Hi all, I am installing a dedicated starter battery using the approach that many have suggested. This diagram by mainsail depicts the basic layout of what I am trying to accomplish.
(http://c34.org/bbs/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=6604.0;attach=2990;image)
I chose this because I'd like to isolate electronics from engine starting transients.
I have several questions about the best location for components that would give me as little wire routing difficulties as possible.
My current setup is 2ea 4D Grp 27 600CCA batteries wired as separate banks and parallel when the Perko 1-2-B is set to "Both". They are located under the starboard settee in two battery boxes. My alternator is the factory 55Amp Motorola. My charger is a Newmar ABC 12-15. I've installed the start battery in the aft cabin under the forward storage compartment just aft of the prop shaft.
From my reading, I will need to...
1) Move the starter cable from the "C" post to #2 post on the Perko 1-2-B switch.
2) Install and ACR, combiner, or Echo Charger from the bank #1 to the start battery.
3) Connect the starter battery ground cable to the engine block.
4) Install a on/off switch between the starter battery positive cable and the starter.
5) Wire the 2 4D house bank batteries in parallel.
My questions are...
1) Which is easier to install, the Echo Charger or ACR? From what I read, they both work but the ACR requires a much heavier cable which may make cable routing difficult. I'm not worried about cost since the are probably only a few $$ difference.
2) Given my location of my starting and house banks, where would be the optimum location to install the ACR or Echo Charger?
3) Where would be the best location to install the starting battery on/off switch? I'm trying to avoid an unsightly or obstructive installation but still be easily accessible.
Thanks
Mark
I went with the Blue Seas ACR, mainly from the BS reputation. They earned it, replaced mine when it failed after about a year, no questions. I had enough room to put the ACR in the main battery box. My Start battery is also under the aft berth, I added the on/off switch on the stbd engine compartment wall in the aft cabin walk in. It is just forward of the bunk. Easy to access, mostly out of sight.
I used a combiner, from WM but made by Yandina. The Yandina company is still in business and actually warrants its units lifetime. I did this in 1999, before they invented ACRs. It's a simple relay. All will work. The reserve/start bank rarely needs much juice even after starting the engine, so battery acceptance will control the charging.
Note that the diagram has the house bank as #1. Not a bad idea.
Put the VSR out of the engine space. The cubby behind the seatback at the nav station is close to the switch.
Check Noah's posts about switch locations.
Quote from: Stu Jackson on January 25, 2016, 07:18:02 PM
I
Check Noah's posts about switch locations.
Stu:
Couldn't find Noah switch location but I was thinking of putting the battery on/off switch under the head sink, below the RACOR.
This is kind of close to a diesel source, not sure if that violates any rules. The thing I like about this location is that it's close to the raw water thru-hull. When you open/close the thru-hull, you turn on/off the switch.
Mark,
Probably not a good idea, since that's where you're going to end up putting your external regulator when you get around to it. :D
Better would be in the aft cabin.
HEY NOAH
Can you point Mark to your photos?
Having some trouble loading .jpegs they are being rejected due to some odd iPhone graphic BS formatting issues. Hopefully, this link will get you to my pics
http://c34.org/bbs/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3044.0;attach=4691
My switches are in the same general location seems as Ken Juul has his...aft cabin on engine box bulkhead next to door. I have my engine start switch as well as my emergency battery combiner switch there.
My Xantrex Duo-charge is inside the same conpartment as my water heater. I wanted to keep it out of the battery box due to possible fumes from my T-105 flooded batteries. Jon, I believe, plans on putting his Xantrex Duo under the starboard settee which is another good spot. Unfortunately that compartment for me is a "NO METAL" zone because that's where I have my autopilot rate compass mounted.
Quote from: Stu Jackson on January 25, 2016, 10:26:04 PM
Mark,
Probably not a good idea, since that's where you're going to end up putting your external regulator when you get around to it. :D
Better would be in the aft cabin.
I was thinking the ACR would go in bank #1 location under starboard settee like Ken did and snake a new wire up to start battery. I think there's room there. Then I would have both the switch and ACR stowed and one location to open thru-hull and turn on starter battery.
Is there some reason not to put it behind the electrical panel connected directly to the 1-2-B switch? Seems like an easy location- no wires to snake. The ACR shouldn't generate much heat.
