My 1988 C34 Hull # 645 stays in the water year round in Atlanta. I went to take the boat out several days ago and noticed that the wheel was very stiff when I tried to turn it. The resistance is uniform from one stop to the other. I lubed the chain inside the pedistal with no results. Verified that the wheel brake was off. No problems noted after inspection of the quadrant and cables. I looked and poked around the rudder but didn't see or feel anything wrapped/trapped.
Any ideas?
Thanks.
Ken Krawford
I've tried numerous times to remove the cap where the emergency tiller attaches with no luck. Is there some trick?
Thanks.
Sorry to mention this but you have just joined the club. my cap had th be sawed off. It was competely welded. This is what happens when aluminum and stainless are in contact. Order a new one from CY. Make sure you goop it up with a good antsieze like Locktite or equil before you reassemble. I would suggest that any of the new boats that can still remove the cap, go ahead and do it before it corrodes together.
Is it advisable to regularly lube this area of the rudder post? I've never seen any mention in Tech Talk, etc.
Thanks, Dave & Ron for the tips.
you can install grease zerks in the rudder stock by drilling and tapping 1/4-28 thread sealing with 5200 and installing a hose clamp with a hole in it around it .I did mine years ago ,give them a shot of silicone grease whenever i'm in there.No wear and friction. Frank Tompa GLORY-BEE #589
Ken,
This has nothing to do with your rudder problem.
Instead, I'm looking at an '87 C34 on Lanier and would love to ask you a few questions.
Since I didn't see your email, I replied here. Hope this finds its way to you.
You can email me at wilsonlb@attbi.com.
Thanks. (Hope you got your problem fixed too)
My aluminium rudder post cap is through bolted through the rudder post. I assume that everyone else's is too. Unfortunately, I just noticed that there is about a 1" hairline crack in the aluminium cap angling up about 45 degrees from the through bolt head. It appears to be a compression crack due to the throughbolt. I intend to call Catalina Monday morning for a replacement cap. The PO replaced the cap when the cutless bearing was replaced in '92. We had planned to go out later today. My question is - is the crack cosmetic or structural? Will the rudder fall off if we go sailing?
Mike
Having a cracked Aluminum casting around your rudder post is not too unusual. I'm sure CY will have a replacment for you. It's not completely cosmetic, it has some funtion but not enough to keep you from going sailing until your replacemrnt has arrived. It also holds the emergency tiller.The very worst case, but highly unlikely, it will slip down until the thru bolt catches. Remember the rudder will float if it is clean and not full of water. When you get the new casting, make sure you lub its ID to prevent corrosion between it and the Stainless post. When you go to remove the cracked casting, you maybe lucky that you will have the crack to wedge and pound off the old part. The replacement may be done while you are in the water. You should however make a sling to support the rudder just in case the water has filled the post.
Good luck...Dave :)
Thanks, Ron, as always.
I discovered the crack when I was doing my "pre-flight walkaround" of Breezer Saturday morning. The throughbolt would stop the rudder from departing the boat so we went out anyway to watch the "Bikini Regatta" out of the Navy Yacht Club down here. There was little wind - we are approaching the summer doldrums - so We just took it easy. I will probably drill a hole at the tip of the crack to spread the stress and stop it and put on a couple of hose clamps until the cap gets here. The PO's notes indicate anti-seize was used the last time it was replaced. If I have trouble, I'll just get out the Dremel. I think I'll wait 'til low tide and lightly ground the boat at the dock while I replace the cap. Otherwise I may have to haul it.
Mike
Ron -
I ordered the replacement cap today ($48). The C clamp prevents the shaft from sliding down, I know, but don't you run the possibility of over tightening it and scaring the post surface? Wouldn't a substantial hose clamp do the same without the danger of scaring?
Also, when Breezer is lightly grounded at the dock at lower low tide, the rudder shaft is forced up slightly to reveal about 1-2" of shaft below the cap. I think I will attach the C clamp or hose clamp there in the cockpit for easier access instead of down below when I replace the cap.
Mike
PS My dock is being dredged next week, so I want to get this project finished soon!