Finally tackled this project on my MKII and I think this document might be helpful to motivate others to do the same. :clap
See link to PDF for a mostly pictures description of how I did it. I tried to upload PDF but it was a little larger than the 1024KB limit per file... :shock:
https://robertgiroux.com/downloads/Mounting%20a%20Raymarine%20Rudder%20Position%20Sensor%20(C34%20MKII).pdf
The pdf is clear and well done. The install process is simpler than I expected, especially with the angle drill you used.
Assuming you have an Evolution wheel pilot, and after you use it a few times, please reply with what and how much improvement you find with autopilot tracking. Does it greatly improve tracking in moderate seas while running downwind and on a broad reach?
Thanks, I will definitely report back on if, and how well, it improves the auto-pilot performance.
I have the Raymarine Evolution EV-100 Wheel Autopilot Pack w/ P70s Control Head purchased 12/12/2020.
Great write up Robert. I did this about 3 months ago and did remove the water tank for access, which I had previously removed when I replaced all my fresh water hoses. The pain there is I had to remove the steering pulleys to get the tank past them.
I also have the EVO 100 wheel pilot. I do notice it hunts a lot less than it use to. In the past it would occasionally get into an oscillation where it would over correct itself and by the time it realized it, it was overcompensated the other way. I haven't noticed that, but I've only had it out a few times with the rudder reference installed.
I am working on this right now. I was able to get the water tank out with the pulleys in place. I didn't look to see if you have a mk2 though. Perhaps they are different.
My instructions, particularly the positioning of the sensor is specific to the MKII. But one takeaway I didn't emphasize but should have is that the Raymarine instructions only show one way to align the sensor axis with the rudder axis (in a U), but there is also the possibility to align it as I have Like this:
o
|_
|
o
Quoteplease reply with what and how much improvement you find with autopilot tracking. Does it greatly improve tracking in moderate seas while running downwind and on a broad reach?
I installed the EVO 100 wheel pilot and rudder position sensor a few seasons ago. Works well 90%+ of the time. As I mostly single hand it gets a lot of use. When it doesn't want to track well, if it isn't too bad, I put up with the bad tracking for a while. I believe the autopilot does some auto processing and sometimes will improve with time ie a few minutes. Sail trim is important. About running downwind. There was a time last season, had the asymmetrical spinnaker up for 4 hours and the autopilot worked great. Wind was 10-15 true aft of beam with 2-3 foot sea. Great sailing.
QuoteThe pain there is I had to remove the steering pulleys to get the tank past them.
Wasn't necessary on Shamrock a MKll.
Robert,
Excellent write up. Wish I would have had the right angle drill when I did mine. I pre-drilled a block then 5200 it in place. Worked but not as precise.
Jim
Quote from: Robert Giroux on January 03, 2022, 04:56:45 AM
My instructions, particularly the positioning of the sensor is specific to the MKII. But one takeaway I didn't emphasize but should have is that the Raymarine instructions only show one way to align the sensor axis with the rudder axis (in a U), but there is also the possibility to align it as I have Like this:
o
|_
|
o
I had initially considered this orientation as it would GREATLY simplify the installation. However, I felt that it would not give linear results to rudder's position. Thus, I am in the process of locating a place to adhere a mounting block to the underside of the cockpit in line with the rudder post to provide a more parallel installation of the sensor. I figure if I'm going to bother to go this far, I want it to be installed as close to the way Raymarine set up the hardware/software interface to be.
Quote from: waughoo on January 03, 2022, 02:05:20 PM
I had initially considered this orientation as it would GREATLY simplify the installation. However, I felt that it would not give linear results to rudder's position. Thus, I am in the process of locating a place to adhere a mounting block to the underside of the cockpit in line with the rudder post to provide a more parallel installation of the sensor. I figure if I'm going to bother to go this far, I want it to be installed as close to the way Raymarine set up the hardware/software interface to be.
Alex, you should reconsider this option. It is absolutely equivalent to what Raymarine advises. The geometry is the same. All that matters is the the arms are parallel and the connector is at 90 degrees to both arms. After I did mine, I went looking for confirmation of this and found in on Mainsail's website. I was actually pretty stoked to see he even used the same plastic for mounting to the radial wheel. https://marinehowto.com/installing-an-autopilot-rudder-position-sensor/
Wish I had a right angle drill when I installed mine! I've had the EV-100 with rudder sensor for two seasons and it''s much better than the Autohelm 4000 it replaced.
Here's a video (https://youtu.be/jfJoUUpDANs (https://youtu.be/jfJoUUpDANs)) of me sailing as far down wind as I could to give you an idea of my experience. Winds in this video were down from 20 knots earlier. With early reefing it's able to hold the boat on course while doing close to hull speed on a reach/broad reach.
Looks good, the differences between the Mk1 and MkII stand out. Not sure if we could remove our Water tank without surgery.
Had the opportunity to actually use our EV-100 Wheel pilot upgrade this past weekend. The responsiveness compared to the old Raymarine Wheel pilot is amazing and I believe that it's the Rudder Position Sensor that made a big difference.
Paul
Quote from: britinusa on January 05, 2022, 07:18:13 AM
Looks good, the differences between the Mk1 and MkII stand out. Not sure if we could remove our Water tank without surgery.
Paul
Paul— the MK1 water tank comes out WITHOUT surgery. My procedure is:
1. Drain tank
2. Remove fiberglass cover over idler wheels
3. Remove fuel tank bulkhead and aft bulkhead
4. Disconnect fill, vent, and discharge hoses
5. Pull slack forward out of engine throttle and kill cables (worst case scenario is you MAY have to disconnect from engine—mine have slack.
6. Lift tank above fiberglass tray lip. Takes a bit of fiddling.
7. Angle Starboard side forward and Portside aft, and slide tank out to starboard
You may get a little water spillage out the bottom, as it is hard to drain 100% i alway bung up the holes with tapered wood plugs so I don't get much water.
Thanks Robert. I bought the rudder sensor 3 years ago but couldn't for the life of me see how to mount it. Now I have your PDF and I'll get at it as soon as the cover comes off.
Just following up on this post as I have finally managed to get out sailing. I have to say the rudder reference has definitively solved the problem I was having with the wheel pilot. The air was fairly light this past weekend, not exceeding 15 knots upwind and on returning was around 10 knots at 120o. The pilot never lost it's way, where it would have previously pendulum-ed to an ever increasing zigzag course, it stayed true. Very happy!
Excellent news! I still havent sailed my install yet as there are other projects afoot. I am excited to try it out!!
Robert.
I see you used starboard as an adapter plate. But do you feel it's strong enough? There's a lot of force with that autopilot system. Just curious.
Roc-
Roc— I believe he used Starboard for the rudder sensor attachment, which is electronic, and and has little to no forces involved to move it.
That's correct Noah, the sensor is basically a potentiometer and while spring-loaded doesn't off much stress on the attached arm and ball joint screwed to the starboard.
Hi All, Just finished the installation of my new autopilot on our Mk 1.5 and adding the rudder sensor was the challenging aspect. Thanks to all the postings on that subject that guided me through this project. Like Robert, I wanted to avoid removing the water tank. To get the sensor position at the ideal 5.5inch position, I had to install a small interpose plate glued with thick epoxy. Getting this leveled was challenging and I use a Car jack sitting on top of the water tank to glue it up. All good with dock calibration completed. Sea trial this weekend.
Francois Pelletier, San Diego, CA
S/V Whitecaps
Mk 1.5 Hull #1292
:clap Looks great, excellent use of a car jack!
Looks very similar to how I set mine up. Glad to see more folks completing this step on a wheel pilot.