrase "In Defense" or an advanced search on "1-2-B" with my name will pop up many earlier discussions on this topic.

Also, Steve, between now and when you change your batteries, you can functionally do this by simply moving the AO from the C post on your 1-2-B switch to the house bank post, and install your echo charger now.  This gets the AO off the C post and always goes to the house bank.  If you've already installed a high output alternator, I wouldn't do this now because the OEM #4 wiring between the banks and the switch would be too small, but with the OEM alternator it'd be fine.  This works only with the Fig. 1 wiring, 'cuz if you did it with the Fig. 2 wiring the starter wouldn't work on switch position 2, the reserve bank.  See the Alternator Output and Battery Switch topic: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,4934.0.html  I edited this topic accordingly.

Another discussion of this issue is on the co.com 'site, here, bottom of page one starts that discussion and moves onto page 2:  http://forums.catalina.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=104505 (http://forums.catalina.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=104505)

In the diagrams below, please change B to C.  B is a position on the switch, it is NOT a point of wiring connection.  There are three "posts" on the back of the switch: 1, 2 AND C.  There are four positions on the switch: OFF, 1, 2 and BOTH. Thanks.
Title: Re: Alternator/Batteries & 1-2-B Switch Wiring Diagrams
Post by: DaveM on May 08, 2009, 09:22:04 AM
Check this setup out and see if you see a problem.  Maybe I am repeating one of Stu's setups?  It seems to address Alternator always connected and you can get to each battery independently for starting, or combined.  If there is a problem it would be when it is on both so the combining relay and switch would be in parallel.  Don't know if that would give the combining relay any trouble or not.  What y'all think?

Good Winds
DaveM
Title: Re: Alternator/Batteries & 1-2-B Switch Wiring Diagrams
Post by: Stu Jackson on May 08, 2009, 11:57:18 AM
That's perfect, and just what we have.  The combining relay and B is not a problem, ever, even if they are both on at the same time.  I don't use B anyway, the relay does that when charging.  B is great for if the relay fails.  "B" is for "Backup"   :D :D :D

Only changes I'd make:  1) call it reserve not start bank;  2) make the house bank #1 because if you ever install a Link 2000 the house bank has to be #1 for "programming" operational reasons.
Title: Re: Alternator/Batteries & 1-2-B Switch Wiring Diagrams
Post by: DaveM on May 08, 2009, 01:37:05 PM
Stu  Thanks

Then given that, all we would have to do after doing the wiring harness upgrade is put a combiner in and, instead of running a large hot wire from the Alternator to the Starter terminal to replace the old orange wire, we run the hot wire from the Alternator to the positive of the house bank.   This is of course given that you have a normal old OEM setup with 1-2-Both switch to begin with.  Make sense?

Good Winds
DaveM
Title: Re: Alternator/Batteries & 1-2-B Switch Wiring Diagrams
Post by: Stu Jackson on May 08, 2009, 11:26:14 PM
Yes.  An echo charger would be better than a combiner for a reserve bank because it is current limiting to the reserve bank and doesn't ever "combine" the banks..  We put a switch in our combiner (-) leg for a shut off in case we motor for long periods. The "hot wire" from the alternator to the house bank should be sized to carry the current you have or plan to have, and appropriately enlarged if considering a high(er) output alternator in the future to avoid having to rewire later.
Title: Re: Alternator/Batteries & 1-2-B Switch Wiring Diagrams
Post by: DaveM on May 10, 2009, 12:14:06 PM
Stu
Thanks for the point on the echo charger.  I honestly had not noticed that detail, but is obviously important.  When you say you put a switch on the negative (-) leg of the echo charger do you mean the ground lead or the output leg to the starting battery.  Would it be better for the switch to be on the house battery side to isolate the echo charger?  Thanks
Good Winds
Dave M
Title: Re: Alternator/Batteries & 1-2-B Switch Wiring Diagrams
Post by: Stu Jackson on May 10, 2009, 10:25:07 PM
Dave, Notice I said "on our combiner" not an echo charger.  The concept is the same, although the echo charger is current limiting.  If you want to be able to turn off the automatic battery connection that the relay provides, you will need to read the instructions in your echo charger manual.  My combiner manual allows for doing this on the negative lead from the combiner relay to the NDP (battery ground post near the battery box before the negative goes to the engine).  I do this to avoid combining the banks when motoring for long periods to avoid overcharging the reserve bank.  It's not the "side" it's on, Dave, it's to disable the relay from closing.

Added 6/29/2015:  Maine Sail has corrected me by reminding me that batteries can't get overcharged UNLESS the voltage is too high.  Check out "Electrical Systems 101" or do a search on MYTH.

