Hi,
I know that the subject has been talked a few time here.
But I repacked mine this week-end.
What a nightmare ......
The thing was all oxydized. All jamed in place.
The stuffing box is so well located to work on. I'm 6ft and 260lbs, try to get a good position to work in there..... good luck.
But with a LOT of PBBlaster, and nice words, and lot of patience and time, I got the nuts loose.
Then try to get the old flux out, more fun and time ...... but made it.
Now, I had read the the flux should be 3/16, 3 rows of it, which I did put in. Hand tighten only.
But the one I removed was 2 rows of 1/4.
Did lots of you had this situation ?? Still on the hard, so can change if required.
Thanks.
Patrice : When I first changed mine (1990?) I found that the factory spiraled mine in about 2 1/2 turns!!
You are correct in using 3 rings of 3/16" packing. You might want to have noted the depth of the no packing, so as you continue to turn the gland nut as it wears - you know how much is still left
Hope you used Gore dripless packing and some water resistant grease on the gland and lock nuts!!
Patrice,
Once you have (finally) worked on your stuffing box, you will realize that it is something, like chainplates, that are part of ROUTINE MAINTENANCE.
They only get gunked up from lack of use. In the stuffing box article I wrote in the wiki, I recommended use of Lanocote and/or lanolin to keep the threads clean and the nuts clear.
If the gland is neglected, it will do just what you said.
Our boats are literally blessed with probably the best access to the box in the entire boating industry.
Use it or lose it.
Patrice,
I'm right there with you brother! I just did mine a few weeks ago while she was on the hard getting painted. The oxidation was stupid. It took me 3 hours of polishing just to get the stuffing box to slide up the shaft!! I'm 5'-10" 260 and I'm still sore!!
Knocking myself in the head for letting it go this long..
Here's a few pictures:
http://public.fotki.com/Sailorick/sv_painkiller/stuffing-box/ (http://public.fotki.com/Sailorick/sv_painkiller/stuffing-box/)
And even a fun little timelapse I call "The Hunchback of Alameda"..
https://youtu.be/KYxtchlfTNE (https://youtu.be/KYxtchlfTNE)
Hi
I did mine too . Changed the 2 rows of 1/4 inch with initially only 2 rows of 3/16 flax . Then went into the water and felt like the box was warm when I ran the engine. So then I added a 3rd row of 3/16 while it was in the water which wasn't as hard as I thought it would be, not too much water coming in, but still feel it is on the warm side and having trouble adjusting it to a few drops per minute.
Will try adjusting the nut again but may end up taking the flax out again and retrying the the gore layer in the middle which is what I should have done I guess in the first place.
A little concerned about the warmth
Gary W
Catalina 34 1986
Summer Wind
Boston Ma
Has anyone with a "saltwater boat" and bronze prop shaft had any concerns or experienced any corrosion issues using graphite impregnated flax, such as GTU, Gore GFO "dripless, or Ultrex? Mainesail cautions against it.
I've been using the Gore for 10+ years. No issues. Boat is primarily in brackish water. Salty ocean water may make a difference.
Quote from: Noah on May 14, 2015, 07:26:03 AM
Has anyone with a "saltwater boat" and bronze prop shaft had any concerns or experienced any corrosion issues using graphite impregnated flax, such as GTU, Gore GFO "dripless, or Ultrex? Mainesail cautions against it.
None. I used the green goop for many years, Ultrex for the past four or so, per my stuffing box article in the wiki.