Figured I'd started a thread to compile all the different project into one place, I'll probably sit down and add links to the various threads I started previously here.
Bottom job is done, painted and ready to go. This week is just final assembly of all essential systems before I get back in the water on Friday.
The boat had several blisters that needed attention and as previously stated in another thread I eliminated some thru hulls and relocated others.
More pictures
Painting
More pics
Looking forward to updates to this thread. I have considered doing one for my boat as well (called a build thread in the car forum world). I would enjoy sharing it and likely it would result in some discussion. Please keep your photos coming.
great pics and updates, keep 'em coming.
New prop (Campbell sailor, D14 RH P8), new zincs, new SS coupling, new R&D flexible coupling.
All new Trudesign ball valves with load bearing collars.
Today I'm working on putting the rudder back on and re assembling the steering system. Custom top rudder bearing going in, setting it down on a bead of thickened epoxy just so it sits perfectly flush and square to the rudder stock.
Knowing what is entailed in all that work, I'm going to go take 4 ibuprofen--and maybe crack a beer-- just looking at your photos.
Looks good.
Patches
Antoni : I noted your prop 14"diameter 8" pitch - if I read it correctly. Why didn't you go to a 15" D & 10" P ?
Just off hand the cord surface area looks to be much less than the Catalina Sailor prop.
A thought
It was a recommendation from Campbell sailor, I tested the prop last season and it performed very well.
All ball valves installed today.
Rudder and steering system back together today, couple of hiccups but all worked out in the end. Thickened epoxy cured over night, now I have a base that is square to the rudder shaft and the top collar that holds the rudder in place was also turned on a lathe to be perfectly square to the shaft. Radial drive installed and steering cables attached and tensioned. The rudder feels amazing, 200% smoother than before and I have no rudder play.
Nice work! I forgot where I read this, but I think you should put your shaft zincs closer to the skeg.
Fair point! I'll move them tomorrow. I looked it up and it's suggested to place them forward of the strut with enough room for water flow to the cutlass bearing.
Curiousity struck me so i went looking for an answer as tk why they should be close to the strut and found this. Seems pretty logical to me.
From a post on Cruiser's Forum (see link to full topic below):
---------
The zinc should be placed just a few inches forward of the strut, leaving only enough room between the strut and the zinc to allow water flow through your cutlass bearing. The density of zinc's is not uniform and if mounted midway between the strut and shaft log (where the shaft penetrates the hull) may have a tendancy to cause the shaft to vibrate in the manner of an unbalanced tire, particularly if there is a fairly long run between hull and strut.
---------------
https://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f114/where-to-put-zinc-on-prop-shaft-32475.html#:~:text=The%20zinc%20should%20be%20placed,flow%20through%20your%20cutlass%20bearing.
Here's a pic of my zinc after two years. I'm thinking another one would be cheap insurance.
I'm also wondering if I should install one on the skeg while on the hard this spring. PO didn't have one on the skeg.
Does it specifically protect the skeg or is is just additional protection? (I probably just answered my own question)
QuoteThe zinc should be placed just a few inches forward of the strut
Someplace I've read that it's recommended to put a zinc so that it will act as a stop in case of a coupling failure to prevent the prop from fouling/jamming the rudder. If there's enough room can add one before the shaft log. Years ago a dockmate had his shaft slide from the coupling and jam his rudder hard over. A lot of damage as I remember. My thinking is why not add that little bit of belt and suspender. Still check coupling at least once a season.
Jim
Ready to hit the water!!! Splashing tomorrow at 8am.
Dig the keel "pound sign". Im getting close to my launch date as well. Cant wait!!
We are floating!!!
I cannot lie.......I'm a bit jelly. :thumb:
How exciting. I just scheduled my launch for April 1st.
I only forgot to put a set screw for the cutlass bearing and move the zincs closer to the prop strut. I'll have to dive under and take care of it at the marina. Other than that we got the mast stays evenly adjusted and got the engine running (bled the cooling system after reinstalling the heat exchanger).
Quote from: LogoFreak on February 26, 2021, 08:43:16 AM
We are floating!!!
looks good and definitely a bit jealous! I'm shooting for an April 5 launch.
Out on the water, 35nm journey back to our marina.
Antoni : If that is a "Rubber Ducky" transmission shifter in your last picture - there are numerous articles on why you need to change it ASAP!! :shock:
A thought
Already on order! The throttle is actually already broken.
In her slip :clap
Very cool spot!! Do you have in mast furling?
Is there an eye strap or pad eye bolted to your bow at the boot stripe?
Quote from: waughoo on March 06, 2021, 08:29:57 PM
Very cool spot!! Do you have in mast furling?
Yes I do, it was a retrofit, technically it's a behind the mast furling. Works quite well but I haven't really had the chance to sail with it much yet.
Quote from: Jon W on March 06, 2021, 08:48:00 PM
Is there an eye strap or pad eye bolted to your bow at the boot stripe?
Yes, I installed a U-bolt when I was at the boat yard. I'm going to be building a bowsprit for a gennaker and code 0 and wanted an attachment point for a bob stay.
Logo!!!
Where have you been? I want to hear about your refit post launch and as well the below deck auto pilot. Hope you've been busy sailing and thats why we havent seen updates. Hope all is well.
Indeed! Busy AF LOL.
Been working on a bunch of things all at the same time so not many things to show, but yesterday I was able to bring my proof of concept to the boat and install it. Check it out!
