I need a new line on my Hood 915. I bought 90 feet of 1/2" double braid polyester, not the super stretch resistant type. For this application it seems to me a bit of stretch is a good thing as I have to cleat off two lines on the one cleat.
I ran it through the furler to see how it fits through and works with the rope stripper and other blocks along the way and as I'd hoped, the .060'' difference makes no difference.
Since it's a nice rainy day today I made a fid from 7/16 dowel and a pusher from 1/4'' dowel. A few minutes on Youtube with norseaknothead and I made two constant diameter splices in less than two beers. The first practice round had thin spots and I realized what I did wrong. Cut it off and did another with much better results. If it so happens that there is a thick spot that drags through the furler, I'll just re-do it on the boat.
It's quite easy and no one should have to run off to a rigger to get a line spliced. If I can do it I'm sure anyone can. Not so fast you say? I agree that this would be extremely difficult with certain types of Line. I tried to practice with the line that came off the furler and I couldn't even open the cover to pull out any core.
This is an update:
This ordinary line is easy on the hands, nice and smooth and soft. Due to this, I believe, it does not have the traction in the drum for reefing. The few times I attempted to let out only half the sail the drum would slip no matter how tight I pulled the continuous line and cleated it off. The old line was rough and nasty on my hands but had the ability to hold in 20kt winds when about half the sail was unfurled.
Live and learn.
The slipping may even be caused from the stretch of the line or the difference in the size.
Nice job on the splice.
Mike
My Hood 915 has a 7/16ths line, not sure of the brand, perhaps New England Ropes, but it holds fine in any wind. I furl my headsail frequently when it is really blowing. What size line is it that you are using? It looks pretty thick. But perhaps it is the photo.
It's 1/2 line but it measures less, it is right between 7/16 and 1/2. I had hoped that this little bit larger would grab better, but this stuff is silky smooth. The amount of tension I can put on this line pulling it by hand over a cleat will likely never stretch it. I should have two cleats or a sheet stopper. Just wrapping the two lines around the cleat is not very tight no matter how hard I pull it.
How do you guys cleat this off?
also... you lose about 5' of line each time you redo this splice, good to know. And thanks for the compliment!
Quote from: Indian Falls on February 09, 2013, 02:03:23 PM
This is an update:
This ordinary line is easy on the hands, nice and smooth and soft. Due to this, I believe, it does not have the traction in the drum for reefing. The few times I attempted to let out only half the sail the drum would slip no matter how tight I pulled the continuous line and cleated it off. The old line was rough and nasty on my hands but had the ability to hold in 20kt winds when about half the sail was unfurled.
Live and learn.
Are you pulling BOTH ends of the line? I found that if I tightened both ends it would hold for me.
I too tighten both ends of the line and cleat both ends together when I reef the jib, and it holds just fine.
What?? if you pull one line or the other... it either rolls up or rolls out... what am I missing here?
When I cleat off the furler I have pull hard on both lines and wrap around the cleat. It would be nice to lock the outgoing line in a sheet stopper so I can pull on the other line real hard and cleat it. Or is this simply not done?
What I did when I still had the continuous line system is if I had to reef is to hold tension on both lines, use the stern cleat to tie off one line. Take up any slack with the other end, may get a partial turn of the roller as you do this, then cleat off the other end on the roller furler cleat. Worked ok, but still would slip if the gusts got too big or the drum too wet. Much happier with my new single line.
Ken,
Since my furler never slipped, I didn't think about cleating with the stern cleat and the furler cleat. I always wondered why the furler line was so long! Perhaps this is the reason. I have always cleated off both "roll-out & take-up" lines tight on the furler cleat. I also roll my furler pretty tight when I roll it up. I don't know if this helps but I don't want to worry about it unraveling during a blow at the dock, when I am not there.
As long as you have a couple wraps of the sheets around the furled sail I don't think you have to worry about unfurling at the dock. Not enough sail area exposed to catch the wind.
In addition to cleating off the furling line, I also use a sail tie around the furled sail at the clew. I see a couple of sails trashed every year when they come unfurled at the docks. I know it's usualy not necessary, it's just a thing I always do. Even small thunder storms can have shifty and strong winds. Takes less only a few seconds.
