Cool Change is back after 3 months in the North Channel and Georgian Bay. I installed a new charger last spring. I have 4 golf cart batteries(1 large battery) and a starting battery. I had left the charger on the factory setting(sealed) and had no issues. We only used shore power 14 days during this summer. Noticed this summer that my charger only ran for a few minutes and then went into maintenance mode when plugged into shore power. Should I have programed it for flooded batteries? And also would this charged detect that the batteries were being charged by the solar panel? I called the company, the young man I spoke to seems to think along these lines but was not a good listener. Would be interested in some of your thoughts. Had no issues with our electrical needs.
Thanks,
Paul
Use the profile(s) that most closely match the battery manufacturers' recommendations -- ie whatever the particular golf carts are looking for, and the starter is looking for. Get those and program accordingly.
-kk
kk
I programmed them according to the golf cart batteries when I got home, have not had a change to try it yet as the batteries were fully charged. This charger will only let you set it to the presets for flooded.
Thanks,
Paul
What are your battery mfgrs/model numbers?
Model # T125
Paul
Ok, so the T125s are looking for 14.82v / 13.5v and 16.2v equalization. You used the Flooded Preset #1? Pretty close except for the equalization (which is 15.5v.)
You can always use the custom setting and dial it all in closer.
Previously it was charging at too low a voltage (14.4v)
And the reserve battery?
-kk
The starting battery get charged when we go into an anchorage or leave an anchorage. Seems to keep it topped up. Have checked with voltage meter.
Thanks,
Paul
Hi Ken,
When you say too low at 14.4v, where did the 14.4v come from?
Hi Paul,
I did not change the voltage from the preset values that came with the charger when I did my upgrade. The terminology is a little different between mfr's, but the Promariner 1240P pre-set values align with the Trojan data sheet charging instructions for the T105 and T125 (12V).
As far as I can tell there is only one owners manual for the ProNautic line of marine chargers.
The ProNautic owners manual preset values for a flooded battery type are:
Conditioning 14.8 vdc
Auto Maintain 12.8-13.6 vdc
Equalization 15.3-15.4 for 240 minutes
The Trojan data sheet charging instructions for the T105 and T125 (12V) are:
Absorption 14.8 vdc
Float 13.2 vdc
Equalization 15.5 vdc
I'm curious how your charging system works with solar and without an ACR or echo charge feature for the reserve/start battery. Do you have a dual output alternator? Do you have an external regulator? How is solar interconnected to the shore power and engine charging system?
Jon asked a good question. Is Paul suggesting that his starting battery is currently isolated and is charged only by the engine's alternator, or just stating that however it's connected seems to be working okay?
"The starting battery get charged when we go into an anchorage or leave an anchorage. Seems to keep it topped up. Have checked with voltage meter."
If it was indeed isolated then the alternator wouldn't charge both it and the house battery. Thus, presumably there is some sort of interconnect via either a combiner relay, diode-based charge distributor, or echo charger. Knowing what is used is important in ensuring that the charger settings serve both the house and starting battery well.
Also, one cannot determine state of charge with a simple volt meter check, so I would not be comfortable with "Seems to keep it topped up. Have checked with voltage meter." without knowing more.
JR
My original thread asked if both battery banks had to be the same for this charger. Jon W. did a great job of addressing the house battery(4golf cart bank). No comments if this same setting is used for the starting battery(sealed) as this charger is a "smart charger". The only interconnect when the motor is running is the battery switch on the panel. You cannot program for the different size battery banks or type: flooded vs a sealed. The second question pertained to the solar panel. Would this charger detect that the house battery is being charged when on shore power or would they work together?
I did not mean to be flippant about some of the other questions that did not pertain to my original thread.
1. I test my house batteries with a hydrometer at the beginning of the season and once during the summer, at end of the season and use a volt meter in between.
2. My batteries are separate banks. Connected only by the battery switch.
3. My starting battery is only charged with the motor alternator during entering and leaving anchorages. It is also charged when plugged into shore power.
4. The golf cart batteries are directly connected to my solar panel. They can also be charged by the engine alternator(remember battery switch) or plugged into shore power. I never leave the boat plugged into shore power if I leave it.
