Catalina 34

General Activities => Main Message Board => Topic started by: waughoo on January 26, 2022, 07:15:26 AM

Title: False high temp readings and engine harness plug
Post by: waughoo on January 26, 2022, 07:15:26 AM
I have been experiencing high engine temp readings of 178 to 190 while at cruiae rpm since I have owned the boat.  After a TON of work replacing hoses, thermostats, raw water pumps etc... I was still having the problem.

After a bunch of messing about, i discovered that jostling the engine wiring plug reaulted in movement of my temp gauge reading at the engine panel.  This plug is called by many names (gummy bear plug, trailer plug, etc) and is called out in the critical updates section of this website as a "repair this or else" item.

Attached are a few photos of what mine looked like when I removed it.
Title: Re: False high temp readings and engine harness plug
Post by: waughoo on January 26, 2022, 07:18:50 AM
This has been solved many ways by different owners over the years.  I happen to like harness plugs as it allows for servicing parts without having to cut and splice electrical connections.  I elected to use Deutsch Connectors for my engine harness.

They have a pin that requires a special crimp tool, but I have installed a lot of these about the boat so I feel pretty good about the purchase.

The pins get crimped to the wire end and then inserted into the plugs and sockets.  There is a locking tab which keeps them from pulling out under strain.
Title: Re: False high temp readings and engine harness plug
Post by: waughoo on January 26, 2022, 07:22:41 AM
There are two different gauge wires used in the harness so I elected to use one plug for the high awg wires and a second plug for the smaller awg sender wires etc.

The finished harness lives nicely under my coolant expansion tank.  The gauge now reads a solid 165 without errant motion.  I am so happy to have sorted out that gremlin!
Title: Re: False high temp readings and engine harness plug
Post by: KWKloeber on January 26, 2022, 07:32:21 AM
Alex do you have a product number for the plug set you used?
Title: Re: False high temp readings and engine harness plug
Post by: waughoo on January 26, 2022, 07:59:17 AM
I used the DTP series Deutsch plug for the 10 gauge 12v, gnd and glow, and a DT series Deutsch plug for the remaining sender connections.
Title: Re: False high temp readings and engine harness plug
Post by: Ron Hill on January 26, 2022, 11:40:56 AM
Alex : Just goes to show - what I've been saying sense 1991 !!!!!!   

Like I've also mentioned it is easier to just skip any plugs and hard wiring - unless you plan on removing your engine!?!

A few thoughts
Title: Re: False high temp readings and engine harness plug
Post by: waughoo on January 26, 2022, 12:33:45 PM
Yep... it has been said many times and many ways.  Just adding my experience to the pile.

Also, I happen to prefer harness plugs.  Sometimes being able to quickly disconnect slmething allows access to something else
I am working on in the area.  What is it that's said on here all the time... YBYC?
Title: Re: False high temp readings and engine harness plug
Post by: KWKloeber on January 26, 2022, 01:44:27 PM
I think the Deutsch contacts are rated at 25a, but I've heard from a couple owners that with GPs energized they measured the draw at ~30 amp.
Might want to verify that?

Note also that the "current" (uuugh) standard is to use heavy gauge (I use 10) on the S wire (minimize V loss to the solenoid.)
Title: Re: False high temp readings and engine harness plug
Post by: waughoo on January 26, 2022, 04:02:06 PM
Ken,

I figured you were asking with that in mind.  The DTP connectors are rated for 25amps.  I feel like I looked up the GP current at the time I made the selection for the plug, but now can't recall.  Worst case, I could switch to relays for the GP circuit.  I have a clamp on meter and will see what I draw on the GP.

I noticed that the CD panels had a #10 for the start solenoid.  It seems rather strange in that the start circuit is already a solenoid circuit, but it couldn't hurt.  The boat had the old wiring standard with a #10 to send the alt current up to the panel and back down, but it had already been bypassed by a previous owner who installed an external regulator.  The #10 is still in the harness so I could just re-purpose that #10 for the start solenoid.  I could then use the old start solenoid wire to provide the high temp alarm switch I want to add.  CHOICES!!
Title: Re: False high temp readings and engine harness plug
Post by: KWKloeber on January 27, 2022, 09:16:09 AM
Alex
I always thought the GP current should be 18v (6x3) but an owner with brand new NGK plugs it was much higher.  It will be interesting to see what you read (of course amps depend on btty voltage as well.)  Maybe current varies with temp?

