The port side rear fixed window is cracked and I'm planning on replacing it with one from Catalina Yachts in Seminole FL. However, the window frame (as well as a couple others) is also split and I'm concerned this may cause a replacement window to fail soon after it's installed. This is likely not due to lifting the hull since it's been three years since the last bottom job. Has anyone experienced similar problems with C34 window frames and/or windows? Does this look like a structural issue? Any suggestions for repairing frame splits before installing a new window? Thanks for your thoughts.
Here are some pics of the window and frames.
QuoteHas anyone experienced similar problems with C34 window frames and/or windows?
Shamrock is also a 2001, no problems like that. I will closely look at that area and let you know if there is any problem.
Jim
Randy, it looks like the crack on the inside lip is just superficial and cosmetic. I'd gouge it out a bit and see what's behind/below it. Easiest repair would be filling with Marine Tex and then sanding it down. It looks like there's more than enough "meat" on the window side of the crack. Where the crack is is not really supporting anything because the fixed portlight fits into the groove on the outside of the fiberglass.
Randy : I agree with you that the frame crack needs to be fixed and stabilized before replacing the portlight. I would take a stiff wire and probe into the crack and see how deep it goes. If as I suspect it probably goes down at least an inch or two. If so I'd try a thin flowing epoxy like Gluvit and fill / seal it down inside as far as possible, then use Marine Tex on the top cosmetic surface.
I'm somewhat baffled as to what happened to cause that kind of failure. I think I'd get ahold of Gerry Douglas at the factory (800)654 2914 X235 and Warren Tandy in Fl. (727)544-6681 and see what their thoughts are!!
A few thoughts - Good Luck
Thanks for the replies guys. It's odd no one else has seen this happen, since it happened so severely in 1, and 3 additional windows show signs of splitting. I left a message for Warren Tandy @ Catalina Yachts this AM and I'll see what he says.
I was planning to fill the voids with the remainder of a WM fiberglass repair kit on hand from one of last year's projects. Do you think epoxy and MarineTex is a better solution?
Gotta keep busy while social distancing and boat projects give a lot of satisfaction when done.
A head scratcher. Does the sealant holding the portlight to the hull show any signs of separation from the hull?
When you hear back from Warren let us know what he says.
I think the long cracks in the window is a clue but I cannot solve the puzzle. Actually the fairlead track seems to be close to the window. I believe mine on the 90 model is not that close. Wondering if somehow stress from the jib sheet block has stressed the area.
Could it be from water expanding the core? (I have no idea if this area is cored and I don't see any obvious signs there's leaks)
Our 1996 Mark 2 is doing the same thing on the foreword most end on the starboard side. This appears to be cosmetic at worst but I am eager to hear what Catalina says.
Guys- the detective in me asks; which came first; cracked plexi or the crack in window sill? Also any sign of water leak stains?
I have a C355 and just yesterday noticed that mine has a large crack in the center and much smaller than yours cracked window frame. I've had the boat for 7 years and it just did that in the last couple of weeks. I don't know what caused it but I did note that the port side is the sunny side in my slip. My guess is repeated thermal expansion/contraction.
I don't know why either the window or frame cracked. According to Warren Pandy @ Catalina Yachts, the frame cracks are not structural and easily repaired. I'm planning to repair the frames and replace 4 fixed windows. I compliment Warren for getting back to me with questions and suggestions promptly.
FYI, the below is copied from our email exchange. My comments are followed by Warren's reply.
While pushing on the inside of the headliner with my thumb, I can see the crack closing and opening. Ok, suspected that as the headliner is mostly cosmetic, esp in that area since it is never bonded like walk surfaces...
Pushing on the outside of the frame there is no movement. Also makes sense as the deck is the structural pf the two-----
The crack appears to be at least 7" deep throughout its length. Ok, pretty typical..... since that area is mostly air except for close to the window ledge where it would be fiberglass-resin putty filled about an inch or two around.
You're probably correct in that the joint between the headliner and exterior wall has detached. Yes, the 7" of air space confirm that.
So fill the gap with a polyester (or vinylester) resin putty filler. Then leave a 1/16" deep gap and fill it will some gel you can buy from CJ here.
The starboard side window above the stove also has a small crack starting to show through. I see those near non-connected "S" shaped cracks, so on those you would open those up a little with a file or Dremel™ so the thick gel will lay into it. (instead of just on top as it would only leave a thin crack)
Thx,
WP
Had a problem kinda like this on a Catalina 30 I had. Removed the windows. Used a rotary tool and carved out the space between the liner and the deck. The void was about 3/4 inch deep when I was done. Mixed up epoxy and a thickener, about like peanut butter. Filled the void around each opening. Good strong joint when I was
done. Lots of dust with the rotary tool work. Lots of prep to contain the dust, but worth the time it takes.
The bit on the rotary tool ruffs up the fiberglass so you get a good surface for bonding.
Randy,
You've well investigated the problem and have a good plan to fix it. I would suggest to look for any movement in that area. Maybe get someone to walk the deck while you check/feel for any movement. Push, pull and pry everything. I think something is moving to break that window.
QuoteThis is likely not due to lifting the hull since it's been three years since the last bottom job.
Lifting shouldn't be a problem, Shamrock gets lifted twice a year with no problems. FWIW Was on Shamrock and double checked, no problem at the window frames.
I'm only suggesting the checks in the hope you can fix this once and be done.
Jim
jmcdonald: Good idea to contain the dust and minimize clean-up. I'd of probably just put the Drexel to work and made a bigger than necessary mess.
Jim: I'll take another good look for movement before installing the new windows. BTW, Shamrock looks to be a near match with Yat.
Hi Randy,
my 1986 C34 has similar splits in several of the windows, very much like what your photos show. The windows are also crazed and in poor shape (but no cracks in them like yours) so I'll be replacing them at some stage. One of the splits is in the top edge of the window, and drips water in very heavy rain, so I need to explore where that is coming from...
Cheers,
Derek
My boat recently developed a similar frame crack in the galley, on the edge inside the plexi. I need to replace the plexi eventually, does anyone have the best current recommendation for material to use? I am in New Orleans. Also, can you explain a little more about what the 'Gel' mentioned earlier in the post is for?
Chris, I've am changing fixed windows after seeking advice here, from a local marine window repair/replacement expert, and Catalina Yachts. What I've found is.... Polycarbonate versus plexiglass is much preferred due to strength and durability. Local glass shops and suppliers don't stock the smoke colored polycarbonate used on Catalinas, so to have windows fabricated locally you'll end up paying for a full 4x8 sheet even if you need less. I ordered windows from Catalina Yachts paying $125 /ea, and received them in about 2 weeks. Their price is more than reasonable. Select Plastics is another vendor you might want to check out, but I chose to stick with our original manufacturer to support them and since they have many templates on-hand. The gel purchased from Catalina is to finish the window sill(s), is the same color and finish as the original interior, and is applied after filling gaps to restore the structural connection between the interior and exterior walls around the window frame.
I hope this helps.