Jim
In addition to triple wrapping the jib sheets around the sail when furled, I also keep the sheets snugged tight on the sheet winches when I am not sailing. My winch covers are designed to allow for this as well. This insures that my roller furling will not unravel during a storm. I have seen too many head sails trashed when they have come loose in a blow at the dock.
I completely agree with 3 wraps arong the roller furler. Inaddition to a tight/cleated furling line, it is really necessary to keep the genoa sheet lines taunt as the other part of keeping the furling system from acidently rollering out in a T-storm.
I find it very important to keep the sheet lines taunt as I tend to grab them when I go forward to the bow. When on someone's elses boat that has loose sheets, I neary bust my a__.
A thought
I never thought of the stern cleat. It seems quite awkward thinking about it but once I'm out there I'm going to try using the stern cleat and the furler cleat, if it still slips then it must simply be that the drums traction surface is worn.
I may try a different line, one that is not so silky smooth on the outside.
Thanks for the tip!
Dan: very nice splicing work.
We have a single line furler on Serenity and learned the hard way the need to keep the system tight when we leave the boat. We keep at least 3-4 wraps of the sheets around the headsail. Then I bring the sheets forward and tie them off on the pulpit, then store the rest in the anchor locker. The furling line gets snugged down with a clutch in the cockpit.
This has worked well, except for the one time year before last when I was cleaning the fairleads and left a few feet of slack in the furling line. A Santa Anna wind kicked up overnight and the headsail partially unfurled. Fortunately, a live-aboard heard the racket and secured the sail before it completely flagged itself to death. Still, it was pricy to get it repaired.
Lesson learned.
Michael
Dan:
How many turns do you wrap around the winch drum?
Larry
We have foot blocks (on our Mark I) and I tie a figure eight knot on doubled sheet lines at the foot block. The sheets are used to pull the sail out, so cleating off the furling line is what stops it from unfurling.
I may have said this on a similar post. I now use a sliding midship cleat on the outer rail as it is not in use when sailing.... Tony
In reply to the last 4 posts:
Micheal: Thanks! and I've never had a problem with the head sail unrolling at the dock for any reason. I pull the sheets tight to keep them off the deck and the furler is cleated off to stop unrolling, with about 2 wraps of the sheets around the sail...
Larry: I don't use a winch for the furler since it's a continuous line furler.
Stu: I think you're talking about a single line furler? I haven't been cleating one line, I've been pulling both hard then wrapping around a single cleat. Then finding that I cannot pull it tight enough in strong wind. If I misunderstand you... then how do you tie a fig 8 in a continuous line?
Tony: I have one of those track mounted mid-ship cleats and never thought of employing it for the ''outgoing" line when trying to reef the head sail. Just slide it back to within reach and Viola... two cleats! Thanks for the tip!
I should be able to put twice the amount of force on the furling drum with two cleats right?
You gotta love this forum, I sure do.
Quote from: Indian Falls on February 19, 2013, 07:02:57 PM
Stu: I think you're talking about a single line furler? I haven't been cleating one line, I've been pulling both hard then wrapping around a single cleat. Then finding that I cannot pull it tight enough in strong wind. If I misunderstand you... then how do you tie a fig 8 in a continuous line?
Dan, I was talking about the jib sheets. I just double up the end and tie the figure 8.
Larry,
I wrap my jib sheets at least twice around my winches then lock into the self-tailor. This is double security for me since I also wrap my furler line at least three times around the jib and then cleat it off. At the dock, I like to have the sheets taught so that I too can hold on to them walking forward, and I also hang my pistol hose on those sheets when I am washing the deck. Another reason I do this is that I do not have to lead the sheets back to the cockpit when I go sailing, they are always ready to go!
This thread is about the continuous line and I was focused on that, not paying attention to the sheets and drum wrap comments as such... My apologies if I saw no relevance to those associated comments.
I wrap 3-4-5.. whatever.. not important to me. Obviously 2 is pretty minimal and asking for trouble, which may be why I never saw my headsail unfurl unless I wanted it to.
It's the traction in the furling drum VS the continuous line that is my current bane. I do think that I'll get better bite if I use two cleats, either the midship cleat or the harder to get to stern cleat. Just have to wait another 2 1/2 months...