Two more i70s displays are coming to fill those holes. On either side there's USB-C/USB-A charging ports as well. I temporarily installed the chart plotter on the cabin top. I sail a lot with autopilot on and am almost never behind the wheel so moving it from the pedestal made sense to me.
Next step in going to be to make that into the bottom of the dodger, eventually I want to build a hard dodger so this is a good start.
I'm working on the autopilot as well, I'll take some pics when I'm on the boat this weekend, show you what I've settled on.
Very cool on the gauges. I have wanted to do something like that. Where/how do you plan to route the wiring? That is the part I struggle with, as there does not seem to be a clean way to get it from there to a wire chase.
Have you considered mounting the chart plotter at the navigation station and using a tablet as a repeater in the cockpit?
Yes I've considered it, haven't ruled it out completely yet, however I'm never at the chart table and I already have a 32" screen down below as a chart plotter.
It is like the inflight map for anyone interested down below!!
Me either. Two of the questions I asked myself when I added Raymarine electronics were even with a bimini, dodger, and connector do I want to plot a course in the weather, and do I want to run more or less wire? I decided out of the weather and less wire. From the chart plotter at the navigation station I ran one seaTalkng cable to the helm instrument pod for the i70, and a spur cable inside the pod to the i60. I use a 10" tablet as a repeater attached to a Ram Mount under the dodger or a second one near the helm. YBYC as they say.
Quote from: waughoo on April 16, 2021, 08:22:46 AM
It is like the inflight map for anyone interested down below!!
LOL! In the near future there's an AR kit coming, so I will also have a video feed ponying forward. I can run down to make myself a sandwich and still see what's happening outside :-)
Quote from: Jon W on April 16, 2021, 09:06:39 AM
Me either. Two of the questions I asked myself when I added Raymarine electronics were even with a bimini, dodger, and connector do I want to plot a course in the weather, and do I want to run more or less wire? I decided out of the weather and less wire. From the chart plotter at the navigation station I ran one seaTalkng cable to the helm instrument pod for the i70, and a spur cable inside the pod to the i60. I use a 10" tablet as a repeater attached to a Ram Mount under the dodger or a second one near the helm. YBYC as they say.
I was already going to try and use an iPad at the helm for that purpose, I will try using the boat with the chart plotter down below, I can temporarily mount it whiteout destroying anything, see how I like it and if I miss having it up to.
Quote from: LogoFreak on April 16, 2021, 08:10:29 PM
Quote from: waughoo on April 16, 2021, 08:22:46 AM
It is like the inflight map for anyone interested down below!!
LOL! In the near future there's an AR kit coming, so I will also have a video feed ponying forward. I can run down to make myself a sandwich and still see what's happening outside :-)
Awesome... the sandwich making came to mind when I saw your setup. I thought, how perfect!!! I could make a snack and monitor the radar, chartplotter and AIS.
Have you watched any of Sail Life on the youtubes? He mounted a camera at the mast head. It would be good for spotting underwater obstructions on a very shiny weather day.
Quote from: Jon W on April 16, 2021, 09:06:39 AM
Me either. Two of the questions I asked myself when I added Raymarine electronics were even with a bimini, dodger, and connector do I want to plot a course in the weather, and do I want to run more or less wire?
I have always wanted a nav station mounted plotter for route planning in the comfort of the cabin. In a perfect world, i would gave a wifi enabled chartplotter so I could do the planning on a tablet and then exwcute it from the helm. That said, I am CONSTANTLY moving about my chart when at the helm to check depths, obstructions etc. Not having one at my fingertips would be hard to deal with.
The WIFI enabled plotters and their apps for tablets/laptops and phones are great. Paired with a NMEA network you get a lot of options and flexibility.
Chart plotter moved down below, so far don't miss it up in the cockpit. iPhone with navionics in my pocket at all times anyway. Maybe if I was in an unfamiliar area I would miss it but so far so good.
Love the action shots!! I'm still working on mine so much so that it can't be sailed. We have a trip planned for next weekend. Lot's to do yet, but I can see the finish line! Can't wait for the first shake down trip.
Another project ticked off my list.
Forward cabin port/starboard USB-c/a charger and power socket.
Ive got these on my list too! I like that spot you chose.
Quote from: waughoo on April 16, 2021, 08:22:45 PM
Have you watched any of Sail Life on the youtubes?
<Wears "Oh Glorious Sanding tshirt> :D :D :D
Finished with the electrical install in the forward cabin
Have you made a quick access panel for that fuse panel or do you have to remove the whole bulkhead?
Stopped by the candy store on the way home from work... Someone bent my rubber arm and I went home with a new Raymarine Doppler 2 radar and the AIS700 :D :clap
P.S. All I went in for was to get some LED bulbs lol
Oh man!!! I got banished from ebay for similar behavior. Just picked up a bunch of lightly used i70 displays, a p70 AP control, an itc5, and an ev-200 sensor core. Did I need any of that? Well, no, but it sure is COOL!!!
Guys : For those of you that do not want to go thru all the work that Antoni did to get a USB charger port here are some other ideas:
Look in an auto parts store and get a USB adapter plug that goes into a 12 V cigarette lighter plug and or most of the small cig plug inverters have a 115AC and a USB plugin!!
You can also change out your 110V AC plugs to ones that also have a USB built in port!!
Just make sure that any electrical plugs/equipment are Underwriters Lab certified so you don't get an unsafe Chinese knock off!!