It is not that hard to snake the wires. Rent a conduit snake or make your own from straighted wire coat hangers. For the best possible results, alternator/battery charger output should go directly to the house bank not through the 12B switch. Then from the house bank, ACR/Duo Charge to the start battery.
The best snake I stumbled across while running wires on my C30 was a ten foot piece of 3/8" PEX. Non-conductive and you can either straighten it or introduce a bit of a bend. If you're running small gauge wire, you can push that up through the PEX, then remove the PEX leaving the wire in place. It would probably make decent conduit as well.
Craig
Hi Mark,
I can't open the diagram in your original post. Where did you find it, or can you attach to your post again? Thanks. Jon W.
Quote from: Jon W on January 26, 2016, 09:59:42 AM
Hi Mark,
I can't open the diagram in your original post. Where did you find it, or can you attach to your post again? Thanks. Jon W.
Jon;
The diagram is from mainsail. It's located on this board so not sure why you can't see it. Here is another link...
http://c34.org/bbs/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=6604.0;attach=2989
----------------------------------------------------------
The Blue Sea SI ACR has an LED that shows it's functioning. I can probably fit it in under the head sink where it would be easier to see (or run the remote LED someplace visible like the engine panel). There is also a voltage spike sensing connection on the SI ACR that needs to connect to the ignition switch. Seems like that wire would be much easier to run from under the head sink. Another advantage to having the start battery switch and SI ACR is close proximity is I can run a very short jumper from the SI ACR 13.7 volt output to the terminal on the switch.
Quote from: Jon W on January 26, 2016, 09:59:42 AM
Hi Mark,
I can't open the diagram in your original post. Where did you find it, or can you attach to your post again? Thanks. Jon W.
It's here, in the Electrical Systems 101 topic:
Basic Battery Wiring Diagrams This is a very good basic primer for boat system wiring: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6604.0.html (http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,6604.0.html)
Please note the discussion of the battery sense wire, especially if you have an external regulator.
There is also this about that wiring diagram:
PLEASE NOTE for Option 2:
The wire from the 2 post of the 1-2-B switch is shown going to the starter; it can also just as easily be run to the lower post of the on/off switch, which is just the other end of the same wire. The switches are usually closer to each other, resulting in less wiring.
Quote from: mark_53 on January 26, 2016, 10:34:35 AM
http://c34.org/bbs/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=6604.0;attach=2989
----------------------------------------------------------
The Blue Sea SI ACR has an LED that shows it's functioning. I can probably fit it in under the head sink where it would be easier to see (or run the remote LED someplace visible like the engine panel). There is also a voltage spike sensing connection on the SI ACR that needs to connect to the ignition switch. Seems like that wire would be much easier to run from under the head sink. Another advantage to having the start battery switch and SI ACR is close proximity is I can run a very short jumper from the SI ACR 13.7 volt output to the terminal on the switch.
Mark,
I hear you and I understand. However, please consider my earlier point about a location for an external regulator, which you MAY come to when you upgrade your alternator. If you never plan to do that, ignore the rest of this. :D
Given the length of the wiring harnesses that come with regulators, that location is just perfect for the regulator, which, too,
needs a visual check. The only other place I've seen folks locate them is in the aft cabin. Requires drilling holes for the wiring harness, which is in a black flex conduit, plus the "owner provided" wires needed.
You really don't need to "see" the ACR light, all you have to do is check the second bank battery voltage when you're charging. I can say this with true conviction, since I located the "idiot light" for my combiner behind the sliding black cover just forward of the galley. That was 17 years ago, and I find absolutely NO need to ever check the light. I have a dual battery analog voltmeter PLUS a Link 2000 to check voltages. I find seeing the regulator far more important.
I plan to locate the external regulator under the head sink. Above and to the left of the Racor near the door there is a good spot, but there are two #10 or #12 screws about 1 inch long. They aren't attached to anything, and don't appear to be installed in any real pattern.
Anyone know if they are attaching the cabinet corner to the bulkhead or just left from something long gone and serve no purpose anymore?
Thanks. Jon W.
Quote from: Stu Jackson on January 26, 2016, 11:23:58 AM
There is also this about that wiring diagram:
PLEASE NOTE for Option 2: The wire from the 2 post of the 1-2-B switch is shown going to the starter; it can also just as easily be run to the lower post of the on/off switch, which is just the other end of the same wire. The switches are usually closer to each other, resulting in less wiring.
