What is the consensus on the need to change the transmission fluid annually? I have never changed mine and can't find anyone at my club who has as well. I bought my '86 in 2002.
Mark, I believe the consensus is to change annually and to fill all the way during the winter months to avoid the seals drying out. Now, the method of changing the fluid appears to vary greatly...
Strange and Parallel Universes: See this from just yesterday: http://forums.catalina.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?t=107632. Somehow, it seems to me that a sailing magazine writes a column about something on a boat, and all of a sudden folks start asking questions on message boards all over the place about the conclusions & recommendations in the article. I wonder what this article was??? :D :D :D
Conclusion: Don't listen to lazy dock mates. :clown
Mark - There's no filter and only seven ounces of fluid. Any wear from the clutch plates and gears is going to be suspended in that fluid while operating. Over time, it's likely to exacerbate wear, instead of preventing it. Any amount you can remove and replace with new is going to be an improvement. I vote annually.
Craig
mark, our boats are of the same vintage. i follow the consencise and do as mike states and change yearly and fill to top for storage, but we add 9oz. of t-fluid. it seems the newer boats use 7oz....jeff
Mark : Read your owners manual on the engine/transmission. I believe it clearly states - change annually.
For your sake I hope the POs changed the oil annually!!
Stu,
I was one of those guys standing around the boat yard yakking in Olcott with the guy on the post you linked me two, small World. As there is no "harm" in changing I will change this year. And Ron, the PO had a bunch of bottles of fluid with the rest of the gear he left me so I suspect he changed annually.
Guys, any tricks to draining and filling?
Mark
I think I remember reading in the tech notes about using a turkey baster and I have used that method since. i attach about 15 inches of clear hose to the end of the baster and put it down the hole to drain out. When finished, I take the bulb off and then use a funnel to refill. You see why you need 15 inches of hose when you refill as you need enough to stick the hose down the hole bend it up around the back of H2O exchanger so it's in a vertical position when you refill. i then let the hoses and baster drain thoroughly and then put them in a Ziploc bag for storage until next year.
Another trick using the turkey baster/tube set up. Empty the trans as described. Fill completely, return to emptying again using the baster/tube. After you get about half a pint out from the bottom stop. Using the dipstick measure from the threads to level mark. Mark this distance on your clear tube. Insert tube to your mark and continue sucking out until it stops. This will give a partial flush as you renew the fluid. Credit goes to Ron I think for coming up with measuring the tube length.
I've done this twice with good success. I go to the dollar strore and buy the largest aluminum turkey tray they have (notice that changing ATF is directly related to turkeys). I then contort the tray under the engine, making sure the forward lip stays vertical and intact (I put towels in case anything may leave the tray). I unscrew and remove the bottom drain plug, then unscrew the top plug and let the ATF drain into the pan. There is not much fluid in there. I then use a turkey baster (see, the turkey reference again) and use that to suck it out of the pan. I've done the trick to extract the fluid from the top drain plug with a baster, but letting it drop is really much easier. Also, this lets all the contaminants come out. Just make sure you have a stock of sealing washers. I always have a few on hand as spares.
Roc, where do you get the washers?
I've purchased them through Torresen or Marine Parts Source. They don't cost much and it's not worth shipping just the washers, so if you order some filters or other spare parts, just order a bunch of these washers.
Most Ace Hardware, Lowes, Home Depot, etc. stores have a great selection of crush washers in their fastener isle. Roc can you post inside and outside dimensions?
Looking on line, nothing specific. One diagram lists both the dipstick and drain as 17mm. Does not say whether that is the bolt size or the head size.
I've always just sucked it out the top but I'd like to try the drain plug method. It could help getting any sediment out of the bottom