Added 10/21/11:  Echo chargers do NOT need to be turned off.  I was wrong.
Title: Re: Alternator/Batteries & "The Basic" 1-2-B Switch BEST Wiring Diagrams
Post by: Stu Jackson on October 20, 2011, 08:37:29 AM
Here's another good wiring diagram, courtesy of clj1950 from sailnet
Title: Re: Alternator/Batteries & "The Basic" 1-2-B Switch BEST Wiring Diagrams
Post by: Ken Juul on November 17, 2011, 08:28:02 AM
I've been suffering some charging problems. Which lead to reexamining how I set up my system.  If you move your alt charge wire so it goes directly to the house bank, you also need to move the Alt Sense wire and the 12v feed to the engine instruments off the starter post and on to either the house load side of the 12Both switch or the house bank itself to get proper voltage indications and alternator regulation.
Title: Re: Alternator/Batteries & "The Basic" 1-2-B Switch BEST Wiring Diagrams
Post by: Ralph Masters on November 17, 2011, 02:12:18 PM
Ken,
If you simply remove the wire going from the alternator to the starter and leave the other wires still attached to the positive post, alt sense and instrument feed, you should not have any issues with those two.  You will still have positive power from the battery going back to that starter post for the alt to sense and to feed the instruments.  Youíre just moving the output to a different position.  Am I right??  This is my next project on Ciao Bella for after the holiday.

Ralph
Title: Re: Alternator/Batteries & "The Basic" 1-2-B Switch BEST Wiring Diagrams
Post by: Ron Hill on November 17, 2011, 03:18:23 PM
Ken : By no means am I an electrical whiz, but I believe that you are referring to the voltage regulator "battery sense" wire. 
I believe that Ralph is correct, just reroute the alternator output wire direct to the battery banks and the other wiring should be fine.

I've had a couple of differant voltage regulators over the years.  One had a sense wire going to the battery bank, but the latest had a sense wire going to the key switch ON/OFF pole.  I believe that latest also powered the V regulator and also shut off all power to the regulator& alternator when the key was off vrs when the batteries were off.   

A few thought from a plumber!!   
Title: Re: Alternator/Batteries & "The Basic" 1-2-B Switch BEST Wiring Diagrams
Post by: Ralph Masters on November 17, 2011, 03:40:47 PM
Thanks Ron.

Happy Thanksgiving..................

Ralph
Title: Re: Alternator/Batteries & "The Basic" 1-2-B Switch BEST Wiring Diagrams
Post by: Ken Juul on November 18, 2011, 04:52:51 AM
Here is a diagram of how the boat is currently wired.  As is, if everything works there is no problem and it worked well for the last season or so. Recently my ACR died.  Therefore the start battery was not getting a charge from the alternator.  Because the sense wire stayed at a constant 12.x volts, not the 14.x volts the alt regulator was looking for the regulator just kept upping it's output voltage....I was seeing 16-17 volts at the house battery.

Granted my set up is unique, the house bank is not connected to the starter except in an emergency.  Bottom line, the sense wire must be connected to the battery that the alternator is charging. 

As far the power for the engine instruments.  It can come from either battery.  I knew I was only reading the start battery voltage in the cockpit and was ok with that.  Until the unexpected ACR failure.  I was lucky I caught the high charging voltage before battery damage or worse.  I now think the prudent thing to do is to move the engine instrument power to the bank the alt is charging so it can be monitored in the cockpit when motoring.
Title: Re: Alternator/Batteries & "The Basic" 1-2-B Switch BEST Wiring Diagrams
Post by: mainesail on November 18, 2011, 10:05:22 AM
Ken,

The safest way to wire a "sensing" wire is to run it to the SAME battery that the alternator output is run to. Why? You now know why..  :D

In the event of a failure of a device like an ACR or Echo Charger the house battery will be getting current but the voltage will not be rising thus the regulator thinks nothing is happening and continues to apply max field to the alternator which will eventually blow the voltage through the roof on the house bank because the voltage feedback from the start battery is staying flat and not responding the way the regulator needs it too.

Title: Re: Alternator/Batteries & "The Basic" 1-2-B Switch BEST Wiring Diagrams
Post by: Stu Jackson on November 18, 2011, 06:47:18 PM
Ken,

Me, too!   :shock:

See Reply #17 here:  http://forums.catalina.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?p=846963 (http://forums.catalina.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?p=846963)

Uhm, "tomorrow" never came from that post.  It does, however, remain valid for me, and I am assembling the parts to do the correction.

We have an external Balmar MC-612 regulator for our Blue Circle 100A alternator.

My goal, as stated in that link, is to remove the battery sense wire from the alternator and wire it from the regulator to the house bank.  Please note, however, that the instructions say you can leave it on the AO.  By doing that, I kinda "induced" that 1.2V drop, because the battery sense wire wasn't on the house bank but only on the back of the alternator.

Shoot, I must admit I DID read the instructions!!!   :cry4`  So much for doing THAT anymore...