What meter do you have -- I got a Craftsman that does DC amps but the display essentially sucks.
Pet peeve: why do manufacturers continue to call them clamp-ON meters?  They are clamp-AROUND meters!!
Title: Re: False high temp readings and engine harness plug
Post by: waughoo on January 27, 2022, 09:25:33 AM
I have a Fluke "clamp around" meter.  I it will prob be tested while the boat is plugged into shore power so the btty V will be at their highest possible voltage.  I will try and remember to do that when I am at the boat again over the next few days.
Title: Re: False high temp readings and engine harness plug
Post by: waughoo on February 01, 2022, 01:36:22 PM
Ken,

Whep... you were right on the current draw on the glow plugs.  The meter says 42amps for about a second or two and then it slowly drops to about 37 in say 15 or so seconds.  I guess the relay mod is in my near future as the Deutsch connectors I installed aren't rated for anything that high.

Also, I found out my fluke meter doesn't do DC amps.  Thus the Klein pictured. Now I have a good dedicated meter for the boat at least.  The Fluke was from my home shop.
Title: Re: False high temp readings and engine harness plug
Post by: Ron Hill on February 01, 2022, 02:07:28 PM
Guys : Another false high temp reading  -  Will be caused if the metallic covering on the engine cover insolation happens to touch the unprotected temp connection on the thermostat!!!!

That's a reason to install a protective boot on that connection!!

A few thoughts
Title: Re: False high temp readings and engine harness plug
Post by: KWKloeber on February 01, 2022, 04:11:15 PM
Alex

THANKS for that info.

WOW 40 amps is crazy.  That's sure not what I had read on (some; somewhere) NGK's datasheet on those plugs.   Of course, the data would have been at 10 volts.  I bet with a slave relay they'll pull 50+ amps.

I wonder if your plugs are rated 25 disconnect amps (as switch contacts are) or continuous current? 

As I always said, adding complexity (e.g., plug connections) can lead to other unintended complexity/potential failures. 

Man, that display looks BOSS.  MUCH better than my crappy Craftsman display where you cannot read any Mode functions because they are so small.  A Klein might be in my future if nothing else because they label it a "clamp meter."
Title: Re: False high temp readings and engine harness plug
Post by: waughoo on February 01, 2022, 08:08:37 PM
Ken,

This boat has the 4 cylinder m35.  One extra gloplug is likely to significantly increase the draw.  I too was quite surprised. 

This Klein was a home depot purchase.  I was quite pleased with the display as well.  It is completely black and only lights the segments.  It is much easier to read than even a standard LCD display with the grey background.  The price was only about 90 ish something dollars.  Seemed pretty reasonable to me.

I know you aren't particulary fond of the additional complexity of the relay mod, but if you HAD to install ome for an insistant customer, do you have a spec you would suggest?  I am thinking of something with a pre made waterproof harness from the automotive sector, but want something with tinned wire.
Title: Re: False high temp readings and engine harness plug
Post by: KWKloeber on February 01, 2022, 09:47:37 PM
[EDITED]

OHHHH,  D'oh. 
An extra cylinder certainly makes more sense. 
It was a C30 w/ 3 cyls that read 30-ish, so 40-ish makes sense now.

I did one for a C30-er (3-cyl) - I like the socket for a standard 4001 headlight relay,  with a standard 40-amp continuous-duty headlight relay.  I used 10-ga wiring for the power leads (16? or 14? for the relay trigger.)  I couldn't find exactly what I wanted so just ordered in the socket, terminals (open barrel crimp type) and made it up.  I also like that a socket meant to be hard-mounted, the relay is simply a pop-out/pop-in, easy to replace with a spare.  Hella makes 50-amp relay for the 4001 socket configuration.

There's stuff on the wiki 'bout using 8-ga for GP power, which I think is crazily unnecessary since 10-ga is good for 50 amp in the engine compartment and you're talking only a couple of feet (v loss).


something like this looks promising but the relay (not socket) is hard-mounted.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/232973683131

Seems to be a discrepancy re: whether the relay is 50-amp rated (listing vs datasheet for resistive load.)
Title: Re: False high temp readings and engine harness plug
Post by: waughoo on February 01, 2022, 11:02:43 PM
I tool like the idea of an easy to swap relay install.  Also allows for jumper activation in the event of failure far from home.

I like this idea, but it seems a bit overkill (though that is how I do most things anyway...)

