Greetings from a foggy day on Lake Michigan.
While attempting to diagnose why my tachometer stopped working on our 1997 mkII "SteinWay IV", I developed a more serious problem. I now have no power at the engine panel. The tachometer stopped working about a week ago and while I don't consider myself qualified to figure out the problem, I wanted to at least pull the panel and see if anything obvious was wrong like a loose or broken wire, etc. While the panel was open, I found nothing suspicious or out of order and put the panel back on. After reassembled, I turned on the key and everything came to life and I noted that the tachometer when not powered, reads about 300-400 RPM, but as soon as power was on, read zero.
I had read on the C34 Forum that the tachometer gets information from the alternator, so I next opened the engine compartment, checked the wires on the back of the alternator and wiggled them to see if anything was loose. Again, everything seemed fine. Just to see if my wiggling had any impact, I went back to the helm to start the engine and turned the key to find nothing happend. I pulled the panel and found no power from the harness "postive" wire that powers the ignition switch.
Does anyone have a suggestion of what I may have done? Is there a breaker somewhere that could have been tripped or some other obvious thing I could check? Does the inoperative tachometer provide a hint about what may be happening?
Thanks and a very Happy Father's Day to all you Dads.
-Mark Stein, Milwaukee, WI
Mark : First let me address your tach problem:
There are electro magnets inside the tach so when the key switch is ON the electro magnets are activated and the tach needle should read "0". If the tach needle moves when the key switch is OFF don't worry about where the tach needle is that is not fixable!! My info source is Teleflex as I asked the same question.
Sounds as though you have a bad power wire connection to the key switch, it could be + OR - !! It could also be a bad key switch. Make yourself a jumper wire and/or check out with a multi meter.
A few thoughts
Mark, same symptoms I had, it was all in the switch, about 20 bucks,
Mark, I meant to say the keyed ignition switch
When I got the boat way back in early 1989 the key switch went bad by mid summer.
One of the problems that I think happened is that the switch was mounted upside down !! The weep hole was mounted on the top so NO moisture/condensation could ever get out. The other contributor was the Plexiglas panel ended above the switches, so the key switch was exposed to the elements. The new plastic panel (I made) now goes from top to bottom with a small circular hole for each switch and key.
The initial problem was solved with a new key switch with its weep hole mounted on the bottom. I also installed "rubber boots" on the key switch, the starter switch, the blower switch and my "press to test" hi temp alarm toggle switch.
I bought two switches that day in 1989 and have carried that spare ever since !!
No wonder hull #788 sits so low in the water. I tend to buy replacement items in 2s and 3s !!
Ron's right, moisture on those panels is an issue. Our solution was to install a canvas cover that snaps in over the entire panel. It matches the covers we have over the cockpit coamings. Haven't had any issues with our cockpit panel.
Stu is correct, most C34 owners have made Sunbrella covers for the engine instrument panel. Don't use Velcro as it has a short life - sticking & UV. Instead use snaps with the male snap that substitutes for the panel screws.
Most clear "plastic" covers are acrylic, but I made mine out of the stronger Lexan (polycarbonate). The cover also protects the Lexan as the UV tends to turn it yellowish. A thought