Yes, connecting the wire from the 2 post to the "lower" post (I don't think it matters which side) is a possibility but, on our c34s, that wire is already connected to the starter. Probably easier to leave it there.
Quote from: Stu Jackson on January 26, 2016, 11:32:01 AM
Mark,
I hear you and I understand. However, please consider my earlier point about a location for an external regulator, which you MAY come to when you upgrade your alternator. If you never plan to do that, ignore the rest of this. :D
At this time I don't plan on upgrading the alternator. Most of my "cruising" is limited to one or two nights on the hook and then to a marina for nice warm heat and shopping for my first mate.
Quote from: Stu Jackson on January 26, 2016, 11:32:01 AM
Given the length of the wiring harnesses that come with regulators, that location is just perfect for the regulator, which, too, needs a visual check. The only other place I've seen folks locate them is in the aft cabin. Requires drilling holes for the wiring harness, which is in a black flex conduit, plus the "owner provided" wires needed.
If and when I do upgrade the alternator, the voltage regulators I've seen look quite small. It looks like there is still room under the head sink to install it even with the battery switch and SI ACR located there.
Quote from: Stu Jackson on January 26, 2016, 11:32:01 AM
You really don't need to "see" the ACR light, all you have to do is check the second bank battery voltage when you're charging. I can say this with true conviction, since I located the "idiot light" for my combiner behind the sliding black cover just forward of the galley. That was 17 years ago, and I find absolutely NO need to ever check the light. I have a dual battery analog voltmeter PLUS a Link 2000 to check voltages. I find seeing the regulator far more important.
Stu, In my case, I don't have a link 2000 or dual battery volt meter so an LED for the SI ACR would provide me some comfort in knowing the start battery is receiving it's charge. I have the stock volt meter on the engine panel and one on the DP. Maybe time to upgrade to a decent battery voltage monitor, but for now, I was thinking of using the volt meter on the engine panel to monitor the start battery voltage and use the volt meter on the DP to monitor the house bank. With a dedicated start battery, and for my style of "cruising", precisely monitoring house bank capacity is not important. If I run the house bank down, I start up and recharge or head to the marina.
Just have to figure out how to rewire the volt meter on the engine panel to the start battery. Any ideas on that?
Mark : You ask how to use the V meter on the engine panel to monitor the starting battery?
EASY - Simply run a + and a - wire (#16) from the starting battery direct to the meter (after disconnecting the present meter wires !!!!)
OR - You could wire to a left/right ON momentary switch (to be mounted on the engine panel), so that meter could monitor what it does now and also monitor a new starting battery
A few thoughts
When I added my start battery, I removed the wire from the alternator to the starter post. Ran the Alternator output to the house bank instead. Left everything on the 12B switch as is. Wired the start battery through a switch to the starter and ground. When I start the engine I see the voltage drop heating the glow plugs and see the voltage drop when cranking. I can do with with the 12B in off so I know I am monitoring the start battery. If the start battery is getting charged thought the ACR, then I know the house bank is also charging. I do have a Link to monitor the house battery.
I am starting from a very basic wiring configuration (single battery bank, older undersized wiring, older dumb charger) and plan to follow much of the "ideas" documented on this site. I like the idea of relocating the 12B switch as shown in the picture (aft cabin bulkhead). I assume this means I no longer need the 12B switch in the distribution panel. Am I correct?
No the 12B switch is still used. 1 is the house, 2 allows starting the engine with the house battery. The added switch only controls the start battery. My 12B switch is either off or in the 1 postition to power the house. The start battery switch is either off or on.
Quote from: Ken Juul on January 26, 2016, 02:22:48 PM
Left everything on the 12B switch as is.
Ken:
Your schematic shows the starter cable on the 1-2-B switch on the #2 post.
(http://www.c34.org/wiki/images/2/2b/Boat_electrical.gif)
The factory default for the starter cable is on the "C" post. I plan on moving the starter cable on the 1-2-B switch to #2 post as shown is mainsails diagram.
(http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/image/155636682.jpg)
For customers with this set up I simply leave a copy of all the scenarios of switch use on-board. This is what it looks like.. If you use an ACR replace the words Echo Charger with ACR,
NORMAL EVERYDAY USE:
ISOLATED START & HOUSE
Note: Alternator charges HOUSE and Echo Charger charges START.
