Does anyone know if the following from Catalina Direct
Traveler Car Upgrade for Straight Track
Product #: Z2251
http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=1092 (http://www.catalinadirect.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=1092)
is the same as the following from Garhauer (minus the track)
http://garhauermarine.com/ProductSpecs.cfm?pid=177 (http://garhauermarine.com/ProductSpecs.cfm?pid=177) (MT-2 on this page http://garhauermarine.com/catalog_process.cfm?cid=34 (http://garhauermarine.com/catalog_process.cfm?cid=34)
Is this the traveler upgrade that many people have mentioned in previous posts?
What about mainsheet block arrangement? What have people changed? New blocks / different configuration? Anyone have pictures?
I still have the configuration shown on page 26 of 1988 owners manual http://www.c34.org/manuals/1988/1988-C34-Owners.pdf (http://www.c34.org/manuals/1988/1988-C34-Owners.pdf)
Pierre - Yes it is. I still have the single fiddle block at the car with a single, instead of triple bail. If I did it again, I'd use three single blocks, one on each bail. I tried changing from a 5:1 to a 6:1 like in the 1988 owners manual, but I got a lot of twist. There's an article somewhere in the tech notes showing pictures of the upgrade.
Craig
It appears the same, but you may need to be careful. I don't know if your 1988 has the older Nicro Fico track on it, which will not accept the Garhauer cars in the Catalina Direct listing. I think the difference in price is probably the cost of that track.
Michael
Pierre,
Just three weeks ago I ordered then installed the traveler upgrade kit from catalinadirect.com.
The replacement was a perfect fit and much better then the 20 year old original. I felt it was a
good deal at $275.00 (US). As you can see my hull number is 288.
Steve
Sorry the hull number is really 588!
Steve
Pierre,
As they say, a picture is worth a whole lot of words. sorry for the additional posts.
My 20 year old traveler.
Steve
It appears that Catalina Direct is reselling the Garhauer Kit. Garhauer does not list the kit in their catalog but is happy to sell it to you. I don't remember the price. Give them a call before you order, they are great to work with. You will need specifics about your current set up. While your are working on your traveller, make sure it has at least one through bolt on each end. You should have a acorn nut in the salon ceiling directly under the traveller. If not Catalina has the bolts, they are 9" long or something.
The only mod I have done to my mainsheet is to remove the block on the mast indicated by the red arrow. One less friction point.
Quote from: Ken Juul on June 13, 2008, 05:21:51 AM
While your are working on your traveler, make sure it has at least one through bolt on each end. You should have a acorn nut in the salon ceiling directly under the traveler. If not Catalina has the bolts, they are 9" long or something.
Just to clarify Ken's advice: The boats came with the traveler bolted to a backing plate in the fiberglass support. That's one screw on each side. The 9 inch long bolts that Ken mentioned are additions that older boats need to have made to avoid having the traveler track rip out when accidentally gybing, which, of course, no one ever does! I'd give you the link to the Knowledgebase, but I'm not at home and on a computer without XLS so can't open or find or link it for you. If you search the Knowledgebase, use CTRL F (or F2) and search for "traveler bolt" or maybe two Ls in traveler, we're always misspelling it! Here's a link to a recent discussion: http://c34.org/bbs/index.php/topic,2781.0.html
Thanks for the info. My traveler looks like the same traveler as in above pictures and I have one through bolt on each side of traveler (acorn on ceiling as mentioned).
-PC
Last year I attended the Strictly Sail in Philly and spoke to the people at Garhauer, told them I had a 87, hull 446 and they informed me that my traveller was an older Nicro and I would have to replace the whole traveller. I ordered a new one from them. The Gods must have been smiling because there was a mix up and the order never arrived. In October I visited the Garhauer booth in Annapolis with pictures of my old traveller and they told me, in looking at the photos, that my old traveller was in fact a Garhauer and I would only have to replace the cars. Attached is a photo of my new setup. The lesson, make sure you know what kind of setup you have, you can save a heck of lot of money.
Quote from: Ken Juul on June 13, 2008, 05:21:51 AM
The only mod I have done to my mainsheet is to remove the block on the mast indicated by the red arrow. One less friction point.
