I just removed the original aluminum fuel tank yesterday because it started leaking. Fortunately, we were on the boat and caught it before it became a major clean-up. After reading the life expectancy is 15 - 20 years and mine is 30, it owes me nothing. Catalina Direct wants nearly $950 for the replacement plus shipping. I plan on calling a place my marina uses for custom tanks to see how much they want. Also wondering about a plastic fuel tank. Anyone with experience, thought etc. regarding plastic and or Catalina Direct alternatives? Should I have a tank built, I'd insist on baffles regardless of the material.
Thanks for your thoughts...
-Bill
Bill,
Plastic is great for dinghy tanks or transporting small amounts of fuel from one place to another but I don't think I'd want to use it to hold 25 gallons of fuel. My aft water tank(plastic)developed a stress fracture and began to leak, while it was a pain in the butt it was just water. You can imagine the problems if it had been fuel.
Like you said your original owes you nothing, if it was me I'd bite the bullet and get the Catalina replacement.
I am surprised by your acessment that the life expectancy of aluminum fuel tank is 15-20 years. Would have thought a longer life expectancy. Hopefully, that's not a universal rule, as my 1990's tank is still going strong leak-free and I have no plans to alter or replace it. Knock on teak!
Believe it or not, my 2000 MkII came with a plastic fuel tank, OEM from Catalina Yachts. Not sure if they do this anymore on the newer boats. There was a time where my plastic tank was permeating diesel fuel smell, but it's now been several years where that is not apparent. At that time, I contacted CY about the situation and they were willing to sell me a metal fuel tank at cost (~$500). I also contacted a local tank fabricator and the cost for me to have one custom made to match the size of the plastic tank was also ~$500. I never did replace the plastic tank, as I said, the smell went away. And yes, I did check to see if the smell came from a fuel leak anywhere and that was not the case. As a matter of fact, all you had to do is sniff the wall of the tank and there was a strong diesel smell. I concluded it was going right through the tank walls.
If you do have a new metal tank built, be sure have them put at least one inspection port for cleaning it out. One at each baffle would be ideal. Also to get super fancy, how about an extra pick-up and return fitting for a dedicated fuel polisher setup?
Guys : FYI, Catalina Factory stopped stocking plastic fuel tanks!!
If you use MDR "diesel Water Zorb" oil based (Defender) you'll prevent the "rust thru" in an Al alloy fuel tank.
A few thoughts
Maybe you should check to see if it's repairable. The places that make custom tanks could probably tell you.
BTW I had a '89 Catalina and never a problem.
Mike
There was a "new" aluminum tank for sale on this forum awhile back. May be still available??
http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,9815.0.html
Quote from: Mike and Joanne Stimmler on September 14, 2018, 01:26:54 PM
Maybe you should check to see if it's repairable. The places that make custom tanks could probably tell you.
BTW I had a '89 Catalina and never a problem.
Mike
Mike,
With what I've read about life expectancy for aluminum tanks, the increased risk with the addition of ethanol in the fuel and not knowing whether or not previous 27 years of owners treated the fuel and a .090 thickness tank, I'm not inclined to repair the tank. I might repair this only to have another leak, potentially worse. I'll sleep better on-board with my family knowing I replaced the 30 year old tank.
Quote from: Noah on September 14, 2018, 04:23:26 PM
There was a "new" aluminum tank for sale on this forum awhile back. May be still available??
http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,9815.0.html
Thanks Noah, the posting says its sold
Eastport Rigging in Galesville MD repaired my 10+ year old replacement tank. In my situation, the tank developed a leak at weld/soldering point. So depending on where your tank is leaking, you might be able to repair it. In addition to repairing the tank, they clean it and pressure tested the tank.
Thanks for all the great info and suggestions. I went with a new aluminum tank from Ezell Industries in Fla. I believe they're the manufacturer for Catalina. They had the drawing and specs. The tank arrived at the marina yesterday and I'll shoot down to the boat and install this weekend along with all new fuel lines. BTW, they were extremely helpful, accommodating and had an excellent price!
Did you have them install at least one inspection/clean-out port?
