Does anOne have a copy of a 2013 MainSheet article from the C36 association on replacing the 500 VW windless. I am getting ready to replace mine and I saw revenge to it but got rid of old issues when we moved and downsized.
What windlass are you replacing your old one with?
I am looking at the Maxwell VW10-8. It supports the 5/16 8 or 10mm chain and rope rode in the gypsy. I just replaced the Anchor Rode with 150' of 5/16 8mm chain and 200' of rope rode. I am trying to validate date the mounting is close to the 500 VW. Once I am done you are more than welcome to come over and take a look.
Not sure if your 500 series windlass (which is originally designed to be mounted vertically but Catalina mounted horizontally in my MK I), is mounted the same way in your MK II, but the hole pattern should be the same. The hole pattern diagram from the manual is attached.
Yeah, mine is horizontal in the locker. Talked to Maxwell and they recommend the RC8 and VW10 8 or 10 mm. Ordered the VW10-8mm this AM from defender with the wireless remote. Will install when back at end of month.
Looks like a great piece of gear! Yes, I would love to come by and see it and your canvas work, too. You are going to cost me a fortune!
Quote from: bayates on August 30, 2017, 12:05:06 PM
Yeah, mine is horizontal in the locker. Talked to Maxwell and they recommend the RC8 and VW10 8 or 10 mm. Ordered the VW10-8mm this AM from defender with the wireless remote. Will install when back at end of month.
You will find the motor is larger in diameter with the corresponding hole pattern. Boring the larger hole was not overly difficult. There is a Cat36 article that explains the process quite well that helped greatly in our install.
I replaced my 500 with the VW10-8. You'll have to bore out the hole a bit as dfloeter said. It's an excellent replacement. The wiring and breaker are already heavy enough to support the motor.
You mentioned you were getting the wireless remote. If your MK II is like mine, the OEM windlass was one-direction. To utilize the reverse-direction capability of the wireless remote, you'll need a 2-way solenoid. FYI, here's the one I bought: http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1%7C2276108%7C2276149%7C2290057&id=132560 (http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1%7C2276108%7C2276149%7C2290057&id=132560)
Like Dave said it's a great replacement. Mine came with the larger breaker and Maxwell recommended an increase in wire size from my original 4 gauge to 2 gauge. Instead of swapping out the wires I added another 4 gauge run to both pos and neg resulting in a larger cross section that the single 2 gauge cable. This is a bit of overkill but last week the windlass did not hesitate when pulling up the 33 pound hook, 20 feet of chain, a full load of clay and half of a tree. I was so happy to not be pulling that load up by hand.
Does anyone have pictures of the new windlass once installed. I am looking to do this upgrade as well. I have been running the chain through the drum and tailing it for years. Not the best set up but it works. Had enough of muddy hands with lots of little metal bits that strip off the drum as the chain shreds the drum.
I can shot a few later today. The photos won't show the important part behind the panel but will at least show the fit.
Hi Dietrich
Do you remember the length of the run for the additional #4 cable? I know a single #4 is on the edge of spec (35 ft), though Maxwell states "Cable size recommendations are based on a maximum 10% voltage drop when operating the windlass under load, smaller cables may be used however a drop in performance can be expected."
I have a VW500 with a chain gypsy and all-chain rode, so I'm OK for now ... as long as I don't snag any trees. The 500lb pull and 1/4" chain is somewhat disconcerting, though, and I may be looking at this upgrade in the future. I'll also probably be helping Brian (the original poster) with this work.
I'm afraid I do not recall the length of the run exactly but maybe around 30'? The negative went from the ground buss at the battery bank along the starboard side and the positive wire I believe ran on port. They are of similar length in spite of starting from different locations.
I was out at the boat earlier but it was raining so hard I could not shoot any p[ictures of the install. I may have time tomorrow while sailing out into Lake Michigan.
All,
I was able to get the original article from the author (Chic Lasser) on the C36 website. I will ask if I can post it here. Has pictures and other great info. I intend to document as much as possible with pictures during install.
The windless and remote arrived today but install windows will not happen till after trip to Catalina.
Is a separate battery required for the windlass. I've been thinking of adding one but haven't looked into it too deeply. And do you need to use all chain rode or can you have a combination chain/rope?
It would be nice not having to replace toenails once a season when the anchor locker drops on my feet while I'm hauling the anchor in.