Ken,
How is the sheeting working since you removed that block? I've always looked at that figuring, "There's gotta be a better way."
Quote from: Steve McGill on June 12, 2008, 03:56:54 PM
Pierre,
Just three weeks ago I ordered then installed the traveler upgrade kit from catalinadirect.com.
The replacement was a perfect fit and much better then the 20 year old original. I felt it was a
good deal at $275.00 (US). As you can see my hull number is 288.
Steve
My boat is #680 so it may work. BTW Steve, are you in Herrington Harbour? We're heading into North this weekend, transiting the bay from Solomons to Rock Hall. I'd like to get some local knowledge going into Herrington Harbour North.
Quote from: Mike Denest on June 23, 2008, 10:31:31 AM
Quote from: Ken Juul on June 13, 2008, 05:21:51 AM
The only mod I have done to my mainsheet is to remove the block on the mast indicated by the red arrow. One less friction point.
Ken,
How is the sheeting working since you removed that block? I've always looked at that figuring, "There's gotta be a better way."
Mike,
I did the same thing as did Ron and many others. It works great. I never figured out why they put that block on there... :donno:
I think they put the "extra" block at the gooseneck in order to enable the mid-hatch to open fully. This would also assume that one wouldn't use a vang, but you have to remember that a vang was considered optional on cruising boats throughout much of the '80s.
Jon,
I'll bet you're right. Good deduction. I'm sure none of the boats then came with a rigid vang.
To Mike Denest:
This is a different Steve, but I'll answer your question on entering Herrington North. The primary entrance to Herring Bay is marked by a green #1 Fl 2.5s. You can't miss it, its on a tripod. From there, head 270 dgs to a red #2 4s. (on a pile). This red #2 marks the end of the aptly named Long Bar, that at a depth of between 3-5 feet, pretty much protects the whole bay. You can cross it North of the red #2, esp with a shoal keel, but if its your first time, I wouldn't recommend it. From the red #2 head 0 dgs. You are safer if you tend lean to starboard a bit. You'll pass a green #3 daymarker on a pile. Your next mark is a green #1 4s to enter the channel into the marina. Pay close attention to the buoys as the channel has been shoaling badly. They are literally moving the buoys every month. Be mindful of depth, but don't let the occasional blip to 5 feet scare you, just stay in the channel. As you near Herrington North Marina, you'll see some boats bear way to starboard towards a restaurant called Skippers, but pay no attention, they are heading to Shipwright Harbor. The first dock you will see is the face of D. A-D docks are brand new, built after Isabel. If they put you A-D, you'll see a fairway right in front of you, and it leads to all 4 A-D docks. Very tight quarters. If E-T dock, then turn to starboard and just stay in the channel. On any E thru T dock, odd # slips are to North side of the dock, even on the South. The shoal in the middle of Rockhold/Tracey's Creek (to starboard) is very well marked. It's very easy. BTW, I'm in E-31. .
I still have all the original blocks in the mainsheet system, they are getting a bit tired but still function. Removing the one block seemed to help. Neither the soft vang or the mainsheet get in the way of the hatch.
Quote from: Jon Schneider on June 23, 2008, 02:04:39 PM
I think they put the "extra" block at the gooseneck in order to enable the mid-hatch to open fully. This would also assume that one wouldn't use a vang, but you have to remember that a vang was considered optional on cruising boats throughout much of the '80s.
Thanks Jon, the trouble with the original vang is the hatch can only open so far. Eventually we will upgrade to a rigid vang. The topping lift will remain but will only keep tension for the Dutchman.
Mike, rigid vang :thumb: :thumb: :thumb: BIG improvement. I also removed the front most boom block once i installed my rigid vang and noticed no difference. But my blocks are original and could use replacing (next purchase?)
Now that the motorcycle, car and work projects are done :shock: i can now focus on another boat project! So I finally ordered my upgraded traveler last weekend it's supposed to be here tomorrow. I can only imagine how much nicer that'll be if the rigid vang was ANY indication. Also have the adjustable sheet system. Garhauer pretty much 'is da bomb!'. :party