What is the thickest sound proofing foam used in the engine compartment. That would be for a mark 1 m25xp. I see many using 1 inch foam. defender has a 1 1/4 to a 1 1/2 for only a few dollars more. Was going to order the 1 inch but if anyone had success with thicker I may give that a go.
Just did mine you could probably use 1 1/2 for the sides but top and front would hit, with 1 inch not much room there. Infact the front or back of stairs you should reuse the plastic washer where the crank shaft sticks out.
I recently did mine and 1-inch is maximum in most places and more than efficient—considering that in our Mk1 boats the engine space is open/cut out to the aft cabin, so you can't insulate/block all sound. To cover all walls, etc. (obsessively), you will need more than one kit. Also, you will have to cut out a notch for the flywheel. Good news is: it was a BIG improvement in sound blocking and looks, when completed (over my original flattened-out, degraded, crumbling insulation).
Edit:
I used their Sounddown spray adhesive, with self-tapping screws and fender washers (not stud kit) to attach. You will also need extra mylar/silver tape that you can purchase elsewhere (cheaper) to cover all seams.
Looks like I found info in tech notes August 2008 Vol. 26, No. 3. Seems as though Ron suggested 1 1/4 inch at least for sides. looking forward to changing out old soundproofing. Crumbling mess. Thanks for the feedback.
Some pics of 1 in. Sounddown:
Thats a nice clean engine compartment Noah. Is the second from last photo the bottom steps? Looks like there is a notch cut into soundproofing for the shaft. Do the steps easily clear the shaft when putting steps back in place?
Thx. Yes, the steps panel does slide in with clearance however, I just need to be a bit careful when sliding bottom edge past flywheel that it doesn't catch on way down.
Steve : Look in the Mainsheet Tech Notes for my article on Replacing the Sound proofing (w/pictures). As I recall it was 1 1/4 " that I got from Defender. I cut it to size with a band saw!!
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Ron Hill Thanks :thumb:
Guys : When redoing the soundproofing, here is a heads-up!!
On a M25/M25XP if any of the Aluminum sound proofing facing touches the unguarded temp connection on the top of the thermostat - you'll get goofy hi-temp readings on the engine instrument temp gage.
In a Mainsheet Tech note article, I recommended that you might slip a protective boot over that connector!
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Ron— funny you mentioned this rubber boot and unprotected wiring shorting-out against the soundproofing issue. So true! I had a red rubber battery cover/boot over my engine temp sender connection wire terminal which had fallen and landed on hose below. It is shown in the circled portion of the attached photo. I later secured it back in position! 😎
Secured:
Noah : I must complement you on the cleanliness of your engine compartment! Have to admit that mine looks almost the same. :clap
A clean engine and compartment make it easy to spot leaks and helps with cooling. Some of the other owners engine compartment pictures almost make me :cry4` !!
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this thread is very timely given my current efforts to rebuild the engine compartment...
it's sooo clean the engine and dirt become transparent... :)
WOW!!! On your next trip to the great lakes would you make mine transparent also
The Kits at defender are 32" x54" as of today. Noah- How much more than one kit did you need to "obsessively" do the job? (provided the kit was the same size). If it was only 1.25 kits I may opt to order a single kit for now. For example, I do not have sound proofing on the access doors as of now and its not so bothersome. My current foam is breaking down and causing a mess.
Noah what is the white tank with the gauge on top? It is in the third picture.
Quote from: Noah on July 20, 2019, 04:49:14 PM
Some pics of 1 in. Sounddown:
Noah,
I just looked through your pictures again and noticed the insulation on door under the head sink, that's a great idea, you do get a lot of noise from that compartment. Guess what I'm doing next!
Glenn: the white "tank with gauge" is my Racor series 500 turbine fuel filter with vacuum gauge.
Chris: my insulation is a hybrid mix consisting of two kits: A 1in. Yachtsman Sound Down insulation kit from Defender, which used spray adhesive, and a 1/2 in. Sound Down (knock-off or OEM) kit from West Marine, that had peel and stick backing. I cobbled it all together and had leftovers. I also bought extra foil-style tape from West Marine and Home Depot. I went overboard on insulation but it worked well. Some places I ended up using two layers of 1/2 in. to make 1in. One kit, no matter how you slice it, won't be enough to do all surfaces, doors, etc. "compulsively", in my opinion.
I agree you can't put in to much insulation only not enough. FYI, I found the exact replacement insulation at my local chandlery, it's sold in sheets.