I noticed oil leaking last summer but could not find the source. Boat was launched today so was able to run the engine. I believe my oil sending unit is the culprit. Very hard to see but I can see oil on the tip of it. I had thought it was the oil pan gasket or rear main seal so this is actually good. I have looked around on the site but have not found the procedure yet. I think I can remove the alternator and be able to get to it. While I am in this area of the engine is there anything else I should check or perform maintenance on ? m25xp
Glenn
Do a search on the site you'll find threads on getting to and replacing the low oil pressure alarm switch. Some nightmare stories also about the exhaust manifold being in the way and it impossible to get a socket on the switch. Not to "alarm" you ( ugggh) but just so you know in case you run into an issue getting a wrench on it.
It's a standard Kubota oil switch if you don't want to get it from Westerbeke.
I just read that thread, that was a tough job. I will have to hope my manifold is not in the way.
Glenn : Look in the Mainsheet tech notes. I wrote a couple of articles about the Oil sending unit removal/installation (you don't need to remove the manifold) and another on how to "beef-up" a new sending unit so it doesn't develop a leak between the Metal and Bakelite body.
A few thoughts
Glenn, you can use the Knowledgebase spreadsheet to find those articles Ron mentions.
Quote from: Stu Jackson on April 23, 2019, 03:46:19 PM
Glenn, you can use the Knowledgebase spreadsheet to find those articles Ron mentions.
Thank you , I found them last night. I hope my job will be easier than the one I read aout last year that required cutting sockets and so forth.
I have ordered the sender for about 23 dollars from a Kobuta dealer. I took a picture with my phone as I cannot see it. It looks like I should be able to get to it by feel.
Glenn : If you have an M25XP engine? then the second wire from around the base is perplexing!?!
The wire held in the center (by the Philips head screw) is the + wire going to the engine instrument panel; the - contact is the switch threaded base. - the other wire is ????
A thought
Quote from: Ron Hill on April 28, 2019, 02:55:31 PM
Glenn : If you have an M25XP engine? then the second wire from around the base is perplexing!?!
The wire held in the center (by the Philips head screw) is the + wire going to the engine instrument panel; the - contact is the switch threaded base. - the other wire is ????
A thought
Ron: A ground. PO musta had problems w/ the switch making a good engine ground? Piss poor considering the ring terminal wouldn't make a good connection on either the switch or the block.
Glenn:
The new switch should be a Dryseal thread form (w/red goop already on it) not to use Teflon tape on it.
Confirm that the extra ground wire isn't the negative for something else, like the fuel pump or something cray cray like that, that shouldn't be on the oil switch. I'd check resistance between the engine block and a known good negative, and also to the installed switch body to make sure there's no issue exists which that wire was installed to compensate for (excuse the preposition.)
The extra wire did perplex me too. I will try to see where it goes . I had thought that I could do the job without pulling the alternator but to do it properly now I think I should. I had the alternator out last year for a rebuild so that part is not hard. Will keep you posted. PS the boat only had 2 previous owners, so I do not have a lot of extra PO stuff to deal with.
Would it be easier w/ the starter out? Just two M8 thread bolts.
Do you have a negative bus or negative power post that the ground might go to.
Quote from: KWKloeber on April 28, 2019, 05:54:25 PM
Would it be easier w/ the starter out? Just two M8 thread bolts.
Do you have a negative bus or negative power post that the ground might go to.
I have to check, I do not know.
Quote from: KWKloeber on April 28, 2019, 04:45:32 PM
Quote from: Ron Hill on April 28, 2019, 02:55:31 PM
Glenn : If you have an M25XP engine? then the second wire from around the base is perplexing!?!
The wire held in the center (by the Philips head screw) is the + wire going to the engine instrument panel; the - contact is the switch threaded base. - the other wire is ????
A thought
Ron: A ground. PO musta had problems w/ the switch making a good engine ground? Piss poor considering the ring terminal wouldn't make a good connection on either the switch or the block.
Glenn:
The new switch should be a Dryseal thread form (w/red goop already on it) not to use Teflon tape on it.
Confirm that the extra ground wire isn't the negative for something else, like the fuel pump or something cray cray like that, that shouldn't be on the oil switch. I'd check resistance between the engine block and a known good negative, and also to the installed switch body to make sure there's no issue exists which that wire was installed to compensate for (excuse the preposition.)
The new switch came today and does not have dryseal on it. Do I need Teflon tape or should I get Dryseal or leave plain?
Glenn
I'd use a little pipe dope. There's a better chance of better electrical contact I think than Teflon. Theoretically the threads would cut thru the tape, but... just check resistance, body to a known good ground, before buttoning her up.
Believe the wire is the glow plug wire you can just see it continue in the top of the picture. Goes behind the motor to the other side.
Interesting. Looks like it's pinched behind the body of the oil switch.
I replaced the sending unit today. I removed the alternator just so I could see a little of what I was doing. Job took about an hour. I got lucky getting the screw started that holds the wire on the end of the unit. Big old fingers in a small space with no visual. Anyway started engine and no leak so hopefully that was it. Some pictures..