I have a large crack in my tinted glass port above the galley, gooped with silicone for now. It's on the "to do very soon" list.
I have read the Tech Wiki info.
Looks like Catalina goes without the screws that are there? Any new or helpful info from anyone who has replaced these fixed windows would be greatly appreciated....
I just replaced the two on the starboard side. Used the old windows as templates for the new ones. The inside edges are beveled. The plexiglass guy who made mine could router enough to get the correct bevel. I used a grider to grind down the bevel to fit.
Scraped all the old sealant off. Then used acetone to clean up the opening as much as possible.
Taped off the exterior around the window and taped off the window opening on the interior.
Next I cut short 1/2" pieces of 1/8" thick black foam gasket. Put these every 6" or so around the channel where the new window would sit. It keeps a gap between the window channel and window so the new sealant doesn't squirt out when you press the new window into place.
Filled the channel with Dow 785 black sealant. I used about 1.5 tubes. Put in more than you think you will need I was surprised how little squirted out when the window was in place.
Pressed the window into place. I put the screws back in the window and snugged them up.
I found with out the screws, the window wouldn't get a good seal. Once you push the window into the sealant, you need something to keep the pressure on. I found the screws worked well. No leaks.
Thanks for you comments. I love benefitting from another's experience....
Please elaborate on the bevelling and how thick was the plexiglass?
I also had to replace this port, like yours it was cracked in corner by the screw.
I ordered a replacement port from the Catalina Factory, they have the template, but suggested I trace the glass outline on pattern paper and send that to them which I did.
They returned the port insert and it fit perfectly, it is beveled on the inside edges. The Catalina Rep (Warren Pandy) also sent detailed installation instructions. I believe the cost was around $80-$90.
The factory uses Dow Sealant 795 when installing these ports. Catalina will not drill holes for the screws, if you order the replacements from them. If want to use the screws then you will need to drill them yourself. Personally I had 2 ports crack and both cracks originated at the corner screw holes so I filled the existing holes with epoxy and installed the windows w/o the screws as was strongly recommended by Catalina..
I recommend that you call Catalina and request their installation instructions.
I replaced the old windows on our past C&C 30 with plexi and also used the Dow 795, only with the white. Preparation is everything as it is for most stuff. I also made sure that I had a jig the hold the plexi in place while the silicone set. I have a descrption on my site, which some day I'll update with my Catalina projects. ( http://blog.koehlmann.ca/2011/07/ (http://blog.koehlmann.ca/2011/07/)).
Guys : A Tip -- When you are working with acrylic or lexan always make sure that the hole for a screw is larger in diameter than the screw. Or it Will crack!!
A thought
Jeff, when we first took our boat out during the rainy season (in 1998, Decwember - seems like almost yesterday :D), there was this HUGE puddle on the nav station. While it was still pouring, I pulled the "deadlight" fixed port light, window, etc.). It has a handful of screws. No idea whether or not the PO added them or not. I used silicone, 'cuz I didn't know any better back then.
Oddly enough, the "window" is still there... :clap
We replaced ours about 3 years ago.
Had a local plastic fabricator duplicate the old ones.
Used black butyl tape and screws.
No leaks at all.
Thanks for the input so far. I am trying to decide weather to order the windows from Catalina or just get them reproduced locally. The bevelled edges may be an issue. I will look into it. As far as I can tell it's 1/4" plexiglass. Catalina no longer likes the idea of screws, so that's another consideration for the replacement.
Stu.....I am glad you still have your window. Mine isn't leaking yet as it is very dry here but there is a crack that extends down from one of the screws down 3/4 of the way to the bottom. I don't know why it cracked. It showed up last year and has progressed to the point that we could see through it and I am expecting it to break in half soon! I have gooped the crack with silicone for now.
