Hello All!
The Admiral and I have made a decision to move Frolic to a mooring to curb boat expenses a bit over the next couple of years as we reallocate funds to open a new business. Obviously, we'll need to keep the batteries topped off and would also like to generate enough excess juice to enjoy weekends aboard without having to spark up the motor all the time.
I am jealous of Black Dragon's oh-so-sweet 400 watt bimini! Nice job Steve! However, we don't plan on doing extended cruising anytime soon and that seems like overkill given our current use. I'd like to hear any opinions on how many watts/volts you all think we'll need to enjoy the boat without shore power and with reasonable upfront expenses. Here in Maryland, a wind generator is fairly useless, so solar is the only option as I see it.
Thanks for your help!!
Steve
Depending on how often you will get to your boat, you can use a small solar panel to keep sufficient charge on one battery to run a bilge pump if needed, and then use a Honda 1000 genset to meet your full recharge needs when aboard. Not a very elegant solution, but certainly a cost effective one. Just a thought.
Hi Steve,
Congratulations on your move to a mooring. It is all we have ever used and pay only $275 each year to register the mooring. We travel back and forth by inflatable with a small Honda OB, have access to water and pump out at the town pier.
Our electrical consumption is for bilge pump, fresh water pump, and engine starting. We have LED lights throughout. In the cabin, at night, we always use a small butane camping lantern, and that is as much for warmth as bright reading light at the salon table.
We run the engine to leave the mooring and always do that for about 30 minutes, as much for the engine to reach operating temperature, as for battery recharge. During a the sailing season the batteries were always at at least 75% when we arrived aboard. Our sailing is once or twice a week from May 1 through October 30.
This past year we added a Sunsei 1500 Solar Panel. It is a 1500 mAmp and 23.3 watt panel (about 14" x 38"). I think this panel is no longer being made but you might find one online on closeout. We find the batteries are always fully charged now when we arrive onboard and find our 4 x 6 volt golf cart batteries respond well. We do have a charge regulator but probably do not need one with this much battery storage. This winter, for the first time, I left the batteries onboard and the solar panel connected to the complete battery bank. They have stayed above 90% charge for the entire winter. We do have a clear tarp. I will definitely fully charge, equalize and desulfinate with the battery charge before launch and that will be a good way to bring the batteries back to 100%.
I love the feeling of independence for summer cruising and the idea that we can go where we want to go depending mostly on wind and sun for our needs.
Gary
Depending on how far up on the Sassy, you could have about one hour's worth of motoring to get out to the bay. If you have a decent Alt/Reg, your batteries will be charged.
Gary, You use the butane light. I'm curious if there are any carbon monoxide concerns. Do you have CO monitors? Thanks
Scotty,
We do have a carbon monoxide detector. When we use the butane lamp we always have the sliding hatch partially open, or sometimes no hatch boards at all. For CO production the lantern is probably no worse than using the CNG stove.
We also use an Origo Heat Pal in cold or wet weather to warm the cabin. That is alcohol fueled and again we leave the sliding hatch back 6-12 inches.
Gary
Steve,
We have been on a mooring for the last six years. We do not have any solar or wind generation to charge our batteries. We do not have any problems with power. We motor on and off the mooring. The boat gets used several times per week. We are able to be out on the hook for two nights and the motor will start up using the same battery that has been powering our lights, radio and video player. I use the original wiring with a high output alternator and external regulator and two group 31 batteries. I need to add that we do not have a refrigerator.
If you want to extend the life of your expensive batteries, leaving them partially charged will rapidly kill them. A solar panel is the way to go. The panel will charge the batteries up to 100% during the week you're away. The alternator will simply make up for your use on the weekends. Sure you could "depend" on the alternator, but your batteries will NOT be fully charged when you return, and you will shorten their life. See the discussion of charging in the Gotcha topic, here: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,4922.0.html, reply #3.
The very best thing you can do is to buy a solar panel and a battery monitor. For your use a solar panel anywhere from 11 watts to 25 watts should do, and wouldn't need a regulator.
Thanks Stu! I am relieved! I think I will add two more batteries to the bank to make certain to have plenty of reserve and sleep well!
I will echo Gary's positive comments. I have used the Sunsei 1500, with a regulator, for the last three years to trickle charge my 4 6v Trojans (2 banks). I have always been on a can and have found this a satisfactory way to keep the batteries topped off. I currently have the solar panel attached while on the hard and the batteries have maintained their charge through a tough-cold Chicago winter. You may want to call Sunsei direct. I didn't know that the 1500 model was discontinued. Good luck, Ken
Thanks again all!
