The base of the forward, port side stanchion on my stern rail has cracked. I believe this was caused when I raised my dinghy on the davits without having the lifelines snapped together but not positive.
I have a quote from railmakers of $1500 including shipping for an entirely new pushpit. Local welding repair would be around $400.
This is also the stanchion through which the wire for the stern light travels as well as my GPS antenna. Both will have to be removed for welding. Solar cable and diesel fill are near-by although I was told they would not be problematic for welding but the rear stanchion will need to be unbolted so the problem stanchion can be raised sufficiently away from the fiberglass.
I don't see any evidence of corrosion on the other bases and am inclined to repair the single stanchion but would hate to have problems with the others shortly down the road.
Any advice or thoughts?
Thanks, Dave
Even if the others needed welding in the future, you could get 4 welded before exceeding the cost of new.
Dave,
I'd find a good marine rail maker then remove the whole unit(I've done it not a big deal)and take it to them. They'll do a much better job in their shop on the bench and they can probably reinforce it at the same time. Anybody charging $400 for a single weld is looking to get rich quick, that weld shouldn't cost more than 50 or 60 bucks.
Did the starboard side on mine, cracked just like that. Pulled the whole rail and Tig welded it. Bolts for Port side you can access when you remove dash panel and cut wiring for stern light. Install a connector for when you install. The rear two stantions have no nuts on inside so just remove. The starboard side is a different story, you can climb Into the rear locker after removing whatever is mounted there or do as I did. Install an access Port in the ceiling of the rear hanging locker ceiling. You will be able to get to the nuts from there. My boat is a Mk1 so if your's is newer access May be different.
Do a search for "stern pulpit" pictures of the access hole
Was that $400 quote for doing it in situ? Seems high for a simple weld unless they are coming out to the boat.
Paul
Quote from: britinusa on September 04, 2017, 10:23:14 AM
Was that $400 quote for doing it in situ? Seems high for a simple weld unless they are coming out to the boat.
Paul
Yes, on site.
I think at this point, I will wait a month and pull the whole rail off. I still need to figure out what to do with the GPS cable.
Same thing happened to my port side.
Welder came to the dock and did a nice job welding in place.
A couple hundred dollars if I remember correctly.
FYI, I modified my stern rail by cutting out the bar between the stanchions, just above the top of the transom (stepping over it was an accident waiting to happen)
One of the consequences is that if a rail has to be removed, I only have to remove one side! :D
Paul
Paul,
I did the same with mine, but I removed both sides and took them to the Railmaker and had them seal the holes and weld in a third reinforcing stanchion at the bend to make up the loss of support when you remove the center rail.
Dave, Just a thought. I was an instructor at a tech college and vocational school. Took my stern rail to school and had the crack welded and all 4 reinforced. With davits adding stress, you may want to add 3" or 4" tall triangular gussets between the bolts on the base. Or how about a friend (like kh3412) that could weld it for you for a boat ride.
Just another option and it beats $400. Hope the project goes well.
I am curious, how do davits add stress to the pushpit/stern pulpit?
Or how about a friend (like kh3412) that could weld it for you for a boat ride.
Would love to Phil, but think shipping would be to much
Quote from: Noah on September 05, 2017, 06:50:23 PM
I am curious, how do davits add stress to the pushpit/stern pulpit?
There are two attachment points for each davit, one on the transom and another on the top rail. Normally with the life lines snapped shut, the load is taken by all the stanchions rather than than just the stern rail.
Too bad, that makes it tricky. Most I've seen are standalone, independent of the pushpit.