The Admiral is interested in tiling the counter tops on Kitty's Cat. Anyone have experience doing this?
Lance,
Have you considered the added weight that would cause?
I thought about it, but decided it was just too much weight. Same reason I gave up on the granite counter tops. Have you thought about Corian?
Cheers,
Rick
It may not be so much the weight, but the thickness. Consider the fiddles and the interface at the sink.
Lance,
I would also consider the maintenance issue with tile. I had tile counter tops in one of our past houses and they were a pain to keep clean. All those groves to fill with food and had to periodically reseal the grout to prevent it from discoloring. Also, you will need to consider what you will do when a tile cracks or the boat flexes and pops the tile loose from its plywood base.
I personally would not do this upgrade. but your boat your choice.
Paul
Thanks for the responses :thumb:. Weight isn't really an issue as we ARE cruisers only (That's why I have a Hobie 16 -- go fast boat). The other points as to maintenance, snap, cracking and pop have been forwarded to the Admiral in a suitable, 5 paragraph operations order.... I'm waiting for the counter-battery fire.....
Lance,
Am I correct that you have formica counter tops? If so may I share what I did on my previous boat, a 1979 S2, with burnt orange counters. I found that they make paint for formica that works very well. I would have done that, but decided to redo the icebox lid and the cover for the stove. So I removed the old formica and put on new. It wasn't difficult, just careful fitting before gluing. It came out very well. And best of all, I no longer got "O look at the orange counter tops"
Jim
I think a solution that might work is to inlay the tiles into you existing counter top. Power point doesn't have a tile pattern so I substituted marble. This would help reduce the weight and keep the tiled area small enough that cracking from flexing probably will not occur. Another option might be tile on one side and an inlaid chopping block on the other.
Formica is really easy to work with, and comes in many styles, patterns and colors. It is flexible and has the same dimensions as original. I would look at this option (except I like my white counter-tops). It's fun to see how each person does different upgrades!
Quote from: Ken Juul on September 13, 2011, 07:31:42 AM
I think a solution that might work is to inlay the tiles into you existing counter top. Power point doesn't have a tile pattern so I substituted marble. This would help reduce the weight and keep the tiled area small enough that cracking from flexing probably will not occur. Another option might be tile on one side and an inlaid chopping block on the other.
Great idea, Ken. I don't know if there's tile thin enough, but if there is, Lance could just surface mount it, too. That'd be hard to do with any chopping block, though. Nice illustration. Hope we don't get Kitty hooked on the marble, for Lance's sake! :shock:
Lance : The first thing that you are going to have to do (I'm guessing) is to remove the old formica as I'm not too sure that any tile adhesive will stick to formica !?!
You should remember that a Boat FLEXES !! and needs to flex !
If you have already pulled the sink to remove the old formica, you have a great pattern for some new formica or you could go for Corian like the MkIIs have.
A Corian Top will require a new under the counter top mounted sink.
A deeper sink may be why Gerry Douglas moved the waterheater location in the MKII ??
You might want to point some of this stuff out to the Admiral. A few thoughts
You don't have to remove old Formica.
Remove the countertop. Hit the old Formica with a belt sander. Cut out the new Formica half inch oversize. Contact cement on both surfaces. Position new top with scraps of Formica as spacers. Pull the spacers. Press in place. Roll it. Trim flush with a flush trim router bit. Reinstall. It's a two to three hour job including installation. Much faster, cleaner, lighter, cheaper than tile.
I am guessing the particle board under the formica is probably 1/2-5/8". Most tile is aprox 1/4". My plan would entail routing through the formica and into the particle board so that the tiles are slightly elevated over the formica surface. Should be plenty of strenght left in the particle board to support this.
Lance,
I would go to home depot and check out some of the products that they have to replace the counter top. Another idea is call the factory and see what they might have hanging around for the c34.
As to the tile I agree with Ron the boat will flex and crack the tile and grout, and the weight issue are you racing.
See you you in Annapolis you now where I'll be. :thumb:
Paul
No Paul, where will you be? Hey, do you have anymore of the L/S Catalina Yachts (Est 1969) left?
Sorry lance we are out of them
Paul
Hello Lance - I just happened upon this thread and if you have decided that the Admiral must be obeyed, I can tell you that I tiled both the galley and head counters on my previous Cat 36 and the results were BRILLIANT. I will briefly explain what I did, but you are welcome to email me at Homewest@socal.rr.com for more details. Preparation - I removed the sink and used sandpaper to scuff the Formica. I had a friend who had given me the idea and he just tiled up to the refer & food locker edges and then tiled the tops, but this looked messy to me. So, I cut and installed 1" wide 1/4 " thick teak battens to frame both the openings and the lids. The battens were screwed in with the screw holes countersunk & plugged. This allowed me to tile up to the teak framing for a very neat appearance. Before tiling, I varnished the teak frames. Slight digression, but I'll add that in the case of the folding refer lid, I used steel strips from beneath to turn it into one solid lid with new beefy hinges on the rear and a beefier lift handle. Anyway, I then used 2" square tiles and (very important) epoxy mortar to lay the tiles. Note, I did not remove the counter's edge fiddles but rather tiled right up to them. For the lids, I tiled within the frames. Note that with the 1/4" teak and 1/4" tiles, there was a perfect match and the wood almost looked "inlayed" in the counter when it was done. Simply grout and replace the sink. (You can be a bit messy trimming the tiles where they meet the sink hole, as the lip of the sink will cover your mistakes). The head was a snap, just remove & replace the sink. I probably kept that boat for 5 years after the tile was done and never had any cracking. I liked the scale of the 2" tiles, but I have seen it done with standard 5-6" counter tiles and it might be easier with fewer tiles to trim. Anyway, I loved it. Let me know if you have any questions.
Mike
Mike,
That is what we're planing to do. The 2" tiles are easier to work with. Interesting thought on the refer lid. Do you have any images?
Hi Lance -
Unfortunately this was all pre-digital, however the upgrades did get a 2 page spread in the Mainsheet in the late 80's. I still have the copy and will see what I can do about the photos. Just think about the dry food locker. Now, take off the lid. Imagine 4 pieces of teak batten screwed into the countertop framing the edge of the opening with the corners neatly beveled picture frame style. Now, take the lid. Imagine another four battens with the same corner bevels screwed into the top of the lid framing the outer edge. If you now set the lid into the opening, you will have the teak edges of the lid setting into the teak "frame" around the opening. You fasten 2 hinges to the teak on the back edges of the inner and outer frame to make it a hinged lid. You tile within the "frame" on the lid and tile the countertop up to the edge of the "frame" on the opening. The tiles and battens both being 1/4" makes it a nice smooth counter. Take my word for it, it's really pretty after you varnish the teak. I wish you were closer, I could do it again in about 1/2 hour. I'll see what I can do about those pictures.
Mike