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Single-70-Amp-Relay-Module,404373.html?sku=91003048&utm_medium=CSEGoogle&utm_source=CSE&utm_campaign=CSEGOOGLE&gclid=Cj0KCQiA0eOPBhCGARIsAFIwTs4HBXAY7iF0jLDsmkTfLG37Syeq9TYvCKaSbROc8H-QO6aJq5B51UYaAh7CEALw_wcB
Title: Re: False high temp readings and engine harness plug
Post by: KWKloeber on February 02, 2022, 09:14:55 AM
Alex that looks like it deserves the Lurch neat, sweet, petite award.  Very nice that it uses screw terminals rather than quick disconnects.

With the fuse, it seems perfect (subject of course to proven longevity?)

(https://isteam.wsimg.com/ip/910dce42-212f-4dbb-819e-764633e053c2/ols/166_original/:/rs=w:300,h:300)

Note that I haven't yet seen those who tout the GP relay mod, to also caution that one then needs to install an additional fuse in the circuit!!  (more complexity, more unanticipated issues.)

IIWMRelay, for simplicity I would jumper the relay V+ screw to the B+ post and fire the relay using a negative wire.

"Interestingly" I ran across a 4001 relay that is bluetooth -- so long as the relay has power it can be fired via bluetooth.  I bought a small RF, remote-activated relay unit to be able to turn on my spreader lights before boarding (dock is typically pitch dark with blown-out bulbs.)  It isn't perfect (requires not misremembering to leave the FOB in the car, etc.)  That li'l relay box might get a stamp of approval if it works with the bluetooth relay.
Title: Re: False high temp readings and engine harness plug
Post by: waughoo on February 02, 2022, 11:58:23 AM
Ken,

Sounds like the solution for me then.  As for switching the wiring around to connect the negative on contact closure, I am not sure I will go that route simply because it will require some fiddling at the gauge panel to rewire it.

As you were explaining the bluetooth relay, I though, REALLY?!?? From Ken?  Then you exained your use case, and I thought, Brilliant!  I have always wanted something similar for returning to an anchored boat in the dark.  Dinghy disenbarkments under those circumstances are challenging at best!
Title: Re: False high temp readings and engine harness plug
Post by: KWKloeber on February 03, 2022, 09:26:22 AM
Quote from: waughoo on February 02, 2022, 11:58:23 AM
Ken,

Sounds like the solution for me then.  As for switching the wiring around to connect the negative on contact closure, I am not sure I will go that route simply because it will require some fiddling at the gauge panel to rewire it.

As you were explaining the bluetooth relay, I though, REALLY?!?? From Ken?  Then you exained your use case, and I thought, Brilliant!  I have always wanted something similar for returning to an anchored boat in the dark.  Dinghy disenbarkments under those circumstances are challenging at best!

Alex

Here's the relay.... (and apparently it can flash and dim too!!  A light show LOL)
https://triggercontroller.com/trigger-one-bluetooth-relay/

Using a V- trigger for the glow plug relay requires only to unscrew at its source the wire that feeds the preheat switch (it originates either at the key switch or the start switch depending on your panel) and move it to a ground terminal (a gauge or tach Neg post.)  EZ-PEAZY     At worst you'd need to make up a longer wire w/ two yellow #8 post ring terminals.  That's simpler than running a separate ground to the relay box (less complex, fewer wires/connections = better.)

You'd want to slide some HST onto the wire at both ends as an indicator that it's not a V+ lead.  I don't think ABYC has a standard for a V- control wire - so IIWMWire, I'd use yellow HST and put a black stripe on it.

BTW I don't mind adding the "complexity" of the spreader light trigger because (a) there's no other way to accomplish the goal (unlike the glowplugs) and (b) it's not a Class-A critical function (e.g., starting circuit) if it fails.
Title: Re: False high temp readings and engine harness plug
Post by: waughoo on February 03, 2022, 10:03:40 AM
Ken,

True... it isnt that hard to switch it to negative trigger.  I guess I am just being lazy.  I do have the glo plugs on the key switch.  Does that have a isolated contact for the glo activation or does it just use the 12v supply already into the switch for the ignition power?

Also, I am thinking about swapping the starter trigger wire (12awg currently in my panel) with the glow wire (#10) so my starter circuit matches the current spec and i can reduce the size of the trigger wire on the GP circuit since it will now be on a relay.  Thoughts?
Title: Re: False high temp readings and engine harness plug
Post by: KWKloeber on February 03, 2022, 10:41:26 AM
Quote from: waughoo on February 03, 2022, 10:03:40 AM

Ken,

True... it isnt that hard to switch it to negative trigger.  I guess I am just being lazy.  I do have the glo plugs on the key switch.  Does that have a isolated contact for the glo activation or does it just use the 12v supply already into the switch for the ignition power?

