I may have been one of Guido's last orders for our club. Dave finished assembling the order and it arrived today, took about a month. Some pictures, I am happy with the order.
Your's must have been assembled nearly at the same time as mine! I just installed mine on the boat last weekend.
Any issues?
Super easy. The only issue I had was getting the end stop off. I eventually broke the head of the screw trying to get it out. That allowed me to swap the new one on, but now i need to drill out the screw and repair it so i can reinstall the end cap.
Nice, Glenn. Like Xmas all over again! I remember when I got ours. Great improvement.
I notice you still have the cam cleats on the end cars. Do you have a dodger?
Recommend using Lanocote or TefGel on all bolts. ALL of them.
Happy sail trimming! :clap
I have been soaking that screw but fear I may have the same results.
Quote from: waughoo on January 22, 2021, 07:52:05 PM
Super easy. The only issue I had was getting the end stop off. I eventually broke the head of the screw trying to get it out. That allowed me to swap the new one on, but now i need to drill out the screw and repair it so i can reinstall the end cap.
Quote from: Stu Jackson on January 22, 2021, 08:33:34 PM
Recommend using Lanocote or TefGel on all bolts. ALL of them.
Happy sail trimming! :clap
I second the use of tefgel. Lanacote as a close second. Tefgel survives hot and cold cycles. Lanicote can weep out in high temps.
I can also recommend the dodger mod. I had garhauer build mine with the turning blocks. I then will use halyard exit blocks on the face of the traveler riser and mount two cam cleats on 1" risers on the cabin top. I plan to mount those next week. I'll try to remember to get photos.
Quote from: glennd3 on January 23, 2021, 05:44:15 AM
I have been soaking that screw but fear I may have the same results.
An impact screwdriver is helpful for those.
I asked before but it may have been lost in the text: Do you have a dodger? 'Cuz you have the cam cleats still on the traveler. That's what Alex was talking about.
Yes I do. I am having it modified to run the lines through.
Guys : I found something that I use rather than Tefgel or Lanocoat. It will not fade in heat, comes in it's own applicator tube and it's easy to carry around in your pocket or tool kit. Just rub it on threads or any dissimilar metals. You probably have some already onboard!!!
It's called Chapstick!! :thumb:
A thought
Quote from: glennd3 on January 23, 2021, 12:51:33 PM
Yes I do. I am having it modified to run the lines through.
Glenn, my old dodger had slits to be able to use the cam cleats on my old traveler. Once I had the new traveler built with the sheaves, I installed cam cleats on the cabintop. My new dodger did away with the slits and has grommet holes for the traveler control lines. It's much easier to use that way. Dave Sanner also encourages the use of swivel cam cleats on the cabintop.
I would SERIOUSLY consider the turning blocks. It moves the dodger modification OUT of the glass and down to the cabin top level. Additionally, the cam cleat is INSIDE the dodger.
Stu... I went with extreme angle fairleads on my harken cam cleats. This SHOULD allow me to trip and reset them from the center companion way area rather than having to reach down low and high to set them.
https://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=375
I removed the screws and bolts, used impact screwdriver. Will wait to spring to install new parts.
I used my makita impact driver and had no success. I even went through about 14 bits (impact rated) and still had no joy. I'm envious of your success. How come you are waiting till spring to install?
Boat is out of water. Thought I would just wait. I just wanted to make sure I would not run into a problem when I do go to install. How long are your lines for the traveler?
My impact uses a hammer. You hit the driver and it turns the screw slowly about a quarter turn. It works well because when you strike it with the hammer it also keeps pressure on the screw so it does not strip the head. Screws that are locked up just suck!
Quote from: waughoo on January 24, 2021, 10:32:33 AM
I used my makita impact driver and had no success. I even went through about 14 bits (impact rated) and still had no joy. I'm envious of your success. How come you are waiting till spring to install?
Quote from: glennd3 on January 24, 2021, 11:33:26 AM>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
How long are your lines for the traveler?
Mine are 27 feet EACH.
I
urge you to measure your own before you buy.
I used bowlines to connect them to the sheaves and have figure 8 knots at the ends after the cabintop cam cleats with not much to spare.
5/16" - 3/8" is too big, do NOT make them bigger than the manual says or else they will swell and eventually bind. Ask many of us how we know...
All the best, looks great.
I dont know the exact length. They are a bit on the short side for me as there wont be much tail left in the cam cleat when the traveler is hard over. It will work for now though.