A few thoughts
Replaced/upgraded the cabin too clutches. Only messed up on hole lol
A pair of spinlock XAS triple clutches. I have no halyards in the cockpit with the exception of my Gennaker halyard so the smaller XAS will do. I now have from port to starboard, spin halyard/outhall/main furling/topping lift/boom vang/main sheet.
Nice... i did this recently but used the garhauer tripple clutch. I'm curious about your outhaul at the cockpit. I cant say i have ever heard of that being done on a C34.
Alex, in my case I have an in-mast furling main, so the outhall pulls the sail out and the furling line pulls it back in. I also control with it how deep I want the main to be just like you would with a traditional outhall.
To avoid breaking the locking tab on the XAS, don't smack the handle down to close them.
Literally the first thing I did when I realized they had that satisfying click lol! Thanks for the tip!
Antoni,
Thanks for the reminder. I had forgotten about your roller reefing setup.
Today I received a Lewmar 30ST I ordered from eBay, it matches one of the cabin top winches I have and now it and the one I got are getting mounted on the mast. Spent a couple of hours on the computer drawing up a mount design. Mount base has a 5º offset. Base plate is 6x6in, I just have to figure out to what degree I need to bend the "feet" to.
I'm looking for some ideas where you guys have mounted all your electronic "black boxes". I need to mount the acu-200, ais700 and ray90 radio. So far the only idea I like is to remove the shelf above the nav station and place them there behind a bulkhead like in the mkII. Any other options?
Antoni : I mounted a few items way in the back (up high) of the hanging locker on the port side.
You have to be thin and be able to turn on your side, but they are out of the way!!
A thought
I think his holding tank was or is going his hanging locker?
On my MK l which has a lower switch panel than the MKll, I used the space above the switch panel and built a removable teak plywood bulkhead/panel where I mounted the faceplates of several instruments and various black box type components are concealed behind it. I also mounted some stuff deep in the hanging locker as well.
Quote from: Ron Hill on October 11, 2021, 01:33:52 PM
Antoni : I mounted a few items way in the back (up high) of the hanging locker on the port side.
You have to be thin and be able to turn on your side, but they are out of the way!!
A thought
I know what you mean! I have my toilet control module mounted there. Was a struggle but I managed lol!
Quote from: Noah on October 11, 2021, 02:46:42 PM
I think his holding tank was or is going his hanging locker?
On my MK l which has a lower switch panel than the MKll, I used the space above the switch panel and built a removable teak plywood bulkhead/panel where I mounted the faceplates of several instruments and various black box type components are concealed behind it. I also mounted some stuff deep in the hanging locker as well.
I will be going with what you've done, I've changed my mind with the holding tank location. It is now going to be where the fuel tank is and a new fuel tank is going to get fabricated to go where the aft water tank lives and a new water tank is getting mounted under the v-berth. Lol! I'm sure it seems to most of you like I just want to move #### around for the hell of it lol.
There's a logic to my madness.
My plan is to box in the area above my electrical panel to allow flush mount of displays and panels and the black boxes behind. This boxed in area will also gobble up the sliding door cabinet at the very top. I have never found that area to be very useful for much.
Agreed! I was only trying to see if others have found other places that make sense.
I also made a fascia above the main distribution panel to mount AIS, Last Watch 2, and DC switch panel for AIS, Last Watch 2, propane, fixed VHF, and portable VHF charger. Chart plotter has the Raymarine cover on vertical section. The tablet is my repeater for the cockpit. I store it there on a Ram mount attached to the teak rack. Only other electronic boxes are the digital echo charge and MPPT controllers for solar. They are mounted to a "breadboard" under the starboard sette where it's dry, cool, and protected from damage.
I also have some ideas for the vertical bulkhead at the aft end of the nav table. There is so much space there to make use of.
Also, how did you mount the "breadboard" at the stbd setee? I like that idea for solar controllers and my victron orion (similar to an echo charger).
I cut a piece of plywood to a length and trimmed to fit vertically between the hull and the underside of the fiberglass that the outboard salon cushion sits on. I painted both sides except where the adhesive bond would be before installing. I then used adhesive epoxy to bond it top and bottom. Attached a picture from my electrical write-up that might help.
Jon—where is this in relation to your starboard water tank?
The "breadboard" is outboard of the aft end of the tank. First photo is during construction.
Second photo is current. The storage on top of the tank is for stuff I rarely need, but want on the boat. It's easily/quickly removable if needed. There's a foam pad in between the wood and plastic tank to avoid any chafing. FYI - I haven't needed to access the Echo Charger since installation. Same with the MPPT charge controllers so decided to better utilize the space. If I want to see the LED's, I lift the lid and look in the gap between the storage bin and lip of the sette.
Thanks Jon. Ive seen your breadboard before but never knew how you set it up. Thanks for the clarification.
Been working on a pedestal mount for my radar, it also has a place to mount the CAM210
Why use a pedestal when you have a mast? You'll lose range and put the expensive kit down amongst spray and gear. Just askin.
Cause it's a PITA to install it on the mast? And I already have a radar mast mounted on the stern. I'm only elevating it as well as I needed to change the bolt pattern for the new radar.
Considering to change my prop to a feathering max-prop, any updated reviews from those who have one?
QuoteConsidering to change my prop to a feathering max-prop, any updated reviews from those who have one?
I say it's the best sail change I've done. Bought my max-prop 20 years ago for a previous boat and moved it to Shamrock. Max-prop has been trouble free all that time with a seasonal lube. If I had to come up with a negative, except for the cost, believe it does have more prop walk due to the wide blades, but the wide blades do give a strong reverse. I have no problem maneuvering, just need to anticipate the prop walk.