Have used this system for many years. The only new items to my electrical system is a solar panel and a "smart charger".
Thanks,
Paul
Quote from: Paulus on September 02, 2016, 03:40:21 AM
My original thread asked if both battery banks had to be the same for this charger. Jon W. did a great job of addressing the house battery(4golf cart bank). No comments if this same setting is used for the starting battery(sealed) as this charger is a "smart charger".
I know I have likely beat this horse to death but the battery type is pretty irrelevant. What is relevant is the batteries recomended absorption and float
voltage.
We really need to stop looking at the
words on a chargers pre-set list and instead look at the
VOLTAGES behind the words. AGM, GEL, Flooded, FDC etc. are
words and they mean absolutely nothing without knowing the VOLTAGES behind those words. One manufactures voltage for AGM will NOT always be the same as the next thus you should only focus on the VOLTAGES the words represent.. For some AGM batteries you will be much better served using the FDC setting than the AGM setting but the
custom setting will better be able to match the manufacturers recommended absorption & float voltages..
Trojan's are best charged at 14.8V absorption for a PSOC type use. If your "sealed" battery can also be charged at 14.8V then the charger can charge both. If the float voltage requirements are also the same, or very similar, then one charger can feed to different battery types without any issue.
VOLTAGE, VOLTAGE, VOLTAGE is the key
not the
words.
While your "smart charger" has outputs for "three banks" it is still ONE CHARGER with one single voltage proile used at a time. You can't for example put a GEL battery that needs 14.1V on output #2 and a Trojan that needs 14.8V on output #1 and then set the charger to 14.8V because you will destroy the GEL battery.
Here is a prime example of IGNORE THE WORDS and focus on the VOLTAGES
(http://www.pbase.com/image/164007115.jpg)
Here are some manufacturer suggested charging voltages:
AGM's - Which "AGM" Preset works?:Lifeline AGM's = 14.4V & 13.4V = AGM Preset #1
Odyssey TPPL AGM's = 14.7V & 13.6V = Neither AGM Preset
Firefly AGM =14.4V & 13.2V = Neither AGM Preset
Mastervolt AGM = 14.4V & 13.2V = Neither AGM Preset
Full River AGM = 14.7V & 13.7V = Neither AGM Preset
Rolls AGM = 14.7V & 13.7V = Neither AGM Preset
East Penn/Deka = 14.6V & 13.6V = Neither AGM Preset
US Battery AGM = 14.4V & 13.4V = AGM Preset #1
Trojan AGM = 14.4V & 13.5V = Neither AGM Preset
This is why we should always buy chargers that have a
custom setting. Please do not focus not on the
words but on the voltages.
How about Trojan Flooded batteries? Which Flooded preset works for Trojan flooded batteries??
Trojan Flooded = 14.8V & 13.5V = Neither are
ideal. So you use
custom and set it at 14.8V and 13.5V
How about Deka / East Penn Flooded
Deka Floded = 14.7V & 13.8V = Neither are
ideal. So you use
custom and set it at 14.7V and 13.8V
* I know with the new ProMariner CEC (Kalifornia) compliant chargers they changed the profiles. Still it is the voltages that matter NOT the words...
I was reserving comment on the start battery until I had an idea of your charging system and your start battery. It's surprising how the same words are used for different things. Example - maintenance free lead acid sealed battery, absorbed glass mat (agm) sealed battery. Both get referred to as sealed, but they have different charging requirements. That's why I referred to the battery mfr data sheets for the model number. In this case Trojan for the T105 and T125. What does the data sheet from your start battery mfr require? I think that is mainesail's point.
The title of this post says 1230. If so why choose the 1230P instead of the 1240P or a 1250P since you have a house bank with 4 x T125.
Quote from: mainesail on September 02, 2016, 06:50:13 AM
I know I have likely beat this horse to death but the battery type is pretty irrelevant. What is relevant is the batteries recomended absorption and float voltage.
So RC - Let me get this straight. What you're saying is ignore any battery voltage requirements and charger voltage outputs -- just set up for whatever battery "type" it is? LOL!!!!!!! :rolling :rolling :rolling
Is there ANY charger that you can set two profiles on -- house and reserve?
