Catalina 34

I need to eliminate play in the rudder shaft on my 2003 MK II. Reading the older issues, I see someone just shimmed at the bottom of the tube and added epoxy there. I am not comfortable with that approach, since it implies that the load is taken on one point of the shaft rather than evenly dostributed. So I am planning to reove the rudder and have work done to shim the entire shaft.

Here is the question for anyone who may know: what needs to be done to drop the rudder: is it necessary to remove the capstan?

Thanks

Tony

tony, first block the rudder at ground level. remove bolt thru emer. tiller  cap and bolt thru steer. quad.  rudder can now be dropped. if you can dig a deep hole, do it. if not, boat will have to be picked up. total length of rudder and post is about 7' for a wing keel type and probable longer for a fin keel. just did it last season....jeff

Hi Jeff

Thanks for the quick response, and info on the length a great help: we have to dig a hole.  :clap

So, no need to remove the quadrant, just the bolt through it?

Thanks

Tony

tony, just pull the bolt thru the quad. as rudder drops, weighs about 100lbs., post will slide thru quad. you might have to loosen up the bolt on the  quad before the post will drop thru, though. my boat is stored on hot top so boat had to be lifted...jeff

Thanks Jeff

The rudder is out: only needed to dig about 18 inches: Total length on the MKII wing keel is under 6 feet.

Here is what was done, in case anyone out there would like to try this at home!

My mechanic fabricated a thin sleeve with fibreglass cloth and epoxy directly on the shaft (after waxing it first!). Once set, after 30 mins or so, removed it from the shaft by tapping gently all over with a hammer to loosen, and then used a pipe wrench to twist it free, and get it turning enough to slide off the shaft.  He then used a hacksaw to sqaure off the ends of the sleeve.  This was sanded (back on the shaft, for support), and the inside of the shaft post honed*, until a perfect tight fit. Then expoxied in place, and the end cut off flush. Today the rudder goes back in, with expectations of a perfect fit and all slop removed.

* He used a drill-mounted honing tool with a flexible join to three arms with abrasive stones mounted. Probably usually sold for honing the inside of cylinders.

(For all C34 fans: he commented that this is a much easier job on this boat than on other he has done in the past.)


Tony