Quote from: Noah on September 27, 2018, 08:58:36 PM
Did you have them install at least one inspection/clean-out port?
It's identical to the fuel tank from Catalina Direct. Two inspection/clean-out ports.
UPDATE:
So much for my confidence and wishful thinking: my original 1990 aluminum fuel tank Started leaking last month! Fortunately, I discovered the leak after it had only leaked a minimal amount of diesel into the bilge and rushed to the fuel dock to pump out my FULL tank in time. (See last pic). Diesel had NOT saturated the (semi-glassed over) plywood shelf it sits on and shelf was salvagable once cleaned-up and repainted with two coats of Interlux bilgecoat. I epoxy repotted and redrilled the attachment holes for tank hold downs. I also will sand and paint the bilge area under the aft berth while in there.
I ordered a new tank from manufacturer, Ezell in FL. It cost $614 plus $100 for shipping to CA. Ezell Is also the supplier to Catalina Direct, who sells the same tank for $950 + tax + shipping+ crating charge for a total of $1,127. So I saved approx $400 ordering from Ezell.
The new "replacement tank took three weeks to build and arrive and features some design changes/upgrades standard including; thicker aluminum material and two inspection/clean-out ports on top. They also come with a fuel sender installed. I also had them add a second hold down tab on the "pointy" end of the tank—which my original tank had, but the new ones don't.
UNFORTUNATELY, all has not gone 100% smoothly. The new tank arrived via UPS DAMAGED. It was very poorly packaged in a cobbled-together cardboard box with tissue paper packing and no blocking. Guess CDs adding a $25 crating charge to their cost was reasonable. But was not a issue/option with Ezell tank purchase and I assumed proper packaging was a given. Apparently, UPS must have dropped my "cardboard boxed" tank (HARD) in transit as one of the aluminum hold down feet was badly bent. The hold down can probably be bent back, but I am a bit worried about possible damage to the integrality of tank, after being dropped hard enough to bend the foot.
I am in discussion with Ezell as to my next steps: i would like to have it bent back and and re-pressure tested by a local shop here is San Diego, as apposed to taking it to UPS to re-package properly and sending it back to FL and waiting another 3+-weeks for Ezell to repair/replace. I will keep you all posted...
I had the exact same shipping experience from Ezell. My tank arrived yesterday in a very poorly packaged shipping box-- consisting of two overlapping Walmart boxes taped together. Like your tank, my mounting flange was damaged and can't be mounted on the tank shelf. There is also a large scratch on the bottom corner where the box blew apart, and a ding in an upper corner where it hit something hard en route.
After receipt, I called them immediately but they were already closed for the day. I then sent an email asking to be contacted Monday. When ordering the tank, Ezell was easy to work with and the turnaround was pretty quick.
I'll let you know how things go concerning the damaged tank. It cost $110 to ship the tank UPS ground (I live in the PNW), and I'm not inclined to bear the cost to return the tank for repairs.
Patches
Sorry for the unfortunate shipping experiences. I had mine built and shipped from Ezell via freight last Fall and it was undamaged.
We replaced our fuel tank 5 years ago with one fabricated at a local machine/welding shop. At the time CD wanted $540 + shipping and a 3-4 week build/ delivery time. I was concerned about shipping damage and that swayed me to use the local shop. The new tank was $600 and I had it in a week. I took the shop the old tank and they made an EXACT copy but with thicker walls and a working sending unit! It came with an additional inspection port. It lined up perfectly with all the mounting holes from the old tank.
My point is that there are plenty of high quality welders / shops out there. And you avoid the shipping Samsonite gorillas that can destroy a quality tank on its way to you. Just need to do your homework on who to go with. Ask around in your boating community. The shop I used has built a reputation for building quality marine fuel tanks and I found that out by asking the local boaters and fishermen.