I'd buy again,
Jim
Thanks Jim! I'm surprised though about the prop walk, I would have thought that with all that extra thrust in reverse you'd get more rudder authority a lot quicker cancelling out the prop walk? I got a quote from PYI for just over $3k.
Anthony
Have you heard of "EWOL" props? here is a link https://ewol-propellers.com/e3-orion/
Year ago I got quote for it:
{it is a copy from my email}
"We have planned for an Andromeda version because the engine power allows to apply that model which is slightly cheaper than the Orion.
The Andromeda is a smaller version of the Orion propeller with exactly the same features, should you prefer the Orion version because even more robust, we have no problems.
The weight of the Andromeda is about 6.9 kgs, while the weight of the Orion is about 8.3 kgs
The price of the Andromeda is 2250 € discount 10% valid till Feb 5th
The price of the Orion is 2450 € discount 10% valid till Feb 5th
Shipment to Canada 130 € (any of the 2 models)"
I almost bought it, unfortunately could not proceed with order :cry4`( still want to).
Gregory,
Never heard of an Ewol before!! Looks very similar in theory to the max prop. What drew you to that over the max prop?
I am still a fan of my 3-blade Flexofold. However, I have not tried anything other than this and a fixed OEM three-bladed on my C34.
Quote from: Gregory M on February 16, 2022, 04:56:39 PM
Anthony
Have you heard of "EWOL" props? here is a link https://ewol-propellers.com/e3-orion/
Year ago I got quote for it:
{it is a copy from my email}
"We have planned for an Andromeda version because the engine power allows to apply that model which is slightly cheaper than the Orion.
The Andromeda is a smaller version of the Orion propeller with exactly the same features, should you prefer the Orion version because even more robust, we have no problems.
The weight of the Andromeda is about 6.9 kgs, while the weight of the Orion is about 8.3 kgs
The price of the Andromeda is 2250 € discount 10% valid till Feb 5th
The price of the Orion is 2450 € discount 10% valid till Feb 5th
Shipment to Canada 130 € (any of the 2 models)"
I almost bought it, unfortunately could not proceed with order :cry4`( still want to).
Very cool, but I'd like to find some reviews and see their long term longevity.
Quote from: waughoo on February 16, 2022, 05:06:13 PM
Gregory,
Never heard of an Ewol before!! Looks very similar in theory to the max prop. What drew you to that over the max prop?
Research. in one word. Basically it is same prop as max prop, but way improved!
First: one screw to adjust pitch, can be done in water! with alen key
Second: for rebuild, you get kit and do it your self.
Big two pluses IMHO.
QuoteI would have thought that with all that extra thrust in reverse you'd get more rudder authority a lot quicker cancelling out the prop walk?
I've found that giving a burst of power in reverse then shifting to neutral is the way to go. Give it enough reverse power to get steerage (will get prop walk) then shift to neutral (no more prop walk). Only have prop walk while in gear even at idle get some.
It's a testament to the max-prop that I forward/reverse a lot to maneuver and never have had a problem with the prop.
Jim
Thanks Gregory. I felt the same way when reading about it: a sort of next gen max prop. I really like the half shell blade bushings to fix the wear. Very cool idea.
Reconfiguring the nav station, does anyone know which veneered plywood matches the interior cabinetry best?
I do believe it is teak plywood, but I haven't verified that.
Made the templates today, going to find some half decent plywood and make pieces as a temp setup and live with it for a few months, see how I like it. If it's a keeper I'll go find the proper veneered plywood and finish them next fall.
The inside template is simply for a piece of ply to mount all the black boxes.
Did the solid parts holding the sliding plastic doors come out without much trouble? I have this on the near term list and have started to investigate how to remove those parts. Also, it looks as though you are having the new "plane" of the panel come out a bit further from its current location. Do I have that right?
It came out in one piece without too much trouble, had to remove a piece of trim for it to slide out though.
Yes the new panel is out a little further, I wanted a bit of extra room in the back for airflow around all the black boxes and I won't miss the lost room in the front.
Quote from: LogoFreak on February 20, 2022, 11:20:35 AM
Reconfiguring the nav station, does anyone know which veneered plywood matches the interior cabinetry best?
The interior was supplied by H&L who is out of biz several years. Contact Cesar.
https://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,11293.msg90306.html#msg90306
Some have simply purchased teak veneer and applied it over cabinet-grade plywood.
-Ken
Ordered a couple of BlueSea panels, an 18 position (8378) one and an 8 position (8023) one as well. The smaller panel will be a sub panel for all the electronics which will be powered by a single breaker on the main 18 position panel labeled "Electronics", that way I can power all electronics with a single switch.
I still need to pick the right AC panel, doing some research on what I need. I'll never have a generator on board (at least not one mounted down below in the traditional sense) so I don't think I need an AC selector switch. Single AC source should be enough, and the inverter charger gets wired in between shore power and AC panel.
Quote from: LogoFreak on February 22, 2022, 07:32:13 AM
The smaller panel will be a sub panel for all the electronics which will be powered by a single breaker on the main 18 position panel labeled "Electronics", that way I can power all electronics with a single switch.
Clever solution to that problem. I ran into a similar problem and thus used a single breaker to power a fuse panel just to allow for enough amps to switch many things but have fuse protection for each individual item. It does limit what will be on or off at a given time though.