Also, I am thinking about swapping the starter trigger wire (12awg currently in my panel) with the glow wire (#10) so my starter circuit matches the current spec and i can reduce the size of the trigger wire on the GP circuit since it will now be on a relay.  Thoughts?


With the GP on the key sw, it uses its internal V+ bus and connects it to the external "I" (ignition, momentary contact) terminal (#8 screw) It's not an isolated contact (there's just one V+ wire going to the key switch.)

So ahhh ha :shock: I see the issue.  I was thinking that you had the separate pushbutton GP switch.  Tsk tsk, Catalina -- that setup w/ GPs on the key sw is not very smart - most key sws are not meant for high amps, especially on a 4 cylinder. 

Unless there was rewiring I'd think that your "S" wire (starter solenoid; yellow/red stripe?) is 16 AWG.  That was the Universal standard for the engine harness way back when and as far as I've seen CTY/Seaward used the same gauge down from the panel to the engine gummy bear plug.

IIWMB, I would use the PB start sw for my GPs and the key Sw to start.  That's how my panel is OEM (except a toggle sw not PB for the GPs.)
i.e., move the "S" wire from the PB switch to the"I" terminal of the key sw.
move the GP wire (gray, white, brown?) from the "I" terminal to the PB switch.
Remove the V+ feed to the PB sw (wherever it originates, probably the B+ terminal on the key sw) and move it to a Neg post (again might need a longer pigtail.)
Mark the old S wire (now GP wire) w/ yellow HST and a Sharpie black stripe.
Mark the old GP wire (now S wire) w/ yellow HST and a Sharpie red stripe.

OR, just fire the relay w/ the key sw?  The relay must be w/in 7" of the V+ source you use for the GPs otherwise you need to add a fuse on that (so therefore the relay should be close enough that running a Neg for the coil isn't that long.)
Title: Re: False high temp readings and engine harness plug
Post by: waughoo on February 03, 2022, 08:17:18 PM
All fantastic points Ken.  Thanks for thinking it through with me.  I have ordered one of thoae fancy relay sets I SHOULD be able to get it close enough in the engine bay to meet the 7" requirement (usimg the onboard relay board fuse).  For simplicity sake, I plan to fire the relay with the key switch.  If I am feeling "crazy" I might swap the GP wire for the start solenoid wire to meet the new spec for the start circuit.
Title: Re: False high temp readings and engine harness plug
Post by: waughoo on February 18, 2022, 07:05:37 PM
I got the relay module today.  In talking with the mfg who makes these as orders come in, he has PURPOSELY made the relays not swapable.  The whole circuit board is potted in an epoxy like substance.  He indicated that it is the blade connectors that eventually wear and cause a relay to fail.  He can say it better than I so I will copy his email below.

------------
No they do not plug in. That's why they hold up so much better.
I've had several customers over the years ask why the relays are not user replaceable on my relay boards. The reason is that almost all relay failures are due to them being plugged in a socket. Sockets get dirty and corrode over time which in turn causes heat to generate in the plug contacts. This heat get worse and worse over time till it overheats the relays and contacts and either damages the relay or burns up the connectors. All of my boards uses industrial relays that are soldered to the circuit boards and meant to last over a million cycles. I've used over 100,000 of these relays and to this date have never had an actual relay fail. I've warranty replaced only 4 relays and that was only because of physical damage to the outside of the relay. And any other issues have been input or board
related. My products are fully warrantied. So if one did ever go out I can replace it. But that would be extremely rare.

----------

It appears as though he has developed this product after many years of them being in service and designing the troubles out of them.  I look forward to getting this installed!
Title: Re: False high temp readings and engine harness plug
Post by: KWKloeber on February 19, 2022, 11:46:17 AM
Alex

Looks like a nice well-built unit - but based on experience I vehemently disagree w/ his concept where and why relays normally fail.

The rear wiper pooched on my Grand Caravan.  What did I trace it to?  A relay! 
Not one of the handful of the terrible plug-in ones in the power center -- but a soldered in relay on the PCB board, buried under everything in the power center.  What a stooopd design that is. 