QuoteDoes anyone have pictures of the new windlass once installed.
Here are some pictures of my windless. Maxwell Freedom 500. Mostly factory with the reverse switch added. Works great. Added feature, I remove the rode and use the drum to go up the mast. Just have a couple of blocks to lead the halyard to the drum, a good person tailing and toe pressure is all it takes to send 200# up the mast.
Jim
More.
Here is one photo our Maxwell VW10 in the well. (//)
All,
I have the original article from the author Chic Lasser and able to send out with his permission. But unable to post it as file size to large with pictures. I even converted to PDF format to dhrink it but not enough. Send me a note and I will email to anyone who wants it.
Dietrich,
My upgrade looks just like yours. I wish we had room for a second switch for "reverse." Fortunately the remote works well.
While not sure if I mentioned it before but my remote cost $12.40 from Amazon and still operated at 425 feet away.
So far so good on this key fob sized remote but like Dave said, it saves trying to install a down button. I have been wondering if one day we'll find ourselves within 425' of another remote using the same frequency.
I know this thread is a bit old but which remote are you using? I'm looking to replace stock windless with the VW10 soon. TIA
I am using the very expensive one :shock: that is designed to match it. Plus I have its corded version as well, as a "back-up" that plugs into a socket in the anchor locker. Both work well but....lots of $$
https://www.defender.com/search.html?q=maxwell%20aa710%20wireless%20handheld%20remote%20windlass%20controller%20%26%20rode%20counter
I installed a version from this company for a customer that wanted to wirelessly control a dinghy davit. Their system is adaptable to any brand of hardware (in my application it was used to controll Warn hoist drums). They also have larger remotes that float. It was a very nifty setup.
https://www.quickusastore.com/boat-supply/accessories/wireless-remotes-and-receivers/rrc-wireless-pocket-remote/
Thanks, I was hoping to get the info on the $12.99 Amazon special mentioned above. I have a MKii with just the rope drum. Is the swap strait forward or is there any modifications needed?
The Amazon price went up to $17.99 but that includes to transmitters and I initially only had one. Search for Liebmaya windlass remote and at that price you will find the receiver and two transmitters that are about the size of a car remote. The remotes have worked for years with the only issue being they do do not like to make the trip to the bottom on an anchor check. Salt water kills them.
Maybe I mentioned this before but my initial test showed a 450' range on the transmitter. With that range I hope few people use these units as I do not know how many different frequencies are used. I hope to never encounter another user on 403mhz while raising the hook. I did buy another remote/receiver as a backup and got one marked 404mhz and will change out the receiver if I go for another swim. The battery in the transmitter seems to have a good lifespan. So far so good.
Thanks for the info!
Guys : My major regret is that when I installed my windlass - is that I didn't install a down switch. The solenoid is set up for it and another switch and it's not that costly!!
So Don't make the same mistake that I did. Have both "up" and "down" switches!!!
A thought
Ron- EDIT:
No room for two foot switches on the MKl SINGLE-DOOR locker set-up as Catalina installed the up switch taking up too much real estate. So I decommissioned my up foot switch and go with a wireless remote, as well as a wired remote that can be plugged in to a waterproof socket that is inside the anchor locker.
I have never considered a wireless remote for an anchor windlass on a c34 till you memtioned it Noah. It certainly makes for a great short handed anchoring set up! I might have to consider that when I get to installing a windlass.
I have an up/down switch hard wired at the helm, and an up/down wireless remote for my Maxwell windlass. The remote allows me to walk around the boat and works great for single handing. Plus no additional holes in the boat.
Sorry folks I meant no room for two foot switches inside my MKl SINGLE-DOOR anchor locker.
I dont think there is room on my MKii either for a second foot switch unfortunately. I like the idea of installing the controls at the helm. Question: Can I reuse the existing solnoid or do I need to purchase the one you can buy with it? I havent opened up the area yet to see whats what. TIA
QuoteI dont think there is room on my MKii either for a second foot switch
Lots of room. Shamrock is also a MKll and has both foot switches. The only problem is the anchor locker lid, had to modify it or the down switch would activate when the lid was stepped on. Two previous owners lived with it that way. Only really need a foot switch and a second solenoid. But, if I remember correctly, the kit that Maxwell sells for the up/down comes in a box and is neater fit.
Jim
I completed my installation this weekend. It wasn't a direct swap like I had hoped. I was able to find a spot for the second switch. I went with the 3/8 gypsy in hindsight I would have gone with 5/16 because I am having an issue with the chain bunching up.
