Furling the Jib in on Eximius is a pain!
It seems to take a huge effort (and I've been working out) and I'm not sure why, it's a comparatively new furler.
The furling line runs from the drum, down the port side through a some blocks on stanchions aft past the port winch to a block on the lower end of the pushpit tubing, then past it's cleat and to the winch drum.
The last block (on the pushpit) seems to have no purpose other than redirect the line towards the winch, and it does that at a bad angle, I fight overrides every time.
I wondered if I moved that black to the stanchion just forward of the winch if it would reduce the friction?
Not sure if the line routing is typical or the best.
Any ideas?
Thanks.
Paul
Hi,
It seams to have a trouble yes.
You should not need the winch to furl your sail.
If you leave some line loose in the cockpit and go by the furler and try to pull the line back. It should go without restriction, if it does, then you have issue thru you blocks.
If not, your line might by to big, and getting to big in the furler drum as it accumulate, causing your trouble.
Is it hard to pull at any lenght, or just the last section
Don't know what brand furler you have, I agree there is some issue. I do not need any "winching" with my (ProFurl), to furl sail. Guessing something is wrong with furler system. I would start by trying to isolate the source. Is your furler system spinning freely if you bypass all blocks and pull line straight at the drum? If yes, then you know it is not leads/blocks/friction going aft--and could be the top masthead swivel, deck drum swivel, or way the line is wrapped on the drum....
You didn't mention a block on the aft support post of the pulpit. We have a swivel based block there for the first fairlead from the drum, which MUST on almost all furlers I've heard of, be at 90 degrees from the drum.
Ours go outside the stanchion bases on Johnson bullet fairleads, and then to a turning block just like yours. We have a ProFurl LCI32, and never use the winch.
I'm heading to the boat in the morning, will take pics and try the suggestions.
Paul
Paul,
like this:
Lots depends on how high your drum is off the deck. You may need to play around with locations.
Quote from: Stu Jackson on December 14, 2015, 10:17:24 AM
You didn't mention a block on the aft support post of the pulpit. We have a swivel based block there for the first fairlead from the drum, which MUST on almost all furlers I've heard of, be at 90 degrees from the drum.
Ours go outside the stanchion bases on Johnson bullet fairleads, and then to a turning block just like yours. We have a ProFurl LCI32, and never use the winch.
Perpendicular to the drum axis?
Paul
Quote from: britinusa on December 14, 2015, 01:37:44 PM
Perpendicular to the drum axis?
Yup, 90 degrees = perpendicular (to the forestay and the drum's side)
I didn't take a pic yet, but the block on the aft pushpit is hard up against the mid rail.
ie. the line heads down to the winch, thus I get overrides unless I run the line beneath the cleat on the aft outside of the coaming.
I'm heading down the boat tomorrow and will take those pics.
(as well as lubricate with 1 touch all the blocks from the furler to the aft block.)
Paul
Paul : There is no need to have the jib furling line go all the way aft. Most C34 owners have the last guide block on the double footed stanchion.
I had some Garhauer stanchion blocks that kept the furling line outside the stanchions.
Then from that last stanchion block the line should go to the cleat on the side combing. If you ever want to place it on the primary winch the line will be coming from the deck - with no override.
A few thoughts
Paul,
If you look at the picture near the drum, I have a block immediately after. Then another block on the angled section of the bow pulpit. After that, the line runs through a series of blocks on every stanchion. The last block is on the double stanchion. From the double stanchion, I ran the line back to the aft pulpit to a ratchet block. I rarely ever use a winch on the furling line (maybe once in 15 years). The ratchet block holds the line while I reef in the Genoa. I only trigger the ratchet switch in high winds. Usually I set it with no ratchet.
Need to read Noah's response. Both the drum and the swivel head need to be washed out. Just use a hose and keep spinning each. PS: need to take the sail off. If the halyard is over top of the stay or the head of the furling system is to close to the top, this will require a winch. This is from personal experience.