BUMMER.  His design negates all the "back up benefit" of a simple, plug-in, instant, replacement.  I wonder if his warranty covers incidental damage if it fails when we'd most need it for an emergency start?  I'd make up at least a jumper to clip on or a permanent panic button (and mount it very accessible.)
Title: Re: False high temp readings and engine harness plug
Post by: waughoo on February 19, 2022, 12:41:47 PM
He claims he has only replaced them for mechanical damage rather than use failure.  The fact that the terminals are right there on the front makes it super easy to jumper the connection and activate the glow plug circuit.  Seems pretty reasonable to me.  The robustness of the rest of the board makes me feel pretty confident it will perform for many years without incident.
Title: Re: False high temp readings and engine harness plug
Post by: KWKloeber on February 19, 2022, 12:48:48 PM
....OR use the dual relay version and there's the backup already installed; just move the trigger wire from one to the other.  Unfortunately, they're quick disconnects but the world isn't perfect.
Title: Re: False high temp readings and engine harness plug
Post by: waughoo on March 06, 2022, 09:54:46 PM
Relay got installed today.  I wired it up with a #8 from the starter lug, and two #10s to the glow plugs (one at each end of the run of 4).  I decided on two #10s as everything I could find said #10 was on the small side for the 45amps I measured when testing the glow plugs.

While I was at it, I added the engine ground buss with a #6 from the lower starter bolt.  I then moved the ground wires from the exhaust manifold to the ground buss.  All seems to be working fine.  I am quite happy with the relay module.
Title: Re: False high temp readings and engine harness plug
Post by: KWKloeber on March 06, 2022, 11:11:47 PM
Quote from: waughoo on March 06, 2022, 09:54:46 PM
Relay got installed today.  I wired it up with a #8 from the starter lug, and two #10s to the glow plugs (one at each end of the run of 4).  I decided on two #10s as everything I could find said #10 was on the small side for the 45amps I measured when testing the glow plugs.

While I was at it, I added the engine ground buss with a #6 from the lower starter bolt.  I then moved the ground wires from the exhaust manifold to the ground buss.  All seems to be working fine.  I am quite happy with the relay module.

Sweet.  :thumb: :thumb: :clap :clap

'Fresh my memory - have you moved the bty cable to the starter bolt?
The Neg block can be used for other negatives as well (to eliminate runs to the panel.)

Inside the engine compartment 10 awg is good for 51 amp; 8 awg 68 amp.

Title: Re: False high temp readings and engine harness plug
Post by: waughoo on March 07, 2022, 07:21:02 AM
When you ask about the battery cable, are you asking about the negative or the possitive? 

The negative cable presently resides on the bell housing bolt right behind the starter.  It occured to me that perhaps moving that to the same bolt on the starter that I took the #6 ground buss wire from would be the best idea.  My reason for not doing it that day had a lot to do with time and the length of the starter bolt.  I was concerned I wouldn't have enough bite for the starter threads without getting a longer bolt at the hardware store.

I cpuldn't find an inline ATC fuse  holder with #10 tinned wire at the marine store so I have to order one so I can complete the engine harness wiring protection.  Otherwise, I believe I can mostly check this area off the list.

As for wiring gauge sizes, I was using the blue seas chart at the 10% allowable drop.  They wanted #8 for 50amps.  I did see somewhere on WM a chart that #10 was okay for 50 amps but couldn't cooberate that with any other resource so I opted for the double run of #10.  Is there a chart you use Ken?
Title: Re: False high temp readings and engine harness plug
Post by: KWKloeber on March 07, 2022, 09:37:55 AM
Alex.  Abbreviated answers

Negative, its been posted on here b4 (Rod and I) about doing that.  Yes if you have multiple lugs you'd need a longer (M8) bolt.

I'm looking at 50 ATCs on my table if you cant find what you want. Which location is this for?

The BS V loss chart is based on the copper, the ampacity rating is based on the insulation (how many electrons can be pushed thru it b4 it melts.

Yes, charts from ABYC.  I'll post it.
Title: Re: False high temp readings and engine harness plug
Post by: waughoo on March 07, 2022, 09:58:26 AM
I think I have a source for the ATC fuse with 10awg tinned.  That is for protecting the harness wiring for the panel which came unprotected from new. 

Your and Rod's articles are what I have been using to guid this section of the project.  I will move that negative with a replacement longer starter bolt probably when I do the harmess fuse install.

I look forward to seeing your chart for wire gauge.  Thanks for all your input on this project.  It has been very much appreciated.
Title: Re: False high temp readings and engine harness plug
Post by: KWKloeber on March 07, 2022, 12:37:28 PM
Alex

Unless you have a lug crimper you can't *properly* do the fuse there.
An M8 (5/16") ring terminal is crap to use, especially if it's Ancor brand, which are inferior compared to FTZ (likewise Ancor lugs.)  Regardless of the brand, the ring is too thin and there's very little meat left with a 5/16" hole.  I use ONLY an M8 lug there because the ring terminal can eventually fail. 
Go big or go home. 