1/2/ALL = #1
ON/OFF = ON
EMERGENCY SCENARIOS:
START & HOUSE PARALLEL
Note: This overrides the Echo Charger & sends more current to START bank.
1/2/ALL = ALL
ON/OFF = ON
Emergency Situ #1 - START - Provides HOUSE & START Loads:
Note: Use if the HOUSE bank was to fail, for whatever reason. This isolates the HOUSE bank & uses the START bank for everything.
ON/OFF = ON
1/2/ALL = #2
Emergency Situ #2 - HOUSE - Provides HOUSE & START Loads:
Note: Use if the START bank was to fail, for whatever reason. This isolates the START bank & uses the HOUSE bank for everything..
ON/OFF = OFF
1/2/ALL = ALL
Quote from: tgsail1 on January 26, 2016, 07:25:03 AM
Is there some reason not to put it behind the electrical panel connected directly to the 1-2-B switch? Seems like an easy location- no wires to snake. The ACR shouldn't generate much heat.
This sounds like a good location.
Advantages:
-Very short jumpers to ACR from house battery and start battery cables
-Uses existing #4 cables,
-Out of sight
-Can run the ACR activity LED to main DC panel.
Disadvantage(s)
The cable run to house and start batteries is a few feet longer than a direct run from house under galley to start battery.
The sensing lead from the ACR to ignition switch may be difficult to route.
But just way to many wires in there to fit it and the cables.
Another option as Stu suggested is the cuby just in front of the port settee seat back.
The text that Maine Sail provided is already included in the link in Electrical Systems 101:
This is another very good basic primer for boat system wiring: The 1-2-B Switch by Maine Sail (brings together a lot of what this subject is all about)
http://forums.catalina.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=137615 (http://forums.catalina.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=137615)
A shortened version/explanation is included in the earlier 101 link.
Quote from: mark_53 on January 27, 2016, 11:39:52 AM
Quote from: tgsail1 on January 26, 2016, 07:25:03 AM
Is there some reason not to put it behind the electrical panel connected directly to the 1-2-B switch? Seems like an easy location- no wires to snake. The ACR shouldn't generate much heat.
This sounds like a good location.
Advantages:
-Very short jumpers to ACR from house battery and start battery cables
-Uses existing #4 cables,
-Out of sight
-Can run the ACR activity LED to main DC panel.
Disadvantage(s)
The cable run to house and start batteries is a few feet longer than a direct run from house under galley to start battery.
The sensing lead from the ACR to ignition switch may be difficult to route.
If the alternator & other charge sources are properly wired to the house bank then the ACR is passing a few amps or less across it. The proper installation of an ACR, with disparate sized banks, is to the larger house bank first then the ACR charges start.
The SI wire is not really a sensing wire it disables or opens the ACR the second you hit the start button.
Wiring a dedicated start battery is a fine approach but it does not eliminate the potential for transients. The best thing you can do is to properly wire the boat so all loads come off the batteries as close to the batteries as possible. This is one reason I prefer battery switches closer to the bank, as does the ABYC...
I put this together a short time ago..
Voltage Transients In Marine Battery Systems (VIDEO LINK) (https://youtu.be/cCYZJlHqrVA)
Thanks for the correction Mark. Mine is wired per the diagram. Been a few years since I did it.....the mind is a terrible thing to lose :?
Quote from: Ekutney on January 27, 2016, 06:08:58 AM
I am starting from a very basic wiring configuration (single battery bank, older undersized wiring, older dumb charger) and plan to follow much of the "ideas" documented on this site. I like the idea of relocating the 12B switch as shown in the picture (aft cabin bulkhead). I assume this means I no longer need the 12B switch in the distribution panel. Am I correct?
I should have included the picture and worded my question differently.
Do you still have a 12B switch in the power distribution panel or was it moved to the aft cabin as shown in the picture?
Redundant but thought it appropriate to add:
I agree 100% that reviewing the 101 link to this subject has all the information required, much of it from Main Sail the SME on the subject. I especially reference the detailed explanation on the 12B switch:
Quote from: Stu Jackson on January 27, 2016, 11:42:49 AM
The text that Maine Sail provided is already included in the link in Electrical Systems 101:
This is another very good basic primer for boat system wiring: The 1-2-B Switch by Maine Sail (brings together a lot of what this subject is all about)
http://forums.catalina.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=137615 (http://forums.catalina.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=137615)
A shortened version/explanation is included in the earlier 101 link.