Paul
Quote from: Stu Jackson on December 14, 2015, 10:17:24 AM
Ours go outside the stanchion bases on Johnson bullet fairleads, and then to a turning block just like yours.
Just occurred to me that if you have outside tracks going outside the stanchion bases may not be possible due to the jib sheet fairleads. We don't have an outside track.
Stu, looking at your pic of the aft pushpit, your block(rachet) is near the bottom of the tube, ours is much higher! That's most likely the cause of the override on the winch.
Took longer than planned to install the AIS today (wire running issues) so I didn't get to take pics.
Going out Christmas Day (Tomorrow) and should be able to get pics taken then
Paul
Paul, I believe your focus is misdirected. If things are working correctly at the drum and the subsequent lead "downstream", your need for the winch will/should be eliminated. It should take mininal effort to active the furler line.
Quote from: Roc on December 24, 2015, 04:13:12 AM
Paul,
If you look at the picture near the drum, I have a block immediately after. Then another block on the angled section of the bow pulpit. After that, the line runs through a series of blocks on every stanchion. The last block is on the double stanchion. From the double stanchion, I ran the line back to the aft pulpit to a ratchet block. I rarely ever use a winch on the furling line (maybe once in 15 years). The ratchet block holds the line while I reef in the Genoa. I only trigger the ratchet switch in high winds. Usually I set it with no ratchet.
The line makes a negative angle at the first block and is clearly running against the clevis instead of the sheave. something needs realigning or a stanchion block instead of the standing swivel block.
kk
Quote from: Noah on December 24, 2015, 05:59:50 PM
Paul, I believe your focus is misdirected. If things are working correctly at the drum and the subsequent lead "downstream", your need for the winch will/should be eliminated. It should take mininal effort to active the furler line.
isolate the issue, run the drum with the line just behind the forestay - if there's friction service the drum.
kk
Step 1. I relocated the aft most block forwards to the next stanchion and on the inside.
It now has a much fairer lead to both the winch and to the cleat.
But didn't get to put the sails up this weekend :)
Paul
Paul- my drum is located very high off the deck (there are pluses and minuses to this, but that's a subject for another thread). Consequently, my first lead block is located high on the pushpit to maintain the proper 90 degree drum feed angle. The remaining leads are at the base of each stanchion going aft to a cleat on the outside of the cockpit combining, just aft of the starboard winch. BUT I DO NOT USE THE WINCH -- AND IMO YOU SHOULDN'T NEED T) EITHER.
I have a witness that it all works well, too!
My furling line runs outside of the stanchions, shouldn't make that much difference.
BTW Shiny Boat Noah!
paul
Thanks. Just some wax and a lot of elbow grease!
You need to isolate the problem. Is it an issue with the line or an issue with the furler. If the furler drum and upper swivel don't move freely suggest cleaning with a healthy dose of WD40 as you spin the drum and swivel followed by a though dousing of fresh water. Of course the sail must be removed to clean the upper swivel.
Thanks Ken, sounds like a good suggestion.
paul
Rather than WD-40, I would flush it with a high spray of water first. Then put a dry lubricant, like McLube Sailkote. I see they have a new product called OneDrop (never tried it). You don't want to put something on the bearings which would attract dirt.
http://www.mclubemarine.com/
Also check your furler manual. Some have built in cleaning ports. Other is just spray as best you can.
Some bearings if not stainless steel are affected by the chemicals in these lubricants. A good water dousing works the best. Roc's post is an interesting product. Worth checking out. Sailkote works great on sail tracks.
Paulus
Quote from: Ken Juul on December 31, 2015, 05:51:56 AM
Also check your furler manual. Some have built in cleaning ports. Other is just spray as best you can.
And some, like our ProFurl, say NEVER get any lubricants anywhere near the swivel or drum.
RTFM :D :D :D
1st sail of 2016 and the furler worked great.
Seems that moving the aft most block forwards to the next stantion did the trick. I was able to furl the jib single handed without using the jib.
WoHooo!
paul