FYI, the installation instructions from Catalina are in the Tech Wiki. The cost for the replacement window was approximately $100 from Catalina in 2010. Dow Corning 795 is the sealant they recommend. We did the same as recommended above in terms of spacers to keep the sealant from sliding out. We did not replace the screws because Catalina told us there were just there to keep the window in place while the sealant cured and we were concerned about cracking the new window. We used angled boards to press in the window while the sealant cured. It worked fine. No leaks in three years.
The hard part we found was in getting the window out. Others have recommended using strong wire like piano wire to cut the seal between the window and the the fiberglass. That is easier said than done. Cleaning the old sealant off also was a time-consuming chore.
I got my fixed port lens from Select Plastics in CT and they did the bevel and drilled the holes. Perfect fit. I realize you are in OZ, but at least this is an indicator that someone in the business does the detail work. Got to be someone in OZ that does the same.
Ed
I have read a few posts about installation "jigs" that hold the plexi in place while the adhesive sets.
Could someone post a pic of a jig or try to describe one for me?
I am going to need to do this soon and cannot imagine how to make such a jig.
Hi Lazybones,
This is not on a Catalina 34, rather a C&C 30, but the principal is the same. This jig was used on both sides of the boat for both salon windows. It supports the Plexiglas a certain distance up from the deck and holds it against the exterior of the cabin so that it follows the curve. Spacers (an interior edge trim) were used to prevent it from squeezing all the silicone out. I let it set 24 hours before removing the jig.
If you Catalina is like ours, the Plexiglas is recess somewhat, so the vertical support would need to work slightly differently (possibly with a temporary plug that you remove later), but to press it against the exterior surface, you could us a similar approach of support against the toe rail below and the hand rail above.
Interesting looking Jig!
I have been awaiting a reply from Catalina for 2 weeks now. Nothing. I was asking about the price of their windows and some clarification of the instructions on their suggestions for installation as I found them a bit vague.
I have since found a good local source for the plexiglass windows but can't quite understand the Catalina directions for pressing the plexiglass and not using screws.
Apart from the above jig for the C&C, anyone out there with experience with this project?
Thanks Frederick, interesting bit of Rube Goldberging there. Looks like it will work brilliantly and transfer to our 34.
Jeff,
Went through the same angst when I replaced one of my fixed ports last year. I didn't want to deal with spacers, just wanted to smoothly lay in a good bead of caulk and have it press out consistently around the inside of the port, because you can see it from the outside. Despite some opinions not to, I used the screws and it worked out just fine. Held the port in place and didn't over squeeze out the caulk. Just don't tighten down the screws.
By the way, apologies for the earlier Oz reference. I wasn't paying close enough attention to your information, but noticed this time you are in BC!
Regards,
Ed
One other thing about the spacers - you can see them after the window is installed if you know where to look for them. I also think they could lead to an inconsistent seal because they could prevent you from compressing the window far enough so that the sealant fills any voids. So, if I had it to do over again, I would consider omitting them.
I put spacers in when I replaced the windows. I used 1/8" thick foam weatherstripping. I can't see them at all. I'd be worried if you pushed the window in too far in one spot, you would force all the sealant out and have a thin spot.
I believe an older set of CTY instructions says to cut wooden bows that can be springed between the lifelines and the plexi.
You don't need or want a ton of force, just to hold it so it cures.
I'd think about holding the plexi in its vertical position (duct tape strips?) and then you need less horizontal pressure against it. You defo need spacers of some fashion - the idea is to NOT push out the 795.
I replaced both of mine last year (or maybe 2019 lost track :D). I used Dow 795 from Sealant Engineering, small foam pads for spacers, and the screws. There is caulk between the foam pads and the edge of the portlight so no leaks. I thought about 3M VHB, and making a jig. I decided it worked fine since 1987, why change. If you reuse the screws make sure the holes in the portlight are slightly larger than the screw to avoid cracking.
Andy from Boatworks Today on you tube has an excellent video. He suggests using 3M high bond tape which is what I did. The tape provides space for the Dow sealant so there is no squeeze out