Looking for information on inside element, back flame arrestor for my Air Filter. The material looks like heavy steel mesh inside the air filter. Mine is gone. Cannot find a source for replacement. The foam covering on the outside has been replaced but need info on the material for the inside. Since it was there the last time I looked it must have burned up. Is this necessary to replace and has anyone else had the problem. Where can I get the material. Have called Universal, Kobota, ATV, etc. to no avail.
Jim Hamilton, Sea Dream C34, 1990
Hey Jim, interesting to find this thread today as I just got back from the boat where I installed the K&N RU-2450 as described here....
http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,1755.0.html
I got mine on Amazon for $26.51 with free shipping to my nephew's place in California.
I share the concern of some other people about that mesh breaking down and being ingested.
Jim, Steve's right, that's one option. The other one is the replacement filter assembly brought out by Kubota/Universal about the time your boat was built. Take a look at the manuals and the parts list for your engine and you'll see the "newer" (1990s) round cylinder with a foam pad around it.
Them's yur options...
Jim : The inside stainless "shavings" are just there to catch dirt in the air before the air is ingested into the intake manifold. You can make your own foam "noise suppressor".
What I'd do is to get some very course stainless "Brillo" pad/scrubber (with out soap) and contour it to fit inside the round container. Then lightly spray the pad with WD40 so it's oil will catch any dirt in the air. The boat environment is a relatively clean environment as compared to land.
You can also contact Westerbeke parts and pay One Arm and One Leg !! A thought
Jim,
Like Steve, I too just installed the K&M Filter this past weekend. I had followed some earlier threads on the subject and thought the K&M to be a good option since it only requires pulling the filter off occasionally and washing it down to clean. I just went down to Pep Boys here in San Diego (an auto parts chain) and ordered the filter.
I'm keeping my old filter for now. But.. If you need one at a later date I might just have a spare. :wink:
Quote from: Steve Wormsbecher on April 21, 2011, 04:11:46 PM
I share the concern of some other people about that mesh breaking down and being ingested.
I often have to wonder where people come up with these "concerns". I have run K&N filters in cars for well over 500,000 total miles. My car is blasted nearly 5 months per year with wet road salt or dry dusty road salt and all this crud makes it to the filter and it gets VERY dirty. These filters just do not wear out even under the far more severe service of a car in the NE.. I've yet to see my boats engine take salt spray directly into the filter like I see with my car.. I simply clean them and re-lube them twice per year. Never, ever seen the mesh break down... I just wish I could fit one on my current Westerbeke but I can't...
Mainesail, the quote was actually with respect to the old filter not the K&N, as I have just purchased / installed a K&N.
This is what I found when I first inspected the factory filter after purchase a few years back; hence my "concern".
I found this old thread on replacement air filter options and decided to order the K&N RU-2450 from Amazon. Cost was $41.03 including tax. Cost for OEM replacement from Catalina Direct is $12.40 for the foam filter only and $62.90 for the aluminum housing w/honeycomb wire mesh and foam filter. Regardless of cost I feel that the K&N RU-2450 is the best quality clean air source for my M25. Also, I was concerned that a piece of the attachment ring from my existing air cleaner was going to fall into the air intake. Thanks for those who blazed the trail ahead with the information and recommendations for upgrading the air filter.
Guys : The foam is not a filter persay - it's a noise suppressor. Go to a fabric store and you can buy (for 50 cents) a life times worth of 1/2" foam and make you own!!!!
A thought
I've received my K&N RU-2450 air filter and will install this weekend. Question: what to do with the vent hose that runs from my current air filter to a fitting on the valve cover?
Search "breather hose". Lots written here.
OOPs! I see it in the subject now. D'oh.
One way is that there is a fitting from KN that you can use.
How is your hose currently attached? A picture?
ken
JIm
It depends on the breather hose size (I THINK it's 3/8) but the 85-1337 may fit. It is meant to go between the plates on a chrome filter, but according to KN can be used on the rubber flanges. Pricey, but a one-time purchase.
Or use a nylon hose barb elbow up into the base.
kk
Here's a picture of my engine before installation. The breather hose is clearly visible. The problem now is that the base flange that attaches to the air intake manifold is breaking apart. I've ordered and received the recommended K&N filter which I like a lot. The problem now is to somehow adapt the breather hose from the valve cover.
(//)
Hi Hugh
I think you're missing a boat around that iron genny!
Looks like you went thru a few rattle cans of Rustoleum copper-bronze?!
The KN vent adapter should work.
Or as I said drill and install a nylon hose barb elbow under the bottom rubber flange. If you do a search you will see how Rod Collins (Mainesail) did it.
Another way (if you can get at it) is to stuff an oiled rag in the intake, drill/tap the intake throat just below the clamp, vacuum out chips, install a hose barb. The XPB actually has a knockout on the intake manifold for a vent hose fitting.
Is that an XP or an M-25?
Did you leave the oil switch on the block bolted to the Hx bracket?
Is a 2" Hx causing any issues?
Are she in salt? brass fittings not that good an idea.
Do you have any other good pics for posterity?
Cheers
Ken
http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,8875.msg63915.html#msg63915 (http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,8875.msg63915.html#msg63915)
Ken
I had the engine soda blasted and professionally painted with a high temp epoxy engine paint. It wasn't cheap but has been well worth the expense. The paint has been bullet proof so far.
The engine is a M25.
No problems with the oil switch on the HX bracket that I'm aware of. What is the negative?
The 2" HX has been fine. I did increase the small discharge fitting with a larger size to allow for more water to move through the HX. Operating temp is 160-180 at 3/4 throttle.
What is the alternative to the brass fittings on the HX?