Hey gang I upgraded the furler this year to a Hood 808 SL and it's awesome compared to the continuous line furler that was on the boat before. I've been using the double sheave from the continuous setup and it works, just not well.
I'm planning to get new blocks but can't decide whether to go outside or inside with sheaves or fairleads or a ratchet block at the end. Does anybody have a good setup that they can share? I want to route on the starboard side and furl from the helm.
Thanks!
I have a small block on the pulpit, led to Johnson bullseye fairleads on the outside of the stanchions, to a small non-ratcheting Ronstan block at the base of the pushpit, tied off to a pushpit mounted cleat. Outside is clearer, sheaves aren't needed, I'd thought about a ratcheting block but after twenty years still haven't put one on. My largest headsail is a 110 on a ProFurl LCI32. I sailed 18 years on SF Bay with this system before we moved here in 2016.
Joy : I made the same change many years ago. Wrote an article about the Hood 808 in the Mainsheet tech notes.
I ran the 3/8" furling line from the open drum, to the base of the bow pulpit swivel block, thur "around stanchion blocks" that keep the line on the outside of the stanchions, then into the cockpit.
I have a small #16 Lewmar winch aft of the #46 primary winch that that furling line went into.
A few thoughts
I have installed a ratcheting block with cams on my furling line and I'm really happy with this setup.
Nautos part # 92076
I installed the same set up as MarcZ several years ago using a Garhauer product and I think it is one of the best upgrades I have made. It allows rapid reefing in adverse conditions with minimal stress.
Brian McPhillips
When I unfurl the sail, I keep tension on the furling line so it winds up on the drum tightly. Wouldn't the cam cleat on the block make that difficult because by keeping tension on the line cause it to engage in the cam? I see how it will help in furling (and reefing), but going the other way seems difficult.
Engaging cam requires "down" force (angle) and little tug.
Mainsheet with cam block is commonly seen on many one design cases. In that environment unwanted "locks" wouldn't be tolerated for sure ;)
FYI Cam bracket angle is actually adjustable on most of them.
Looking at your signature I realized you can just stop by on the way to Rock Hall for little demonstration.
This is what I did. Put a Harken lever lock? block on top of the OEM turning foot block for the jib sheets. One picture is the starboard side block that's unchanged. Works like a champ.
Jim
I like the lever lock. Garhauer actually has that option and will fit the same OEM holes. I've always thought of adding one ON TOP of the already sheet turning block, so the furling line can pass through the one with the lever lock. You just would need to use longer bolts through the same holes in the deck. About the cam cleat. I know that a down force is needed to lock the line in the cams. But if you're adding tension to that line, while pulling the jib sheets, you can accidentally lock the line into the cams. I've seen people put rope clutches for the furling line to hold it.
QuoteGarhauer actually has that option and will fit the same OEM holes
Wish I'd known that. Would have saved me some work. IMHO think it's the way to go.
Jim
That type of jammer has superior holding power when compared to cam block and it looks "cleaner" too 8)
For me downside of that solution was that either variant of a jammer block (spring-loaded or not) still requires foot and hand or both hands to operate in controlled fashion .
Joyride so where is the old furler? I'm not ready to part with mine... would be interested in parts from it.
Thanks!
Jim, Roc,
Really like your lever lock. I looked on the Garhauer website and didn't find the lever or the option for the OEM holes.
Looks like they updated their website. It's the foot block with clutch
https://www.garhauermarine.com/deck-blocks-hardware/foot-blocks-with-clutch.html
Don't know if the Garhauser would work like the Harken. I can pull the line with both hands then move the line back against the lever jaws and the line will lock when eased. Is the Garhauser left and right hand. Just questions to ask, the Garhauser still probably the way to go.
Jim