According to West Marine, Seward no longer makes the 6 gal water heater with the engine connections on the back. The only brand they could find was a Kuuma. Pretty much a slid in replacement, except the engine hose connections are a couple inches closer together and interfere with the water pump shelf. I didn't bring that kind of saw with me on this trip, so I ended up loosing the shelf and trash can on the water heater door until I get home in the spring and can do some trimming. Not a big deal, but thought I would mention it to help someone else in the future.
Ken,
I've read a few unfavorable comments about the Kuumas. They look alike, but they're not made with the same "guts," although I'm sure they'll work just fine, perhaps with somewhat reduced longevity (who knows, would be great to keep track and report back in 10 years - we can compare!). :D
My recent (August 2013) experience is that they are still made, and I found a Google search for best pricing for $236 + s/h from SureMarine in Seattle to be the best price for a brand new SEAWARD heater with back connections. John Nixon has my write up about the installation waiting for a new Tech Notes in Mainsheet. I had to trim some of my wood shelf, too. WM is wrong, at least as of last August. :shock: :?
Ken : West Marine is wrong!! as I priced Seaward (by Whale) 6 gal. water heaters a couple of months ago.
I found them in Defender for $259 and also on line for $225. Both had the option of front or back engine water line connections!!
I know that West Marine stores are handy and located near the ICW, but you'd better keep your Defender catalog handy or you'll go broke at WM!
A few thoughts
What about the water heaters available through Catalina Direct (http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm/product/1516_324/water-heater-6-gal-galvbrconnections-front--rear.cfm)?
Our water heat is rusted out, so I'll need to replace it in the spring. The boat is currently covered, so I'm not sure whether I need front or rear connections, but it looks like CD offers both for reasonable prices.
Quote from: kwaltersmi on January 02, 2014, 07:03:19 AM
What about the water heaters available through Catalina Direct (http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm/product/1516_324/water-heater-6-gal-galvbrconnections-front--rear.cfm)?
Our water heat is rusted out, so I'll need to replace it in the spring. The boat is currently covered, so I'm not sure whether I need front or rear connections, but it looks like CD offers both for reasonable prices.
Walt,
That's a Seaward heater, for $268 + s/h. If you'd like to pay less, look around. You could also pay a lot more, as I found out in my own research. Use Google.
Front or rear? Most skippers I've heard of have rear connections, that means the connections are on the starboard side once installed. If you order front connections, you will simply have little to no room to connect the coolant hoses from the engine.
Guys : As Stu pointed out Catalina Direct is PRICEY!!!
My thought also.
I was stuck. Went with WM because it was there. A word of Caution about Defender. I bought a brand new Navionics chart chip from them in October. It did not work. They do not warranty other manufactures stuff. I was directed to Navionics (they live in Italy) and troubleshot for all of November and most of Dec. Navionics finally gave up and directed Defender to send me a new card....which of course I had to pay for. So I got my chart plotter working for Christmas, 2.5 months after I purchased the card. Still waiting on my refund for the bad card. It may cost a bit more, but I would much rather take a bad part back and get it replaced than deal with this again.
Ken : Thanks for the "heads up", but that's why I went with the on line purchase!
Defender is "notorious" for its dropout in service on electronic items. Otherwise, their pricing is very, very good.
Thanks all. Good info! I'll probably purchase from SureMarine and try the install in the early spring. I'm hoping this installation is relatively easy since I haven't researched it a whole lot yet.
Kevin, you'll need to take the teak trim off the opening to get the old heater out and the new heater in (there are screws at the corners under teak bungs); it is a very tight fit but it will make it so long as you order the exact replacement dimensionally. Other than that, it is pretty straight-forward in terms of disconnecting the hoses and AC wiring and reconnecting. For what it is worth, Catalina Direct is recommending replacing the drain valve with a screw-in magnesium anode to help prevent against corrosion:
http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm/product/3029_324/water-heater-magnesium-anode.cfm
Kevin, Clay's right, it's easy. Easy to remove the door frame - the crews go directly into the fiberglass. What is more difficult is to remove the four hold down bolts in the tabs at each end of the heater. I found you need to get, if you don't have one, a VERY long Phillips head screwdriver. Very long. I also found it very helpful to place extender hoses on the coolant connections at the back of the heater with hose barbs 5/8" to 5/8" so it's much easier to conenct the coolant hoses from the engine.
Thanks guys! So no weird draining/priming of the engine coolant hoses? Just take the old out, put the new in with the same connection and start it up?
Of course you'll have to burp the engine since you'll be putting an air bubble in the coolant lines. Check the "101 Topic" for How to Burp Your Engine.
The Kuuma was supposed to be a drop in replacememt....but it is a tad taller. Had to remove the drawer frame also.
Ken, were you still able to get the new water heater in through the midline opening with the teak trim off? It has been several years since I did this project but I remember thinking that it seemed like the opening had been cut to the dimensions of the water heater and that a bigger model would not go through the opening.
The alternative would be to take the sink out. Either straight down or turned on end and rotated, the water heater should make it through the sink opening. Our sink came out pretty easily when we replaced it - nothing but silicone and the hose and faucet connections holding it in place.