If you don't have a lug crimper PM me your addy and I'll send you a fuse setup.
Title: Re: False high temp readings and engine harness plug
Post by: waughoo on March 07, 2022, 12:50:20 PM
I know what you mean regarding how thin the material gets with those larger hole sizes.  I do have a lug crimper but I still have to order the fuse anyway.  I am open to buying a whole set up from you.  Check your messages.
Title: Re: False high temp readings and engine harness plug
Post by: KWKloeber on March 07, 2022, 07:34:23 PM
Alex, Got it!
You can't buy one, but you can owe me a boat ride.
Title: Re: False high temp readings and engine harness plug
Post by: waughoo on March 07, 2022, 09:44:37 PM
It's a deal Ken!

***edit***

Ken... the fuse would actually go on the starter possitive lug.  I cant remember if that is 5/16 or smaller.
Title: Re: False high temp readings and engine harness plug
Post by: Ron Hill on March 08, 2022, 02:32:37 PM
Alex : On the M25XP I believe that lug is larger than 1/4".  Don't know about the M35 engine.

A thought
Title: Re: False high temp readings and engine harness plug
Post by: KWKloeber on March 08, 2022, 03:51:39 PM
Quote from: Ron Hill on March 08, 2022, 02:32:37 PM

Alex : On the M25XP I believe that lug is 1/4".  Don't know about the M35 engine.


@Ron et al

On all the "non-B" and "non-A" engines the "B" terminal on the starter solenoid is an M8 post (~5/16").

I suspect but am not 100%, that on "A" and "B" engines the feed to the panel (from the 20a breaker) is a 1/4" terminal.

@ Alex
I attached the ABYC ampacity tables.  Note that when entering the tables I have never seen any "marine wire" (Ancor, Pacer, etc.) that is other than 105C insulation (although naturally other wire could be used.)

-Ken
Title: Re: False high temp readings and engine harness plug
Post by: waughoo on March 08, 2022, 08:18:50 PM
As always... thanks for the info and assistance Ken.
Title: Re: False high temp readings and engine harness plug
Post by: girmann on March 16, 2022, 04:07:55 AM
I did a similar repair on my C28, and it's very satisfying. I went with the mounted blue sea connectors instead of the ones you used here. Some idea, though. I know that you'd only disconnect the wiring harness in the engine bay if you were going to disconnect the engine, but I felt like it gave me a way to isolate things if I had to troubleshoot. Never needed to, though. My biggest issue was that the harness had clearly been changed before because the wiring wasn't tinned marine wire.
Title: Re: False high temp readings and engine harness plug
Post by: KWKloeber on March 16, 2022, 07:24:57 AM
Quote from: girmann on March 16, 2022, 04:07:55 AM

the harness had clearly been changed before because the wiring wasn't tinned marine wire[/b].


Just to clarify about what was used OEM - neither Universal (OEM engine harness) nor Catalina/Seaward (panel and harness extension) used Type III (fine stranded,) tinned "marine" wire or "marine" terminals.

Apparently the concept of Catalinas being floating RVs was taken a step too far!  :rolling :shock:

Universal STILL uses untinned, Type II (stiff "auto wire") harnesses and Dennis (former Seaward) STILL uses "auto" terminals on engine panels for CatDirect.

Quality Penny pinching is Job 1.
Title: Re: False high temp readings and engine harness plug
Post by: girmann on March 16, 2022, 10:26:21 AM
Whoa. Seriously? I thought that was part of the wiring standard. Go figure.

Someone from the C28 IA thought that the hull had been hit by lightning at some point and they replaced the wiring. Good to know that wasn't the case?

I ripped it all out and replaced it with the right stuff on the C28. Now you're telling me I'm going to have to do the same with my C34!

Mark
1488
Title: Re: False high temp readings and engine harness plug
Post by: KWKloeber on March 16, 2022, 10:49:06 AM
Seriously.
What standard?  ABYC?  Certainly not CTY standard!
ABYC is a voluntary standard. 
Title: Re: False high temp readings and engine harness plug
Post by: waughoo on March 16, 2022, 10:21:24 PM
My favorite CTY "standard" were the inline tap and splice connectors I found on the lighting circuit and ground wire for each cabin light.  Unfortunately, that ground wire is also the ground for the NAV lights :-(

Example of what I found:
https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/43590769