I found a Sunsei SE-1500 online at http://www.earthtechproducts.com/p192.html for $189. Far less than I expected to pay!
Apart from the Catalina 34 being a great boat, this board makes my life easy!
Fair winds!
Steve
Hi Steve,
Glad to hear that you found a Sunsei 1500. They are scarce. Next question is "where to mount" I will be curious where you decide to do that and would love to hear from Ken (and others) on this. The panel has a glass surface so it can not be stepped on and needs to be in a place where it does not restrict access. I found that it just slips under the traveler, on the mid-line of the boat, under the boom, and ends near the forward section of the sliding hatch cover. It was easy to run wire from that point down through the mast collar and to the charge controller and batteries. I do have a mast cover in the cabin that is slip on vinyl with velcro (looks like wood color) and that hides the solar panel wiring too. This location allows me to handle the main sail furling....the panel is only 18" wide so it does not restrict access to the boom.
In any case let us know where you decide to locate the panel and Ken it would be great to know your solution too!
Gary
Gary,
I'm a bit embarrassed to tell you. Initially I did pretty much what you described i.e the panel was placed under the traveler for max exposure to sunlight. I now simply place it on the starboard cockpit seat,aft of the dodger, with a direct wire run to my battery compartment. Upon returning to the boat I disconnect, take the panel below and stow in the aft cabin. The wire is left attached to the regulator/battery banks and lies easily out of the way in the battery compartment. Way down on my list of things to do would be to install a permanent bracket mount off the stern but then again "if it aint broke-----------"
Ken
Ken,
Fully understand......I have never really liked the rail installations too much. While they are flexible to keep a panel facing the sun, they begin to make a boat look a bit cluttered to my eye. The installation I mentioned just fits under the boom, looks great, is out of the way of most foot traffic, and protected by the boom. It is a space that can be under used too. The Sunsei does tuck under the traveler and ends at the extreme forward end of the sliding hatch cover. That allows for the wiring to drop through the mast collar. As mentioned I have a mast cover below but the wire would tuck into the mast slot and hide very well.
Anyway, they are terrific panels, and really keep the batteries charged, especially when a boat does not have easy access to shore power on a regular basis.
Thanks for posting your reply Ken!
Gary
Gary,
Ironically, the one time I went to the docks last summer for an "old fashioned" shore power charge (that I really didn't need) prior to a cruise, raccoons got into the cabin through the starboard cockpit/aft cabin port that I leave open when on the can but failed to close---another reason to stay on a mooring can with the Sunsei !
Best regards,
Ken
Ken,
Not to give you raccoon nightmares but....a lobstermen friend reports being alongside deer as they swim to Maine islands.......mm-mm.
Best regards!
Gary
Gary-
With the melting ice caps maybe polar bear sightings are next albeit they are less likely to climb aboard and crawl through the port access into the cabin.
Ken
All:
12 Volt neophyte question: I was about to order a solar panel per our conversation in the string above, but then I began to contemplate Stu's post re: my need for a charge controller if I chose to boost my battery recovery time a bit with 40 watt panel rather than the 11-25 watt panel as noted.
I am also wondering how or if I should somehow wire this through my Xantrex freedom 1000 charger/inverter... Do I need to do this or can I wire the solar panel directly to the battery banks? How do I curtail any back-bleed from the batteries to the panels during nighttime hours?
Any suggestions are appreciated.
Love this board!
Thanks as always,
Steve
Quote from: foobie on April 16, 2011, 12:55:16 PMI am also wondering how or if I should somehow wire this through my Xantrex freedom 1000 charger/inverter... Do I need to do this or can I wire the solar panel directly to the battery banks? How do I curtail any back-bleed from the batteries to the panels during nighttime hours?
Steve,
1. Order the panel AND the controller.
2. The controller has a built in back feed preventer called a diode.
3. Your charger has nothing to do with this. Wire directly to the house bank.
4. You may want to study or re-study the wiring diagrams in the "Electrical 101" topic I've posted. http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,5977.0.html
Quote from: Stu Jackson on April 16, 2011, 06:58:36 PM
Wire directly to the house bank.
With a fuse or circuit breaker per the instructions that come with the charge controller
Thanks Stu and Steve! Top notch!