Paul
Issues with damage to my new tank as a result of packaging/shipping, resolved successfully! Ezell agreed to absorb any costs involved in shipping, repairing or replacing the tank. Meanwhile, I took the tank to a my favorite local marine welding/machine shop who realinged the bent hold down foot and inspected the tank—pronouncing it "excellent quality and 100% good to go." And, my local shop did repair and testing for FREE! All's well that ends well. I will install new fuel tank this weekend, once I complete replacing the sound insulation in my engine compartment and detailing the engine. One project ALWAYS leads to another. 8)
Quote from: Noah on February 27, 2019, 05:17:54 PM>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
I will install new fuel tank this weekend>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Great to hear you resolved the issue.
Many folks would be interested particularly about how you dealt with the vent and fill hoses when you put the new tank in.
Good luck, minimal skinned knuckles and all. :D
Noah : Look in the Mainsheet tech notes at my article on changing out the insulation in the engine compartment.
I got my new insulation from Defender, used the old stuff as kind of a pattern (did some remeasuring) and it was best cut on a band saw. My engine was removed, so it was easy to install.
A few thoughts
Thx Ron, I read it. I too am using Soundown, but only 1 in. Thick —as it is very narrow/tight with engine in place. Have all pieces patterned and cut—including some misc. such as a hole in stair/back to clear the flywheel, etc. and all dry fit in place! Once engine is dry (from degreaser/water/touch-up paint) I will install insulation, using spray glue (where possible) and some screws with fender washers. Unfortunately, while I did NOT make any measuring/cutting errors, I am short of material for engine doors, but may make it using pieced-together scraps. Also needed to buy extra mylar seam/edge tape. Annoying! Sorry to hijack fuel tank thread. I will start/transfer to a new thread with pics when done.
Hi Noah, how much does the fuel tank weigh when empty?
No more than 30 lbs. just awkward. I carried on and off myself but was tricky going down ladder, so luckly got helpful dock bystander for assistance.
I've been trying to resolve my damaged tank issue with Ezell as well. [Side Note: my hull no. is 1016, and just two hulls later than Noah's, so the fuel tanks appear to have failed just about the same time.]
Anyway, I concur that the packaging from Ezell was not adequate, and exactly the same as what was described by Noah in his initial post. I would say that if they continue to package tanks that way, there is a better than 50% chance that the mounting flange will be damaged during shipping. If you purchase a tank from Ezell, I highly recommend that you ask "how do you protect the tank, taps, and mounting tab when packaging for shipment?"
Don't get me wrong, Ezell's are very nice folks, and make excellent tanks. You will just be in the position of having to straighten out the bent mounting flange before mounting the tank, and the tanks may sustain some additional scratches. They told me yesterday that all I needed to do was take a hammer and "tap" the bent corners on the mounting flange back into position. This made it clear to me what the fix would be if I returned the tank, and that is not worth three weeks of my time to have them do it--which they estimated would take "less than a minute." Plus, the box it came in was in such poor condition it could not be re-used. Annoying.
Anyway, I plan to give it a go with a hammer, and then put 1/4" neoprene strips, 2" wide and spaced every 2", on the bottom with 5200 to keep the tank from sitting directly on the shelf to prevent future pinhole corrosion. This method is well explained elsewhere on the inter web.
I also want to note that the vent on the Ezell tank appears to be positioned slightly further forward on the tank, which may require a longer vent hose to the fitting on the transom.
Patches
Noah, In your 5th pic you have a interesting end on your larger hose. Could you give some more info on this end. Looks nice and neat.
Take care,
Paul
Paul- I assume you are referring to the nylon strainer fitting that is on the pick-up end of my manual bilge pump hose? It was that way when I purchase the boat. Sorry, I don't know the source/brand. I will take a photo of it flipped over when I am at the boat in the next couple days and post/or PM you.
Noah, Thanks. Would appreciate a pic.
Paul
Paulus : You can also use a piece of nylon window screen - held in place (screen over the hose opening) with a wire tie!!
A thought
Quote from: Patches on March 01, 2019, 09:25:16 AM
I also want to note that the vent on the Ezell tank appears to be positioned slightly further forward on the tank, which may require a longer vent hose to the fitting on the transom.
Patches
I replaced all the lines associated with the fuel when I replaced my tank with the Ezell. Yes, it took a longer vent hose. I think the fill was a little longer too.