Black box panel in place, now figuring out the best layout to mount what I already have and leaving room for future additions. Ray90, AIS700 and ACU-200, leaving room for the new Raymarine yachtsense link.
And yes, once I am satisfied with the install and placement of everything I will take it apart, epoxy coat it and like paint it white.
I think I'm happy with this.
Curious that youll have the ACU that far away from the linear drive. Any particular reason?
It's a dry area and easy to troubleshoot, makes no difference wether I lead cables from dc panel all the way to ACU or just lead the cables to the linear drive.
True... mine is in a rather tricky spot to get to in a pinch.
Logo-i thought you were planning to raise your distribution panel up higher, to the position the MK2 uses, not keep it down at charttable level? Maybe that was another refit or you changed you mind?
Hi Noah,
No I haven't changed my mind but I'm not at that stage of the project yet either. I'm still waiting for the rest of my blue sea panels, I need them before I remove the original one.
Added winches to my mast today, ended up ordering the Selden mast plates, very pleased with them. Also, removed the forward gate stanchion and replaced with a non gated stanchion and a custom pad eye to use the hole left by the gated stanchion (to be used for a block that will lead my gennaker tweekers back to the cockpit). The gated stanchion that I removed is getting relocated further aft to make a gate that leads into the cockpit instead, I find that a lot more useful than one amidship.
Logo- of all the "upgrades" I have done, there is one i have put off doing due to (perceived?) level of difficulty. That is OUTBOARD GENOA TRACKS on the toe rail. I believe these would be very beneficial. Someday, maybe 🤔
Hey Noah, in what situation would you use an outboard Genoa track? Mine came with outboard track on the aft end which I'm assuming were meant for spinnaker control?
Mine did not come with any outboard tracks. Unfortunately, that was a factory upgrade. Yes, for spinnaker and gennaker as well for better genoa sheeting angle in certain wind conditions. If I install I would extend them forward so they overlap current inboard tracks quite a bit. It would also provide a hanging point for fenders, snatch blocks, and any other "BS" one might want to attach similar to if the boat had an extruded metal toe rail. Unfortunately, installing these would be a big, knuckle-busting, two-man job.
My assumption is that with adding the powsprit and running a gennaker on a furler the conditions you speak of will be handled by it and not my Genoa, at least that's the reason I'm going thru all the trouble.
Radar/camera/antenna mount done, will be mounting it this weekend. New stern light mounted as well.
Love shiny new things :D
New pair of secondary cockpit winches for my gennaker sheets.
I so want this type of winch on my boat. I have the first gen self tailing system and it doesnt grip the line too well. It is better than NON self tailing, but that spring loaded tailer is the bees knees!
I hear ya! Considering to upgrade the other 4 winches to the newer style.
Finally got a chance to fit the bulkhead in the nav station. Still need trim all the way around, make the cutouts for the various devices/panels, and get some hinges so that I can get behind there.
Very cool man!! I am happy to see this coming along. I want to revamp my Nav station panel too, but the project list is deep!! At least I can live vicariously through your experience.
Thanks! But I'll say that I'm loosing steam, a few too many projects on the list. Kinda had to being a new boat to me but I don't recommend taking on as many projects as I did to anyone. Really hoping to get off the dock soon for my own sanity :clap :D
Antony...
I have the same feeling with my boat. It has been torn apart since last October for tons of wiring upgrades, electronics installs, water leak repairs etc and I JUST got the collection of boxes that is the hydronic heater. As the weather gets nicer, I am getting very anxious. I think I might shelve the heater till the fall and put the boat back together. Going to the boat is loosing a bit of its excitement as it is a complete mess.
Well that is part of the reason a community like this exists! So that we can support each other! Keep at her, one step ahead is still a step ahead!
Then we can meet on the water and check each other's boats out and steal ideas :D
Thanks Antony. I look forward to seeing Polonaise in the flesh. You are making a one of a kind!!! Thanks for the words of encouragement.
Well it was a solid 6 hours tooling around in the workshop, mostly because I was learning how to use my trim router and get the fit I wanted to get my axiom 9 flush mounted. Then a ton of screw holes drilled for the hinge (couldn't mount it hidden because I only had 1/2 plywood and needed 3/4 in order to mount the hinge the right way). All a fiddly process. Keep in mind this is a temp setup so I can use the boat this season and also figure out the best layout, come fall I'll have an idea if that layout works for me and make something more permanent with teak trim and hopefully a teak veneered plywood to match.
The hole at the bottom is temporary as well as I haven't received the blue sea panel I ordered, so for now hope serves as an access for oem panel.
What do you plan to put directly over the elec panel?
New electric panel
So that begs the question, what goes UNDER the new electrical panel!!
At the moment all of my bus bars and terminal strips are behind there, likely to keep it that way. Tuu hi is season I'll get a good idea of the layout and what I might want to change and in the fall/winter I'll finalize the setup.
Antennas, radar and camera installed! It's a functional test fit which means I'll wire it all to get it working, and use it for a couple of weeks to make sure I don't want any changes or additions to the pole it's all mounted on. If it's all good then I'll take it down to have the whole thing powder coated.
A camera too!?!! Schnazzy!
Yes! Super excited to put it to use, I also got everything else to make the AR system work. Next time I take the mast down I'll add another one at the masthead so I can do log watches in comfort :clap
The mast head camera location would be fabulous!! Imagine the situational awareness you'll have when you step down below on autopilot with that GIANT screen on the fwd bulkhead repeating the plotter!!! NOICE!!