I struggled over why the placement of the 12B switch but it seems at the time my boat was built (30 years ago it made sense.
I have spent hours reviewing the vast amount of information on this site on a wide variety of subjects, I feel like I am in a library of C34 knowledge. Thanks again to those that contribute, your efforts are appreciated.
I left the 12B switch on the panel.
Quote from: mainesail on January 27, 2016, 11:53:26 AMThis is one reason I prefer battery switches closer to the bank, as does the ABYC...
This is very good advice.
IF I was completely rebuilding the entire electrical system, I might, just might, consider it.
OTOH, what I suggest you do, before you move the 1-2-B switch from the panel, is to consider the DIFFERENCES in the lengths of the load feeders between that OEM location and ANY OTHER you might find.
Since we've had almost
30 years of experience with our boats, and there are
only so many places we have learned that things will actually FIT on our boats, the six feet of wire (three across, three up) from the battery compartment to the OEM switch location is not really that long, and I'd be willing to bet that any other location for the switch, EXCEPT for
right on the wall of the battery compartment, would not decrease that length all that much. And besides, even if you moved the switch to that location, you are still faced with running the wires FROM the switch TO the distribution panel and the starter, right?
The ONLY way I can see to follow the guidance offered by Maine Sail,
on a Catalina 34, is to move the distribution panel closer to the battery box. That simply ain't gonna happen.
Please understand, we've BTDT. The whole purpose of this entire website is to avoid having skippers reinvent the wheel.
We've provided three or four different ways to switch the main wiring from battery banks to the starter and distribution panel. We've shown and recorded, from various skippers, any number of different places to place more batteries in addition to the OEM central battery compartment in front of the galley sink.
If you can find some more, we're all ears! :clap :clap :clap
I'd place first your efforts right now on an understanding of the concepts between the different switching possibilities, sizing the wiring (as Jon has been doing), finding the right switch location(s) that suit your understanding (like Noah did), and
designing your system, before you do anything physical on the boat.
Good luck, we're here to help.
Stu,
Unfortunately there is not much we can often do about the poor battery switch location chosen by Catalina. In terms of voltage transients the closer the take off point for the DC loads to the physical battery bank the less risk we have of seeing damaging transients. Sadly boats are a compromise and we do the best we can. Lots of builders, inclduing Catalina, Ericson & others used the DC panel for switches and this very often results in more wire than is necessary and more risk of chafe and shorting. Part of the reason for my 1/2/BOTH write up is to help owners with situations like this. It is often quoted as "Maine Sail's preferred method" but really its not its just "a method" to work with what we have. Unfortunately we do not always have the luxury of starting from scratch.
With the switch halfway between the starter and bank the risk increases but damaging spikes are still rare if the boat is wired well otherwise..
That said the biggest occurrence I see of electronics blown via transients is though lightning or when an owner passes a battery switch through OFF with the motor running. Sometimes it is just the diodes that go but the alt path is still directly connected to the loads path at the "C" post and despite not being connected to the battery the loads are still connected to an open circuited and spiking alternator.
When this happens the voltage transient can take out electronics too not just the alt diodes. An owner may have started his bank 1000 times via the 1/2/BOTH and never blown electronics but the minute he/she passes through OFF, and the alt takes out electronics, the transient is almost always blamed on the starter motor, instead of the most likely cause, which is open circuiting an operational alternator..
No one in the industry really talks about this but I surmise it is the probably the number 1 killer of instruments in terms of on-board caused voltage transients. We can avoid this type of transient quite easily by direct wiring the alternator to the house bank..
http://c34.org/bbs/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3044.0;attach=4689;o
http://c34.org/bbs/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=8790.0;attach=5486;image
The three switches shown include my on/off switch for my house bank. The two switches shown in the aft cabin are my start battery on/of switch. The second one is my emergency combiner switch to hook both banks together if I need to. That switch has a removable key handle I keep it in the chart table until I ever need it. Stops people from accidentallyflipping it!
The third switch in the main saloon on the outside of the battery box/settee is the on/off for my house bank. I only have breakers and meters/ monitors on my main
Quote from: mainesail on January 27, 2016, 11:53:26 AM
The SI wire is not really a sensing wire it disables or opens the ACR the second you hit the start button.