Interior view
Lucky-
You can read about my observations/experience with installing the VW10-8 windlass in the thread below.
https://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,11188.msg88997.html#msg88997
Meanwhile: I like the windlass, it is very powerful. However, it has been a "learning project". These observations/lessons learned in the attached thread and here, may help you.
1. I think your choice of 3/8 chain is a mistake and adding to your stacking/jamming problems:
Our boats don't need anything larger than 5/16 and some use 1/4.
2. The lead angle from windlass to the bow roller is not helping. I built a spacer on mine, out of G10, to go between locker side bulkhead and the windlass base. This improved the angle of attack. Eliminated most all jumping off of the gypsy.
3. I had 40 ft. of 5/16 and 350 ft. of 8-plait rode and did not have enough room for it all in anchor locker without stacking problems. My first fix was to coil 1/2 of the line and hang it on a piece of PVC pipe in the locker on the side of the locker using the molded in shank indents which were intended to hold a Danforth-style anchor. That sort of worked and gave the chain a rode more drop clearance under the windlass.
4. Just yesterday, I replaced all rode (40ft. Chain and 350 fr. 8-plait) with 200 ft. Of 5/16 chain. This takes up much less room in the chain locker and should give plenty of drop space for chain to fall. I will test this weekend and report back. I will keep my old rode set-up (aboard boat in cockpit locker) to attach to 200 ft. Of chain with quick link on the rare occasion I have to anchor in deeper water.
Noah, I wish I would have found that thread before I started my install. That spacer looks great. The 3/8 chain may be overkill but I always oversize my groundtackle. I've been in some big blows at anchor and its nice to have when its needed. But it is indeed causing me a problem with this windlass. I'm going to have to find a way get some more space behind the chain. The lead angle is not ideal but something ill have to live with. I look forward to hearing how the all chain rode works for you. cheers
Lucky : I don't believe that the lead angle (although it isn't straight) is you chain falling problem.
What you might try is to change your nylon rode to braid on braid. I found the 3 strand to get stiff and the B on B will fall / fold nicely and NEVER get stiff (it's also stronger!!). I split my anchor well and you might want to do the same. That way the nylon could go on the port side (of the separation) and the chain on the starboard side because the chain will fall directly down!!
A few thoughts
Roger that. I agree the chain angle isn't the cause. I currently do have my chain locker divided however the chain falling problem seems to be with the distance from the gypsy to the back of the chain locker. If there is a twist in the chain, instead of rolling over and correcting itself on sequential links it binds up in the area same with retrieval. I am able to forward and reverse it to fix but what a PITA after all the money spent and hours installing. I am considering doing some fiberglass work to make that area larger. Another thought I hope is true is that it may correct itself after anchoring with it so the chain will be straighten out so to speak.
Ron— I believe his issue is with the WV10-10 windlass—uses 3/8 chain, which leaves very little clearance between the gypsy and the back wall of anchor locker, causing it to jam. Also, the larger size chain results in more bulk, taking up more space. IMO this COULD, cause him stacking problems based on the amount of chain/rope rode he uses. I agree, 8-plait does take up less room than 3-strand snd should help.
As far as the lead from windlass to bow roller goes; for me that was causing even my 5/16 in. chain to jump, resulting in it jamming against the bulkhead or the rope occasionally to totally free-fall.
Here is what I tried in order to eliminate 1/2 of my 350 ft. rode, before I went to all chain. I also added a sheet of thin stainless steel behind windlass for chain chafe protection. Not sure if that "protection" helped or hurt but looks cool :abd:
Lucky : I believe that Noah has a point (that I missed) There may be? a problem because there is insufficient distance between the chain and the aft wall of the anchor locker.??
My suggestion would be to find someone that would be willing to loan you their 5/16" chain so you could try the smaller chain out and see if it helps. Then you can decide to change to the 5/16" chain or stay with the 3/8" and modify the aft wall of the locker??
I went with a gypsy only which will handle both the 1/4" HT chain and the 1/2" Braded nylon. My 1988 didn't have a built in mold for the windless so I had to make a bracket and could position the motor so I got a straight shot from the bow roller. Also with no molded housing for the windless, I had to go with a vertical gypsy because I didn't have room for a drum. So each installation has it's own quirks!!
A few thoughts