All new LED lights added yesterday :clap
Very nice!! I have all LED illumination aboard now, but still haven't gotten to cove lights. Looks super cozy!
I have 3 jobs left before I call it quits for the season, in order of importance.
1. Prep bow for bow sprit
2. Build the mount for the linear drive (below deck autopilot)
3. Build the enclosure for the 4 i70s and 1 p70s displays that goes above the companion way.
That looks like an ambitious list!!! I am trying to get my heater/boiler and all associated parts mounted in the lazzerette area and will then likely clean up for the season. I don't think I will get the heat exchangers mounted till the fall... unless maybe...
Quote from: LogoFreak on April 28, 2022, 08:46:55 PM
I have 3 jobs left before I call it quits for the season, in order of importance.
1. Prep bow for bow sprit
2. Build the mount for the linear drive (below deck autopilot)
3. Build the enclosure for the 4 i70s and 1 p70s displays that goes above the companion way.
Hey Logo, I'm very interested to see how you do the below decks actuator mounting. Lots of pics please! Have you decided where to put the ACU yet? I'm in two minds, either by the chart table, or on the forward bulkhead of the stbd lazarette.
It's being documented on this thread.
https://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,10763.0.html
Acu is mounted at the nav station.
Logo—I thought you were moving your new electrical panel up where there appears now to be a Raymarine box?
Noah,
This is a mock up. He was waiting on the panel parts from Blue sea so left a cut out for now to maintain use of the existing panel. What youre seeing here is the behind area of that plywood hinged panel he posted recently (hope I got that all correct Logo).
I still don't get it. If the new AC/DC instrument panel is raised up above where the old one is, then the rectangular Raymarine brain box will have to move, or it be "trapped behind the new panel??? What am I missing?
Alex, you're hired! :clap
Noah, the new panel that spans the entire width of the nav station has also been moved further away from the hull. That space is now deeper so a dc panels depth won't come anywhere near the acu-200, and it is also hinged so access to what's behind is super easy and convenient. I may still change my mind about the exact mounting location on that new panel, which is why this is just a mock up that will serve me well for this season.
:thumb: Interested in seeing the final outcome.
Whew!! Was worried I might have remembered wrong. I have similar plans in mind for my boat so I have been paying EXTRA close attention to this set up.
Here Noah, this is where it's at right now.
Guess it will depend on how deep your new electrical panel is. My Blue Sea 360 panel is quite deep when AC protective cover etc. is on.
I'm using the traditional metal panels, considered the 360 but I honestly prefer the look of the traditional panel. I'm moving my AC panel to a different location, I lost count on how many times I've zapped myself while working behind the panel. Ac/dc side by side is a bad idea in my opinion.
Just finished adding the victron cerbo GX to the system, unfortunately I forgot to buy the ve.direct cable that connects my smart shunt to the cerbo so no data I can display at the moment. Screen is super nice very responsive and I'd say higher resolution that my axiom 9 chart plotter. Going to be adding lots of victron equipment so this touch 70 display is definitely cool to have. One stop shop for a complete overview of the boats electrical system, both dc and ac.
Placement of both boxes and screens is definitely temporary, as said before I'm slapping it on and living with it this season to determine the layout I want.
What do you mean by " I'm using the traditional metal panels". Have a pic.?
The blue sea 8378
https://www.bluesea.com/products/8378/DC_18_Position
and
the blue sea 8023
https://www.bluesea.com/products/8023/Traditional_Metal_DC_Panel_-_8_Positions
QUOTE: " I'm moving my AC panel to a different location, I lost count on how many times I've zapped myself while working behind the panel. Ac/dc side by side is a bad idea in my opinion...."
Regardless of where you locate your panel(s), I urge you to "de-energize" them before poking around the back of them.
Oh absolutely, if I'm working on AC side I always pull the shore power cord. Thing is I was getting zapped while working on DC side because of the proximity of all the AC stuff.
Envious of that cerbo Logo. I have that on my list but not likely until I install the MP 2k watt inv/chrg. That will likely be NEXT season's project.
I can't wait to start adding more things the cerbo can monitor and display, going to be looking at which are the best type of tank senders. I want a sender for each of my tanks (water, fuel, holding tank). Was also thinking last night that since the cerbo has the ability to start a generator with its way of controlling relays, I could technically have it start my inboard diesel. Will have to think that thru though.
I ended up getting KUS senders for all my tanks (with the exception of the diesel). I plan to connect them to the N2k network via a yacht devices multi tank adapter. With some programming and calibrating you can get it to read gallons remaing etc. I will prob not get them installed for a while yet, but I have them! I had thought to do that via the cerbo, but liked the idea that I could view from the i70 at the nav station or up at the helm. The new plotters like you have can see the cerbo data on the plotter screens. I still have the e127 running on LHII.
https://www.yachtd.com/products/tank_adapter_04.html
With the cerbo on my Raymarine network I'll still be able to display tank level data on any of the Raymarine mfd's.
Cockpit table back on, had a new pedestal guard made. A two piece design with the table brackets welded on instead of screwed on, much sturdier. Very happy with it.
Working on the gauge pod above the companion way now.
Are the gauge pods going to be a fiberglass part and thus the foam is the plug? Super interested in that design. I would love to have some i70s in that same spot.
Also, very much like your binnacle guard FEET!! The ones sold by others basically collect water and FEED it into the boat :-( I have a bunch of sealant where the tube meets the foot, but as a part that flexes and moves, I suspect that sealant won't last long.