Glenn : Don't forget to use some "Chapstick" on the threads of those end cap bolts!! :thumb:
A thought
Got my turn blocks installed today at the boat. I still need to final install the cam cleats, but they have been located and epoxy potted to seal the core. Tomorrow I'll set them.
Looks great, Alex. Does the line go under the dodger?
That is the plan Stu. It was a bit tricky with the head vent hatch right there. There wasnt much free space to through bolt due to the bulkhead gusset and the door frame. I put the cam cleat on a riser to make it a bit easier to latch the cam. I look forward to seeing it all done with the dodger in place. It should really dress the boat up!
EDIT: in trolling the BBS I have now seen how your traveler is set up Stu. My goal was to keep from having ANY penetrations in the glass of my dodger. Thats the main reason i brought it down that low. The dodger i'm going with will have Markelon windows which are rather ridgid. It seemed a good idea to avoid having anything going through them.
I used rotating Spinlock cleats on edge of cabin top and went through dodger canvas. Photos:
Those are slick cleats. I would have preferred to have them further back for ease of use but there was a lot to get around on the cabin top in this area.
In an effort to reduce head strikes I went for the use of sex nuts to get the lowest profile on the cabin top. Notably important on the stbd side as it is directly over the stove standing area. Here are some photos...
Note... finally got a reasonably easy to use photo resizer for my phone. Hence the multitude of photos :-)
I thought the risers (correct term?) supporting the main traveler were hollow? If so, what's the risk of the fair lead getting pulled off?
Regards,
Ed
They are indeed hollow. The layup there is quite thick. I used 3/4" stainless sheet meatal screws with truss heads and a bit of 5200 on the back side. I used an impact screw gun to set the screws applying copious amounts of pressure and slow speed. The amount of torque applied gives me a fair amount of confidence they arent going anywhere.
I will admit that I was hoping for some sort of wood behind that layup, and was quite dissapointed when the bit just popped through. Once i had the holes though, I was commited.
That was part of my reasoning to through-bolt the fairleads on the cabin top.
Quote from: Noah on January 30, 2021, 08:23:36 AM
That was part of my reasoning to through-bolt the fairleads on the cabin top.
After the first hole in the riser popped through, I seriously considered this re-design. Hopefully I will never find out that it DOESN'T hold.
The PO installed mine in the risers like yours. I haven't had any problems.
Quote from: Jon W on January 30, 2021, 04:42:16 PM
The PO installed mine in the risers like yours. I haven't had any problems.
Thanks for the input!! That is good to hear. I suspect with the purchase blocks the load at that turning block is quite light.
I was able to install the traveler today. The hardest part of the install was removing the large screw/bolt, I had 2 different, from the traveler bar that hold the 2 large end brackets. Impact screwdriver was a must. I still need to get longer lines. I have to install the mainsheet blocks but it was cold and windy. Also garhauer treated the screws with some "chapstick".
Some Pictures.
Looks really nice!! The chapstick garhauer uses is likely Tefgel. Mine had that on it as well.
Quote from: glennd3 on February 06, 2021, 12:07:38 PM
I was able to install the traveler today. The hardest part of the install was removing the large screw/bolt, I had 2 different, from the traveler bar that hold the 2 large end brackets. Impact screwdriver was a must. I still need to get longer lines. I have to install the mainsheet blocks but it was cold and windy. Also garhauer treated the screws with some "chapstick".
Some Pictures.
Glennd3: New traveller looks great! I got new mainsheet blocks from GH and plan to install sometime after the next snow storm.
I also got new standup blocks for the mainsheet system but the diameter of the bolts are significantly larger. Not sure I am up for drilling larger holes. Anyone have experience replacing the mainsheet standup blocks?
Are you referring to a line clutch?
two standup blocks either side of the mast
how do you insert pics in the message so they don't have to be downloaded?
Wingman... based on your boat's year, you have a Mk2 which would have plates glassed into the deck to hold the blocks on either side of the mast for the mainsheet. Is tjat the blocks you speak of?
Quote from: wingman on February 06, 2021, 07:46:05 PM
how do you insert pics in the message so they don't have to be downloaded?
When you create or reply or quote a message, below the box in which you type in there's an expandable menu that says "attachments and other options", click on the "+" sign and you'll see options for attaching files. You can then click on "(more attachments)" to add more pictures. Files must be under one megabyte. If you're sending pictures from an iPhone when you select a picture it gives you to option to resize a pic and let's you know how big the file size will be.
Quote from: waughoo on February 06, 2021, 10:23:35 PM
Wingman... based on your boat's year, you have a Mk2 which would have plates glassed into the deck to hold the blocks on either side of the mast for the mainsheet. Is tjat the blocks you speak of?