I'm trying to locate where to hookup the SI wire. I need to connect the SI sensor to a 12V circuit that is activated when the start button is pressed. My start button has black wires coming out out both terminals on the backside. Does this mean the switch is from the negative side? Maybe the is a more convenient place to attach the SI wire on the starter solenoid?
Noah's approach of using a separate On/Off switch for each battery (each right near their battery) and a simple On/Off switch for emergency-combining results in a much simpler/cleaner system in the end. It avoids potential confusion in an emergency related to the more complicated topology of repurposing the 1-2-both factory switch and provides for nice short wire runs, with key loads being connected close to the battery as MaineSail recommends for reliable operation of your electronics at all times.
The drawback is that it requires more upfront re-wiring to get rid of the factory 1-2-both switch at the panel.
The benefit of the rewire work, though, is that you can use proper heavy-gauge marine wire where needed and create shorter runs that don't have to snake their way to the main panel and back. When done properly you end up with a system that is robust, flexible, and much simpler to understand. Simplicity can save your ass when you are stuck somewhere, frustrated, cold and wet, and are can't find the damn diagram that says which switch positions to use to get your radio working from your reserve/start battery while keeping your shorted/dead big house bank from draining that critical but smaller reserve battery.
Separately, after looking carefully at the ACR vs EchoCombiner trade-offs, I now favor the EchoCharger, particularly for C34's where you likely need to charge a single reserve/start battery (often AGM) and have a larger flooded house bank. For example, your shore power charger may be set to occasionally do an "equalize" cycle on the house bank, something you would not want to subject the reserve battery to. There are other reasons as well, and although the BlueSea ACR is a great product, in the end I think the trade-offs favor the EchoCharge for this application.
Quote from: J_Sail on February 13, 2016, 10:19:21 AM
Noah's approach of using a separate On/Off switch for each battery (each right near their battery) and a simple On/Off switch for emergency-combining results in a much simpler/cleaner system in the end. It avoids potential confusion in an emergency related to the more complicated topology of repurposing the 1-2-both factory switch and provides for nice short wire runs, with key loads being connected close to the battery as MaineSail recommends for reliable operation of your electronics at all times.
The drawback is that it requires more upfront re-wiring to get rid of the factory 1-2-both switch at the panel.
The benefit of the rewire work, though, is that you can use proper heavy-gauge marine wire where needed and create shorter runs that don't have to snake their way to the main panel and back. When done properly you end up with a system that is robust, flexible, and much simpler to understand. Simplicity can save your ass when you are stuck somewhere, frustrated, cold and wet, and are can't find the damn diagram that says which switch positions to use to get your radio working from your reserve/start battery while keeping your shorted/dead big house bank from draining that critical but smaller reserve battery.
Separately, after looking carefully at the ACR vs EchoCombiner trade-offs, I now favor the EchoCharger, particularly for C34's where you likely need to charge a single reserve/start battery (often AGM) and have a larger flooded house bank. For example, your shore power charger may be set to occasionally do an "equalize" cycle on the house bank, something you would not want to subject the reserve battery to. There are other reasons as well, and although the BlueSea ACR is a great product, in the end I think the trade-offs favor the EchoCharge for this application.
I'd have agree with you that separate on/off switches would be more robust and simpler to operate, but that seems like much more rework then
re-purposing the 1-2-B switch.
As far as the EchoCharger vs ACR, using mixed battery types was not an issue to me since a FLA battery was low cost and suited my purpose, which was an isolated dedicated start/reserve battery. The ACR could also fit in the house battery box. The EchCharger seemed larger and I was looking for a concealed solution.
I thought I would follow-up and post the final configuration of my start battery upgrade. The schematic may be useful for those who want a dedicated isolated start battery to protect their sensitive electronics but chose not to upgrade to a high output alternator at this time. Below is a simplified schematic of the system wiring. The LED on the engine panel indicates ACR is functioning properly before I lose charge. Also as an indicator if I left the start battery switch on and closed the thru hull before leaving the boat.
Locations I chose for the system components are listed below.
ACR - Aft wall of existing Battery Box
Start Battery on/off switch - starboard wall under head sink
Start Battery - In new battery box mounted behind prop shaft in aft cabin.
House Batteries - In existing battery box
1-2-Both Switch - In existing location on DC Panel.
Battery Charger - In existing location under Nav Table
(//)
Thanks to all who helped with their comments.