I'm looking at replumbing our hot and cold water pipes.
Preference would be to get away from hose and clamp style and use push in pipes and fittings.
Any input?
And recommendations for the smallest diameter pipe?
TIA.
PAUL
Paul
My bro replumbed his Carver totally in pex.
Plastic pex fittings and a crimper are a whole lot less $$$ than using shark bite type fittings.
The crimp rings and tool do a better job than the crimp/lock type, but that crimp tool is a slight more $$$ than the other.
The newer type pex that you can use with the plastic expansion/contraction rings is REALLY cool (I was on a project where the plumbers used it) but the tool is $$$$$$$$$$ unless you can borrow one from a plumber.
I replaced the hot water lines with PEX and Sharkbite fittings. No more leaks at the water heater.
It is simple to do, looks cleaner when installed, but the PEX is stiffer. See what fittings are are available where you shop first, then think through how you will run the lines ahead of time.
Jon-what diameter Pex?
I replaced 1/2" hose with 1/2" PEX.
There's a softer version of the pex standard stuff and easier to deal with.
Lazybones- what's it called? And is it good for hot water?
I don't know what it's called but it passed the a very stringent building inspectors scrutiny in a house I recently designed. ( I think it's PEX-A)
I didn't spend a lot of time researching. The little I found is if it's white it's PEX-A. If it's red or blue it's PEX-B. If it's a shiny reddish orange it's PEX-C.
Pex-A is more flexible than PEX-B, but costs more. PEX-C is supposed to be for under floor heating systems (I think).
I used PEX-B, red. Stiffer material that made fishing from the water heater, under the floor, to under the head sink quick and easy. I used a Sharkbite 90 to make the bend up to the faucet.
Great input, thanks!
Plan is to use the standard (I think that's PEX-B) and crimp fittings.
White will be for unpressurized cold water (from the tanks to the Manifold before the pump and to the pump)
Red for pressurized hot water (from HW Tank to T then to Galley Faucet and Head Faucet and Shower Thermostat)
Blue for pressurized Cold water (from Pump to Manifold - Drinking water faucet, Galley Sink Faucet, Hot Water tank inlet, Head Cold water faucet, shower Thermostat)
Researching supply manifold options - looking for ball valves with pex connections.
I'll update my plumbing diagram when I have all the bits.
Thanks guys.
Paul
Looking forward to this... I think I'll put this on my pre-trip to-do list. I'll be drinking out of this stuff for 4 months straight!
You can use 3/8" PEX but it is much less common so it will cost more than 1/2" as will the fittings.
We only use red & blue straight lengths of PEX. Rolled PEX is a PITA to work with. We own all the different crimp tools/expansion tools etc. and find the SS crimp rings to be the best compromise. Not a fan of Shark-Bite fittings as they tend to look like "corroded" in a year (from verdigris). If using quick connects, I typically prefer the plastic Watts/SeaTech fittings instead. You can also get plastic crimp fittings too and they never corrode...
No signs of corrosion on my Sharkbite fittings installed May 2019.
The crimp tool arrived, got the one that makes or breaks the crimps.
So far I figure the cost to be about $150, which includes the Crimp tool, Pipe Cutting tool, crimps, pipe (White, Red, Blue) and the connectors which are mostly Pex to PVC and a bunch of Pex T's and L'bows.
Should start on it next month - I have another project that is creeping up in priorities - New Batteries!
Paul
Was there a consensus on pex vs the clear braided hose? I am in the process of replacing water heater, sink drains etc. I will do some of the hoses near the pump and starboard seatee tank as they are accessable and worse for wear. The longer lines to head, cockpit shower, bow, and stern tank (yes somehow I have all 3 tanks) will come later. I am not a homeowner so my gut tells me to just use the re-inforced clear tube with SS hose clamps. I understand pex is big in houses, unsure how it handles 10 foot waves and vibration in a harsh environment. I have a tentative plan to cross to the Yucatan if COVID settles down, so I'd prefer robust vs convenient.
Pex is what I am using as I replace things aboard. That said, I am using the Uponor system which requires a rather expensive expeander tool. You can rent one for pretty reasonable prices at plumbing shops so that wouldn't stop me from recommending it. The pex connections are so incredibly reliable and leak free vs barbed plastic fittings and hose clamps. That is my MAIN reason for wanting to switch.
Quote from: mainesail on February 13, 2020, 04:10:08 PM
find the SS crimp rings to be the best compromise.
I second and third that.
The data I have seen on (licensed) plumber blogs and also most plumbers I know won't use the copper compression rings. If there's a failure they say 8/10 times it will happen on those vs. on the stainless steel crimped (cinched) fittings.
Good point about PEX fittings (all types) and being proven on a boat, crashing around in heavy seas. I wonder???
I replaced my plumbing lines last years. I started out planning to replace all the clear reinforced vinyl with pex. I did do all the pressure side with the red/blue with crimped connections. When it came to running the pex from the front/aft tanks, those pipes are run up and down through lockers, I came to conclusion that it was better for me to just replace the clear vinyl with clear vinyl. I was going to have to put a bunch of 90 degree elbows in the runs and I figured that no connectors in the clear vinyl was better than pex with a number of 90 degree connectors hidden away in lockers or less accessible places.
Plus access for the crimper was going to be challenging.
I will say I was surprised at how ugly the original clear vinyl was. There was dirt inside the tubing and the tubing itself had become sticky. It's a job to replace, but well worth the effort in peace of mind.