After repacking my stuffing box and putting in a new bilge pump switch today (F*ck Rule for changing both the height and spacing of the screws to hold the damn thing down!!!), I looked at my records, sketches and wiring diagrams, and know that I have a couple of well labeled and identified abandoned wires that I may be able to use to connect the regulator battery sense post to the house bank and get it off the alternator output (AO).  A month or so ago my son and I attempted to run that new wire I mentioned in that linked post, but the pull cord I cleverly installed a few years ago, underneath the engine from the stuffing box to the area under the galley sink by the hot water heater, was hung up on something and didn't allow us to do it then.

That's why they invented "tomorrow."

So, Ken, then consensus is:  sense the house bank.  Regardless of whether you have external or internal regulation for your alternator.

Thanks so much for pointing this out.

*********************************************

For those of you who "don't do links" (imagine that!), here's what I said:

This is a perfect example of real world issues. Like, take me, for instance!!!

I took the "shortcut" route of having the battery sense wire connected to the AO when I installed our MC-612. As you know, we also have a Link 2000. By habit, I would check the voltage at the regulator, and the amperage at the Link. Always looked fine to me.

Last week, after two grueling days of motoring, I happened to check the voltage at the Link 2000, and GUESS WHAT?!?. I was losing almost that same 1.2 V that Maine Sail described.

Just yesterday (really, honestly ) I bought a length of wire to finally install the battery sense wire to the bloody batteries, just like the instruction manual tells you to do.

I spent a week checking connections and confirming the integrity of my AO wiring, grounds, the shunt - you name it.

I finally came to this same conclusion, and all because: first I'd been lazy in the installation, and second, because while I have great instrumentation, I'd only been using the AO voltage display at the regulator and the amperage at the Link, not reading the voltage at the Link 2000 while the alternator was working - until last week when I thought "Houston, we have a problem!"

The battery sense wire goes in tomorrow.

Too bad there's not a "humble pie" emoticon!!!  YIKES!!!
Title: Re: Alternator/Batteries & "The Basic" 1-2-B Switch BEST Wiring Diagrams
Post by: KWKloeber on January 29, 2019, 09:47:01 AM
A long 'while' ago when I downloaded the pix, I had threatened to make a corrected version of the battery switch sketches posted in reply #20 below.  I just ran across them (forgot about doing it - CRS). If anyone wants a copy PM me and Iíll email them.


Title: Re: Alternator/Batteries & "The Basic" 1-2-B Switch BEST Wiring Diagrams
Post by: Stu Jackson on January 29, 2019, 11:00:33 AM
A 'while' ago I had threatened to fix the battery switch sketches below.  I just ran across them, so here they are a little late.
(referencing reply #20 below.)

The link where I originally posted the diagrams is:  http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,4949.msg30101.html#msg30101

That was in 2009.

I suppose the text from that post that reads as follows may not have been clear enough:  In the diagrams below, please change B to C.  B is a position on the switch, it is NOT a point of wiring connection.  There are three "posts" on the back of the switch: 1, 2 AND C.  There are four positions on the switch: OFF, 1, 2 and BOTH. Thanks.
Title: Re: Alternator/Batteries & "The Basic" 1-2-B Switch BEST Wiring Diagrams
Post by: Stu Jackson on January 29, 2019, 04:34:40 PM
........................and not rely on a (CRS) memory of an obscure correction that I may or may not have read sometime or remembered in the past........................

Yeah, right, obscure.  Sure.  In RED, too.

Thanks for the update.

I can't wait for what's next.  :D
Title: Re: Alternator/Batteries & "The Basic" 1-2-B Switch BEST Wiring Diagrams
Post by: Noah on January 29, 2019, 06:12:09 PM
Letís all play nice... :D
Title: Re: Alternator/Batteries & "The Basic" 1-2-B Switch BEST Wiring Diagrams
Post by: KWKloeber on January 29, 2019, 06:58:16 PM
Noah.
Quite honestly, it really stretches the limits of oneís ability to bite oneís tongue when constantly receiving such a negative attitude toward simply trying to better the info that members (especially newbies) have available to them. It gets old. REAL old. Whether trying to help out Coasties, or explaining why someone isnít being able to sign on, or update incorrect info, or..... 
Iíve revised the post so that the captain ďwins.Ē  No biggie.
Title: Re: Alternator/Batteries
Post by: DaveBMusik on February 03, 2019, 12:08:19 PM
Stu and Ken,

I'm from Connecticut so I'm a just a little far away. When I go down to the boat this weekend I will have to check Ken's thought of "back feeding". I'll let you know what I find.

Thanks for all the help so far.

Gary

Gary,

I'm in Noank if you ever want to take a look at mine or compare notes.

Dave
Title: Re: Alternator/Batteries & "The Basic" 1-2-B Switch BEST Wiring Diagrams
Post by: Paulus on February 04, 2019, 04:07:10 AM
Sometimes a simple "thank you" will do instead of having to rant about a long standing member of this forum and on this forum.
Paul