Yes the hole for the water heater door was big enough. But there was not enough clearance to get under the drawer frame.
I just purchased a Seaward at the Toronto boat show. All fittings are on the front.
The coolant hoses on my existing rusted out hulk are at the front (port side)It looks like there is plenty of room if you install a couple of 90 male thread to hose barb elbow
The starboard end of the old heater including fittings is 18" from the door. the new heater is about the same in length
Am I missing something here ?
Andrew
Andrew, no, you're not missing anything. The addition of two 90 degree elbows is a good solution for the front coolant connections. All we're suggesting is that if one has a choice, a skipper should buy the rear (starboard) connections because the connections to the coolant lines might be easier. That's all. Nice solution on your part.
I am not even sure it's a water heater issue, but even though this reply is to an old post I thought there were enough current replies to post here. One question is mounting. I have the Mark 2, 1997 model, does one go in from the top and slide it into position, having to remove the brass fitting and maybe even the electric cover. my current seaward is only 10 years old. it is 16 deep not counting the 1 1/2 inch to 2 inches of the cover plate and the brass pressure release valve that is about 2+ inches, 13 tall and 13 wide, with rear mounted engine hose connections, access to water hoses there in 2 cut outs.. or do you remove all of the water hoses attached to the bulkhead under the sink area and slide it in that way? the one that catalina direct sells says 19 inches. I am assuming the includes the brass relief valve and such. does anyone know for sure?
More importantly, we didn't have any issues to speak of until the morning we were about to leave Victoria. In the morning the water pump started cycling. I quick looked to the water heater, as several years ago the nipple had failed. turned out the input water hose had come loose, so I tightened the clamp. but now there seems to be less water pressure on the hot. When I turn on the cold water pressure is fine, and the pump comes on and says on until shut off, but the hot water flow is about half and it cycles on and off. also seemed like we've cleaned out 2 1/2 cups of water over the last 3 days. don't know if that's what leaked out originally and is slowing finding it's way into the bilge.
Randy,
Your boat must be different than mine as there is a solid bulkhead at the sink cabinet back that the engine coolant hoses run thru. The only way to get mine out was to disconnect all hoses and electrical (tough, as there is not a lot of room in front of the heater) rotate it 90 degreed and lift it out through the top of the seat. All the batteries must be removed to accomplish it.
Jack
thanks Jack. , hope to be in touch in the spring to take a look. my bulkhead looks like its screwed on, but with all the hoses , I'd rather drop it in as you did. we're at Cap Sante today till noon, but sounds like you'll be off on your way. safe travels
I have a 2001 MKII. I need to replace the water heater. It is located under the settee. The heat exchanger hoses are out the back. I have a couple of questions. First, how do I keep the engine antifreeze from spilling all over when I disconnect the hoses? If I have to drain the antifreeze from the engine, how do I do that without just draining it into the bilge? Second, it appears that the Seaward replacement is 3/4" less deep than a kuumo. Will the Kuumo fit?
Quote from: dhagen on May 13, 2019, 06:55:44 AM
I have a 2001 MKII. I need to replace the water heater. It is located under the settee. The heat exchanger hoses are out the back. I have a couple of questions. First, how do I keep the engine antifreeze from spilling all over when I disconnect the hoses? If I have to drain the antifreeze from the engine, how do I do that without just draining it into the bilge? Second, it appears that the Seaward replacement is 3/4" less deep than a kuumo. Will the Kuumo fit?
Drain the hoses at the engine end, there will always be some in those hoses to heater unless you're quick, super quick, in capping them when you remove them. Little thing called gravity. Unless you have a shop vac. All sorts of options there.
Fit? IIRC, it's Kuuma. You have the boat, can't you measure? Note that the Kuuma is a less expensive brand than even the Seaward, which - Seaward - has a 10-15 year life. Do you want to have to do this yet again even sooner? Your boat, your choice. :)
Here's a link for some other ideas:
http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,8541.msg60271.html#msg60271
Good luck.
DH. You can get hose pinching locking pliers, or evacuate the coolant via the circulation pump barb or where there's a connector. Blow out the lines and WH and you'll have but a few drops missing. If you drain some coolant from the exhaust manifold you can blow the WH back to the engine, or remove both hoses at the pump/thermostat (after pinching) and deal with draining it directly into a bucket. Many cats to skin doing this.
QuoteI have a 2001 MKII. I need to replace the water heater. It is located under the settee. The heat exchanger hoses are out the back. I have a couple of questions. First, how do I keep the engine antifreeze from spilling all over when I disconnect the hoses? If I have to drain the antifreeze from the engine, how do I do that without just draining it into the bilge? Second, it appears that the Seaward replacement is 3/4" less deep than a kuumo. Will the Kuumo fit?
Shamrock is also a 2001 MKll. I replaced the water heater a couple of seasons ago with a Seaward. Was a close fit. The batteries and battery box had to come out. Measure the replacement, I would not trust the advertised size. As far as the existing coolant, I'd suggest doing a coolant change. I tape over the limber holes under the engine then drain and pump out from there. Just run the engine for a minuet or two don't put hot coolant there.
One other nice-to-do project, especially if you need to winterize, is plumb in a hot water bypass.
Jim