Alex: they are plastic and ss plates that hold the block and are bolted through the cabin top, i attached a couple pics last night.
logo: i must be missing a step, because i followed your instructions but pics show up in my post as downloads.
Wingman I take my pictures on my Iphone then email them to myself. Then I download them on my laptop. Then I attach them to the post from my documents, works easily.
Quote from: wingman on February 06, 2021, 07:46:05 PM
how do you insert pics in the message so they don't have to be downloaded?
Try jpg not pdf
Quote from: Stu Jackson on February 07, 2021, 12:08:35 PM
Quote from: wingman on February 06, 2021, 07:46:05 PM
how do you insert pics in the message so they don't have to be downloaded?
Try jpg not pdf
Thanks Stu, success.
Now will you talk me out of drilling bigger holes in the cabin top? :D
So im a bit confused why you want to replace those. They appear to be in fine shape to me. They might need a little clean up, but otherwise they are similar quality and design that I've gotten from garhauer recently.
I was wrong. In looking for traveler pictures, I came across this:
Very interesting Stu!! This is promising.
I've been trying for a couple months now to get a quote for a new mainsheet block set from Garhauer. Unfortunately it seems that things are not as smooth without Guido. I'm sure they are doing their best. Recently they sent me a list of blocks, but I don't think it's right. Can you tell me the part number for the fiddle block that you received?
thanks!
I never had a part number for my set up. It was just a call with a quick conversation and then the items were shipped. Someone else on this thread did a full bolck upgrade as well. I suspect they might be a bit more helpful with part numbers.
Quote from: csimmerling on April 14, 2021, 08:46:12 AM
>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>Can you tell me the part number for the fiddle block that you received?
thanks!
My inventory says Series 40 for my mainsheet block upgrade. That was a mere 20 years ago. Should be in their catalog, no?
Here is a copy of the invoice, Guido is the one that set it up for me. Hope this helps. I will take a picture of the blocks next time I am at the boat for you. Hopefully I will not forget! I may have smoked pot in the 70s :shock:
CAUTION: If you are leading back through your dodger make sure you get the correct step-up with a fairlead/block that leads aft, not one with a cam cleat on the car/track hardware. Your have to request the "dodger modification version". Not sure that is what Glenn bought.
I think he wants the main sheet block #s, not the traveler.
Sorry, I was confused by his wording "upgrade. Are there "standard" and "upgraded" Garhauer mainsheet solutions? My mainsheet is Schaefer so... I am not familiar with what upgrade means with regards to mainsheet blocks. I do have the Garhauer traveller with dodger upgrade.
Quote from: Noah on April 14, 2021, 08:09:35 PM
Sorry, I was confused by his wording "upgrade. Are there "standard" and "upgraded" Garhauer mainsheet solutions? My mainsheet is Schaefer so... I am not familiar with what upgrade means with regards to mainsheet blocks. I do have the Garhauer traveller with dodger upgrade.
No, Noah, there isn't a "mainsheet upgrade"because it's just a replacement endeavor. Unless they've changed their entire sizing nomenclature, it's what I said in #47.
thanks Glenn, that isn't what they suggested to me, they said to use 30-13US and 30-14US, and a triple block (?) instead of the fiddle. I asked for clarification.
You can see the parts on the first picture I posted on this thread too.
Quote from: waughoo on April 14, 2021, 09:25:50 AM
Someone else on this thread did a full bolck upgrade as well. I suspect they might be a bit more helpful with part numbers.
I replaced my original mainsheet blocks with slightly larger Garhauer series 50 blocks, I think the series 40 would have been a direct replacement for mkii. I chose anodized alum over SS:
—Unibody Double Block with Shackle 50-17 UB,
—Unibody Single Block with Shackle 50-13 UB (2)
—Single Stand-Up Swivel Block 50-19 UAB (2)
Because of the slightly larger size, the install holes for the standup blocks had to be enlarged. Took me a while to find SS bolts, nuts, cap nuts, and lock washers in the right size, but between boltdepot.com and my local chandlery, got all the bits and pieces needed.
I waited for the 10% discount. Garhauer used to give the c30 members a 10% discount, not sure if they do that for the c34 group, but might be worth a try?
I was able to get the end stop free with a large crescent wrench to turn the screwdriver. It is a two person job with one to keep the screwdriver in place and the second to leverage the wrench. Worked well for me.
Guys : Like Joe , I found that a square shank #3 Phyllips screwdriver with someone pushing and a second person with a Crescent wrench turning the shank does wonders on those tough screws. :thumb:
A thought