Yes Alex, the gauge pod is currently a foam plug for the fiberglass part, I'm not very proficient at it so takes me some time to get it right. Having said that, if you're interested I could possibly spend a little extra time on the plug so that I could last for a short limited production run. No promises, I have very little free time lol.
Yes the feet on the new guard was intentional! Filled the holes with epoxy as I didn't want any wires being fed thru there, it was a major source of water leaking into my aft cabin bed! 0 leaks now and the new guard works great, 0 raddles and feels super sturdy
Nice man!!! My boat had a TON of aft cabin leaks and many where at my pedestal guard. Its dry now though! Hopefully it lasts. I still have wires routed in there as I have all my instruments mouted in pods at the guard.
I am interested in the pod "plug" but don't do anything extra for me. I know how long boat projects take! If the plug survives your part production clean enough to make another one, I am certainly interested!
Quote from: waughoo on May 07, 2022, 10:16:07 PM
Nice man!!! My boat had a TON of aft cabin leaks and many where at my pedestal guard. Its dry now though! ....................
Of course it will last...you do good work:D.
Just as a reminder to others, many aft cabin leaks can be traced back to the Beckson cockpit portlights, especially the aft one. Happened to Jeff Tancock, who showed me his, and the same for me. In lieu of removing the portlight (which I'd done for four or so of the other ones on the cabin), I removed and replaced the trim ring, while re-sealing the light itself before installing the new trim ring.
It's not always the binnacle or pedestal or guard, although they are "the usual suspects" first.
New sails bent on, planning on a couple of day sails this weekend 😁
Love it!! I always forget you have that roller main.
Small job, big reward. Pulpit re-bedded and now permanently bolted down, all I have left is to wire the lights in down below and I can call that job completed. Lifelines are back on where they belong too, safer and cleaner.
Love the choice of scocket head cap screws.
I bought 300 of them 🤣, polished the ones I used for the stanchions and pulpit/pushpit.
Furler all setup this morning, getting the boat ready for a test sail on Monday 😁
I dig it!! I am very excited to hear about the teat sail.
Sorry Alex, you'll have to be satisfied with just a pic of the gennaker hoisted. It was blowing 17 knots in English bay so I wasn't going to go out to test things out in those conditions. Waiting for a calmer day. Luff length is perfect and it furled very nicely at the sail loft. Really looking forward to trying it out. I will try and get drone shots on that day, likely post a short video on my YouTube channel and post the link to it here.
Standing by for the video!!
Did you extend the mast crane too?
Mast crane is whatever the boat came with, not sure if it's factory or not. Finally took the boat out today! It's all working flawlessly, gennaker furls like a dream. We were doing 5 (SOG) knots in 7 knots of wind.
I was short handed today so really no extra hand available to film anything, video is coming soon!
Hot damn!!! What an accomplishment!!! Way to go man. I am getting close on the furnace, but haven't had time to update the post with photos. Still stuck at the dock till that gets done. Till then, I will live vocariously through your video when it comes :-)
https://www.instagram.com/p/Ce2UmEYrtlk/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=
Very nice... i liked seeing it roll up in the video.
https://www.instagram.com/p/Ce-l6n4u_VG/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=
Fancy!
Nice. Let us know how the 30 ST winches work—if they are big enough for sail. I wish I had toe rail sheeting tracks. :cry4`
Noah, my genny is 710sqft and do far sailed in winds up to 12 knots apparent and have no issues.
Good to know. My asymmetrical is 800 sq. ft. and I was thinking 40STs when/if I added additional winches. I will keep your experience in mind.
For the price difference I'd go 40st, that way you've got headroom in case you ever go bigger.
Added some pics and video from this long weekend sail, here's the link.
https://www.instagram.com/p/Cfl3QDqru8t/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=
Love that video... such a pretty sail.
Guys : I did the same thing that Antoni did, but used a ST Lewmar 16 winch. I put the 150 genoa furling line in it or the tack control line when the cruising spinnaker is up! You don't need a larger winch as the #16 will do the job!
A few thoughts
Ron, One thought.
The 16 is too small to be used for sheets on a gennaker.
Antoni : I put the gennaker (cruising spinnaker) sheet lines (port and starboard) in the Primary #46 Lewmar winchs!!
I only have one #16 Lewmar ST winch which is on the port side. I use that smaller winch for the cruising spinnaker's tack control (height of the tack) 5/16" line and the roller furling 3/8" line for the 150% roller furling genoa. However, I believe that the #16 will handle up to 1/2" line.
A few thoughts
What size sheets do you have for your gennaker? The 46st won't sail tail my 5/16in sheets. Adding the two 30st gives me a lot of options. I can use them for sheeting Genoa when I have guests and don't want them to have to move when tacking, they're closer to the helm so I can do it all myself from the helm station.
Antoni : My Cruising spinnaker sheets are 5/16" fuzzy braid on braid. All I do is wrap these sheet lines around the 46s drum about 4 or 5 times then into the self tailor and they stay in place!!
A thought
Received my new bilge pump today, is there any issue with having bilge pump discharge from the side of the hull? Currently it's discharging from the stern. Would rather have a much shorter run of hose, would add a vented loop.
Thoughts?
Antoni,
Only concerns would be marks on the side of the hull or backfeed when heeled. Vented loop would work as long as the height required doesn't exceed the pressure drop through the old longer hose to the transom (engineering-speak).