-Ken
Quote from: KWKloeber on September 02, 2016, 11:13:44 AM
Quote from: mainesail on September 02, 2016, 06:50:13 AM
I know I have likely beat this horse to death but the battery type is pretty irrelevant. What is relevant is the batteries recomended absorption and float voltage.
So RC - Let me get this straight. What you're saying is ignore any battery voltage requirements and charger voltage outputs -- just set up for whatever battery "type" it is? LOL!!!!!!! :rolling :rolling :rolling
Is there ANY charger that you can set two profiles on -- house and reserve?
-Ken
Um no, that is not what I said.... When I said ignore battery "type" I am referring to the often meaningless words on a battery chargers dip switch settings such as GEL, AGM or Flooded. You must know the voltages behind those words and the voltage requirements of your batteries. That is all that matters...
There are very few chargers that actually have two complete chargers in one case, and those that do are usually grossly over priced..
RC,
CH >tongue< EEK. You need a vaka!!
ken
Quote from: KWKloeber on September 02, 2016, 01:50:10 PM
RC,
CH >tongue< EEK. You need a vaka!!
ken
Ah missed that in
type.. Sadly I just got back from a delivery and then cruising... :thumb: Need more I guess... D'oh.....
Was at the boat today. Programmed my charger to the present #1. Checked all the batteries with my volt meter before I turned on the charger. #2 starting batter was fully charged, my trojan house batteries were reading 12.75. Turned on the charger, showed that #2 battery was fully charged, switched my battery switch to #1 battery, the same info. When I put the battery switch on BOTH the charger sensed the need and proceeded to charge the house batteries(4trojans). Not sure why it needed to be on BOTH. Perhaps someone with electrical knowledge(my knowledge is very limited) could give me some insight. Appreciate any comments.
Paul
PS: Eleven years with the non smart charger this was never an issue, perhaps ignorance is bliss. The good news is that my house batteries were depended on the solar panel for 3 months.
Thanks,
Paul
Paul
What was the reserve V reading (you say "fully charged")? How long had they been resting? Any load whatsoever on the house?
I think the most positive way to do it, is to turn off the charger. connect to the batt, then turn on the charger. Strange it did what it did when on "B" but I'm guessing that the Pronautic would probably catch up that the house needed ooomph, given some time -- might just be a lag time.
-ken
Starting battery on my volt meter was 14.8 They have been resting for 5 days. The only think on my starting battery is my temp gauge for my espar heater. The only load on the house battery is the LED battery light on the panel and my bilge pump.
Thanks,
Paul
Thanks for the thought, Ken.
I think that you are onto something. Will try a be more patient with the charger.
Paul
By "showing the battery was fully charged", do you mean the charger didn't respond? How long did you wait before switching from position 2 to 1? When turned on after sitting for a while, mine takes several seconds to start charging.
It took several seconds. Before it went to the house bank, it was finishing up the starting battery. I think that I was a little impatient. Everything is working just fine. I thought the charger would automatically go to the lowest battery bank. Not sure where that thinking came from?? The battery switch has nothing to do with the shore power charger.
Thanks,
Paul
Battery charger operating just fine. Only one question. My house batteries showing 13.45 and my Costco starting battery was at 14.9 Should I be think about a relay for the starting battery and what type do you recommend?
Paul
Paul
What voltage charge profile is your reserve battery looking for?
-kk
Spoke with a technician at ProMariner and he recommended for my setup to go with Sealed preset #1. Cannot answer your question for the starting battery but am working on it.
Paul
Looks like the "technician" at ProMariner knows more about Trojan batteries than Trojan does... D'oh....
Trojan Charging
(http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/image/162600605/large.jpg)
Thanks, Mainsail
I was able to find this but could not find the profile for the interstate starting battery. Costco was no help and did search the internet. No luck so far.
Also, mainesail, last spring you had a pic on the forum showing a unique connector for the negative cables to the engine block. Your article was about something else, it just happened to be on the pic.
Any ideas?
Appreciate your response,
Paul