Those of you that have purchased an outhaul from CD are your satisfied with the quality? One of my lines broke and it has been working very hard for the past few year.
Time to replace.
Thanks for any info.
Paul
Paul : You can replace it yourself. Forgot the line length (length of boom + 3 ft?) the diameter is 5/16" braid on braid lowstretch.
When you remove the gooseneck fitting - if the line is twisted inside make sure that the blocks are NOT swiveling blocks, but fixed blocks!!
A few thoughts
Paul,
I overhauled my boom 6 months ago (removed all fittings, stripped back to bare metal, repainted, added all new fittings) and installed the 10:1 outhaul from CD. Quality appears fine to me, but I am yet to do any serious sailing with it, since my boat has a long to-do list...
Cheers,
Derek
I've been thinking about replacing the outhaul. Can I use the old one to fish the new one through the boom (i'll use Ron's suggestion on material) or do I need to actually take the boom apart to get inside?
Have to remove the end caps to get to it, no way to fish a messenger line through.
I could not attach the new line to the end of the old like and pull it through?
Geo : You sure can, just sew the new line onto the old end (end to end) and pull it thru!!
A thought :thumb:
Thanks Ron - that's what I had in mind - a splice. Thought it would be easier than taking the boom apart.
It depends on what your goal is. Simple line replacement fine. If blocks are twisted inside, not runnig free, or you want more purchase—then boom must be disassembled.
Noah, I am going for total replacement. I am sure that it is original gear on the inside.
Paul
GEO : NOT a Splice - a splice might be too thick to move easily thru the sheaves!!!! Just take the 2 ends and sew them together (end to end) with a canvas sewing needle and sail repair thread!!
A thought
QuoteJust take the 2 ends and sew them together (end to end)
When changing lines I do same as Ron. A couple of passes with whipping twine sewing the lines end to end. You need a sailmakers palm to push the needle through, or make do with a hard surface. Then just a couple of wraps with electrical tape to keep it all together. It will be the same diameter as the line being replaced. Before feeding it through give it a good tug to test it, then don't pull any harder, back it out and see what the hang-up is. Only takes a few minutes. For a video.
https://www.sailrite.com/How-to-Replace-Halyard-Rope
Jim
Guys : Somewhat off the outhaul topic, but a constant diameter braid on braid splice is a difficult splice to make. I found that most riggers can't make one. I had to make one for the old Hood 915 continuous roller furling line replacement - it was functional, but not very pretty!!
A thought
I ordered the internal outhaul kit for CD and have received. I have also taken the boom ends off and ready to install. The end caps came off without any difficulty.
Hoping to install the outhaul this weekend.
Thanks for the input.
Paul
Good news that the end caps cam off easily. If you have a solid boom vang make sure that the gooseneck fitting is the the "new" fixed/solid welded version, not the rotating one.
Paul : You are lucky that as old of a boat as you have, that the boom ends came off easily!! Those of us in a salt water environment have not been so lucky!!!
A thought
Thanks for the heads up. I installed the new out haul yesterday. My gooseneck has a pin thought it to keep from rotating.
I would be interested in viewing the "new" fixed/solid welded version. Could you send a pic or web site Noah?
Thanks,
Paul
Paul,
Pics and links to the CD fixed gooseneck here. http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,7127.msg49169.html#msg49169 (http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,7127.msg49169.html#msg49169)
Dave, thanks, but I don't see a solid/welded gooseneck. Only one with a pin thought it. Not sure if this is what Noah had in mind or something else.
Thanks,
Paul
This is what I was referring to from CD's website:
"When a rigid vang is installed, it is important that the boom not rotate to eliminate unwanted load on the vang brackets. The new assembly uses a stainless steel pin through the casting and the center of the hex pin. When rigid boom vangs became popular this pin was added eliminate the rotation of the casting. As a result, the internal washer and cotter pin at the aft end of the hex pin are no longer necessary. The stainless pin secures the hex pin to the casting."
https://www.catalinadirect.com/shop-by-boat/catalina-36/rigging/standing-rigging/spar-fittings/gooseneck-casting-assy-c-28-c-30-c-34-c-36/?SearchResults=1
Sorry Paul,
I recalled I had posted about the gooseneck and went with that link. Scroll down one post and the solid gooseneck is there. Noah nailed it as usual.
Dave, I looked at the link and are you talking about the one with stainless steel pin?
Hope you had a great summer.
Paul
Yes, same as the link Noah provided. The previously rotating gooseneck is pinned to prevent rotation.
Had a great summer cruising the North Channel and some fantastic places along eastern Georgian Bay. I didn't hear you on the radio or see you but, from your previous post, it sounds like you had a good season.
Thanks Dave, we did have a great summer. Don't use the radio much. Enjoy the peace and quiet. Did explore a few new anchorages this summer.
Paul
Outhaul is fixed. :D
Paul
This is a very timely post for me. I removed my main sail last weekend for some rehab work and need to overhaul the outhaul mechanism in the boom. My boat is 200 miles away from home so I'm going to remove the boom on the next trip and bring home to break it down and service what ever is needed.
As far as the outhaul kits from CD, is it the consensus that this is the best way to go for parts?
Paul,
This is also on my to do list and was wondering if you went with the 10:1 kit and how do you like it?
Kent
Kent, yes I did go with the 10:1, it is probably over kill but it works so smooth.
Paul
Ditto on 10:1.