Catalina 34

hi
i have the black plastic seacock ?marelon and find that it is hard but not impossible to turn the handle to close and open the seacock.   the boat is already in the water and wondered if there was a way to lubricate it at this point.   don't want to twist it so hard that it breaks.   is it better to upgrade these at the end of the season?

thanks

gary w
summer wind
winthrop ma
catalina 34  1986

Gary, You don't need to upgrade them, just put them on your maintenance list!

Which thru hull?

Of course -- you can lube the inboard side of the ball, but to get at both sides you can (take a chilly swim and) block off the thru hull, remove/lube the sea cock.

See the bottom
I've removed/installed my thru hull depth transducer and speed0 many a time while in the water -- actually very little water comes in before I jam the plug in.  If you had a cap or wooden plug or spare valve (lubed) ready go on it, it can be done.

There's exotic ways to block off the thru hull so you can stop 90% of the water.

kk

thanks.
it is the through hull going to the head

gary

Is it a flanged seacock or a ball valve threaded onto a thru hull?

i'm not sure.  is there a way to tell

Gary

If you google it, the forespar site has pictures of both.

gary : You might want to lub the inside of that thru hull with water resistant grease.  That at least might get some lube so you can get thru the season until you can remove the entire thru hull and lube both sides.

I always lubed all thru hulls from the outside each spring (while the boat was on the hard) with a stuff brush.

A thought

Not the best picture of a flanged seacock, but the only one I have. If it is screwed to a backing plate bonded to the hull like in the photo, it is a flanged seacock. If it is only attached to the hull by being threaded onto a white thru hull it could be a gate valve, but is most likely a ball valve. If it has a lever that you rotate 90 degrees to open or close it's a ball valve. If you turn a knob/handle several times (like the hose bib on your house) it's a gate valve. When I purchased the boat, it had Marelon ball valves threaded onto thru hulls. I changed to all Marelon flanged seacocks attached to backing plates on the first haul out for a more robust connection.

it's the flange type.   i'll try putting some lubricant from the inside and see what happens.

thanks

gary

I like to use SuperLube teflon gel.  No well respecting vessel should be wo a tube of that!  Suck out water w a bulb battery filler (or thin turkey baster).

My boat is hauled out right now and I'm having all the through hulls changed to seacocks.   Following the same train of thought as Jon W.  Sturdier and more robust connections, just have to make sure I exercise them on a monthly basis.

Consider this myself next haulout, over a year away, I hope. Are you using Marelon or bronze? How much re-fairing of the hull will be required, or is the outside taper/ fit, countersink, etc. close to what you had? What are you using for backing plates?

I plan on replacing the original marelon thru hulls with marelon seacocks.  I am currently having this done at a local marina, will take some pics next time I am there.  I was at the boat this weekend and 5 thru hulls had been removed and the holes filled.  3 in the head, 2 under the galley.  1 under the galley is going to be  filled in and not be replaced.

In my case the backing plates are round and custom fit epoxy coated marine plywood. The plywood thickness isn't on the invoice but can measure if you want it. The thru hulls are Marelon flush mounted. The flanged seacocks are Marelon. They look good, are sturdier when opening and closing, and take up less room.

Ed, why "removed and holes filled"?  Aren't you using the same "holes"?

Quote from: Ekutney on June 08, 2016, 12:46:14 AM1 under the galley is going to be  filled in and not be replaced.

Have you considered using it for sea water intake to a hand pump at the galley?

I often wished I had that extra thru hull.

Other thoughts are under the galley would be a good location for a water maker intake or water washdown pump.

YES, removed and filled but am using the same holes per the guy doing the work he faired a relatively lager area.