I would consider a hull side bilge exit for an emergency high volume bilge pump, but I cant say I would do it for my regular pump. The outlet on the hull side and the potential for stains is a hard pill for me to swallow.
Quote
(engineering-speak).
Don't know your specifics, but pumping 1000 GPH thru 15 feet of 1-1/4" smooth bore hose, creates 1 foot of head loss, but that's not the major head loss.
Pumping up over your high spot in the hose will be the major head loss, not the fiction loss of the hose. In other words, 1000 GPH water pumped up, say 3 feet, is like pumping thru 45' of hose.
I don't see where a vent on a high loop helps. I'd **think** all you need is a hump as high as you can get (compared to the heeled waterline.) I could be convinced otherwise. Now if you were discharging below the waterline, then yes, a vented loop. If the discharge is under the rail and buried on a heel, a vented loop wouldn't necessarily prevent water from flowing back.
Quoteis there any issue with having bilge pump discharge from the side of the hull?
The MKll bilge pump discharges from the side, high, aft, port. Only issue is the water that back flows back to the bilge from the long hose run. Works just fine.
Jim
Guys : You are best to just live with the back flow when the pump shuts off. I believe that you just create more problems trying to eliminate that backflow!!!
A thought
Not necessarily trying to eliminate back flow, I bought a new whale IC bilge pump that has an integrated strained/check valve. I wanted to eliminate all that long length of hose. The vented loop was to prevent water flowing back when on a heel but I realized after as some have pointed out a hump as high as possible is all I'd need, besides when heeling that much there's no water in our bilges as they are so shallow... I suppose I could do a test of how much volume pump is able to pump out with the two different setups. Will report back...
Where does the hose run now? Is there a high spot, and where is that?
Test fitting my new custom boom last Friday, perfect fit. All there's left to do is attach the track and drill the holes for the main sheet blocks.
Antoni : Suggest that you setup a schedule to check that pump strainer. I say that because it will never be obvious that the strainer is clogged!!
Hard to believe that someone mounted a bilge pump exit so low that you get back flow when healing!? I've NEVER been able to put the gunnel in the water with my 34 and a 150% genoa - maybe your fin keel rudder can do that!?!
Think that I would have remounted a new higher exit rather than your vented loop - but it's your boat!
A few thoughts
Antoni,
Tell us more about the boom. Is it optomized for your roller reefed main? It looks significantly lighter and has some really slick integrated pulleys at the end. Please tell the story.
Quote from: Ron Hill on September 12, 2022, 06:49:31 PM
Antoni : Suggest that you setup a schedule to check that pump strainer. I say that because it will never be obvious that the strainer is clogged!!
Hard to believe that someone mounted a bilge pump exit so low that you get back flow when healing!? I've NEVER been able to put the gunnel in the water with my 34 and a 150% genoa - maybe your fin keel rudder can do that!?!
Think that I would have remounted a new higher exit rather than your vented loop - but it's your boat!
A few thoughts
You misunderstood, current bilge thru hull is all the way aft at the transom. I want to shorten the run and place it closer to center line of the boat. Alternate place would be next to exhaust thru hull, that way I don't have to look at it. Lol.
Quote from: waughoo on September 12, 2022, 08:33:50 PM
Antoni,
Tell us more about the boom. Is it optomized for your roller reefed main? It looks significantly lighter and has some really slick integrated pulleys at the end. Please tell the story.
The boom that was on the boat as I bought it was crudely modified by someone to work with an in-mast furler, they did it with cheap blocks and very bad geometry in terms of lead angles for the outhall. The result was an outhall that barely is able to pull the sail out while the sail itself is very easy to pull out by hand.
So I had a spare boom from my previous Catalina 30 (same boom as 34/36) and set out to improve on the system. Bought a new harken track, harken outhall car and harken esp sheaves. Then to the drawing board with the wizard (fabricator). We came up with a system that will have very little friction, nothing fancy or new, mostly recycled designs from many newer boats. I will show it off in more detail once it's on the boat and have had a chance to use it.
Cant wait to see it.
Antoni : You are correct - that I have NO idea of ???what you are trying to do by having a side discharge for a bilge pump???
If you want an emergency bilge pump you can do what I did -- I ran a 5/8" hose from the bilge under the flooring to the door under the head SINK. That hose has a fitting to go into the Raw water hose that feeds the engine. In an emergency I can close the engine RW thru hull and attach the bilge hose to the Engine hose and the engine becomes a bilge pump!!
Alot simpler than a side discharge and an anti-syphon valve!!
A few thoughts
Yeah Ron, definitely not trying to do what you did...
Antoni : Why Not!! The engine is there and all you have to do for an emergency bilge pump is to add a chunk of hose and an adapter!! Your boat your choice!! It was a usable idea!!
A few thoughts
Great idea Ron, it's just not what I'm trying to do. Currently replacing my main bilge pump that's all.
Installed the new boom last night :clap
It was late so pictures aren't the best but it's all I could do. Likely go for a test sail on Sunday. I can finally pull the sail out without the need for the winch and a lot of back muscle, furls in super easy as well.
Looks super tidy as usual. That welder of yours is indeed a wizzard!! I look forward to when we cross paths one day so I can see that roller main setup in person. I am so curious about how it was adapted to the mast.
Action shots :clap
Nice!! :clap
The wind a bit south was pretty darn nice today. I wanted to go out but not alone. Unfortunately all my usual suspects were not available.